Cooks Illustrated
Making Great Chili
The secret is using large cubes of beef chuck and a mixture of fresh and oven-roasted chiles.
The Problem: One of the biggest challenges we faced when we decided to try and come up with the "best" recipe for chili was to narrow the competition. There are so many different kinds of chili (Texas, New Mexico, Cincinnati, to name a few) that we knew we had to decide on a particular style and go from there.
The Goal: Our choice was Texas chili, a beanless dish that goes heavy on the meat (usually beef) and favors the use of ancho chiles, which have a deep, sweet, raisiny flavor. Once we knew (sort of) what we were after, we could concentrate on making a great bowl of Texas-style chili.
The Solution: While ancho chile powder will do, we got the best chile flavor by toasting and grinding fresh chiles. Flavor is also improved by adding bacon, which lends the dish sweetness and smokiness. Thickening helps, too, making for a smoother, softer, and more appealing sauce. (This can be accomplished with cornstarch, but masa harina--a type of corn flour made from sun- or fire-dried corn kernels--is preferred; unlike the cornstarch, it actually adds flavor while it thickens.)
One final ingredient that makes for a really great chili is time--chili improves from an overnight rest that gives the flavors a chance to blend and mellow.
Chili Con Carne
To ensure the best chile flavor, I recommend toasting whole dried chiles and grinding them in a mini-chopper or spice-dedicated coffee grinder, all of which takes only ten (very well-spent) minutes. Select dried chiles that are moist and pliant, like dried fruit. Count on trimming one-half to a full pound of waste from your chuck roast, so start with a four-pound roast to end up with three to three-and-a-half pounds of beef cubes. For hotter chili, boost the heat with a pinch of cayenne, a dash of hot pepper sauce, or crumbled pequin chiles near the end of cooking. Serve the chili with any of the following side dishes: warm pinto or kidney beans, corn bread or chips, corn tortillas or tamales, rice, biscuits, or just plain crackers, and top with any of the following garnishes: chopped fresh cilantro leaves, minced white onion, diced avocado, shredded cheddar or jack cheese, or sour cream.
Serves 6
3 tablespoons ancho chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 1/2 ounce), toasted and ground (see illustrations below)
3 tablespoons New Mexico chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 3/4 ounce), toasted and ground
2 tablespoons cumin seeds , toasted in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 4 minutes, and ground
2 teaspoons dried oregano , preferably Mexican
7 1/2 cups water , divided
1 beef chuck roast (4-pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 teaspoons table salt , plus extra for seasoning
8 ounces bacon (7 or 8 slices), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 medium onion , minced (about 1 cup)
5 medium cloves garlic , minced
4 - 5 small jalapeño chiles , cored, seeded, and minced
1 cup crushed tomatoes (canned), or plain tomato sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice from 1 medium lime
5 tablespoons masa harina or 3 tablespoons cornstarch
Ground black pepper
1. Mix chili powders, cumin, and oregano in small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup water to form thick paste; set aside. Toss beef cubes with salt; set aside.
2. Fry bacon in large, heavy soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; pour all but 2 teaspoons fat from pot into small bowl; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high; sauté meat in four batches until well-browned on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch, adding additional 2 teaspoons bacon fat to pot as necessary. Reduce heat to medium, add 3 tablespoons bacon fat to now-empty pan. Add onion; sauté until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and jalapeño; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chili paste; sauté until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved bacon and browned beef, crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce, lime juice, and 7 cups water; bring to simmer. Continue to cook at a steady simmer until meat is tender and juices are dark, rich, and starting to thicken, about 2 hours.
3. Mix masa harina with 2/3 cup water (or cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl to form smooth paste. Increase heat to medium; stir in paste and simmer until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately, or preferably, cool slightly, cover, and refrigerate overnight or for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.
STEP BY STEP: Toasting and Preparing the Chiles
1. Dried chile pods toasted in a 350-degree oven for about 6 minutes become fragrant and puffed.
2. When cool enough to handle, remove stems and seeds from the pods, rip them into pieces, and process until powdery, 30 to 45 seconds.
Smoky Chipotle Chili Con Carne
Grill-smoking the meat, a technique from food writers John and Matt Lewis Thorne, authors of the Serious Pig (North Point Press, 1996), in combination with chipotle chiles give this chili a distinct but not overwhelming, smoky flavor. Make sure you start with a chuck roast that is at least three inches thick. The grilling is meant to flavor the meat by searing the surface and smoking it lightly, not to cook it.
Serves 6
Beef Rub
4 medium cloves garlic
2 teaspoons table salt
1 beef chuck roast (4-pounds)
2 - 3 tablespoons New Mexico chili powder
Chili
3 tablespoons ancho chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 1/2 ounce), toasted and ground (see illustrations below)
3 tablespoons New Mexico chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 3/4 ounce), toasted and ground
2 tablespoons cumin seeds , toasted in a small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 4 minutes, and ground
2 teaspoons dried oregano , preferably Mexican
1/2 cup water
8 ounces bacon (7 or 8 slices), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 medium onion , minced (about 1 cup)
5 cloves garlic , minced (about 1 cup)
5 chipotle chiles en adobo , minced
1 cup crushed tomatoes (canned) or plain tomato sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice from 1 medium lime
5 tablespoons masa harina or 3 tablespoons cornstarch
Table salt and ground black pepper
1. To Prepare Meat: Puree garlic cloves with salt. Rub intact chuck roast with puree, and sprinkle evenly with New Mexico chili powder; cover and set aside. Meanwhile, build hot fire. When you can hold your hand 5 inches above grill surface for no more than 3 seconds, spread hot coals to area about the size of roast. Open bottom grill vents, scatter one cup soaked mesquite or hickory wood chips over hot coals, and set grill rack in place. Grill roast over hot coals, opening lid vents three-quarters of the way and covering so that vents are opposite bottom vents to draw smoke through and around roast. Sear meat until all sides are dark and richly colored, about 12 minutes per side. Remove roast to bowl; when cool to the touch, trim and cut into 1-inch cubes, reserving juices.
2. For Chili: Mix chili powders, cumin, and oregano in small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup water to form thick paste; set aside.
3. Fry bacon in large, heavy soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; pour all but 3 teaspoons fat from pot into small bowl; set aside. Increase heat to medium. Add onion; sauté until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and chipotles; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chili paste; sauté until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved bacon and beef (with juices), crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce, lime juice, and 7 cups water; bring to simmer. Continue to cook at a steady simmer until meat is tender and juices are dark, rich, and starting to thicken, about 2 hours.
4. Mix masa harina with 2/3 cup water (or cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl to form smooth paste. Increase heat to medium; stir in paste and simmer until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately, or preferably, cool slightly, cover, and refrigerate overnight or for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.
STEP BY STEP: Toasting and Preparing the Chiles
1. Dried chile pods toasted in a 350-degree oven for about 6 minutes become fragrant and puffed.
2. When cool enough to handle, remove stems and seeds from the pods, rip them into pieces, and process until powdery, 30 to 45 seconds.
Jack@DrofBBQ.com