Helpful ReplyMobile kitchen build info

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THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/15 20:10:27 (permalink)
see that's the thing here in Baltimore County. We don't have to have any fire inspections or anything like that. Just an HD inspection, pass and they set us loose. I'm not scrimping on the hoses, I just thought it would be easier to use short hoses since they were flexible.

 Should I be concerned about my fittings coming loose with all the driving and travel conditions ? or is that something I shouldn't be concerned about ?
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/15 20:15:52 (permalink)
Just out of curiosity, can't I just connect a regular propane hose to the gas pipe ?

Yes but finding the fittings can be difficult.
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/15 20:20:27 (permalink)
localnet

And now I have a question regarding fire safety and Ansul systems. Who is permitted to install these systems? I am looking at $2200 for such a system installed for a 4' exhaust hood. I can pick up a like new unit on CraigsList, with a 6' hood for $625? Is there some mystery here for some nipple, fire bottle, switch box and nozzles? What gives? Is this something I could do with the right tools and pass muster on inspection? or do I need an authorized installer? What do you think? The wife says let em do it for the money, because she is worried regarding insurance. Help me out.

Mike


It just like the FAQ said you need to speak to your local inspector or inspectors to find out what will work in your area. If you need to have a system installed chances are you'll need a licensed guy to do the job. But that' doesn't mean take the first bid. Most people around here install the hood themselves and get a Ansul System expert to do the rest so they don't get red tagged by the fire department.

Edit to add: I bought all used parts for my Ansul system, a very clean used hood, and took it all to an Ansul Dealer and said how much to install this? He charged me $500.00. But the rate depends on how many nozzles you need and that is based on the type of equipment you have in your kitchen or under the hood. Start looking for a resturant going out of business auction in your area. You just have to look the system over and see when it was last inspected and is it a wet or dry system and which is required in your area. But I think everyone has to have a wet system now.

To keep from discharging the system (you don't want to do that) be careful but just take the cover off the box and remove the small canister, that fires the CO2. If you buy a used system be prepared to clean it several times in order to get it ready to install.
post edited by Dr of BBQ - 2010/03/15 20:43:44
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/15 20:28:24 (permalink)
I'm headed to Lowes now to buy the pipe, I'm gonna ask them bout the fittings, Will keep ya posted.... OH BOY HERE WE GO !!!!!
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/15 20:50:52 (permalink)
Look at this although the price is way high. And shown in the picture is a gas valve although the seller said it's not included. Geez But it is what most fire departments require an auto shutoff gas valve, a pull station and the suppression system.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-I...on?hash=item3357a0e7ce
lornaschinske
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/15 22:30:14 (permalink)
I take it you are asking about the flexible rubber type hoses.  You can use those but you will need to inspect them at least once a year.  Some break down quickly, others don't.  You can also have custom ones built by your local propane gas dealer.  They don't cost much and the hoses that Bearman Propane in Chattanooga used was much better material than the "store" bought one I had on our pop-up.  And they still looked new 8 years later when we sold the pop-up.
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/16 03:43:41 (permalink)
Well, The guy at Lowes that I normally run into told me, I should use 3/4 inch iron, and that I would need a gas flex line that has an adapter with the tube that goes down to 1/2 inch ( which apparently I need b/c of the flex line, and they don't sell them seperately. )  Which runs about $30, and I need 2 for now. One for the cooker & water heater.

He also told me that I would want to coat the pipes in rustoleum before installing them so that they don't rust up, ( apparently iron rusts real quick) 

So it's 3:42 am and I just got done coating a 6ft pipe, a 2ft pipe, 3ft pipe, and an ass load of fittings and 1-2-3" pipes. And I'm covered in paint and it isn't coming off !!!!  LOL
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/16 09:10:02 (permalink)
Good Job although it would take a long time for black iron pipe to leak from rust it will suffer surface rust quickly. But your black iron pipe will be easier to keep clean with a coat of good paint. Again good job.
localnet
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/16 09:57:13 (permalink)
Dr of BBQ

Look at this although the price is way high. And shown in the picture is a gas valve although the seller said it's not included. Geez But it is what most fire departments require an auto shutoff gas valve, a pull station and the suppression system.





From the looks of it, that is the system I am looking at. I called a buddy of mine that used to build out commercial kitchens, he told me let the pros do it, mainly for the insurance issues. Then the wife chimed in again, just let them do the install... 

I think I will just let them handle it, should be ordering the trailer this week. And then on to the real important stuff, location, location, location... Along with getting the licensing process started. So far so good, clearing hurtles on a daily basis. Now in good with my neighboring local zoning chief, he gave me the OK to work his township and I have the OK in my township. 

Mike
post edited by localnet - 2010/03/16 09:59:16
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/16 12:06:03 (permalink)
yeah, some things should be left to the pro's... especially a fire suppressent system. everything else is a confidence call i guess.

Thanks DR. I'll try and get some pics of the pipe rough in today and the serving window as well. I forgot what thread I was talking about my window... lol

I'm looking  under the trailer today and  the frame is pretty much right down to the bottom of the trailer.  I'm going to hang a pipe and see how it looks. I don't know if I am comfortable with it hanging lower than the bottom of the trailer.
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/16 19:47:38 (permalink)
 Wow what a beautiful day to be on my back all day LOL. Main gas lines are in, hands are permanently stained black,  For the most part they are in, I have to connect the T-fitting for the run from the tanks, but here are two pictures. Had to make a larger hole for the front run, Any suggestions on what to use to plug or insulate it ? I was going to use the spray foam after sliding a piece of 3/4 inch wood zapped up with some screws just to play it safe.








It is a dry run, I plan on leaving it that way until the equipment comes and then I will tighten everything down and test it.


post edited by THE WILD DOG - 2010/03/16 19:49:42
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/16 22:12:01 (permalink)
It looks good.

The foam will fill your hole but if you do ENOUGH searches on line you'll find a proper plug. The choice is yours the foam is good stuff, but a pain in the ass to clean up and I find it hard to control. It always seems to go everywhere but where I really want it.

And then of course you use a little bit and the can is wasted because the line is clogged. But it's fast, easy, and relative inexpensive.

When I just reread your post as I understand it are you going to drill a smaller hole in a 3/4 inch piece of plywood and lay it on your floor and foam from the bottom? If so that will work. You don't even have to take the fittings apart just drill the hole with a hole saw and and then use any saw to cut the hole in half so you can slide it over the excess area. But try and find something (grease, saran rap) anything that the foam won't stick to and cover the bottom of the plywood, then when you remove the plywood block, the foam will dry and not stick to or smear as you remove the plywood.

Geeze even I find that sentence hard to understand.

Jack
KonaErnie
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/16 23:50:33 (permalink)
Wild Dog....Check at Lowe's for a piece of foam insulation made for 3/4" pipe. Cut it to length flush with the bottom of the interior floor , slide it over the pipe before you screw down the gas valve and finish covering the hole with a piece of plywood as you suggested.  Looking good so far.

Foam insulation
post edited by KonaErnie - 2010/03/17 00:02:09
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/17 18:42:49 (permalink)
floor drain, drains thru the bottom of the trailer to a shut off valve under the fender. I will post that pic as I go. Started gluing the hopper together.


chefbuba
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/17 19:26:56 (permalink)
Dog...Is the small pipe your waste tank drain?  If so, that sucker will clog up real quick if your doing anything other than hand washing. The smallest bits of food will plug that thing in a heart beat. When I'm stationary, my 3" waste is choked down to a 3/4" hose to my 160 gal outside holding... That thing gets clogged up a couple of times a week.... No big deal for me to unclog though... You have 2 90's in that thing....Just thinking out loud here...
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/17 19:34:45 (permalink)
This has been the best topic posted on roadfood in a long time. This should help alot of people.
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/17 19:54:40 (permalink)
chefbuba

Dog...Is the small pipe your waste tank drain?  If so, that sucker will clog up real quick if your doing anything other than hand washing. The smallest bits of food will plug that thing in a heart beat. When I'm stationary, my 3" waste is choked down to a 3/4" hose to my 160 gal outside holding... That thing gets clogged up a couple of times a week.... No big deal for me to unclog though... You have 2 90's in that thing....Just thinking out loud here...


What are your thoughts if I put screens in my drain ?  I was thinking of doing that to begin with.  The reason for the 90's is because the gas pipe is directly under the first 90 .  The drain plug on the left side of the tanks line right up with the gas inlet for the water tank. I don't have much room back in there. I still have to put in my 12 volt battery for my water pump.

She's gonna be all full up by the end of the week. Once I get the battery I'm going to start gluing everything in place, Still have to find a " U " brace for the hopper to keep it in place. ( for the most part it's not budging but because I'm going to be in transit, I'm playing it safe ) Still waiting on getting the flex pipe.

I'm seeing some issues already with the 3/4 black iron pipe that leads to the propane. I need to find a nipple that I can attach to that to hook my hose up to. I'm hitting a propane shop next week for a solution. I'm hoping the duel stage regulator will clear it up. I'm thinking that I may have to downgrade the tank pipe down to 1/2 and then find a 1/2" to 3/4 flange or fitting.
post edited by THE WILD DOG - 2010/03/17 19:57:46
AZdog
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/18 06:17:07 (permalink)
Not sure if it will help you at this juncture, but I had a 2" union "plastic welded" into the bottom of my waste tank.  Same type of tank as yours: HDPE. I then cut the hole in the bottom of my trailer, attached a 90 degree elbow to shoot it out to the side, then attached a Valterra Bladex valve to it.  It works like a champ, and with the 2" whole being directly in the bottom of the tank - it drains very quickly.

The union is a screw type - so if needed, I can unscrew the pipes and stick a hose up there and rinse the whole thing out.
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/18 10:12:55 (permalink)
AZdog

The union is a screw type - so if needed, I can unscrew the pipes and stick a hose up there and rinse the whole thing out.



Guys you should have a shut off right at the tank. No matter how careful you are in what goes down your sink drain, the Chef is correct your going to get the drain line clogged. So put a "T" straight out of your tank the points up.It should be tall enough that what ever volume of waste water remains in your tank will equal out with the pressure in the "T". Then put a standard garden hose PVC threaded fitting and finally a screw cap on the top of the "T". After that you should have a valve that can open or close your entire waste water line.

Then if you get a clog just inside the tank (where I get them) you can shut off the valve and unscrew the cap on the "T" and run water from a hose to unclog the tank.

Or if your clogged futher down stream leave the valve open and again use the preasure from a standard water hose to force out the debris.

Jack

wish I could draw this out for you to make it simpler to understand.
chefbuba
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/18 10:32:11 (permalink)
I'm trying to understand this... I'm a little foggy this morning, and on my first cup of coffee... Bottom line is that waste settles to the bottom of the tank, kind of a sludge.. that's what your going to have a problem with clogging that small drain line. And where your at when its cold out.. grease will form in big clumps....then your really screwed.
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/18 12:13:29 (permalink)
NOW you tell me ....  LOL I already drilled my hole....  I'm gonna have to sit here and think now... and it's too early to think. It's only a 1/2 inch pipe...   Back is achey today, Might just finish spraying the inside woods today & pick up my battery & call it an early day.

Just got off the phone with my HD, she said I had to mouse proof the holes and to use this kind of plate for the inside. 


  My inspection is free, but the permit is only $100.  The prev rep a few months ago wanted to charge me $150 plan review, & $275 for the permit. 

She also gave me place to go to check out for a decent priced sheet metal fabricator to build me a hood    

I am going to pass this along to TMD as well & hopes it saves him some $$$
post edited by THE WILD DOG - 2010/03/18 12:15:59
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/18 13:00:07 (permalink)
Chef,
Let me try and lay this out again:

Come out of your tank with what ever size line you want. Lets say 2 inch.

Then 3 inches out or so place a 2" T pointing straight up with a reducer in the up side so you can run a 1 inch stack equal to the height of your waste water tank. At that height add a PVC fitting to reduce the PVC to the size that you can attach a garden hose to.

Then 2 inches out of your T you need a 2 inch shut off valve.

Then run the 2 inch line another 2 or 3 inches and another T ending with a hose fitting.

What your building is a way to blow out the exit line of your tank, and a way to shut off the tank in case you get the line stopped up between your tank and your waste water exit. You can isolate the tank or the entire line.

If your tank is getting full of sludge go back in this thread and read the post about water softener and bleach to prohibit that, I think Lorna posted it. I have not tried it but it made sense.
http://www.newrver.com/publish/holdingtank.shtml

I cut a hole in my waste water tank so I can use my hangup shop vac to suck junk out of my tank
post edited by Dr of BBQ - 2010/03/19 07:43:24
AZdog
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/18 23:25:02 (permalink)
The top is the under pan of my trailer. The pin that you see is part of the removable tongue. The hole is cut, and I have it attached to a union that was plastic welded into the tank.  The left side is the side of my trailer, which terminates at the Bladex valve.

The waste tank only has this one elbow in it.  If anything clogs that, and lords knows how anything ever would, because all the sinks have built in mesh drain strainers, I would just unscrew the Bladex valve and run a hose up it. It is also how I can spray down the inside of the tank to remove grime etc.  The length of the horizontal pipe is about 10".

The plastic welding cost about $50 but included the union.





This is the Valterra valve on the side of the trailer.  Simple operation, and I can attach a garden hose to it to get some length on draining it if needed.


post edited by AZdog - 2010/03/18 23:32:00
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/18 23:51:08 (permalink)
I forgot to mention today when talking to my HD that she told me that I can go up to any sanitation sewer drain & release my waste water into it. Also that I don't need to get inspected by fire or plumber.

I found this interesting though, If I offer a table and chairs,  I have to have a toilet. Not that I was going to, just thought that was interesting.
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/19 00:11:00 (permalink)
"I found this interesting though, If I offer a table and chairs,  I have to have a toilet. Not that I was going to, just thought that was interesting.

Our health department took my chairs for the same reason. That's stupid thinking on their part. Just because you feed someone a sandwich doesn't mean they need to run to the bathroom. Or hopefully not. LOL
Jack
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/19 00:17:46 (permalink)
AZdog

The top is the under pan of my trailer. The pin that you see is part of the removable tongue. The hole is cut, and I have it attached to a union that was plastic welded into the tank.  The left side is the side of my trailer, which terminates at the Bladex valve.

The waste tank only has this one elbow in it.  If anything clogs that, and lords knows how anything ever would, because all the sinks have built in mesh drain strainers, I would just unscrew the Bladex valve and run a hose up it. It is also how I can spray down the inside of the tank to remove grime etc.  The length of the horizontal pipe is about 10".

The plastic welding cost about $50 but included the union.





This is the Valterra valve on the side of the trailer.  Simple operation, and I can attach a garden hose to it to get some length on draining it if needed.




You have worked very hard on your project and any good thinking person has to respect that. And if you decide to go a different way than those suggested that's cool. In 3 months from now you need to revive this thread and tell future readers what you'd change and how you'd change it. Time and practice is the ultimate test for your ideas and your build.
post edited by Dr of BBQ - 2010/03/19 08:42:47
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/20 12:34:33 (permalink)
Well sinks & counter top trim have been caulked with the proper stuff. Used my noggin on the counter tops, I was petrified that I was going to drill thru them that I removed the c-channel trim on the front of them and lifted the FRP up and shot screws thru the base plywood into the studs below. Viola it worked great. Actually started building my shelf unit as well to house my buns and packs of soda. Still some tweeking on that to do, Kinda mad at myself that I shot a screw thru the wall of it, but should be able to cover it with trim anyways.

I have a pic or two of it, but you'll get a better idea of what I want to do once the shelves are in. I plan on having the back part of the shelf a notch or two lower so that it sits at a downward angle so nothing falls out during transit. The one pic I do have I don't like so I will have to take more pics of it.

Making my final " materials to buy " list which consist of 5 items

1. (1) FRP panel ( cooking counter top)
2. (2) 3/4 angle irons ( 1 for cooking top, 1 for server base 6ft run)
3. (3) 1 can of spray paint
4. (1) 1/2 C-channel ( for server window screen)
5. (1) hardboard ( white) for back of shelves

Should be buying my water heater on Tuesday & the only other thing I have to buy really that is expensive is my cooker. ($330 with shipping )

I  am going to shoot the bottom c-channel into the serving counter and bond the other channel to the top of the serving window for the screen track. It actually works out great. perfect width.

Which brings me to my next question. What is the best thing to use to bond aluminum to aluminum ?
AZdog
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/21 07:28:39 (permalink)
Which brings me to my next question. What is the best thing to use to bond aluminum to aluminum ?

JB-weld worked well for me.
post edited by AZdog - 2010/03/21 07:29:50
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/25 23:42:10 (permalink)
i put in the switch today for the water pump... nothing special to report, water heater comes in Friday, I've started gluing everything, will post pics when done that project tomorrow. 

I actually found a 12volt exhaust fan that kicks out 3000 CFM. Found it on ebay, guy has multi-auctions for them, if anyone is looking for something similar.

http://cgi.ebay.com/12-V-..._0?hash=item2eabdc8a66

Switch.LOL
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Re:Mobile kitchen build info 2010/03/26 11:40:29 (permalink)
AZdog

Which brings me to my next question. What is the best thing to use to bond aluminum to aluminum ?

We used 3MVHB double stick tape (the one they use to bond ambulance side panels to the frame) and PL adhesive that we bought at Lowes.  If you use the PL (comes in a cartridge like caulking tubes), read the labels.  There are so many PL adhesives for different things it can be mind boggling.  If yo use SikaFLex, watch the expiration dates.  I had one with a month left on the expiration but I like to have never got it out of the tube.  It's why we tend to use PL... conforms to the same ASTI spec's.

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