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Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2014
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Roadfood of the Day: Pearl Oyster Bar - New York, NY
Posted on Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Lobster Roll Extraordinaire

The bun is glistening with butter and the lobster is perfectly cooked. You'd consider yourself lucky to find a lobster salad roll like this along the Maine coast.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Tuesday, October 21, 2014 5:39 AM

In the heart of Wakulla Springs State Park, a 6000-acre wildlife sanctuary populated by manatees, alligators, and waterfowl, the Wakulla Springs Lodge is an amazing place to stay and to eat. "Welcome to the REAL Florida" reads a sign as you enter the park and wind through a canopy of hardwood forest towards the two-story Moorish-Deco edifice built in the 1930s and little changed since then. There are no TVs in guest rooms (but there is WiFi internet); the lobby ceiling is a glorious painted tableau that melds Teutonic folk art with Arabic and Native-American symbols and crests of Europe's noble families; and the lobby walls are adorned with backlit transparency photos that show life at the lodge in the mid 20th century: bathing beauties frolicking, glass-bottom boats gliding over the spring basin. A placard at the front desk advises that the air conditioning system is unique, cooling the inn using pumped-in fresh spring water. Does that explain the sweet, moss-green scent that gives this place such a dreamy feel? Next to the original walnut-walled elevator (close the iron gate yourself, please) is a poster from the 1954 movie Creature from the Black Lagoon, which was filmed hereabouts to take advantage of the primeval ambience.

The Lodge menu includes local oysters, deviled crab, shrimp, and ham-laced navy bean soup that has earned legendary status over the years, but our favorite meal is breakfast. Bright and early, birds outside the great arched windows of the dining room are busy on their morning errands, providing a colorful backdrop to a table crowded with sizzled ham steak, cheese grits, biscuits and sausage gravy, and, best of all, fried chicken. The chicken is cooked when ordered (there's a 25 minute wait), arriving at the table still too hot to handle. Its crunchy-chewy crust outdoes bacon as a luxury breakfast meat. This is fried chicken at its finest, and a reminder that northernmost Florida is America's deepest South.
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Posted on Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Don't Play With Your Food

Jane could not resist dancing this "baron of frog" around the table before anybody had a chance to bite into it.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Monday, October 20, 2014 5:47 AM

As America's coffee rode the rising tide of culinary aspiration over the last several decades, its iconic purveyor has gone from lowly diner or truck stop to enlightened coffee bar. Nowhere is that phenomenon more prevalent than in the northwest quadrant of the country, including the small, scenic Idaho panhandle town of Sandpoint. There are several sources of good coffee in this Bonner County hamlet on the shore of Lake Pend Oreille, none more conscientious than Evans Brothers Roasters. What you get in this place is not just expertly roasted and masterfully poured coffee. You find an enterprise that touts a philosophy and a sense of social responsibility (both expressed on the Evans Brothers website); you find meticulous latte art and loose-leaf teas as well as locally baked, organic, and gluten-free pastries. Located in a colorful old mill complex in the Granary Arts District, and featuring the work of local artists on its walls, Evans Brothers also happens to serve a cup of joe as delicious as we've had anywhere.

You can choose between French-press or hand-drip (known here as "pourover") coffee, a single-origin espresso of the day, or the Evans' proprietary Headwall espresso blend – a soft, syrupy medium-roast named for a ski run at nearby Schweitzer Mountain. We are especially fond of Evans Brothers' Siberia Dark Blend (also named for a ski run), which is dark and chocolaty and nearly as satisfying as food. Speaking of which, if you must eat, the handful of available pastries are pretty good, but the breakfast burritos, heated in the microwave, suffer from sogginess. It's four-star coffee that will keep us coming back.
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Posted on Monday, October 20, 2014

Giant Meatball Hero

Juicy meatballs, fresh mozzarella and sauce: the meatball hero is one of the best items on the Hero Boy menu.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Sunday, October 19, 2014 5:49 AM

The grand climax of the 2014 eating tour: Keaton's BBQ, in the middle of nowhere. Great food + wonderful company: I know why I am smiling! (If you were on the tour and would like a high-resolution file of this image, PM me via and I will email it to you.)

Roadfood of the Day: Moishes - Montreal, QB, XX
Posted on Sunday, October 19, 2014

Big Filet Mignon

Moishe's bone-in filet mignon comes resting on its bone. It is a huge, ridiculously juicy hunk of delicious meat.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Saturday, October 18, 2014 3:44 AM

For me, the Friday surprise hit on the Roadfood Tour was R.O.'s sliced pork BBQ sandwich. In this part of the world, I generally go for chopped, but this sliced pork -- so moist, sweet, and just faintly smoky -- pairs magnificently with R.O.'s indescribably good sauce/slaw/dip on a grill-toasted bun.

Roadfood of the Day: Mr. D's - Henderson, KY
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2014

The Other Colonel's Fried Chicken

Henderson-style fried chicken is all about extremely savory crust, as seen on this succulent drumstick. Colonel Jim's recipe, used at Mr. D's, is especially fire-hot.
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