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Roadfood of the Day: Kozy Korner - Winnett, MT
Posted on Saturday, October 4, 2014


A trio of plate-size buttermilk pancakes, just waiting for syrup
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Posted by Michael Stern on Friday, October 3, 2014 10:22 AM

Apalachicola has all manner of good seafood restaurants, plain and fancy; but for local color (along with four-star food), you can't beat the Apalachicola Seafood Grill. A corner-store town lunch room surrounded by a raised sidewalk, it has a short counter where locals come to chat & chew as well as a scattering of oilcloth-covered tables. Souvenirs for sale include plush toys and amusing signs, such as "No Whining Zone"

Oysters are available raw, steamed, or grilled by the dozen, as well as fried on a sandwich or in a basket. Shrimp can be ordered fried or coconut fried, but the preparation that wows me is grilled. Modest-sized, but huge flavored, they come spangled with oregano and parsley with a tingle of pepper spice and a wisp of smoke in their seasoning. While they are remarkably tender, they aren't the least bit flabby. What a joy each mouthful is!

Another out-of-this-world dish here is Apalachicola gumbo – spicy, robust, earthy, loaded with beautiful oysters and shrimp and forkfuls of flatfish. It is aggressively seasoned but with none of the complicated folderol of Creole gumbo. Instead, it glows with cordial Dixie charm that is more Mobile Bay than New Orleans. The Grill's fried oysters are remarkably sweet, nutty, gentle. If we wanted to convert someone who thinks he doesn't like oysters, these would be our argument. On the side comes hunky, homey potato salad with lots of bacon flavor.
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Posted on Friday, October 3, 2014

Montana Supper Club

The supper club is a style of restaurant unique to the Midwest and Plains. Eddie's defines the genre: source of big drinks and beautiful steaks in plush-upholstered booths. Being in Montana, it also is a coffee shop and liquor store.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Thursday, October 2, 2014 4:18 AM

Place your order for a dog, a cheese dog, or a chili dog, and as soon as the natural-casing frank is pulled up out of the hot oil and rolled around on the grill to get a crisp crust, it is bunned and placed in a cradle for the final dressing with your choice of mustard, relish, onions, bacon bits, or sauerkraut. It is then wrapped and/or put on a paper plate. Customers carry their own to a table in the spacious dining room.

The hot dogs are first rate; Mr. Mac's chili topping puts them over the top. The folks behind the counter usually warn first-timers who order chili dogs that Mr. Mac's chili is very, very hot; and indeed it is. Unlike typical chili-dog toppings or Coney sauce, this stuff is as dark as a good mole, and every bit as thick and complicated. At first, it tastes sweet, seductively so. In moments, the sweetness yields to blossoming heat and pretty soon your tongue is on fire, in the best possible way.

The signature chili dogs lead a broad fast-food menu that includes hamburgers and double hamburgers, fried clams and fish & chips, deli sandwiches, and morning egg sandwiches. One outstanding feature of all these items is the bun in which they are sandwiched: fresh, fluffy, quality bread.
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Posted on Thursday, October 2, 2014

Beautiful Burrito

What a well-made burrito, loaded with succulent beef, firm beans, bits of celery and onion and grains of rice. The chili sauce on top is smooth and delicious essence of chili pepper with seemingly nothing else added.
Rate this place Reviews (1) Learn more about Candel's By-Way Cafe...
Posted by Michael Stern on Wednesday, October 1, 2014 9:16 AM


An inconspicuous storefront in a commercial strip by the side of the two-lane, 521 B-B-Q & Grill is a conspicuously worthy barbecue destination. Not that there's anything wrong with the menu's extra-thick fried bologna sandwich, but it would be a crime to come here and not eat chopped pork and/or ribs. The former – Boston butt that is slow-smoked for 14 hours – becomes rough-hewn hash that is served sauceless. Please, savor some unadorned forkfuls for full appreciation of the refined synergy of swine and smoke. But then, bring on the sauce. Two kinds are arrayed in squeeze bottles on every table (next to the roll of paper towels): a thin, pepper-powered vinegar dressing that adds an exclamation mark to the flavor, and a thicker, sweeter and extremely tangy tomato sauce. Both are winners.

The ribs are just about the meatiest baby backs we've ever run across. Huge amounts of juice-sopped meat slide off the bone at the slightest provocation. Like the pork butts, the ribs are slow-smoked so the woodsy flavor of the pit completely insinuates itself into every fiber of the meat. Then they are painted with some of that tangy sauce and grilled until the sauce begins to caramelize. The glaze hugs the pork; and those two tastes together define the joy of ribs.

We haven't yet mentioned what some people consider to be the very best thing on the menu, included on every plate or tray of barbecue: hushpuppies. Irregularly shaped with dark, red-gold skin that offers both crunch and chew, their interiors are moist and sweet-corn sweet, laced with perfumy onion. Nor are the baked beans to be ignored. They fairly vibrate with barbecue zest.

And finally, we need to mention the staff: a corps of waitresses who are as much fun as they are efficient, eagerly replacing a couple of hushpuppies that accidentally tumbled into the baked beans and lost a touch of their crispness and taking great joy when a customer is caught licking every bit of sauce off his fingers. In short: if you like barbecue, put 521 on any short list of must-visits in the Carolinas.
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Posted on Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Yocco's Dog

Yocco's hot dogs are well-browned and topped with a dark brew.
Rate this place Reviews (4) Learn more about Yocco's Hot Dog King...
Posted by Cliff Strutz on Tuesday, September 30, 2014 4:41 AM

Don't worry if you get lost looking for Archibald's Bar-B-Q in Northport, AL. If you are anywhere nearby, just roll down your window and follow the powerful aroma of smoke and barbecuing meat. In no time at all, you will be pulling into their driveway. This is one restaurant you will smell long before you actually see it.

The building itself is, shall we say, charmingly rustic. The painted white exterior is covered in black smoke stains. But, considering this is a barbecue parlor, the looks of the place hardly matter. What does matter is the pile of hickory wood out back, the constant pouring of smoke out the chimney and that intoxicating smell. The inside is tiny and immaculately clean, with four stools at the counter. Most customers get their 'que to take home or eat at one of the outside picnic tables. I recommend eating inside, where you get a view into the impressive pit, with rows of racks of ribs cooking over flames.

The menu consists of nothing more than ribs (you can order a whole slab, a large plate or a small plate) and the pork barbecue sandwich. The ribs are long, meaty with serious smoky flavor and just the right amount of chew. The pork on the sandwiches comes in thick, tender slices. Both are greatly augmented by the addictive barbecue sauce. It is more vinegar than tomato, with enough kick to leave your lips tingling. There are no sides, just bags of chips.

Archibald's started in 1962 and is now in the hands of second generation owner George Archibald, Jr. The service here is quick and friendly. One note of warning: if you are making a special trip, call ahead to make sure that they have what you want. On my most recent visit, they were out of ribs and wouldn't have more for another hour. After all, you don't rush great barbecue!
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Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2014

The ribs are cooked perfectly but lack good smoke flavor.
Rate this place Reviews (3) Learn more about Greenbrier Restaurant...
Posted on Monday, September 29, 2014

French Bistro Or Southern Cafe?

This orange cardomom tart reminded us of chess pie, although it's dressed finer than any chess pie we've ever seen (creme fraiche, fresh strawberry, chocolate drizzle, and candied orange peel).
Rate this place Reviews (2) Learn more about Le Chien Noir Bistro...
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