The saga of The Colonel's Mini Mart, formerly The Bon Ton Mini Mart and, before that, the Colonel's Lair, couldn't be more melodramatic if it was scripted by the writers of Downton Abbey. Thanks to Louis Hatchett, the Duncan Hines biographer and Kentucky food authority who first clued us in to this source of four-star fried chicken, we have been kept up to date about its ups and downs. The most recent news is good indeed. Whereas a few weeks ago, Mr. Hatchett was seriously worried about the restaurant's survival, he wrote the other day to say, "the Bon Ton / Colonel's Mini Mart has been pulled back from the brink." That means that George Markham, who ran the place in its glory days, is back in charge. As Mr. Hatchett concluded his note, "Thank the Lord!" If you haven't yet sampled this extraordinary fried chicken, do yourself a favor and go there now! It is extraordinary.