Cape Cod Vacation Report

Hi Everyone! We just returned from one glorious week in (or does one say "on"?) Cape Cod. I have some things that I'd like to share for anyone out there who is interested.

We started out last Friday night. We had planned on arriving at Pepe's in New Haven around 8 pm, but that didn't happen. We ended up getting there about 10 pm instead. We rushed to the doors only to be totally disappointed - no clam pies I thought Bob was going to cry! So we "settled" for a regular, plain pie. Which was anything but - it was wonderful. Charred crispy crust, with a slightly sweet sauce and cheese. Yum. We were very happy with our alternative. I assured Bob that we would stop on the way home and try to get the elusive clam pie everyone so raves about. (that didn't happen, either, but more on that later...)On to our overnight stop in Mystic, CT.

We stayed at the Mystic Hilton (Priceline)- and it was very nice. Friendly staff, tastefully decorated room - and the bed was wonderfully comfy. Very nice experience and would recommend it. After a great nights sleep we were off to Abbott's Lobster Pound! Dying to try the hot lobster roll - and we did. And it was good. But not at all like anything we expected. I had envisioned big chunks of white and pink meat in a traditional New England style hot dog roll. Instead, it was mostly claw meat on a sesame hamburger roll, with butter. Still, very good. Looking back at the Roadfood Review, I can see now that this was my fault - the perception of a hot lobster roll - in the pictures it is represented just as it was served. The clam chowder was very good too. Two new roadfood places under our belt - and very happy with both of them.

We headed up to the Cape from there and arrived around 4. We stayed at our timeshare in Dennis, The Edgewater. They remodeled and we were pleasantly surprised. We even had our own hot tub outside on the patio. Nice feature - real nice feature

That night we went to The Sailing Cow in Dennisport.

http://www.sailingcow.com

Very reasonable prices, interesting atmosphere and good service. Good food (most importantly) too - we both had the Lobster Casserole - a few too many breadcrumbs was our only criticism. The stuffed Quohog was delicious too. It's a nice place to have dinner.

Breakfast Sunday morning was at The Wee Packet - one of the strangest names for a restaurant I've ever heard.

http://www.weepacket2.com/welcome1.html

Bob had the corned beef hash (home-made and great)and eggs, and I had fresh blueberry pancakes and just about the best bacon ever! Truly an excellent breakfast. Very, very happy.

Ok..need a break - more later...Sue

Thanks great report ...

I'm goin to be in New Haven later this week ... you got me ready for Pepe's.

Definitely go there!

Ok - where was I - I guess the best way to do this is to list the restaurants and our opinion of them. I can't remember when we did what, so here goes:

Original Seafood - I believe in Dennisport - I can't believe no one has reviewed this place. It's been around since the 50's and the fried food was wonderful - pillowy soft fried scallops with a light crunchy coating. Excellent fried clams, fried haddock sandwich. They are right down the road from Kreme n' Kone (sp?) . We wanted to try there too, but went back the 2nd time to The Original Seafood Co. because we couldn't imagine the K & K being any better. Next time we go we'll compare, but really - I think it would be dang near impossible to get better. Absolutely recommended.

The Cape Cod Claddagh Inn - We wanted steak, it was close by. They didn't have steak that night, so we had burgers. It was ok. This is definitely a "local" bar - service wasn't that great. I think it'd be a much better place to drink and party (they had Karoke).

Ardeo's : http://ardeocapecod.com/menu.html We had a gift certificate for here. It was good - Bob loved his lamb and chicken kebobs, and I had something totally not like I would normally get: pork medalions with apples in a amaretto sauce - it was very different, and very good. The sampler appetizer is way too much for two people. At first I thought this was a chain - it has that look and feel about it- but it appears that it isn't. I can see that happening in the future though.

Salty's : http://www.saltys-capecod.com/index.htm
Twin Lobster Special for $19.99 could not be beat, decent fried scallops as well.

Marconi's BBQ - we couldn't resist stopping in for a pulled pork sandwich after seeing the stacks of wood and smokers outside. It was very good, but not my husband's I am completely biased on this matter!

Young's Lobster -Rock Harbor - it was recommended to us to go to Captain Cass's in Rock Harbor-both by Bob's parents and a great local guy named Ted, which we had the pleasure of having drinks with - only to find them closed. However right next door is another small shanty called Young's. Positively delicious lobster roll. Big white chunks bound with very little mayo on a Bun. Fresh as can be. A bargain too at $8.95 each. Not sure if that price will go up as it gets to be "in season" on the Cape. We went the week before everyone usually arrives. Cap'n Kass (not sure of the spelling) will have to wait another year. They are only open on weekends before the summer starts.

The Wooden Shoe - a bar in Dennis - off the beaten path - we didn't eat there, but it is a great little place- reasonable, nice people- they don't price gouge you for drinks - just a great time. The owners are really great. The first time we went to the Cape they had just opened and we joked about the tee shirts they came out with: it has a big picture of a cartoon-y lobster with EAT ME at the Wooden Shoe on the front. 5 years later, the tees are alot more subdued, but we all had a good laugh when we said we still had the original shirt! A great place to hang out-reasonable and fun company.

Ok - time to go home - more again later - I still have to tell you about our ride home!!!! 3 roadfood stops in one day!! Have a good night...Sue

Happy to hear you had such a great time at the Cape and going to and from .
Yes, Abbotts switched from the great New England split top roll to the hamburger bun a couple of years ago - I think it was a big mistake, but it's still tasty and the deck is a wonderful place to sit and watch the boats sail by.

Cheers, John

Not fair, aleswench! You just made me sooooo homesick for the Cape! I used to spend a lot of time there in the summers for 15 years.

Nice trip report. Glad you had the chance to eat a lot of lobster in Dennisport and Dennis. Did you go to any beaches? At any rate, it's hard to beat the Cape........unless it's Hilton Head which is pretty cool too. Every summer we would sail our boat from Boston Harbor to Ptown and bicycle around, picnics on the beach, lobster bakes on the beach. Many, many fabulous memories of the Cape!

Keep posting about the trip!

Great reporting. Lucky you beat the rain by a week. To demystify the Wee Packet a little, the third definiition for packet from my online source reads:
A boat, usually a coastal or river steamer, that plies a regular route and carries passengers, freight, and mail.

Thus, a small boat?

quote:

Originally posted by gatorbreath

Great reporting. Lucky you beat the rain by a week. To demystify the Wee Packet a little, the third definiition for packet from my online source reads:
A boat, usually a coastal or river steamer, that plies a regular route and carries passengers, freight, and mail.

Thus, a small boat? It's a submarine also. Chow Jim

Thanks everyone, it’s fun to go over it all again in my mind and post it- hopefully this will help anyone with questions about the Cape.

Yes, we went to Marconi Beach for the perfect day. We brought a picnic lunch and we were even able to go in the water- it was surprisingly warm enough. We also went to The Beachcomber for lunch one afternoon:

http://www.thebeachcomber.com/

This is a really fun place with good food – we had the steamers (or as my mom-in-law would say “piss clams” – it always cracks me up to hear her say that ) and coconut shrimp for a light lunch, with a couple beers. Afterwards we walked across the parking lot to look at the beach. I thought it was on the same level, but much to my surprise you have to walk practically down the side of a sand mountain to get there. People looked like ants on the beach! Truly a beautiful view, if you aren’t afraid of heights (I have to admit, my knees did get a bit wobbly…)

Other places worth noting that we visited were Cape Cod Lavender Farm in Harwich –beautiful plants, soothing lavender soaps, really good lemon/lavender infused jelly and other lavender products.

http://www.capecodlavenderfarm.com/

And First Encounter Beach –

http://www.capecodvacation.com/cape_cod_beach_guide.cfm?BeachID=11

This is a great place for kids and nature lovers to explore. When the tide is out it creates tide pools that are filled with all kinds of sea creatures: hermit crabs, shrimp, small fish etc. It’s a really interesting place.

Ok, so where was I on food ?? Marion’s Pie Shop in or near Chatham was wonderful. We bought a delicious “Razzleberry” pie – flaky crust – yummy. She also sells savory pies – clam, seafood and others. We didn’t try these this trip, but have it on good authority that they are delicious.

Holiday Hill Ice Cream near Dennis had great chocolate chip mint ice cream. And Blondies had great Chocolate Moose Tracks. Blondie’s advertises that they serve Hershey’s ice cream, which initially turned us off, but it was close to home base so we tried it. It wasn’t anything like store bought Hershey’s – it was surprisingly good.

Well, I think that is all for the “good” part of the report, except the ride home, which I’ll get to later. As for the “bad” part, one huge disappointment: Baxter’s Boathouse. Our last night we figured we’d do a seafood blowout at Baxter’s – crossing another place off the list. We were seriously disappointed. The prices were outrageous compared to other places we had been to - $30 for a 1 /14 lb lobster - $20 for a very small lobster roll (compared to say, Young’s were we were before – far superior roll for $8.95)- and the food quality was not good either. Bready, doughy clams, the lobster roll had lots of celery and was not very plentiful – it felt like a huge tourist trap. Something has definitely had to change for it to have been reviewed well by the Stern’s because it is not “Roadfood” in my opinion anymore. The atmosphere is great, but that’s about it.

Afterward we drove around looking for Four Seas ice cream, but couldn't find it. I was too ticked off about dinner and was in a crab-ass mood. (I admittedly don't "roll with the punches" very well when it comes to food..) So we went back, and finished up the pie and had a good soak in the hot tub. All was right with the world again...

The other place we were less than thrilled with was “The Egg & I” for breakfast. Completely unmemorable. Go to the Wee Packet down the street. And remember to say the name with a bad Scottish accent when you do

So, one big “bad apple” the whole trip – not bad, hey? It’s lunchtime – I’ve just written myself into “starving” mode – the last 3 places to follow …

Oh - two other places of interest: Truro Winery and almost right across the street is the Atlantic Spice Company Warehouse. We did a pleasant tasting at the Winery and came home with the "Chardonney Light" - "light" not referring to the actual wine, but the Lighthouse it is named after. The bottle is shaped like a lighthouse, too.

The Spice Warehouse was incredible. The smell pulling into the parking lot was overwhelming. They have a huge array of bulk spices available. We picked up whole vanilla beans, nutmeg, some spice blends and two different kinds of chili powder. It's a great place!

Ok, so last leg of the trip - the dreaded ride home. Rainy, muggy, horrible drive home. Until we got to Westport - the light at the end of the tunnel. I highly recommend the side trip to get to Margarite's. Reviewed by the Sterns and in Roadfood, it is located in a small strip mall off the beaten path. Wonderful place. Everything is home-made. Awesome lemonade. We had Stuffies, which were laced with linguisa (sp?) that were out of this world. Then Bob had the oyster stew- more like a soup, and I had the "Billi Bi" - which is an herbed cream soup with mussels. We like this better out of the two. Then we split broiled scallops. They were fantistic as well. A truly great Roadfood stop.

Also in Westport, a way's down the road, is Butler's Colonial Donuts. In the RF book, it says that they are only open in the morning and when the donuts are sold out the shop is closed. I took a chance and called them at 1 pm and was sure glad that I did. Surprisingly, they were open until 5. We rushed right over. They now have a sign posted that the cream donuts and long john's are available for the asking, any time of the day. They put them together fresh. Let me tell you - these heavenly donuts are EASILY one of the most delicious things we have EVER eaten. Oh my God! We bought 4 or 5 hoping that they'd make it home in ok condition. I put them on the passenger seat floor with the AC turned on to the bottom - I coveted them like diamonds. Yeah, they are that good. When we came home we shared them with friends, who were very appreciative, and they survived the 5 hour trip almost unchanged. There is nothing like eating them there straight out of the shop. I would highly recommend making this detour - it's well worth it. I'm going to miss those donuts

http://www.roadfood.com/Reviews/Overview.aspx?RefID=41

Lastly, we got hungry again through CT, and stopped at Swanky Franks. Excellent fries, great service, nice people, good dog - totally happy. True Roadfood. One note though, in the Roadfood book it states that it's off of Exit 13. I think they've changed the exit numbers since then, and now it is actually Exit 14. A great place to get a dog - and definitely the fries.

So that's it - I hope that this report will help anyone planning a trip to the Cape. Thanks so much for reading. Sigh....wish I was there now....Sue

Billi Bi; I've only ever found it on a menu once and that was right here in little old New Paltz at the Swiss Country Inn (now defunct). I always ordered it when I was there - it was creamy, bright yellow, loaded with mussels, and very tasty with cayenne - it's easy enough to make at home, maybe I'll have it Friday.

Cheers, John

great report...so why again did you miss Pepe's the second time?

Oh - sorry - it was POURING rain and we almost "bought" it on 95 - this car full of young kids came screaming up our ass and practically rear ended us. Then they pulled around us and looked at US like we did something wrong. It really shook us up - by the time we were done cursing and thanking God, we passed the exit and had lost whatever appetite we had. But by the time we got by Swanky's we were hungry again. Pepe's clam pie will be something we still have yet to look forward to!

And thanks Seafarer - I bet I could make that too. The mussels were shelled, by the way. Not sure if that's how you had it....How are you and Gail doing? Miss you! Sue

Great CC report Aleswench. You hit a lot of places I wasn't aware of. You hit the nail on the head with Baxters Boathouse though. I doubt if anyone goes there twice but it's location and external appearance ensure a constant supply of suckers in the tourist season. I was there two years ago and prices were beyond outrageous then and the help was none too friendly.

Super report, Sue. I wish more members would do these journal-type reports. You guys must have been busy to get to all of those places! Hope to see you in August!

I agree, I love seeing reports like this! I can't travel so it's great to see places through others eyes.

Great report! It helps to know the current ins and outs of places we've read about and new places too!

Awww -thanks guys! I'm happy that you all appreciate it. Yes, we did alot of running around, but most of the places were on the way to where-ever we wanted to be.

Roy, I'm so happy you agree with me. I thought I was crazy - the place was near to full and I just couldn't for the life of me figure out why. Tourist trap for sure.

Have a great weekend everyone!

GREAT report, Sue, even tho I am just a little jealous. I sure do miss the Cape. Glad you enjoyed it and shared the trip with us.

Great Report
Ya should have e-mailed me to meet up

I should have mentioned a great place you missed even though you were in the vicinity. For a great hot dog, the Dog House at 189 Lower County Rd in Dennis has the best; cooked split, whole or flame broiled, your choice and they have the absolutely best onion rings..shoestring style, that I have had anywhere, even Liam's. It is all outdoor picnic table dining and so clean you could eat off of the ground. Homemade genuine lemonade too. Other stuff available too but this is all you will need.

Interesting. Was it the Atlantic Spice Company in Truro? I've never been or heard of it until you mentioned it and I googled it. Maybe i'll hit it when I visit the parents in late July.

Great report !!!!

I felt like I was there right along side with you .

Benzee

quote:

Originally posted by wanderingjew

Great Report
Ya should have e-mailed me to meet up

Yes, dammit! We had mentioned it early in the week, got a little hectic and each of us thought the other wrote you. We smacked our heads when we got to RI. Sorry about that. We really wanted to see you. There's always next trip - there are so many places we missed, we'll be back again soon. Hope to see you at the Crab-meet?

and, yes, Atlantic Spice is in Truro. Worth going for the smell alone. Right across the street (practically) is Truro Winery if you are interested, as well.

Thanks again everyone! Sue

quote:

Originally posted by aleswench

quote:

Originally posted by wanderingjew

Great Report
Ya should have e-mailed me to meet up

Yes, dammit! We had mentioned it early in the week, got a little hectic and each of us thought the other wrote you. We smacked our heads when we got to RI. Sorry about that. We really wanted to see you. There's always next trip - there are so many places we missed, we'll be back again soon. Hope to see you at the Crab-meet?

and, yes, Atlantic Spice is in Truro. Worth going for the smell alone. Right across the street (practically) is Truro Winery if you are interested, as well.

Thanks again everyone! Sue

That's OK, at least you guys had a great time on the Cape

I hope to make it to Crabstock 2006. I'm trying to work on getting a good deal on Price line- I really, really, really want to stay near the Inner Harbor again.