quote:Originally posted by tonemonster2
So last night I went to the Cookhouse in Darien that has been getting decent reiviews and claims it is Connecticuts best bbq. It was pretty good, I guess, and therein lies my question. How am I to judge ?
Ardie Davis, otherwise known in 'Que circles as Remus Powers, Ph.B.(Philosopher of Barbecue, Greasehouse University),author of the
Kansas City BBQ Pocket Guide, writes in the introduction to that book(with my abridgements):
"A big mistake in matters of taste is deference to so called "experts." When barbecue visits your palate, let there be no question as to who is the expert. You are it. Sometimes you'll discover excellent barbecue that has been berated by other experts. Sometimes you'll agree with them. Just be true to your own taste.
"Remember at all times and in all greashouses:
There is no universal standard of excellence. Barbecue experts use three que-linary guidelines in evaluating barbecue and at least seven for discovering the most likely places to find good barbecue.
I.Judging the Barbecue on Your Plate
A.Appearance 1.
Smoke ring: a red smoke ring offers visible proof that the meat has been smoked. The smoke ring will show on the outside edge of ribs, beef brisket and pork shoulder. The ring will appear next to the bone in poultry.
Due to differences in holding methods and the passage of time from the pit to the plate, some commercial barbecue doesn't show a smoke ring. If you can't see the evidence of smoke, you should still be able to taste it. If you don't see smoke rings and/or don't taste smoke, you aren't eating barbecue.
2.
Presentation: What you see on the plate sends a message to your palate. When food looks and smells good, we think it will taste good. Woe to the pitmaster who disappoints us.
B.Tenderness Tender barbecue is easy to chew and swallow. It needn't be so tender that it falls off the bone. My personal preference is crisp on the outside and tender on the inside.
C. Taste Taste is the single most important standard for judging barbecue. It also enjoys the least consensus. This is where you must listen to your own taste buds.
In general, good barbecue tastes smoky, not bitter or bland. It tastes rich, not anemic. It is packed with a symphony of flavors that can only be produced with a pit, fire, smoke, secret seasonings and the care and attention of a skilled pit master.
Sauce should be desirable, not necessary. And it should be desired only if it truly compliments the flavor of the meat instead of overpowering it. If the meat can't stand alone on good flavor, leave it alone.
II. Finding a Good Greasehouse (This is a combination of Ardie's own methods and those taught to him by Vince Staten and Greg Johnson, authors of
Real Barbecue):
A. Name A good greasehouse will bear the name of its owner. No self respecting Bubba, Bob, or Johnny would put his own name and reputation on a place that sells bad barbecue.
B.Woodpile If you don't see a woodpile outside, think twice about going inside. If the woodpile is neatly stacked, like it's just for show, think twice again.
Buddy's Smoke Corollary: "If you have parked your car within 50 yards of the greasehouse in question, and, upon exiting said car, you do not smell smoke, think twice about walking in the front door. If after thinking twice, you decide to proceed anyway, and upon entering the establishment still do not smell smoke, stop thinking, turn around, walk back to your car, and drive away without further consideration." In my mind, the
Smoke Corollary is perhaps even more important, and a better indicator than the woodpile as to whether quality 'Que lies within. There are many excellent greashouses located within highly populated, highly regulated, urban confines. These places would, by law, not be allowed to leave their woodpiles in plain view, neatly stacked or otherwise. Therefore, under certain circumstances, the smoke test can be a more reliable guide.
It could also be argued that those same urban restrictions might apply to the ventilation of smoke, making it difficult to detect within 50 yards. Thus the need to actually
walk into the greasehouse you're considering.
C. Vehicles A combo of pickup trucks,vans, Volvos, BMWs, Porsches, Chevrolets, Fords, Colts, Cadillacs, Continentals, and Toyotas is a good sign.
D. Windows Don't trust clean windows. Pit time, not spit shine, is what's important in a greasehouse. The greasehouse is the only place where you want to see through a glass darkly.
E. Signs Greasehouse signs should advertise barbecue-not hot dogs, hamburgers or tacos. If the pitmaster isn't making a living on the quality of the barbecue, it doesn't speak well for the place. A "Chili" sign, though, is O.K.; it's a hospitable concession to visiting Texans and Seattelites.
F. Flies If you don't see any flies near the premises, the flies may know something that you
should know.
G. Friendly Service In the best greasehouses you'll feel welcome the moment you step inside. If a place has a bad attitude but good barbecue, get carryout."
Well, that may be more than you wanted to know, but that should just about cover it. Not just in Connecticut, but anywhere else your 'Que ramblings may take you.
Ardie has taken me to some mighty fine joints in KC. He's even the guy who turned me on to one of my favorite non-'que places; Three Brothers, in Milwaukee. Ardie knows his stuff, and Vince Staten and Greg Johnson's
Real Barbecue is a classic in the genre. If you can't trust the methodology of these guys in your quest for good "Que, who
are you gonna listen to?
As they say in fine rib eating establishments everywhere: Bone Apetit!
Buddy
