Double Damage in the Old Dominion

Thanks Karen!  It sounds pretty good actually.

  In the Sterns' book "Real American Food" there is a recipe for Shockingly sweet stewed tomatoes...It has 28oz. of tomatoes, 8 slices white toast, 8 Tablespoons of butter, And 1 CUP of sugar!!! Yowza,it is super sweet but very very tasty.  It is from Hap Townes in Nashville...I fear that they have closed though...sigh. 

wanderingjew


Although there were other coffee houses I wanted to check out, I  had to return to Lamplighter Roasting because all the other coffee houses didn't open until 9AM.
 

 

 

Isn't that the oddest thing? Even my beloved...

 

 

...in the former Capital of the Confederacy doesn't

open its doors until 9:00 am each day.

 

Reminds me of the Mark Twainism (?) of when

the end of the world comes, he wants to be in

Virginia because everything in Virginia happens

25 years later.

 
 

i95

wanderingjew


Although there were other coffee houses I wanted to check out, I  had to return to Lamplighter Roasting because all the other coffee houses didn't open until 9AM.
 

 

 

Isn't that the oddest thing? Even my beloved...

 

 

...in the former Capital of the Confederacy doesn't

open its doors until 9:00 am each day.

 

Reminds me of the Mark Twainism (?) of when

the end of the world comes, he wants to be in

Virginia because everything in Virginia happens

25 years later.

 
 

Funny you should mention that.
 
I was referring to Sunday hours at the other coffee houses.  Rostov's remains closed all day on Sundays.

mar52

Anyone in Virginia ever hear of Hi's (or High's) Ice Cream?

Hey Marlene, I wrote to my cousin in Moneta, VA to ask about High's.  There was one shop in Bedford where our grandmother used to take us for ice cream.  My cousin said that store's been gone for 30+ years -- and that it wasn't the best ice cream in town, but the only ice cream in town!    Chris

mar52

Anyone in Virginia ever hear of Hi's (or High's) Ice Cream?

Back in 1960 it was the place to go in Hopewell or Petersburg (I forget which) for ice cream.  They had a special cone that held 3 small scoops of different flavored ice cream.  Something that still makes me smile 50 years later.

If it is the same High's that I remember, it is still around, well sort of.  They became High's Dairy Store, basically a convenience store like 7-11, but a little friendlier.  They were all around Virginia, DC and Maryland as late as the mid 80's, now it appears that they are only located around Baltimore.  The one that was near my house sold the best halfsmokes I have ever had.

Very cool!  High's is one of my childhood food memories.

Any ice cream to a kid is good ice cream!  It's only of late that I've become picky.

Nice to know that they're still around in whatever incarnation.

Monday May 10

This is the last chapter of the trip.

I was heading to the Hampton Roads area today to spend all day exploring the area since my flight didn't leave out of Norfolk until 8pm.

I started out my day at Black Hand Coffee Company in Richmond, also in the fan district. This was a real bohemian down-and-out coffee house. They really were down and out- no dark roasts - no muffins- no scones- only danish (several kinds though)- no raw sugar too!  I regretted not returning to Shockoe Slip Coffee Roasters, since I really enjoyed their iced coffee the previous Friday. It would have been worth the schlep through downtown.

Unfortunately while I was in Richmond I reviewed my triple A guide which warned me that the Nauticus Museum in Norfolk and the Naval Shipyard Museum in Portsmouth are both closed on Mondays, however the Mariner Museum in Newport News is open!
right????!!!!



Wrong!!!!

My triple A book lied- I got there and they were closed on Mondays!

On to plan B. I drove down to Portsmouth and took a stroll around their old town area....

and walked by their closed Naval Shipyard museum



As I was taking this photo- this guy waddled up to me- "quacking away"




I'm not sure which warship this is but it was adjacent to the museum.



Here are some photos of old town Portsmouth





This is William Crawford, the founder of Portsmouth










With all this walking around  town, I was getting hungry and lunchtime was approaching...

I drove across the bridge to Norfolk and found my way to this oyster bar



A.W Shucks. Although there is a similar restaurant in Charleston SC with the same name (and one in Dallas too if I recall), they are unaffiliated with eachother....

I entered the place and it definitely had a "roadfoody" atmosphere...

I perused the specials board



But this is one of the few places I went to where I already knew what I wanted...



I sat down and enjoyed a local brew- It was an India Pale Ale but I can't remember the name of the brewing company...

I started out with the tomato crab soup



Just loaded with hunks of fresh crabmeat, with strong hits of old bay and worcestershire  in the zesty tomato stock. It was probably one of the best , if not the best crab soups I've ever had...

Now to enjoy what I've been waiting for...



The crab shucks dinner.
This is AW Shuck's version of Crab Norfolk. Crabmeat baked  in garlic  butter.

This was one of the best meals of the trip. The dish was not overflowing with copious amounts of butter or overbearing garlic but had just the right amount of each. The meal came with choice of two sides. The Hushpuppies were crisp-plump- and moist- and filled with cornmeally goodness. The collards were just about perfect- with hints of pork flavor.

Here's a closeup of the Crab Norfolk




Although I shelled out $40 for this meal it included beer, tax and tip and it was well worth it!

After my amazing lunch I was a few minutes away from downtown Norfolk. I ended up at



The Douglas McArthur Memorial and Museum...

Although I didn't know much about the man, I certainly learned alot from walking around the museum.




I had no idea that General McArthur's wife died just a decade ago and lived to be 101!





There is is famous pipe

After leaving the museum I headed towards the riverfront....
I was surprised by all the mermaid statues around downtown Norfolk..



As I was strolling the Waterfront, I noticed this old warship being towed...



I also walked by the closed Nauticus Museum




and adjacent to the Museum,



The USS Wisconsin...

After strolling around the waterfront, I wanted to see if Harbor Park was open....






Harbor Park is the home of the Norfolk Tides, the triple A team for the Baltimore Orioles. Unfortunately the Ballpark wasn't open
and there was no way to gain access into the park..

After walking back towards downtown,  it was approaching 5pm and I decided to head out of downtown for my last meal of the trip...




The Willoughby Inn



Located in a real rough and tumble waterfront neighborhood with other dives and seafood shacks, The Willoughby Inn has been around "forever" and is known for their fresh cheap seafood...



Entering through the bar, there is a separate entrance to the restaurant. The daily specials are listed on the board




 Although the interior has character it definitely needs some updating..

The meal starts with a nice bread tray



which includes buttered toast, cornbread and some decent hushpuppies...

I ordered the Fried Oyster Dinner...



The Fried Oysters were excellent - nuggets of fresh oyster meat encased in a crunchy fried batter, on par with the Yaquina Oysters I enjoyed at Dan and Louis in Portland OR a few years ago... Unfortunately the fries and the



coleslaw that came with the meal were just "ho-hum" and the slight hint of onion in the coleslaw didn't help matters..

Although I was dissappointed that they didn't have the peanut butter pie that was listed on the menu....



I have to say that the moist and chocolatey German Chocolate Cake quickly made me forget that. It was  a nice finish to a fantastic trip...

After dinner, it was a short 8 mile drive back to the airport...... And I was back home by 11:15PM...


These are the food highlights of the trip

I still say the best meal was at Mama Mary's   even though there were a couple of misses, the sweet potato pie and peach cobbler just put it right over the edge.
AW Shucks comes close and The Surrey House was not too far behind.
Best BBQ- undoubtedly Pierce's Pitt BBQ

Unfortunately the "What the Frig??" award goes to Phillips' Continental Lounge...

WJ-
I agree that Mama Mary's was my #1 on the trip, with Pierce's Pitt being the best bbq.  BTW, beautiful photos!

Yes, that looks like a lovely day out with some lovely seafood!

Great report.  Those fried oysters  look wonderful...........one of my favorite foods.  I must be odd as I do not like Pierces barbeque at all; however, my son loves it.

I love the swath that you guys have cut through Virginia!  That country ham plate at Surrey House and those sides at mama Mary's looked amazing!  I wonder if the ice cream you had at Carl's might have been Dole Whip?

If you guys make it up to the city we should do a soul food tour of Harlem: chicken & waffles, red velvet cakes, yams, collards, you get the idea!!

Greymo-
WJ and I agree that we both really like the pork bbq sandwiches and the sweet potato sticks, but don't like any other sides at Pierce's Pitt.

I seem to visit every three years or so and parking lot just keeps getting bigger and bigger. 

billyboy

If you guys make it up to the city we should do a soul food tour of Harlem: chicken & waffles, red velvet cakes, yams, collards, you get the idea!!

You have officially gotten my attention.  I would love that!

If I had $40 and I was on the other side of the country you know where I'd be eating.

WJ that looks amazing!

i95

wanderingjew


Although there were other coffee houses I wanted to check out, I  had to return to Lamplighter Roasting because all the other coffee houses didn't open until 9AM.
 

 

 

Isn't that the oddest thing? Even my beloved...

 

 

...in the former Capital of the Confederacy doesn't

open its doors until 9:00 am each day.

 

Reminds me of the Mark Twainism (?) of when

the end of the world comes, he wants to be in

Virginia because everything in Virginia happens

25 years later.

 
 

That is the God's honest truth!
I am taking notes as I read this thread and will post my own prespective (# 3!) ASAP. Probably Monday. Sorry I've not chimed in before - haven't been on the board all week.
 
Cathy  <--- seriously - you can use my name guys! 

BelRose

mar52

Anyone in Virginia ever hear of Hi's (or High's) Ice Cream?

Back in 1960 it was the place to go in Hopewell or Petersburg (I forget which) for ice cream.  They had a special cone that held 3 small scoops of different flavored ice cream.  Something that still makes me smile 50 years later.

If it is the same High's that I remember, it is still around, well sort of.  They became High's Dairy Store, basically a convenience store like 7-11, but a little friendlier.  They were all around Virginia, DC and Maryland as late as the mid 80's, now it appears that they are only located around Baltimore.  The one that was near my house sold the best halfsmokes I have ever had.

I just found out today(!) that the last surviving High's is in Portsmouth, VA. I'm going to put it on the list of places to try "real soon"! OMG! I hadn't thought of those wacky cones in decades!
Cathy 

WJ & BB

My Uncle lives in Louisa, VA (outside Richmond) he has been after me for a while to come for a visit.  Your trip reports make me want to escape to VA and get lost in the food and the history.

Thanks

Looks like a lot of good eats.

billyboy


I love the swath that you guys have cut through Virginia!  That country ham plate at Surrey House and those sides at mama Mary's looked amazing!  I wonder if the ice cream you had at Carl's might have been Dole Whip?

If you guys make it up to the city we should do a soul food tour of Harlem: chicken & waffles, red velvet cakes, yams, collards, you get the idea!!

If you do this, I'll try to be there. I'm not the travelin' kinda person these two guys are, but I'll see if I can work it out.
Cathy

CajunKing


WJ & BB

My Uncle lives in Louisa, VA (outside Richmond) he has been after me for a while to come for a visit.  Your trip reports make me want to escape to VA and get lost in the food and the history.

Thanks

You really can get lost in the history. Jamestown, Williamsburg, Yorktown....
Dale hit some of what I'd think of as the more obscure sites.
Cathy

Williamsburger

CajunKing


WJ & BB

My Uncle lives in Louisa, VA (outside Richmond) he has been after me for a while to come for a visit.  Your trip reports make me want to escape to VA and get lost in the food and the history.

Thanks

You really can get lost in the history. Jamestown, Williamsburg, Yorktown....
Dale hit some of what I'd think of as the more obscure sites.
Cathy

 
Exactly..
 
I had visited Williamsburg back in 2003. I spent an entire day there and easily could have gone back and spent at least another half a day there.
 
I didn't think an afternoon visit to Jamestown and Yorktown would have covered enough ground for me, so I went with the plantation tour.

Wow, these all look some classic places, now I need to bookmark this thread. I am going to Virginia tomorrow, but I won't be close to any of these places. It may take a while before I get to check them out. Thanks guys.

What an enjoyable trip report, WJ.  Loved all the historic photos and the food pics as well!!

OK, I finally get to write up my trip report!
 
First of all - the photo of myself , Terry and Cliff? - I'm much happier than I look!
I look like I'm going to be sick over the side of the boat.
 
I order of apperarence on Dale's report
Spot - can't avoid the bones. I them remember as a kid. Very hard to fillet.
Richmond Flying Squirrels - possible the most ridiculous name for a sports team ever.
(MHO)
Buz&Ned's - I recognized Dale from photos on the board, of course. We had a good time chatting and sharing the sweet potato fries (which I love) before Cliff showed up. It was nice that the guys appreciate history as much as I and Terry do. They were also very nice not to critize too harshly a place I where enjoying eating. I really like the spare ribs at B&N's (decided I *don't* really like baby backs) and the bourbon apples (my suggestion). I found the guys discussion about sweet cooked apples (esp. at breakfast) being particular a Southern thing very interesting. I agree that the pulled pork and the cole slaw were average. I think their are other BBQ places in Richmond that would be as good or better.
Hmmmm. BBQ crawl through Richmond?
I think food in general is a very subjective and BBQ in particular. The only more debated foods are hot dogs and pizza.
Somebody got it already but - Arthur Ashe! I still think the cut off children are kinda disturbing.
Visiting the UofR - it is considered one of the most beautiful campuses on the east coast.
Mama Mary's - going on the list! That sweet potato pie -OMG!
So is Goorich's. And we will have to go back to Pierce's since you all have been raving about it!
John Marshall House is right behind my workplace - the Library of Virginia (aka the State library and archives).
I think Dale explained the "Fan" pretty well. The main roads through downtown run paralell until Monroe Park when Monument&Grace go one way and Min and Cary go another and new street fork off in between so it looks like a fan (or a spreading tree) on a map. This very diverse area is full of trendy restaurants and old neighborhood establishments. Rich old families and boho student types live side by side. Great architecture. Interesting history. Site of many counter culture protests. Sorry, more than you wanted to know.
BuffetBuster nailed by Homeland Security! Or the VDOT equivilent.
Peanut soup - yeah "warm peanut butter" is a pretty good description. I've had better (unfortunately at the now "turned into a coffeehouse Shield's Tavern"). It can be jazzed up with a little cayenne.
I think Your picture is of Terry's baked chicken. I had ham biscuits which were really wonderful - salty ham and the soft roll, yum! My lunch also can with an apple fritter which is a dessert unto itself, so we took the peanut pie home. Peanut pie is very much like pecan pie - but with peanuts. There's a place in town that does a chocolate version.
The stewed tomatos at Surrey house are born out of the 18th & 19th century "puddings" I think. I've been looking for a old recipe, but can't find one.
The James River at Shirley Plantation - very narrow! When we crossed the ferry the river is a mile wide and at the mouth it is 5 miles.
Tanglewood's BBQ - anyone from Texas would need to be warned! 
Aw, shucks - going on the list!
BillyBoy - I'd love to try a soul food in Harlem tour!
 
Well those are quick notes based on scribblings I didi while reading the thread a week ago! HA!
 
Had fun! Anytime anyone wants a native guide LMK!
Cathy
 
 
 
 

This trip report is so informative.  Thanks, WJ!  Only a couple of comments:  the Willoughby Inn's atmosphere looks so fantastic,  I wouldn't dare want anyone to touch it.  I love that old pine paneling and beautiful lighting with the gorgeous turquoise tablecloths!  I want to make a special trip just to experience the place and those awesome oysters.

On another note, the picture you posted of the cornbread at Mama Mary's included Country Crock spreads.  UGH!!!!  Based on our experience of eating literally all over this country, it's getting harder and harder to find real butter at Roadfood establishments.  This may be our #1 complaint.  You have this wonderful bread and the only thing they give you is chemical laced fake butter. It's even gotten to the point that waitstaff don't even know what real butter is!!!  You ask for it, they say yes, they have it; order the baked potato and they put the CC on the plate.  You say, "that's not real butter."  They say, "Yes, it is.".  Aaarrrgghh!  Every summer I beg my husband to bring his own butter with us on our road trips - he refuses saying the restaurant ought to have it.   

Sorry to rant on your wonderful report, but that picture really brought it all back....

And, in the world of VA BBQ, we just discovered yesterday, the delicious pork served at Cowling's on US 460 in Waverly, VA.  It's a keeper on the way to OBX.

VAsils

Thanks for the compliment.

I've noticed the substitution for real butter too, however I noticed it specifically more down south than in other regions of the country, so I've decided to to just accept it.

The Willoughby Inn has great atmosphere,however I noticed some of the booths were a somewhat worn , more than what I would consider " acceptable" , I guess I should have been more specific. But the oysters, bread tray and dessert were fantastic.

I found a website  with their menu- although it looks like the menu is an old one- prices are little higher now.

http://rkpuma.com/AAA/WilloughbyInn/