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Posted by Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle on Friday, February 22, 2013 12:43 AM

We don't ordinarily order beef ribs in barbecue restaurants, not because we don't enjoy them but because we enjoy pork ribs, brisket, and sausage much more. That said, we were bug-eyed when, as we were enjoying our dinners, this tray of gorgeous beef ribs was placed on the counter next to our table at Hill Country in New York, NY (see billyboy's review).

The barbecue is generally very good at Hill Country, but we think the key to full enjoyment here, if you are not a local, is to keep reminding yourself that you are renting NYC real estate, not buying groceries. If you are used to Texas Hill Country prices, the tariff at New York Hill Country can be sobering indeed. Those chipotle-spiked deviled eggs will set you back four dollars. That's for each egg, mind you; the four halves in the photo cost eight dollars! We love deviled eggs, and these are good ones. That cup on the side holds toothsome and rib-sticking corn pudding.

We arrived before 5 p.m., which allowed two out of three of us to order the barbecue beef sandwich lunch special, which comes with a side. The collards with applewood smoked bacon are perfect, and the Sweet Potato Bourbon Mash

is Thanksgiving-ready. The smoky sandwiches were deemed excellent by those two. The third one of us, who tends to turn his nose up at such barbecue folderol, went a la carte, with a half-pound of moist brisket (they also offer lean) and three pork spare ribs.

The brisket was luxuriously moist and fall-apart tender, with enough fat for flavor and lubrication without crossing the line into too-fatty territory. We only wish there were more outside edges. The ribs are meaty behemoths, again achieving the perfect fat/flesh ratio.

Quite honestly, we felt that the Q-quality, at least during this particular visit, would play as well on the big stage of the Lone Star State as it did in the boondocks of 26th Street in Manhattan.

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