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Roadfood of the Day: Julio's - Clarksburg, WV
Posted on Sunday, February 1, 2015

Pasta e Fagiole

We've listed this classic pasta and bean dish as an entree, but if you're packing plenty of appetite, or are willing to share with another diner, it's also a great appetizer. This is the version in broth with fennel. It's also available with cream sauce, with marinara, and with potatoes and kale.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Saturday, January 31, 2015 4:51 AM

Ready to Eat

I am a waffle whore. Nevermind my anti-Belgian prejudice, there are few waffles that don't attract me and no restaurant with waffle in its name that I don't automatically like, from Lo Lo's Chicken and Waffles to Waffle House. So when I was told about The Waffle in Los Angeles, I was on my way.

Apparently, it is a happening place later in the day, when it serves cocktails to a cool crowd. The squareness of its waffle menu has garnered a retro-chic admiration society. But I arrived at the wrong time to see any such stylin'. On Saturday morning at 7:45, 15 minutes after opening, I was the one and only customer; by the time I left at 8:30, four others had come in: a couple and a weekend daddy with his daughter. It could have been an ordinary diner anywhere. Fittingly, coffee is presented with a stirrer already in the mug; and it gets topped off with hash-house regularity.

The Waffle's waffles are big Belgian rectangles, but light and crisp rather than doughy; and they have the eggy flavor that morning meals want. Each comes with a couple of little butter tubs, and although the butter is soft, there is no way easily to spread it on a tile with treads so big. Some holes get more, others less or none. Each trough holds massive amounts of syrup. All sorts of waffles are available, including ones with pecans or bacon baked in, multi-grains, gluten-frees, and even a red velvet waffle. You get two to an order, I tried the sticky bun variation, a plain waffle topped with the sort of goo that adorns Cinnabons: unjustifiable by any meaningful culinary or nutrition standards, but hard not to eat.

There are plenty of non-waffle breakfasts as well as a full menu of sandwiches, soups, and milk shakes, as well as several vegetarian and vegan offerings.
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Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2015

The fried chicken is heavily battered with ultra-brittle skin, while the inside meat is wonderfully moist and juicy.
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Posted by Bill Homan on Friday, January 30, 2015 1:23 PM

A little over six years ago, I wrote a review for Eddie's that was a bit of a mixed bag. I loved some dishes while others just didn't work for me. I am happy to report that I have been back numerous times since then, by myself and with family, and I have loved it more and more with each visit.

The Giant Beef BBQ sandwich has nothing to do with BBQ pits, smoked meat or sauce. As is the case with many "BBQ" sandwiches across Central NY, the focus is on slow roasted meat that is then simmered in its own juices. Just a great sandwich with a LOT of flavor and the scratch-made mashed potatoes & gravy on the side were no slouch.

While I have grown to love their classic Hot Ham on a Toasted Bun, the sleeper hit for me is their Grilled Hot Ham sandwich. Capicola ham piled high on buttered and toasted Italian bread and paired with gooey melted provolone cheese proved to be an unbeatable combination for me.

I finally had a chance to try Eddie's Italian Greens, their version of the classic Central NY appetizer/side dish. Greens are sautéed escarole greens with onions, garlic, hot peppers, romano cheese and in this case, a healthy dose of chopped hot ham. Earthy, rich and with a bit of crunch they do justice to this dish.

My only regret with the Fifi's Special is that I had waited so long to try it, Fifi is the nickname of Florence Stewart, who along with Eddie Stewart, was the co-founder of Eddie's back in 1934. The sauce for this dish includes incredibly tender pieces of pork and beef that are part of Eddie's over 80-year old sauce recipe. Combine that with some hot & sweet peppers and rigatoni and you've got a huge, hearty bowl that is pure comfort and can probably make one or two more meals!

Eddie's has a new, fresh looking neon sign out front, complete with their phone number, website and a very jovial pig on it, sporting a chef's hat and apron. Despite the 21st century upgrade, the always wonderful pies have remained the same as when I first came here in the late 1970s. On recent visits I've had many, many slices of their chocolate cream pie, which is my standby, their peanut butter pie (with a comically large crown of whipped cream topping) and on my most recent visit, I sampled a couple of bites from my brother-in-law's slice of Fresh Strawberry Pie, which they only make on Fridays when strawberries are in season. Just a hint of crust and the most minimal of fillings were holding these juicy, ripe strawberries in place. While asking about which pie slices to order our waitress told us that they are all still made by Helen, an 86-year old woman who has been making the pies for decades. She recently took on an apprentice to help with the fillings but she still comes in every day as she truly loves her work and it can be tasted in every bite.

I'm so glad Eddie's has carried on for over 80 years and is still thriving. They are only open seasonally from mid-April until mid-October, depending on the weather. Should you find yourself in CNY, make a point of checking out the Sylvan Beach area in the summer when the town is really hopping and stop at Eddie's for some terrific homemade food, still made by the Stewart family.
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Posted on Friday, January 30, 2015

A Handsome Pair

A pair of Michigans served the traditional way, with sauce and onions on top. It is possible to ask for your onions 'buried,' meaning underneath the wiener, thus alleviating the problem of the onions tumbling off the top when you hoist the Michigan from its cardboard boat.
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Posted on Thursday, January 29, 2015

Beef on Weck

I've never had a worthy beef on weck outside the Buffalo area ... until finding this one. The roll is crowned with the same amount of caraway seeds and salt as in the Nickel City (where, as here, I always brush some salt off lest I die of thirst an hour later), but more important, the beef is right: rosy, tender, thin slices that radiate luxurious flavor.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Wednesday, January 28, 2015 5:38 AM

A fixture on Route 138 since 1966, Chez Micheline is an exemplary Quebecoise casse-croûte (snack bar). There is no indoor dining. Customers place orders at the window and carry their own meals back to the car or to one of the picnic tables out back. The counter itself is intriguing – littered with coins so servers can quickly push the right amount of change out along with the food.

I was wowed by a house specialty billed as "nouilles Chinoises," a dish reminiscent of the vaguely Asian ya-ka-mein served in New Orleans and in low-end Chinese restaurants in the mid-Atlantic states: boiled then wok-finished elbow macaroni glazed with sweet soy gravy, laced with caramelized onions and shreds of pork under a mantle of chopped scallions. I don't know if it will cure hangovers as ya-ka-mein is supposed to do, but it is a hugely hearty and delicious under-$10 meal. Burgers are a big deal at most casse-croûtes, the top of the line at Chez Micheline being one known as the "Inter Burger," a cheeseburger dressed with sautéed onions, ketchup, mayonnaise, and trio of onion rings hot from the fry kettle.

During a road trip devoted to finding good casse-croûtes throughout Quebec, I was delighted to discover that nearly all of them serve their version of "le hot dog Michigan," the chili dog that first took shape in Plattsburgh, New York, in the 1940s. Most of the Canadian Michigans I encountered were topped with something that was more Bolognese sauce than chili, and they were served in crisp-grilled, split-top buns rather than the softies more typical of New York's North Country. Chez Micheline's Michigan is unique because it also includes a handful of cheese curds (fromage en grains).

The curds Chez Micheline uses are resilient and squeaky-fresh. Bed them atop superior French fries, at once crisp-edged and creamy-centered, and you understand that the much-maligned north-of-the-border dish, poutine, really can be good. Topping variations here beyond traditional gravy include chicken and peas (galvaude) and red tomato sauce (Italienne). Each is available in three sizes: regular, large, and "familiale."
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Roadfood of the Day: Los Baez - Salem, OR
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Mexican Comfort Food

Enchiladas: your choice of beef, pork, cheese or seafood wrapped in corn tortillas, smothered in both red sauce and gravy.
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Roadfood of the Day: Darrell's Place - Hamlin, IA
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Of all the four-star tenderloins in Iowa. Darrell's is among the very best, bound in a crunchy wave of crust and fairly bursting with juice at first bite.
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Posted by Mike Iacoucci on Monday, January 26, 2015 7:49 AM

Tucked away in the industrial city of Elizabeth, NJ, lies a pizza joint that receives high praise and respect amongst the locals and former locals. Santillo's Brick Oven Pizza serves what has been dubbed "The best Sicilian pizza in America" and is typically listed high on lists of best pizzerias in the country. Needless to say, this warrants a road trip to Elizabeth to see what all the fuss is about.

Approaching the pizzeria, one can see the glow of the old fashioned pizza sign hanging out front. Once there, you will find that the entrance is in fact in the alley along side the building. Walk through the alley door and you will find yourself in nothing more than a 3 foot by 6 foot takeout area. If you're claustrophobic, place your order and wait in the alley. Beyond this is the prep area and the main attraction: the 1957 brick oven and a ceiling lined with pizza peels. Most of the peels are 40 to 60 feet long, to reach into the depths of the brick oven.

Besides the oven, there are several other facets to Santillo's that make it a popular destination. First of all, they make their own Italian bread fresh daily, whereas most pizzerias will carry bread from a local bakery. This is the reason their garlic bread is a must-have side dish. Besides their famous Sicilian pies, they recreate classic pizza styles from decades past and there are many to choose from. Luckily, during my visit we were fortunate to have a regular customer waiting for their order, so we were able to get some suggestions. First thing we were told, "Get the garlic bread!" After a short conversation, the decision was made to get one of the famous Sicilians with sausage, and a 1957-style round pie (extra thin crust).

Now that we have our order, the other decision needs to be made. Unless you live right in the area, you need to walk out of this joint with a plan of where to eat the food. My visit was in 15 degree weather and eating in the car was not really an option. From what I was told, you can ask the owner, Al, for suggestions. One suggestion I've heard is he will advise you to go around the block to the local bar and they will deliver it there. Having driven over 40 minutes to get here, driving home was not an option, as I was starving. Between my friend and myself, the perfect plan unfolded. A sign on the wall says that Santillo's sells the pizza bags that keep the pies hot for $20/bag. My friend had suggested that since we were headed back to New York, to dine at the rest stop on the turnpike, 20 minutes away. When we arrived, the pizza was still piping hot. Fantastic $20 investment that will keep on giving. FINALLY, we can try the pizza we've heard so much about (and had to smell from the trunk for 20 minutes!).

First up, we had to try the sausage Sicilian. Upon opening the box, you can see the characteristics of a brick oven-fired pizza. The outer edges of the crust had blackened soot lined across and some blackened spots of cheese across the top. The bottom of the crust had some nice golden to dark brown markings. As with most fresh Sicilian pizzas, it tended to get a tad soggy in the middle sections and were best eaten after being heated a second time. However the outer slices were nice and crisp, with a delicious taste to the crust. The sausage, which is put on the pizza raw, gave the pizza a nice, sweet flavor. The sauce and cheese work well with the crust to make for a well-balanced pie.

The 1957 round pie was up next and in my opinion, outdid the Sicilian pie. The sauce and cheese are the same, so it's not a dramatic palate change. But, what made the 1957 better was its crust. The extra thin crust was nice and crispy throughout, with the same chars on the outer edges. On the bottom, what is now a lost art, the semolina lined crust. If you like thin and crispy pies, this is the one to try.

Having said that, in my opinion, these pies suffer from one flaw - excessive amounts of oregano. After several bites, the oregano started to dominate the flavor profile and took away from the clean flavors of the other ingredients. I like oregano, but I don't LOVE oregano. For only this reason did this place not rank higher to me. The first question I always myself after eating somewhere: "okay, would I want to eat it again?" The answer for this place is - if I was not far away, I would stop in and grab something, but wouldn't drive 40 minutes again for it. However, if you're the type that loves oregano on pizza, this place is not to be missed. Overall, excellent pizza and worth a try.
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