Memphis Barbecue, Revisited

Late last year, I made a barbecue pilgrimage to Memphis. Because it was a holiday weekend, a lot of the places I wanted to visit were closed. Last week, I had a chance to get back to the Memphis area and pick off some of the remaining joints I wanted to hit. A full report of the trip (with photos) can be found at the link below, but here's the rough sketch:

(1) Craig's Bar-B-Q, DeValls Bluff, AR. Small joint. Divided dining room and separate entrances, harkening back to the bad ole days. Ordered ribs. Meat was ultra-tender, but not mushy. Bark was a bit degraded from storage and reheating. Mild, but detectable, smoke flavor. Good ribs. Also got an excellent chocolate pie from the "Pie Shop" across the street. Terrific crust, very good filling, and a dense, not-too-sweet meringue.

(2) Bar-B-Q Shop, Memphis, TN (on Madison). After multiple recommendations, I was eager to try this one. Got a half slab of dry ribs and a pulled pork sandwich. The ribs were very tender (parboiled?), but not to a major fault. Little smokiness, but the pleasant dry rub gave them a flavor boost. Pretty good ribs, but I didn't think they were exceptional. The sandwich (pictured below) made a bigger impression. The pork wasn't stellar, but the Texas toast was a nice twist. And the slaw--crisp, fresh-tasting, and with a better rounded flavor than most--really elevated it. The mildly mustard-based sauce wasn't laid on too thick. A fine sandwich.

(3) Payne's, Memphis, TN (on Lamar). I went here on the prior trip and the sandwich knocked me off me feet and flat on my back. Worried that I might be romanticizing the memory, I decided to go back, so I'd have a better basis for comparison with the other sandwiches I was having on this trip. Once again, off my feet, on my back. Toasted bun, great pork loaded with crispy browned bits, an excellent sauce, and that sweet neon yellow slaw. I could eat one of these every day. Picked up a fried pie (apple), too. Light, very flaky crust. Sweet filling, but lower in quantity, making for a good balance between pastry and apple filling.

(4) A&R Bar-B-Que, Memphis, TN (on Elvis Presley). This was another one that had been recommended by some knowledgeable locals, particularly for the sandwich and fried pies. The chopped pork was a saucy, sloppy mess, but was very tasty. Pretty good pork flavor, with a fair amount of browned bits. The slaw was overwhelmed by the sauce, offering more texture and temperature contrast. It was oversauced; but, since the sauce tasted pretty good, that wasn't a major problem. In all, a very good sandwich (though very different in style from, say, Bar-B-Q Shop's). They were out of fried pies, the first day I went, so I had to make a repeat visit. The fried pie (apple) was outstanding. The sugar-dusted pastry was crisp, greaseless, and not a bit soggy. Filling was abundant, but not overly sweet. I only wish I could have bought it straight out of the deep frier and with a scoop of good vanilla ice cream on top.

(5) Charlie Vergos' Rendezvous, Memphis, TN (on 2nd St.). Rendezvous draws plenty of red flags from knowledgeable locals. And, after getting burned at Corky's (which I was warned against) on my last trip, I was fearful going in. I was worried about the half slab of dried ribs I ordered, but needn't have been. They were actually quite good. Firm in texture, but not tough or dry. Little smokiness, but a pretty tasty dry rub. This was nowhere near the disaster I was expecting. I may have gotten lucky. The sandwich was also pretty good. Decent pork. A safely pleasant sauce. The slaw (served on the side) didn't add anything, I didn't think. In the balance, it was a pretty good sandwich.

(6) Jim Neely's Interstate Bar-B-Q, Memphis, TN (on S. 3rd St.). Here's another one the locals warn against. Luck may have favored me at Rendezvous, but she failed me at Interstate. The half slab of ribs was atrocious--mushy in texture, greasy, and with a gummy exterior coated in a thick, cloying, tomatoey sauce reminiscent of jarred spaghetti sauce. Ugh. The sandwich wasn't much better. The pork was bland and inoffensive. But the slaw, placed under the sandwich, was almost impossible to taste because of the pint of that sorry, gloppy sauce that was drenching the whole affair. Won't be back.

(7) Central BBQ, Memphis, TN (on Central). I didn't want to close the trip with such a poor experience, so I headed over to Central BBQ, where I got some excellent ribs on my prior trip. Got a full slab of wet ones, plus some barbecue potato chips. Though the ribs weren't quite as good this time (a bit too tender and with some burnt sugar spots in places), they were still easily the best of the trip.

Great town and some fine barbecue.

Scott
(The report on this visit is here:
http://www.dallasfood.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=35 .)

(The report on the prior visit is here:
http://www.dallasfood.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=15 .)

Good Report Scott, Thanks. I wish you could have stopped at Hays SmokeHouse about 100 miles east of downtown Memphis...but understand the limitations of any 'tour'. Keep these reports coming in !

Beautiful pics in that linked page.....

Scott DFW: I really enjoyed your pics and posting on the web site. It appears that you combined a birding trip along with a BBQ trip. Good choice. I would leave Knoxville immediately if I had a chance to view the Ivory Bill. I have picked up some rare ones in the times past but never even close to the category of the Ivory Bill.

I agree with you on Interstate BBQ. I think they use to be good but the last time I was there, I had the same experience as you.

I agree with The Mayor regarding your inability to visit Hays Smokehouse in Lexington, TN.

I have birded in all 50 states, all of Canada, all of Western Europe, Central American and most of South America. I would delete most of my count of 750 birds to get the Ivory Bill

Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN

Just want to join in with everybody above and say, "terrific report!" Anytime you want some company on a future que road trip be sure to give a shout.

QFan
Bonita Springs, FL

Scott,

How would you narrow down your list for a quick "drive-by" (1-2 places)? In two weeks we're zooming eastward from DFW!

quote:

How would you narrow down your list for a quick "drive-by" (1-2 places)? In two weeks we're zooming eastward from DFW!

My top pick would be Payne's on Lamar for a chopped pork sandwich. (Note: They offer mild and hot sauces. Standing alone, I prefer the mild. However, Payne's unique slaw has a sweetness that is balanced out better by the hot sauce.) Central BBQ's ribs (wet or dry, whichever is your preference) would come in second. The two places are just a little over a mile apart, so hitting both shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck!

Scott

PS And thanks for the kind words, everyone.

quote:

Originally posted by Scott -- DFW

PS And thanks for the kind words, everyone.

And add my vote!

---Rick, former Memphian

Check this link: http://www.commercialappeal.com/mca/food/article/0,1426,MCA_495_3766235,00.html

I have not been to the original Neely's in Memphis. But the one here in Nashville sure is good. If you find yourself east of Memphis follow Sundancer's advice and try Hay's Smokehouse. It is good and the portions are LARGE!

This whole thread is depressing me. I was supposed to be in Memphis this week and the trip got postponed -- and this week is the start of memphis in May.

quote:

Check this link: http://www.commercialappeal.com/mca/food/article/0,1426,MCA_495_3766235,00.html

Yeah, I read that this morning. I love this bit:

quote:

"Can you tell the difference between meat cooked on a pit and meat cooked in a Southern Pride cooker? Some people might be able to," said Mellor. "It's a little bit like wine. Not everyone can tell the difference between a full-bodied red from California and one from Italy or France."

This is preposterous. Of course you can tell the difference. It doesn't take a highly refined palate to detect smoke. The thing is, no barbecue joint I've been to in Memphis exclusively uses smoke from wood. Many use gas as the primary heat. And even the gasless ones tend to use charcoal (which doesn't release smoke like burning wood) or, sometimes, a blend of charcoal with a little wood (usually hickory). As a consequence, barbecue in Memphis is not meaningfully smoky. That doesn't mean it can't be good. Some people (myself not included) may even prefer a less smoky style of barbecue. But there is a difference--recognizable to any person with a tongue--between barbecue from a gas oven and that from a wood-fueled pit.

Scott

Scott, what The Mayor and the Sundancer has been trying to tell you that Hays Smokehouse uses hickory exclusively. He burns down about a thousand pounds of dried hickory and takes the coals and places them under his own design of a smoker. It is huge and he places the coals underneath and smokes his whole hog and ribs for better than 18 hours. It is a auto rotartaring device that constantly keeps the pork in contact with the smoke. He steam cleans it every two weeks to keep the bitter taste of the smoke out of the pork. Do yourself a favor and enjoy one of the best BBQ places in the USA.

We guarantee it.

Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN

quote:

Originally posted by Scott -- DFW

quote:

How would you narrow down your list for a quick "drive-by" (1-2 places)? In two weeks we're zooming eastward from DFW!

My top pick would be Payne's on Lamar for a chopped pork sandwich. (Note: They offer mild and hot sauces. Standing alone, I prefer the mild. However, Payne's unique slaw has a sweetness that is balanced out better by the hot sauce.) Central BBQ's ribs (wet or dry, whichever is your preference) would come in second. The two places are just a little over a mile apart, so hitting both shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck!

Scott

PS And thanks for the kind words, everyone.

I second the nomination on Payne's. Not only was the Pork BBQ Sandwich Freakin Amazing, but the BBQ Beans were also Top Notch. Payne's definetely landed in the Top 5 eateries of my Ballpark Trip last month!

The Neely's in Nashville definitely uses hickory to smoke its meats. When I eat lunch there I can smell it in my clothes the rest of the day. It's delightful!

Another outstanding report Scott. I just wish you would post more frequently. Next roadtrip, how about giving us a heads up, so we can suggest a few places too. Ones that we may have heard about, and ones where we would appreciate a review from someone with discerning taste buds, and the ability to write well.

Kudos on the excellent review, Scott!!

We ate at Neely's Interstate BBQ yesterday in Memphis.

I had the chopped pork sandwich with beans. My bud had the ribs with cole slaw and beans.

The good news: We liked the cole slaw.

The bad news: We liked the cole slaw. This is a BBQ joint and if the highlight is the sides then there is a problem.

The meats were OK. We could not find any evidence of a "rub" being used. It seemed like the product consists of smoked meat covered in a tomato based sauce. The sauce was a disappointment. You don't get the option of putting it on yourself. It comes on the food. The BBQ beans were good and bad. There was a decent sort of flavor there but the temperature was too cool.

The sandwich came with slaw in the sandwich. I normally don't get into this sort of sandwich but as the slaw came across as the most interesting thing on my plate I didn't mind in this instance.

A lot of locals told us this was the place. If you've lived a sheltered life and you're not a BBQ loving freak of nature then you'd probably like it. I think a BBQ afficianado would find it lame.

In any event, the reputation for this place is very, very inflated because at best it's an average BBQ joint.

I still contend that the best meal you can get at a Memphis q joint is the bbq shrimp at Gridley's. At one time there were five or so Gridley's around town, but there's only one left, on the east side.
I also agree that the Neely's in Nashville is better than the Interstate.

quote:

Originally posted by Poverty Pete

I still contend that the best meal you can get at a Memphis q joint is the bbq shrimp at Gridley's. At one time there were five or so Gridley's around town, but there's only one left, on the east side.
I also agree that the Neely's in Nashville is better than the Interstate.

Poverty Pete,

I believe all the Gridley's are gone. The "one" that was supposed to be left, was no longer in existence when I went on my trip last month.

Wanderer, that is indeed a shame. The Mayor, Janet and I had shrimp and ribs there about three months ago, and it was every bit as good as my first visit back in the early 80's.

Really late to the party, I know, but I figured I'd make a correction and a comment.

First: Unless they're just keeping the sign up in prime real estate for kicks, the Gridley's on Stage in Bartlett is still open for business. Not sure, as I'm not a huge fan, but I drive by fairly regularly.

Second: The only two places that I know of in Memphis that used wood exclusively aren't around anymore. Willingham's went through a couple of different incarnations after a fire, and now just sells smokers via the intarweb. J.C.Hardaway made the finest sandwich known to man at the Big S Grill from shoulders cooked over oak and hickory on a 55 gallon drum pit, but he passed away some years back and his replacement didn't quite have the hang of it when I visited last (J.C. was still alive at the time, but he'd had some complications from diabetes that he never quite recovered from as I understand.) For that reason, I'd recommend a time machine for your third visit.