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Roadfood of the Day: McBob's - Milwaukee, WI
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2014

Wisconsin is known for great cheese; Milwaukee is the home of excellent rye bread; McBob's makes some of the earth's most delicious corned beef. Is it any wonder the Reuben sandwich is extraordinary?
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Roadfood of the Day: Polonez - St. Francis, WI
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014


A quartet of Pierogi makes a fine start to a Polonez meal. Their slightly-chewy skin is fork-tender, and the filling is moist and aromatic. Here are two each of sauerkraut-filled and potato-cheese.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Wednesday, June 25, 2014 5:19 AM

Devotees of kick-ass barbecue might be forgiven if the sight of Jimmy's coarse-chopped pork does not elicit their rapture. It looks plain: gray, disheveled, without glow or glisten. This is Platonic Piedmont 'cue, a duet of smoke and swine with only enough sauce (or, as it's called here, dip) to add a jot of moisture, a twist of vinegar tang, and a halo of red pepper to the big, unspeakably tender chunks of meat. Its virtue is its subtlety, not its bombast; and while it won't win beauty contests or stir orgasmic yelps, it delivers austere elegance unique to the barbecue of eastern North Carolina. For a few years now, it has been cooked with gas rather than wood smoke – a misdemeanor to purists – and while I do miss the come-hither perfume of wood smoke that surrounds traditional pits, I am not going to kick this good stuff off my table!

Coarse-chopped means hunks as big as two or three bites; regular chopped is the more familiar, hash-like tangle – a bit more exciting, texture-wise, but still in no way show-offy. In a sandwich with white slaw, it's perfect. A righteous slaw option, and a Piedmont favorite, is barbecue slaw, which is the crisp white slaw infused with enough dip to turn it auburn in color and noticeably spicy. Of the many available side dishes, green beans are a stand-out, cooked long enough to lose all their snap, infused with the flavor of ham (big chunks of which are included in each serving) and dotted with sweet corn kernels.

Perhaps even more alluring than the pork is Jimmy's barbecued chicken, available Thursday through Sunday. Like the pork, it is tender beyond words, and its luxuriously crisp mahogany skin delivers taste pleasure that will haunt you long after the meal is done. Out of curiosity, perhaps some day I will try what Jimmy's bills as a "bread burger." The waitress explained that it is made by grinding up bread with the meat – a beef-stretching recipe that goes back to the lean times of FDR's presidency.

Do note that unlike many of Lexington's famous smoke pits, Jimmy's is open for breakfast and on Sunday, too. I arrived mid-day Sunday, and, in blue jeans and casual shirt, was dramatically underdressed compared to most customers, who come here en famille after church.
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Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Music Man Customer enjoying a Doughboy

The Doughboy - Over there, over here, send the word; send the word, over there! This sundae is astounding. A "Fab" sundae that will bring out the kid in anyone. Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Ice Cream with hot fudge and marshmallow toppings, banana wheels, whipped cream and a cherry.
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Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2014
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Roadfood of the Day: Lankford Grocery - Houston, TX
Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Triple Bacon Cheeseburger

Size matters when it comes to this triple bacon cheeseburger, but what's really important is that the meat patties upon which it's built are wonderful: hand-formed patties sizzled to crusty succulence. And it doesn't hurt that the bun is impeccably fresh and the condiments are applied with abandon.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Monday, June 23, 2014 4:14 AM

Hail the cheeseburger

“My girlfriend and I are great fans of your books and of,” wrote Fred Arazan. “We find the service you provide invaluable, especially when traveling to new places. However, having both lived in Connecticut, we are in agreement that there is one gleaming omission from your reviews. It is Harry's in Colchester. In summertime, Harry's is to local burger fans what Abbott's is to lobster lovers. There is no fresher, juicier, tastier burger in the state, if not in all New England.” Mr. Arazan simply could not understand why we have not sung hosannas to this place, asking, “Do you have a vendetta against Harry's?”

The answer is, no, we have nothing against Harry’s. The embarrassing fact is that we had never been there before. But after reading his endorsement, we were on our way. And sure enough, we found ourselves at a drive-in where the hamburgers are superb and the cheeseburgers are proof, once more, that Connecticut is where the cheeseburgers are fast-food perfection.

Standing at the pick up window (which is where you go after you have placed your order and paid at the other window), you have a great view of the grill on which the hamburgers are cooked. They are put on the hot, oily surface as a round patty a little smaller than a baseball, then they are flattened out with a spatula. Despite getting squished, the hamburgers remain thick enough to be overwhelmingly juicy.

Hot dogs are cooked on the same grill, and they’re plump and tasty ones, especially satisfying when bedded atop some of Harry’s chili sauce. And you can get good fried clams, too. But it’s burgers on which Harry’s reputation is built, and rightfully so.

Seating is strictly outdoors on picnic tables along both sides of the capacious parking lot. Mr. Arazan’s note contained one extra tip for those who are waiting for their hamburgers to be cooked. “Look for the plaque outside,” he said. “Harry’s is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.”
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Posted on Monday, June 23, 2014

Dinner for Two

In the background: a hot lobster roll. In the foreground: a fried scallop dinner with excellent onion rings and French fries.
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Roadfood of the Day: Brown Bag - Rockland, ME
Posted on Sunday, June 22, 2014

A great breakfast!

As you can see the homefries were well seasoned and the bread homemade and delicious!
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Posted by Michael Stern on Saturday, June 21, 2014 6:08 AM

There is no better culinary reflection of the eclectic nature of Bisbee, Arizona, than the High Desert Market and Cafe. Owned and operated by Peyton Tamburo, an actress from New York who arrived on motorcycle at the turn of the millennium, it is a place to eat-in or buy meals to take out, a coffee-juice-smoothie bar, a grocery store, a wine shop, a crafts gallery, a cosmetics emporium, and a town gathering place.

We're especially fond of dessert: mammoth cuts of cake or pie that is fresh and expertly made. Coconut cream pie is a big, hearty western slice that is endlessly creamy atop a crust that is surprisingly fragile and with an ever-so-slight savory flavor. A thick layer of whipped cream floats atop the chocolate sour cream cake. It is quite sweet, but the cake itself, moistened by plenty of sour cream, is less sweet than most chocolate cakes: a fabulous, intriguing balance.

For dinner, you can tuck into elegant artisan pizza, such specials as manicotti stuffed with spinach and ricotta along with wonderful garlic bread, or pad Thai with shrimp, bean sprouts, and peanuts tossed with rice noodles. Sandwiches, served on organic whole wheat or grilled focaccia bread (or on gluten-free bread), are made of interesting cheeses and cold cuts, accoutered with the likes of sliced avocado, pesto, caramelized onion, etc.

Breakfast is wonderful: immense egg-loaded burros, sweet potato pancakes, and pastries that are made on premises every day. Of the muffins, biscuits, and cookies, our fave are the scones. Like the pie and cake, they come as mighty blocks of food – one scone easily feeds two – and they are jam-packed with whatever ingredient is featured, from chocolate chips to cranberries.

The juice bar will concoct just about anything you wish. Apple-lemon-ginger-beet is a house favorite. Among smoothies, the knock-out is a double espresso chocolate with banana and ice cream.
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