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Posted on Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Huevos Rancheros

We've never seen huevos rancheros prepared this way anywhere else. They are topped with a buttery gravy laced with onions and peppers. Those are refried beans at the left and fried potatoes at the right. Tortillas are essenteial for mopping the last of the refritos and gravy from the plate.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Monday, December 8, 2014 5:25 AM

Union Avenue in West Haven, Connecticut, has a new name, at least the one block that matters to Roadfooders. It is Zuppardi's Way, named of course, for Zuppardi's Appizza ( reviews), which celebrated its 80th birthday on December 7, 2014 with an afternoon of endless pizzas, Italian party music on the sound system, and pizza-lover camaraderie.

Roadfood of the Day: Teibel's - Schererville, IN
Posted on Monday, December 8, 2014

Lake Perch

Lake perch and roll; Teibel's earns a visit every time we return home.
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Roadfood of the Day: Coney I-Lander - Tulsa, OK
Posted on Sunday, December 7, 2014

Weenie Wiener

Here is a standard Coney I-Lander Coney dog topped with mustard, chili and raw onions. Ask for it 'loaded' and a handful of grated cheese is strewn on top. The one other option is a sprinkle of cayenne pepper.
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Posted on Saturday, December 6, 2014

I was fortunate enough to snag the first piece of cherry strudel after it came out of the oven.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Friday, December 5, 2014 5:21 AM

The guedille, a canteen staple throughout Quebec, is a grill-toasted hot dog bun, usually filled with chicken, eggs, or seafood, or made entirely without meat. It will almost surely contain mayo, mustard, and a heap of brilliant, tangy cole slaw, and some are garnished with a few French fries. The meatless version is a light alternative to the heavier fare more typical of the region's snack bars, such as poutine, cheeseburgers, and "les hot dogs Michigan," topped with bolognese sauce.

There is no geudille chou more beautiful (or more delicious) than that served at the humble shack called Cantine Bernard, on Highway 20 east of Montreal. The bun is lightly toasted – not the least bit oily; slaw and chopped onions are perfectly crisp; and the sandwich is crowned with a spill of flavorful tomato chunks that are salted and vigorously peppered.

On the other hand, Cantine Bernard's poutine is heavy-duty fare, dense and rich, made with fresh, big-flavored hunks of cheese, first-rate French fries, and formidable gravy.

When I visited, the staff at Cantine Bernard was particularly hospitable. I happened to show up on an overcast day and while I was enjoying lunch, a drenching rainstorm ensued. The picnic tables, located under an all-weather enclosure adjacent to the kitchen and order window, were well-protected. But when it came time to head back into the parking area, a member of the staff kindly brought me a morning newspaper, which she suggested I use as head cover when I dashed back to the car.
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Posted on Friday, December 5, 2014

Perch Sandwich

The sandwich is unwieldy. The delicate fillets are fresh.
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Posted by Lee Hutchison on Thursday, December 4, 2014 6:53 AM

Bendi's has three signs: two identify it as a diner, one as a BBQ hut, so I'm going with Diner. Plain and clean on the inside with John Wayne on the TV and a local construction crew at the next table. I ordered the BBQ sandwich (pork, of course, in this part of the world, with slaw) and onion rings. It was classic Arkansas BBQ, hot and smoky, not very sweet, completely unlike Memphis BBQ an hour or so to the east. Funny how you cross the Mississippi and things change so quickly. The onion rings were the real deal. My wife had the homegrown tomato stuffed with chicken salad which she said was great; no skimping on the chicken and obviously, a tomato someone had grown in a garden nearby.

Fried pies were offered, so we each had one; peach and apricot, and they were delicious, the crust light and not soggy. Then the waitress came clean and said they get them from someplace in Texarkana, so now I have a reason to go to Texarkana.

After we ordered all this, I noticed the menu board advertising buffalo ribs. These are not ribs from that woolly four-footed mammal, but from the buffalo fish. Buffalo ribs are a delicacy you sometimes see on menus in diners along the rivers and bayous of east Arkansas, and the fact that you can get a whole plate of fish ribs tells you a lot about how big and ugly a buffalo fish is. They come fried but the waitress says she'll throw them on the grill outside if you would like. I'll get the ribs on our next visit.
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Roadfood of the Day: New Way Lunch - Glens Falls, NY
Posted on Thursday, December 4, 2014

Dog Dressing

It's a trip standing up front and watching the dog man dress weenies lined up on the counter. He's fast and efficient, applying mustard with a trowel, chili and onions with a spoon. The chili is kept warm in that bean pot visible on the grill in the background.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Wednesday, December 3, 2014 7:21 AM

The business card of Patate Ben-Venue, which could liberally be translated as "Potato Welcome," is headlined "Frites Maison." And pommes frites, aka French fries, sure are the specialty of the house. Ben Venue has been getting its potatoes from the same family potato farm for over a quarter of a century.

When I stepped up to the counter to complement chef on the French fries, she proudly explained what she called the "three stages of the pomme frite: not cooked, half cooked, ready to eat." It is double frying that gives the pommes frites at so many of Quebec's premier snack bars their chewy skin and creamy center. With nothing but a sprinkle of salt, they are fried potatoes at their full glory.

The same spuds are the foundation for Ben-Venue's poutine, but their crisp personality suffers from the blanket of chicken gravy that sops them. While the curds in this poutine are not necessarily squeaky-fresh, heat from the potatoes and gravy does turn them semi-molten, adding a wonderful dairy tang that complements the flavor of potatoes so well.

The Ben-Venue cook boasted that her cheeseburger (billed on the menu as "notre fameux cheeseburger) is made with pure Velveeta, a thick slab of which is melted into a sliced bun that is griddle cooked on both sides until wickedly crisp. Only then is the grilled meat inserted, along with works that include mustard, onion, pickle, and slaw (but no ketchup). Likewise, when you order a Ben Venue hot dog roti, it comes on a gorgeous grilled bun, the buttery luxe of which sings mischievous harmony with the blubbery little wiener inside.
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