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Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2016
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Posted by Michael Stern on Saturday, February 13, 2016 5:26 AM

Two Step

Aglamesis Bros. is high on many ice cream fans' must-eat list. Roadfooder Chris Brubaker described it as "a beautiful little cafe with a turn-of-the-century Italian marble countertop." And so, after a morning of delicious goetta and a stroll through the Findlay Market with Anne Mitchell, dining editor of Cincinnati's alt-weekly newspaper, CityBeat, we managed to get to Aglamesis Bros. just about noon. Anne said that most connoisseurs come down strongly in favor of either Graeter's or Aglamesis; and it was her opinion that the decision depended on whether you like maximum butterfat (which Graeter's delivers) or supersweetness (an Aglamesis trait).

I did not compare the two side by side, but let me tell you that I never would kick Aglamesis Bros. ice cream off my table! Pumpkin -- an autumn-only flavor -- was as dark as Indian pudding, a just-right balance of spice and cream. Fresh banana delivered real equatorial fruit flavor and was haloed magnificently by a bounteous application of house-made bittersweet chocolate sauce, plus dense whipped cream and a hail of chopped pecans.

There is a second location at 9899 Montgomery Rd., Cincinnati, OH. 513-791-7082
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Roadfood of the Day: Cielito Lindo - Los Angeles, CA
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2016

Cielito Lindo has occupied the same spot on Olvera Street since 1934.
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Roadfood of the Day: Smoque - Chicago, IL
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2016

Meals come in wide metal trays. Clockwise from top left: Peach cobbler, French fries, St. Louis cut ribs, macaroni and cheese and bbq sauce.
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Roadfood of the Day: Rip's - Ladd, IL
Posted on Thursday, February 11, 2016

Crunchies come with every meal, accompanied by a ramekin of pickle chips. They are one of the great fried foods on earth: chicken-fat-flavored, deep-fried batter.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Wednesday, February 10, 2016 4:20 AM

Baked things star at BenGable Savories: quiche and frittatas, loaf cakes and scones, pot pies and tarts, and melt-in-the-mouth crème fraiche biscuits with crusty edge and fluffy insides, served warm with fresh fruit jam and premium butter from local dairies. In fact, much of the provender here is local: fruits and vegetables in season, eggs and cream from nearby farms. Baguettes used for many of the sandwiches are not local, though. They come from Tribeca Oven, which started in New York and is now in New Jersey. They are chewy, crusty, full-flavored and just about as good as a baguette can be.

I especially like this bread when wrapped around salami, roasted fennel, arugula pesto, and orange aioli: a tremendously satisfying sandwich. Slices of good sourdough are the right thing for BenGable’s fine turkey sandwich, in which thick slices of bird are dressed with a layer of pimento cheese and crisp bread-and-butter pickles. A whole other kind of sandwich is this kitchen’s croque monsieur: ham and gruyere cheese on peasant bread, dipped in egg and baked until the outside is brittle and the ingredients have melded together and become as tender as supersavory custard. When you slice through the crust, the very aroma of this sandwich is intoxicating. Add a fried egg on top and it becomes a croque madame.

Given BenGable’s focus on baked goods, it’s not surprising that breakfast is a good time to eat here. Stumptown coffee from Portland (Oregon) is featured on the menu, available regular, espresso, or cold-brewed in bottles. Aside from a sour cherry scone and blueberry corn bread, my favorite thing to eat is a simple length of toasted baguette, available in a few ways. You can have it plainly buttered with good jam on the side; you can have it buttered and salted and drizzled with honey – a devastating sweet-salty powerhouse; and you can have it buttered and lightly salted and spread with a slick emulsion of dark, barely sweet chocolate. The mix of bread and butter and chocolate pinged with salt is at once elegant and overwhelming.
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Roadfood of the Day: Las Fuentes - Reseda, CA
Posted on Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Freshly grilled flank steak tacos in soft corn tortillas topped with diced jalapenos, onions, and salsa negra
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Posted by Michael Stern on Tuesday, February 9, 2016 6:36 AM

After a barrel full of trouble (legal, marital, labor, utility) closed it in April, the Carnegie Deli is reopening today, February 9th at 8am. (The Carnegie's formal mascot, by the way, is Dilly the Pickle.) We have reactivated the review.

Posted by Cliff Strutz on Tuesday, February 9, 2016 3:58 AM

If you want to see what Fort Myers, Florida was like before the strip malls and huge housing developments sprang up, head on over to the Farmers Market Restaurant. It is located just outside the downtown area, next to the State Farmers Market and has been in business since 1952. The house motto is, "Put the Taste of the South in Your Mouth!"

Open three meals a day, seven days a week, I like it best for lunch. They have a wide array of meats to choose from. The meatloaf is a thick slice of comfort food covered in brown gravy, but our favorite is the catfish. It is served boneless, the sweet, flaky meat encased in a delicate, thin crust. One of these days, we are going to get around to trying the ham hocks, the country fried pork chops or the chicken livers and gizzards.

No matter what meat you choose, you get three vegetables and they are well seasoned Southern classics. Among the vegetables we have enjoyed over the years is the limp, flavorful steamed cabbage, wickedly crunchy fried okra, real mashed potatoes, slightly bitter and earthy collard greens and not quite as bitter mustard greens. The best of the vegetables is the field peas. Cooked in pork juice, the peas are firm, irresistibly fresh, with snaps and small bits of pork mixed in.

Farmers Market Restaurant also makes their own pies. The chocolate or the coconut cream pies aren't world-class, but the meringues are tall, the fillings nice and custardy. The signature pie is the strawberry. Unlike most strawberry pies, which are runny or a gelatinous mess, the slices here hold together and are so densely packed with sweet fruit, it is impossible to take a bite without ending up with at least a quarter of a whole berry.
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Roadfood of the Day: Thomas House - Dayton, VA
Posted on Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Oysters and the Best Macaroni
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