1993 Chevrolet P30 Food Truck Build

i'm trying to figure out what i need for my truck. but yes definitly love this thread it helps me with ideas and how to's. great job

Reese, I looked at the duramax generator you posted earlier,it had good reviews for a chinese made,Ive hearf that generacs are made in China as well, but who knows. The duramax has free shipping and the 50 amp plug,one of the only ones with the 50 amp. My brother in law is an electrician and  i beleive he said it equals out to around 44 to 46 amp, plenty to run 1 plug to your breaker and run everything, there are plenty of generac 7500 with electric start,for around 1000 dollars even walmart has them, they dont have the reduced idle, or the 50 amp plug.I just looked at 3 new trucks from food cart usa, they run generac 7500 propane , cant even here them run,its plenty of power for their big trucks, but they cost around 2500 to 3000. Myself Im aiming for the duramax,there are various places selling them at the same cost, so far it looks like the best deal, remember used equipment "you live by the junkyard, You die by the junyard".
 

americanwiener
Reese, I looked at the duramax generator you posted earlier,it had good reviews for a chinese made,Ive hearf that generacs are made in China as wellkyard, You die by the junyard".

 
That's BS http://www.generac.com/Portables/Portable_FAQs/
The engines used on the Generac XP and XG Series of portables are manufactured at our Generac Power Systems, Inc. factory in Whitewater, WI. Generac engines are industrial grade engines designed to provide the ultra-quiet, longer-lasting performance required of portable generators. Generac OHVI® industrial engines run three to five times longer than SV/OHV lawnmower style engines. They also run 30-50 degrees cooler, are 5% more fuel-efficient and reduce oil consumption by 25%.

Generac is manufactured in WI not in China.
 
I have used their portable here at home and on occaision on a catering job for the basic electric needs.
 
I am on the board of directors of a camp and we have a commercial grade gene for our back up.  It has never let us down.
 
When working for my local 911 center the back up gene is also a generac and 15 seconds after the power is out, we are back up and rebooting everything.

Yeah Generac is about the best Generator out there bar none!

Go to grainger industrial supply, they list many generac generators, country of origin on some of the portables is China, some of the larger units is in fact the USA, Grainger has no reason to be deceptive, I used to belive in Santa Claus, until I found out the truth.

Why would a business use a non commercial (for temporary home use) generator? Your livelihood depends on having power.  Or are you planning to just buy a cheap one and replace it every 6 months or sooner? That's not a good move my friend.

All you guys that are shopping generators, and have never heard it run. do you know how many db's the model puts out your looking at?
Have you ever worked your cart/trailer for a day listening to a generator? These industrial types are going to be so loud that you will have to place them 100' away.
I have a Honda, sits at the tongue of the trailer, 5' from the service window, you don't have to talk over it, you know it's there, but it's quiet....58db's
It's bullet proof, keep the oil changed. The one I have now I got in '03..
Used nothing but Honda's when I worked for a movie caterer, why? Because they are quiet and reliable. Ran them for 16-18 hrs a day.      
Yes you will pay more for a Honda, but well worth the investment.
Just my .02 worth.

some of us don't have $5000 for a honda generator. Mine is 72db and it's not that loud. I know someone that has one on a food truck, it's kinda loud but it's also closer to her window on the rear bumper, mine is going to be on the front bumper and I'm building a box for it as well. my service window is towards the rear of the truck and if it's in the front bumper, it will be less of a headache for all of us.
 
thoughts on a gen box ?

Wild Dog weren't you going to post some pictures of the interior vs exterior walls?
 
Jack

New custom 12v switches.
 

americanwiener


Go to grainger industrial supply, they list many generac generators, country of origin on some of the portables is China, some of the larger units is in fact the USA, Grainger has no reason to be deceptive, I used to belive in Santa Claus, until I found out the truth.

 
This is the FAQ page from Generac
 
http://www.generac.com/Portables/Portable_FAQs/
 
#1 question WHERE IS THE ENGINE MADE??  WISCONSIN!

reese77


New custom 12v switches.

SEXY!!!

can anyone lend help for this one : Im a little confused on my rear door situation of my food truck i want to leave it as it is and never open it but the probality of me needed to move equipment out is likley so if i were to add a door would i just fremove the whole rear door setup frame out and install door or cut through the rollup door and add a doorvI'm  not really sure............ and second i have been searching all over he internet for a step van rear door and all i can find is parts not actual door.
 
thanks,
chris
 
 
 

Hey Chris,
 
I think it all depends on how you set up your kitchen. If you put the hot side opposite of the serving window you can just close and lock the back door and put your triple sink on that back wall. Because that gives you a quick removal item on the back of the deck so if you have to "remodel" you can. If you put up aluminum sheeting on the back just mount it in strips aligned with the roller doors, so then they will roll up and down with no issues. I am thinking about putting up on solid sheet of aluminum on the back and putting my hot line on the back wall. That way if I need to remodel, I could still do so, grated it would be a bit more difficult.
 
John

rollingwitburgers


can anyone lend help for this one : Im a little confused on my rear door situation of my food truck i want to leave it as it is and never open it but the probality of me needed to move equipment out is likley so if i were to add a door would i just fremove the whole rear door setup frame out and install door or cut through the rollup door and add a doorvI'm  not really sure............ and second i have been searching all over he internet for a step van rear door and all i can find is parts not actual door.

thanks,
chris

 
There are many options but it is like nwcw said, how are you planning to layout your kitchen?

reese I want to put the hot side oppisite of the concession window and plumbing and sink to the left of concession window im worried ibout if i have to remove large items second I m concerned about the roll up door being in the way of the vent hood . what do you think?

rollingwitburgers


reese I want to put the hot side oppisite of the concession window and plumbing and sink to the left of concession window im worried ibout if i have to remove large items second I m concerned about the roll up door being in the way of the vent hood . what do you think?

I would either:
 
1. Remove the roll up doors and fabricate a double door where you have 2 sides that swing open.
 
2. You can leave the top portion of the roll up door and cover with aluminum, FRP, etc. and cut out the bottom half of the door maybe 3 feet high and fabricate a door for the opening, where the door opens up like your opening an access panel. This is how the big boy food trucks are. They have an emergency exit under the grill on the back wall. The opening would be high and wide enough to slide in/out equipment and you would not have to worry about the roll up hitting the exhaust.

How wide is the man door? How long is the cargo area?
The roll up is going to take up 5-6 feet of ceiling space when open.
Everyone seems concerned about moving and removing equipment and needing the rear doors to do this.
I worked with many trucks that had appliances changed out, the only access was through the passenger side door.
These were on Grumman p-30 wide body trucks, don't know if there is any difference in the door sizes.
My trailer has a 36" door, everything was brought in through there..... 2, two door fridges, 36" stove, 8' hood.

nwcw2001
Hey Chris, I think it all depends on how you set up your kitchen. If you put the hot side opposite of the serving window you can just close and lock the back door and put your triple sink on that back wall. Because that gives you a quick removal item on the back of the deck so if you have to "remodel" you can.
John

 
If you have to move a sink aren't you going to have to remove your fresh water and waste water tanks which would also require plumbing connections be cut and then rebuilt?
 
Has anyone thought about air flow from what ever source (service window or open door) to the exhaust hood?
If the exhaust hood were on the rear drivers side wall and the service window were on the opposite wall you'd have a direct flow from one to the other, and I'm not saying that is good or bad.
 
But if all the equipment were in the same position as above and the passenger side front door was opened you'd end up sucking cold air through the entire truck. I think the air flow to the exhaust hood thing needs to be carefully thought out.
 
And ChefBuba you are correct on the roll up type door taking up overhead room with the springs and tracks, but if the passenger side front door is used to load and unload equipment you have the motor housing and what ever is directly behind the drivers seat to conted with right?
 
And one more question why in the world are some installing a wall with another door to contend with between the rear compartment and the drivers area? Is that a HD requirement?
Jack
 
 

Dr of BBQ


And one more question why in the world are some installing a wall with another door to contend with between the rear compartment and the drivers area? Is that a HD requirement?
Jack

 
Yes, based on what I've read in the rule for GA, the kitchen area has to be sealed from the cabin entry, bugs, etc. including serving window which is why I have to install a sliding screen.

I would suggest  you get a clarification from your local HD, to make sure your interpretation is correct. And if you already have done so wow that sucks. Taking up more room and making the interior even more cramped, and blocking the light that would normally come in through the windshield. If I have to do that I'm looking for a some kind of sliding screen. I think I can talk my health department into something other than a door and wall.
 
In fact that rule makes no sense what so ever. What would you have to do to a trailer entrance door?

Hello Guys.... Been reading this blog for a while now and have found it  helpful.... Just bought my truck last week and I will be starting the build out in the next few weeks.... Trying to build a BBQ truck here in Atlanta... Have a 1995 Chevy with an 18' box.... Will post a few pitchers and write a few post as I build... Will also be asking every one for there advice also....LOL

Tallatldad


Hello Guys.... Been reading this blog for a while now and have found it  helpful.... Just bought my truck last week and I will be starting the build out in the next few weeks.... Trying to build a BBQ truck here in Atlanta... Have a 1995 Chevy with an 18' box.... Will post a few pitchers and write a few post as I build... Will also be asking every one for there advice also....LOL

 
Welcome to RF. When you take your pictures if you don't have enough post to post them yourself shoot me a note and I'll post them for you. There are a couple of other good threads on trucks and trailer builds here on RF that you may want to do a search and read. RF has some pretty knowledgeable, and very professional  people and they are more than willing to help.
Good luck on you new adventure.
 
Jack

welcome man !
glad to have you here, as doc said, shoot him some pics so we can get you a thread started!...i just love new projects :)

Dr of BBQ


If you have to move a sink aren't you going to have to remove your fresh water and waste water tanks which would also require plumbing connections be cut and then rebuilt?

Well I think if you were to build it with the idea of moving it, you could make quick disconnects on the Fresh water lines and the grey water lines are easy enough to disconnect. I'd also put the tanks below deck in this kind of set up.
 
John

Freshly painted and ready for a wrap. Still trying to get that rusty bumper off. I have to cut the bolt off, I cannot get the last bolt to budge at all. I removed all the old tail and signal lights and purchased new LED lights, I'm replacing the license plate box and lights as well. Will snap more pics this afternoon on lunch break.
 

 

Hi guys I've been reading this forum for awhile trying to get ideas for my 1993 Chevy P30. It is a work in progress. I'm not as handy as you guys are but I'm doing my best with the free help I get. What do you all think about this sink? oops forgot I can't put in a link yet. Ebay search 
Portable Concession 4 "3" compartment sink

Thanks for any feed back

Does anyone know how to convert a rollup door to a swing door?

piccolachef


Hi guys I've been reading this forum for awhile trying to get ideas for my 1993 Chevy P30. It is a work in progress. I'm not as handy as you guys are but I'm doing my best with the free help I get. What do you all think about this sink? oops forgot I can't put in a link yet. Ebay search 
Portable Concession 4 "3" compartment sink

Thanks for any feed back

Do you have picture of your project? Post them on Flickr.com.

piccolachef
Does anyone know how to convert a rollup door to a swing door?

 
Man that's a good question. I'm not sure the opening is the same width. First you need to know they are the same width. But if it is I'd contact a local junk yard. They have email addresses of other junk yards and post items wanted between all the other junk yards, on their system. Mind you not every junk yard is on line with every other junk yard but it's worth a try.
 
I'd think having a custom door made may be expensive, but maybe not. If anyone can do it Challenger Door Company in Northern Indianian can do it. Do a search here on Road Food for their address and phone number they have made some concession trailer windows for members. And I have seen the custom cabinet doors they make from aluminum and they are awesome. And their prices are fair. But if I were going to go the custom door way I'd have a single door made not a double. I'm sure that would save you some money.
Jack

it's not that expensive and it's not that hard. I am about to embark on that very soon. I have a few construction buddies and they have basically said, " all you need to do is build it out to your door specs, throw up some studs and hang the door. They made it sound pretty easy and estimated cost was about $500 including the door. Told me it was easy enough I could do it myself. Well ONE i've never hung a door. so I won't be doing it myself. LOL I hate my roll up door. It only opens up about a 1/4 of the way b/c of the exhaust hood. I hung my hood using (2) 5' pieces of uni-strut and some spring nuts and 3/4 threaded rod to bolt on to and then lag screwed it to the wall. I'm exhausting my stuff through the side. I will be posting pics soon. Just been busy. I have 3 giant festivals this month. back to back to back weeks. 

THE WILD DOG


it's not that expensive and it's not that hard. I am about to embark on that very soon. I have a few construction buddies and they have basically said, " all you need to do is build it out to your door specs, throw up some studs and hang the door. They made it sound pretty easy and estimated cost was about $500 including the door.

 
So I'm curious what are you going to use on the outside to match your truck? What kind of door (material) ?

Did you try Stepvanparts.com? they have roll up doors and swing doors with several replacement parts
    i'm filling out my spec sheet they give, the prices run $700-$1000 for a new roll up door. I'm trying to figure out if its cheaper to go that way or try to replace with a swing door kit.
 

i will set up an account and post pics this weekend
Here are some of my pics for my build. 
go to : thepiccolachef.com/foodtruckbuild
 
 

Started out at 9am, ready to get some work done but I was interrupted after 2 hours and had to go on a family outing, so only go a few things done.
 
Installed my new Fan-Tastic powered roof vent (will install interior flashing once I complete wiring in ceiling and cover with FRP), driver seat and seat-belt (not completely installed, seat base is a pain in the azz). Opened up wall by the sink so I could run 18g wiring for my 12v water pump and switch. Installing aluminum on cabin ceiling and installing led interior lights.
 
Planned on building additional cabinets next to sink and testing water system but had unexpectedly limited time today. I am waiting on bumper and some stainless tables and shelves from Ebay and should be here to install this week. I am also purchasing a 100lb vertical propane tank from a guy up the road if I can get a hold of him, and I will be mounting on the rear of the truck once I get it.
 
Pics below:

 

 

 

 
http://farm7.static.flick...1655093_e17b974dba.jpg

That fan is going to be a bitch to clean, unless all your doing is dogs. If you are cooking, it will suck up a lot of grease out of the air.
I have an 8' hood and 2 roof vents, I have to clean the screens every week, they get real dirty fast.

piccolachef

i will set up an account and post pics this weekend Here are some of my pics for my build.  go to : thepiccolachef.com/foodtruckbuild

 
I can't seam to find your build pics, but I like your bio on your web page. Good job.

chefbuba


That fan is going to be a bitch to clean, unless all your doing is dogs. If you are cooking, it will suck up a lot of grease out of the air.
I have an 8' hood and 2 roof vents, I have to clean the screens every week, they get real dirty fast.

I thought about that and figured I would have to clean the screen, I am hoping it will not be too bad as I will only have a 4' hood over my 24" griddle and 12" char broiler. Small price to pay for good airflow. I will probably clean everything including the vent daily to avoid thick buildup. Thanks for the input.

Dr of BBQ

piccolachef

i will set up an account and post pics this weekend Here are some of my pics for my build.  go to : thepiccolachef.com/foodtruckbuild

I can't seam to find your build pics, but I like your bio on your web page. Good job.

I went to Piccola's site and typed in food truck and then the image gallery came up here.

Dr of BBQ

THE WILD DOG


it's not that expensive and it's not that hard. I am about to embark on that very soon. I have a few construction buddies and they have basically said, " all you need to do is build it out to your door specs, throw up some studs and hang the door. They made it sound pretty easy and estimated cost was about $500 including the door.

So I'm curious what are you going to use on the outside to match your truck? What kind of door (material) ?

I'm going to use the white aluminum that I used on my flipper door. My door is going to be metal and painted white as well. The back is going to be whiter than the rest of the truck for a period of time, but in time I am hoping that it will fade.. If not, I am going to ask the guy who I bought it from where he had it painted, The entire truck had a brand new paint shot when I bought it.

Dog,
I'm just guessing on these two thoughts:
 
You may be able to use some signage to off set the differance in colors. I'm not in to interior decor (LMAO) but some colors in a couple of signs will both cover and ether brighten or darken the new white. So that you nor anyone else will ever notice. 
 
Be sure you give your white aluminum plenty of support.

I have started building my truck about 2 weeks ago and also have a roll up door.... I have already cut it out and will be build a frame out of 1/2x 1 1/2" steal with a 24" door then will cover it with sheet metal.. I have already installed the 2 windows 36" wide x 32" tall, insulation, ply wood, FRP and Stainless where the hood will go... I have also gotten most of my equipment Thank God for Craigslist.... Got a cost from a used equipment company for used equipment for over $8.000.00 and looked on Craigslist and got everything for less than $3,000.00....... I am putting a used Pepsi frig, 36" char grill with full oven, 6 burner cook top, 2 fryers, 48" 2 door under counter frig, 3 comp sink with 2 drain boards, hand sink 24"x30 SS table and 2 6'x24" tables on the serving side....

Decided to finally test my sink setup today, I put water in the tank and hooked my 12v DC adapter to the pump and.....my fresh water tank turned into a jacuzzi...turns out that I had my pump installed with the water flow going in the wrong direction. I was able to reverse the pump mount and reconnect and than successfully test the pump as you can see below. My P trap leaked, so I need to put some nylon tape on the treads and re-tighten.

 
Worked on serving counter cabinet, cut out one access door, still need to cut out the other side and trim with aluminum. I have to order a custom stainless steel counter top that has door that lifts open as I plan on putting my drink cooler in the cabinet and lifting up the access door on the counter top to grab cold drinks. This will save space in the fridge. I built the door for the opening but I tried to leave 1/8" all the way around but the door has too much of a gap and is not square for some reason even though the opening and door measure correctly. So I have to try again.

 
The 24 x 30 stainless open front table for my 24" griddle arrived. Waiting on diamond plate to build a wrap in front of the grill area.

 
My wife is giving me a break this weekend so I will be doing more work tomorrow.

DR
 
 I decided to actually keep the roll up door. I am no longer mounting my generator on the bumper. I am going to mount a slide rail system in the back and slide the generator out when in use and close the door. ( cutting slats in the door to accomodate the rails)  Too much theft in my area right now, whos to say they just won't hack the legs off and leave the rest bolted to the bumper.  Another cool Idea I had was, since my door is going to open up about 4 feet only was to replace the white boards on the roll up with thick acrylic so that it can be see through on maybe 1-3 boards. Gives us a look out and ppl can glance in and see what's going on.  Still just a thought though, not 100% on it. I have to upload some serious pics though. I haven't had much time to do that lately, but working on it.

THE WILD DOG


DR, I am going to mount a slide rail system in the back and slide the generator out when in use and close the door. ( cutting slats in the door to accommodate the rails). Another cool Idea I had was, since my door is going to open up about 4 feet only was to replace the white boards on the roll up with thick acrylic so that it can be see through on maybe 1-3 boards. Gives us a look out and ppl can glance in and see what's going on.  Still just a thought though, not 100% on it. I have to upload some serious pics though. I haven't had much time to do that lately, but working on it.

 
Well we are all wanting pictures, to see your progress.
 
But what will your local HD say about your generator sitting inside (gas & Oil ) without being separated from the food service area during your moves or overnight? I'm not saying it's wrong just never heard of it before.
 
Don't you think you could make a good strong box to keep the local gang-bangers from stealing your generator and keep it in a permanent outside location? And then you'll not have to work that extra moving it in and out every move during the day or even at night just to close down.
 
I promise you the things that wear you out in the food vending business are the ordeal of set up and tear down. The part about prep, cooking and serving are a joy. But the BS stuff................... set up, tear down, every day wears the hell out of me.
 
I didn't mean to cause you to not take off your slide up door in previous post in fact I'd take it out in a heart beat. But you need to have a professional look to your truck. I think you can remove your slide up door and replace it with a wide steel door and make the area you fill in on both sides a advertising location. Kind of a billboard on the back of your truck. But what the hell you know that.
 
Here is a link that is very interesting on generators for vending:
http://www.neon-john.net/...ack_55G/Quiet_home.htm
If you want to see bigger pictures go to the site and click on the pictures
 
The Generac QuietPack is a low speed timing belt-driven 5.5kw generator designed for RV service.  It features single-side service, single location connections, remote-controllable and is one of the quietest generators I've ever tested. It uses the Briggs & Stratton Vanguard industrial V-twin 27 hp engine.  Most of the lack of noise is achieved by the simple technique of only running the engine at about 2000 RPM.  The two pole alternator is driven at 3600 RPM by means of a guaranteed-for-life timing belt and pulley system.

I purchased this generator from Advanced RV supply.  These guys have great prices and the price includes free shipping.  For a device that weighs several hundred pounds, free shipping is a significant discount.
I bought this generator for use with my concession trailer.  I needed a very quiet portable generator capable of supplying power to an all-electric concession stand.  This generator fit the bill perfectly. 

I mounted the generator on a garden cart for portability.  Great idea but it didn't work out so well.  The cart claimed to be rated for 1000 lbs of load (yeah, right!)  The 300 lbs of generator fairly quickly collapsed the undercarriage.  I replaced that stuff with some heavy duty pneumatic castors (not shown).

After many years of dealing with portable generators, I realized that one of the biggest operational hassles is fueling.  Having to fuel a portable generator is a major hassle when operating for a day or more at a time.  For safety, the generator should be shut down while refueling.  This disrupts the operation of the concession stand.  Plus it involves employees having to handle flammable gasoline.

Upon further consideration I realized that the outboard motor industry had long ago figured out how to safely handle gasoline.  The portable tank and the quick coupler makes handling gasoline safe and convenient.  Therefore I have rigged all my generators to use outboard motor fuel tanks.

In summary, I can say without doubt that this is the best and quietest portable generator I've ever tested.  There isn't a whole lot more that I could ask for in a generator.

Let's take a photo tour.

  Be sure to REFRESH each page on this site as I'm adding content on a daily basis.          
This photo shows the generator as it arrived. 
 
The service panel is off. The V-twin engine is to the left.  Note that it is completely enclosed in sound damping metal.  
A closer shot showing several features.  The oil change system is especially nice.
 
After having cursed the drain plug locations on various generators, I have nothing but praise for this system.  
Another view showing yet more features. 
 
As can be seen here, the oil change hose is simply unclipped, the cap removed
 
and the hose lowered into a suitable container.
 
Here is a closeup of the oil change system.
 
 
 
The dipstick.  
 
Here is where all the outside connections are made.  Note the waterproof automotive-type connector for the remote controls.  If you've ever fought to get heavy cables bent around to make the connections to an Onan, you'll really appreciate this battery connection.
 
 
The control panel.  Note the heavy welded studs and anti-vibration nuts used to hold things together.  
Here is a view of the fuel system. 
The fuel hose is simply pushed through the grommet, slipped over the fuel filter nipple and the clamp tightened. 
Note the superb Facet fuel pump.  Very quiet and efficient.
 
If you've ever camped in cold weather you've probably experienced carburetor icing.  With older Onans you just lived with it.  Newer ones have a damper that directs warm air to the carb.  Of course, you have to go outside to flip the lever.
Generac has a better idea.  This photo shows the electric fuel cutoff that also serves as an electric carburetor heater.  It applies heat right where it is needed - the emulsion tube.  This deices the carb without the power hit that warm air causes.
 
A view of the inside of the control box.  Note the single point ground system.  This greatly reduces conducted electrical noise.  Also note the RivNuts that receive the fasteners. 
 
This device contains real threads.  Much better than a punched hole and sheet metal screws like most manufacturers use.
 
 
A closer view of the control box.  Note the quality high temperature wiring.
 
 
The nameplate  
 
The generator cart is pictured above left.  This is a shot of the electrical connections.  I bypassed the internal breakers and installed an external breaker so that I don't have to remove the service panel to reset the breakers.  
Another view of the connector panel.  The QuietPack comes connected for 120 volt output but can be re-strapped for 240.  I have mine strapped that way. 
The panel features an RV 30 amp outlet, a 240 volt twist-lock and a convenience outlet.  
 
This shows the generator deployed at a concession event.  It is powering the concession stand, a commercial refrigerator and my RV.  It is quiet enough to be located right next to the stand. 
Note the outboard motor gas tank.  This tank can be changed out for another without shutting down the generator.        
 

Sorry you have to put /foodtruckbuild after the web addy and they should pop up
 

I'm building out a P-30 in Boise right now.
How do people typically secure the equipment to the wall? I'd hate to bolt right in to my brand new sandwich prep tables and freezers...

i am new to this site. anyway here goes. i just bought a 2000 international step van w/turbo diesel.
i just got my window complete 1500.00. i an learning so much on this site. i sell resturant equipment for
a living so i am getting a good price on everything. the problem i am having is that i can not hammer a nail in straight. so with my know how and my mechanic we are going to try todo this.

awesome pics. i am just starting  to build a food truck. what size water tank did you use.
please tell me where you got all the hardware for the set up ie pump water heater?
are you planning on having a fire suppression system.

Marco,and Sain,
With all due respect no one has the time ti list where and what they bought to finish a food truck. But fortunately for guys like you there are other builds here on Road Food that have a lot of that type information. Go to the top of this page and use the search engine. You'll find both truck and trailer builds will come up. You should read both kind of threads so you can find the information your looking for.
 
Then once your started and find yourself in a jam ask what others have done and they will help you in a heartbeat. But before you start anything go to your local health department and find out what they will or will not allow, every city is different.

Good luck to you both
Jack

Dr,
sorry. i understand what you are saying. thanks for the advise.
i have been to my LHD. I picked up my s/s for the inside today.
i am just so excited about doing this.

No apology necessary And I understand the excitement also. Your too new to road food to post pictures but if you want I'll post them for you just send them to my email address Jack@DrofBBQ.com. And please shoot a bunch of them so others can learn from your build. But the food truck build threads here on RF are awesome and  detail the trials and tribulations of the process, so do several searches on any topic with your build in mind.
Good Luck
Jack

Marco226,
I'm new to this site as you are, but i check this website everyday. I am also building a food truck and i see your from hawley pa. I'm from newfoundland just 20 min away. lol where do you sell food equipment from?

wow that's awesome. my company is in reading we deliver to this area twice a wk.
we should get together maybe we can help easch other. call me anytime 570-470-5003.
how far are you i your build?

Ok Marco226, I'll call ya. I'm taking a wild guess your name is marco? lol And as far as the truck goes I'm still building the inside frame of the truck. I have the s/s up and the window cut out and framed. I'm making the bumper right now to hold the 100lb propane tanks on the back. So i've been doing alot of welding. But to the heart of the matter; Does any one know where reese is? lol

What kind of pumps are you guys using for your water? Non submersible? The non submersibles at my local stores are all too big and are three phase. Will the HD go for a pump in the water tank? Any links would be greatly appreciated.
 
thank you
Kody

Kody,
I wouldn't go submersible if I were you. What your looking for is something like this
Flojet R3526144A Potable Water Supply Pump, 12 VDC, 174 GPH $49 online Automatic Triplex Diaphragm series pump runs smoothly, even without an accumulator tank. Built-in pulsation eliminator ensures smooth flow without the need for an accumulator tank. Soft, absorbing mounts reduce annoying vibration and noise while running. Self-priming pump can safely run dry. Snap-in 12 port fittings simplify install
$49 online
Automatic Triplex Diaphragm series pump runs smoothly, even without an accumulator tank. Built-in pulsation eliminator ensures smooth flow without the need for an accumulator tank. Soft, absorbing mounts reduce annoying vibration and noise while running. Self-priming pump can safely run dry. Snap-in 12 port fittings simplify installtion.
http://www.amazon.com/Flo...utomatic/dp/B002P33KVQ

or Shurflo 2088-492-444 115vac Water Pump RV Trailer Camper  $109 online The Shurflo 2088 series rv water pumps are considered the work horse of small diaphragm pumps. They are used in a variety of transfer and dispense-on-demand applications where rv water flows of up to 3.6 gallons per minute are required. All 2088 pumps feature self priming up to 10 feet (reduce 1 foot per 1000 foot altitude), one way check valve to prevent backflow, and automatic operation with the built in pressure demand switch. SHURflo's rv water pump features integrated low RPM permanent magnet motor attached to its ball bearing pump head assures whisper-quiet operation in every standard installation.http://www.amazon.com/gp/...r=1W8WSTEC5DDZTZY4YST6

Do a google search for shurflo water pumps.

shop amazon for everything, great pricing and most free shipping.