Mobile kitchen build info

Guys I would suggest that you don't buy a water tank from an RV dealer they are way to expensive. Just go to ebay and check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...name=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I have bought three of these and they are the same tank but much less expensive.

Dr of BBQ


Guys I would suggest that you don't buy a water tank from an RV dealer they are way to expensive. Just go to ebay and check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...name=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I have bought three of these and they are the same tank but much less expensive.

Got both of my tanks from ebay already....

I'm not sure how much hood length you guys will need because I don't know your equipment list nor what your cooking. But I'd suggest again that you check out Ebay and take a minute and call Ventilation Dirrect. They have items on Ebay but you can always get a much better price if you call them on the phone. I have posted here on RF about them and my unit came from them.

I know you guys are thinking a 12 volt system and I'm not sure why but even if you don't run a charbroiler or flattop grill a really good exhaust system is worth it's weight in gold. My exhaust fan runs from early spring to late fall just to cool the trailer. It drops the interior temp a bunch pulling air through two screened windows and out the roof.

There are a bunch of exhaust hoods on ebay and you also need to search exhaust vent.

Here is an example http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5...on?hash=item5ad6a7f2ab

And I have bought some used equipment from this company, but I'd just about bet (both companies are close to each other)  they are dealing with Ventilation Direct and just having them drop ship what ever you buy.

A 12 volt system may get you past your local HD but are you going to be able to work when it's really hot outside in midsummer and you have a bunch of heat producing equipment running?

And I understand (short on money) but there are places and times to cut and some times you just have to spend the bucks.

I also understand doing what you can to get the doors open and doing a rebuild after you get some money rolling in. LOL

Good luck on your projects.

Jack

PS if you guys call Tom Nudo at Prime Panels, tell him I referred you, it may get you a slightly better price or it may not but it's worth a try.

Dr of BBQ


Guys I would suggest that you don't buy a water tank from an RV dealer they are way to expensive. Just go to ebay and check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...name=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I have bought three of these and they are the same tank but much less expensive.

DR. I hate to point this out but they ARE RV dealers.  Just not Camping World.  Camping World always has great pics and the highest prices.  That's why we buy the Presidents Club membership when making a big purchase. We actually bought our water heater from a Camping World while in GA... needed it that day since the circa 1977 original water heater tank started leaking and they had the heater in stock.  We just often look and compare then buy elsewhere.    Most seasoned RVers know to look at their website then shop around.  Ronthebusnut usually has the best price. but only if he has it in stock. he lists a 54 gal tank for $45 but out of stock.  Shipping for the tank is $25 to 35.    I have quite a list of places to buy mobile "stuff" that ranges from RV outfits to Marine stores (I love a West Marine store... there's one about a mile or so from me) and always check eBay for pricing.  Gotta watch out for those shipping charges.  For anyone who lives near Elkhart IN area, they have lots of RV surplus places (most do not have websites) and you can buy tanks and 12VDC stuff there really cheap.

I don't care what you are buying.  Shop around and read up on what you are looking at.  The commercial restaurant equipment industry is a lot like the RV industry.  You have the junk that is high priced for what it is, but lower than the good stuff and then you have the good stuff that is reasonably priced for what it is.  Learn what you are looking at. And then there are stores that aim to get rich off each sale.  Some things you can get by with using the cheaper stuff until you make more $$ or need to use it more often and others you really need to get the good stuff.  We bought our steam pans off ebay, from yard sales and used restaurant equipment stores.  So we have a fairly diverse selection of steam pan brands.  Some of the pans that we paid the least for are the best ones (heavier, holds up better, cleans better).  We bought aluminum spillage pans new.  Cost was the big deal at the time.  We now know that the aluminum pan is okay for the cold table (ice & water only) but the aluminum does not hold up well to the combination of hot water and high mineral water (we keep adding a little cream of tartar to the pan).  For a hot water spillage pan, we would opt for a SS spillage pan.  But we also figured to use the pan for hot for about a year, which it will definitely last a year... it just looks bad. Live and learn.

TMD what size tanks did you get ???

With all due respect, I have been there (in person ) they do not sell RV's. They are right on the river just 1 1/2 hour from my house. I went up there for the 2nd time last Sept.

They sell some trailers in fact a long line of trailers (50 or more) on site, but they are enclosed bike trailers, car haulers, and standard box trailers.

But I never saw a single RV, on the two lots they use nor across the street in the warehouse lot.

Granted they sell a lot of trailer parts and according to what they told me they started out as a small trailer dealer and started handling other parts as an after thought.
Jack

So an RV dealer no I don't think so.

Just got done installing grey water tank on my truck conversion. I got both my fresh water and waste water tank from Plastic Mart who gets them from Ronco. The fitting are where I requested and there were no surprises. Looking at the website Dr suggested, I could have saved myself a hefty amount of money. Oh well...wish I had the site before I ordered. I put a 35 Gallon fresh water tank and a 43 gallon waste water tank in. Shootin for a mid April startup date.
I'll post some pictures when I have a chance.

Chefbuba; I was looking at your pictures that you posted. Is that an 8' hood with standard restaurant equipment under it? I see that the hood extends past the front edge of the equipment. How deep is that hood? Is it a custom hood? I went to Ventilation Direct and their concession hoods are only 22" deep. Not enough for full size equipment. Their full size hoods are too low for my cieling height. What kind of fan do you have for exhaust?
Thanks

Knifeguy,
I have some room to play with according to our local fire department on hood depth, it seems to me it's 6 inches on the front and some on the side, but I don't remember what it was for the side. Are your local rules that rigid that your exhaust hood has to come out beyond your equipment? If so that sucks.

This is from VD web site:

6' long 22" deep x 12" high rear with 3.5" front face
-Sturdy stainless steel construction
-Space saving, compact design uses limited kitchen space
-Hood may underhang equipment by maximum 4.5". Side Clearance is 2"
- 430 SS Where Exposed
- Stainless Steel Baffle Filters Included
- Grease Cup

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Sta...on?hash=item5ad6e85d70




Jack

Jack;
My restrictions are the same as what you say yours are. My hood has to extend 6" further out than the equipment and I need 6" on each end. An 8' hood can only have 7' of equipment under it. The standard range w/ oven and griddle is 31" deep meaning my hood has to be 37" Deep. I really want to use full size equipment and would like to find a hood that is about 37" deep with the 3.5" face.
I did get a quote some time ago from Hoodmart that fits my requirements. $1700 for the 8' hood and prepiped fire supression add $2300. Fires supression has to be mounted by a licensed contractor which would probably be another $1000. Puts me at $5,000. Does this sound like it's in the ballpark? Has anyone dealt with Hoodmart?

knifeguy


Chefbuba; I was looking at your pictures that you posted. Is that an 8' hood with standard restaurant equipment under it? I see that the hood extends past the front edge of the equipment. How deep is that hood? Is it a custom hood? I went to Ventilation Direct and their concession hoods are only 22" deep. Not enough for full size equipment. Their full size hoods are too low for my cieling height. What kind of fan do you have for exhaust?
Thanks

KG.. Custom hood....100x42, it extends out in front of the equipment, and about 6" on either side..Roof mount fan.
 
Don't know off the top of my head where the hood came from, but it has the mfgrs sticker on it, if you want, I'll get that info tomorrow.

Rich,
You mistook what I was trying to point out, or I just didn't do a very good job of explaining it. LOL Read this line from the Ventilation Direct web site


-Hood may underhang equipment by maximum 4.5".
Side Clearance is 2"

I think that's Standard for the entire country. I'm not positive on that but I'd give my fire inspector a call and double check.

Here's why I say that, if your hood had to extend 6 inches past the front of your equipment and it has to be no further than (what ever the height measurement is ) above your equipment every tall cook in the country would be banging their head on the front of the hood all day.

I'm pretty sure there is a limit on the hood height to top of equipment, again not sure if that's very clear.

Do you see what I mean?

Jack

here's some imfo from VD web site and their phone number is 1.866.433.8335

Ok the min is 36 inches and the max is 47 inches above your equipment top

And Thatsmydawg will find this interesting:

Clearance Reduction Methods
Clearance reduction methods have been evaluated and tested and are certified by ETL. The method of test was derived from UL 710 with temperature criteria taken from appropriate standards.

Clearance Reduction Methods:Back & Front Clearance Reduction Options End Clearance Reduction Options

Top Clearance Reduction Options 1 inch thick min. layer of insulation of type Owens Corning Type 475 or Johns Manville Type 475 or listed kitchen exhaust duct insulation.

1 inch thick min. insulated backsplash. Insulation of type listed above.

Back Return (BR) supply plenum with 1 inch thick min. insulation of type listed above.

To comply with the ETL certification, the cooking appliance must be located:At least 6 inches from the rear wall.
At least 24 inches below the bottom edge of the hood.
Cooking surface must not exceed temperatures above 700°F.

The hood may be installed with a 3 inch clearance to limited combustible materials per NFPA96 if constructed in one of the following methods:

3 inch factory installed rear un-insulated standoff.
3 inch factory installed top wrapper or enclosure panel system.
3 inch factory installed end standoff

Not sure if any of this is going to answer your question BUT if I were you I'd call VD tomorrow and talk to them. They will give you enough information that you'll know exactly what to ask your local fire department inspector.

I may not have mentioned but I always planned to have a complete hood system installed. Issue is that when I add in the fire suppression that kicks it up another $1,500 to $2,000 or more. I may end up not adding my grill until I get the kitchen up and running and making money, if I don't have the grill I don't need the suppression. Get some loot coming in and then add the grill and suppression system. Nothing is final one way or another but just talking/typing to hear/see my thoughts..We will see..


On another note, what the heck kinda plug is this? I was going to plug up my warmer and test it and was like huh? So I guess I need a special adapter? Thoughts...
                           

 

                                                                        Found this insulation, think this will work in the truck?

 

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Here is a neat site that may help a lot of people

http://www.allexperts.com..Food-Service-Equipment/

TMD,

 Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

DR BBQ,  was that bold really necessary ?  JEEZ... now i've got to uncross my eyes

Dr of BBQ

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Ok, I will pick one up today, never saw one of those before. Funny thing I would have expected my prep table to have a strange plug because it's so much bigger than the warmer but it doesn't, cool.

THE WILD DOG

TMD what size tanks did you get ???

I did not get extra large tanks at this point, got a 20 + 25 gal

Dr of BBQ

Here is a neat site that may help a lot of people
http://www.allexperts.com..Food-Service-Equipment/

Gonna take a look this detail when I get back from and early morning meeting.

THE WILD DOG

TMD,
Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

I am speaking with the HD this morning at 9:00. It is not an HD thing though, it is a fire dept thing. The papers I have from the HD specify that the fire system is needed if you are using grill, charbroilers, fryers, etc. I will check with them to see if I am included because my items are small but I am looking at the paper now and it says it is required. Also, it says it's for the whole state not just my county. "State guidelines for hoods", etc. When I get back I will let you know what they told me. Stay tuned.

 

Dr of BBQ

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Ok, I will pick one up today, never saw one of those before. Funny thing I would have expected my prep table to have a strange plug because it's so much bigger than the warmer but it doesn't, cool.
 
It's not a strange plug if the warmer is 220 volts.
Check the name plate on the warmer.

Ice Cream Man

Dr of BBQ

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Ok, I will pick one up today, never saw one of those before. Funny thing I would have expected my prep table to have a strange plug because it's so much bigger than the warmer but it doesn't, cool.
 
It's not a strange plug if the warmer is 220 volts.
Check the name plate on the warmer.

No, no that's not what I was saying. I was saying it's strange to me because i never saw one of those plugs before. I know it is whats needed for that unit. it just looks funny to me having only seen the ones for a normal plug. Kinda reminds me of the plug for the washing machine.

Can't look at the tag because it's warm from scrubbing or what ever. I will grab the adapter today.

THE WILD DOG

TMD,
Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

Confirmed: HD says it is a requirement from the fire marshall and not from them just as I thought.

"greese hoods must include a fixed automatic fire extinguishing system that conforms to NFPA-96 and to the requirements of the State Fire Marshal's Office."

It says more than this but I cant cut and paste from the pdf and its to much for me to type. Anyway, I guess I will be getting a suppression system lol

THE WILD DOG


TMD,

Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

Wild Dog....Why don't you need an ansul system??
 
13-4.1.1 Cooking equipment that is installed in a trailer or vehicle (e.g. chuck wagon or lunch wagon) must conform to requirements of NFPA 96 and is not covered under this regulation.

chefbuba

knifeguy


Chefbuba; I was looking at your pictures that you posted. Is that an 8' hood with standard restaurant equipment under it? I see that the hood extends past the front edge of the equipment. How deep is that hood? Is it a custom hood? I went to Ventilation Direct and their concession hoods are only 22" deep. Not enough for full size equipment. Their full size hoods are too low for my cieling height. What kind of fan do you have for exhaust?
Thanks

KG.. Custom hood....100x42, it extends out in front of the equipment, and about 6" on either side..Roof mount fan.
 
Don't know off the top of my head where the hood came from, but it has the mfgrs sticker on it, if you want, I'll get that info tomorrow.

KG..
 
American Hood Systems
177 Reaser Ct
Elyria, OH  44036

CB,

 When speaking to my HD, She asked me what I was going to be cooking on the griddle. I said mainly hot dogs, and possibly hamburgers & sausage. She said as long as I wasn't using a fryer or a char broiler, I didn't need one.  I even asked directly about it and she said no.

 I remember talking to a guy at my local Home Depot about his trailer and he said something about having one.

She also told me that I needed to have a 10gallon water heater, I couldn't run piping to heat my hot water via copper pipe thru my cooking equipment. ( like on a cart) which i could see why. However I keep hearing about alot of people going with tankless water heaters too.

If she said I didn't need one and that it wasn't required, do I go with that ? Should I ask to speak to a different HD rep ?

The reason I asked directly about that is I know that they are about an extra 2k and that would totally put me over budget to say the least and would have to get up and running and save up for it.

Now I'm totally confused all over again about this stupid exhaust hood. LOL  I mean it totally makes sense on having one.

THE WILD DOG


CB,

When speaking to my HD, She asked me what I was going to be cooking on the griddle. I said mainly hot dogs, and possibly hamburgers & sausage. She said as long as I wasn't using a fryer or a char broiler, I didn't need one.  I even asked directly about it and she said no.

I remember talking to a guy at my local Home Depot about his trailer and he said something about having one.

She also told me that I needed to have a 10gallon water heater, I couldn't run piping to heat my hot water via copper pipe thru my cooking equipment. ( like on a cart) which i could see why. However I keep hearing about alot of people going with tankless water heaters too.

If she said I didn't need one and that it wasn't required, do I go with that ? Should I ask to speak to a different HD rep ?

The reason I asked directly about that is I know that they are about an extra 2k and that would totally put me over budget to say the least and would have to get up and running and save up for it.

Now I'm totally confused all over again about this stupid exhaust hood. LOL  I mean it totally makes sense on having one.

Bro, I'll tell you this, if she said you don't need one then you don't BUT I would 150% get her to put that in writting without making it seem like she is making a mistake and I'll tell you why. If you finish your build and later she or someone else realizes there was a mistake they can make you install it after the fact. The reason I say get it in writing because you need something to cover your a**.

Example: HD told me my cart had to have a splash guard. This was after my inspection, after I was approved, after I was open and after I was making money. I had no choice but to add it after the fact. Since it was a easy fix for a couple of bucks it was nothing but time to figure out how I was going to make it. However, if it would have been something major (a hood and it's cost and installation is major to me) then I would have been screwed because I could not have went out and got one the next day. Then what?

FYI my kitchen will carry my carts menu plus burgers, chicken strips, steak sub, fries and pretzels. Bro if you can get passed without it I will be really happy for you and will be sure to swing by and give you a high5!

What ever I'm with you....

Chef Buba;
Thanks for the link.
Rich (knifeguy)

chefbuba

THE WILD DOG


TMD,

Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

Wild Dog....Why don't you need an ansul system??
 
13-4.1.1 Cooking equipment that is installed in a trailer or vehicle (e.g. chuck wagon or lunch wagon) must conform to requirements of NFPA 96 and is not covered under this regulation.

From the Baltimore Fire Code.......
 
You better make an appt with the Fire Marshall....
He's the one you need your answers from on this subject.
If all you were doing is re heating hot dogs and microwaving... You probably would get away without a hood or ansul, but the first time that anything that you cook produces grease laden vapors, the FM will have his say in the matter.

can the FM shut me down though ? i'm mobile. As far as grease laden vapors, isn't that what the exhaust hood is for ?  I was told to avoid the FM b/c they weren't the ones you had to worry about, all they would do is make you spend more unnecessary money.

Again, I am going off of what my HD rep said. Except for the avoid the FM quote. that was a guy already in the biz, and he runs all kinds of grease equipment and doesn't have an Ansil system, and hasn't been shut down in 16 years. I take all the advice I get from you guys with great appreciation, I cherish it and take it back to the HD rep and ask the questions needed.

however, this is TMD's thread... I don't wanna hi-jack it...   lol

THE WILD DOG


can the FM shut me down though ? i'm mobile. As far as grease laden vapors, isn't that what the exhaust hood is for ?  I was told to avoid the FM b/c they weren't the ones you had to worry about, all they would do is make you spend more unnecessary money.
Think about that one... If there was nothing to worry about, why try to avoid them?
 
Again, I am going off of what my HD rep said. Except for the avoid the FM quote. that was a guy already in the biz, and he runs all kinds of grease equipment and doesn't have an Ansil system, and hasn't been shut down in 16 years. I take all the advice I get from you guys with great appreciation, I cherish it and take it back to the HD rep and ask the questions needed.

Dr;
Just got off the phone with Fire Chief. He is fine with the 3" air gap and a fire rated insulation. I looked at the hood system that Hood Mart designed and they have a 3" air gap built in to the hood itself. I think that I'll just go with a heavier stainless for the wall covering and glue it directly to the "studs". In speaking with him, he has no experience in this type of setup. He has never been involved with a buildout like this and has only approved trailers that have already been built. I think this is the case in most areas.
Rich