Mobile kitchen build info

Rich,
Good for you.

The Fire Marshal has never been involved with a buildout like this and has only approved trailers that have already been built. I think this is the case in most areas.
Rich 

I think your right on the money, and I'm glad you made the call, there is nothing that makes me crazy like not knowing. You can't plan, you don't know the cost and on and on.

Jack

THE WILD DOG


can the FM shut me down though ? i'm mobile. As far as grease laden vapors, isn't that what the exhaust hood is for ?  I was told to avoid the FM b/c they weren't the ones you had to worry about, all they would do is make you spend more unnecessary money.

Again, I am going off of what my HD rep said. Except for the avoid the FM quote. that was a guy already in the biz, and he runs all kinds of grease equipment and doesn't have an Ansil system, and hasn't been shut down in 16 years. I take all the advice I get from you guys with great appreciation, I cherish it and take it back to the HD rep and ask the questions needed.

To answer your question, yes the FM can shut you down for a fire hazzard if they have given you a chance to correct it and you have not. As for the guy you mentioned that was in business for 16 years it is "possible" that prior to the new hood rules, they were already open. In this case he would be what you call grandfathered in and in most cases like that you continue to operate but if they sell the business, etc then the new owner has to upgrade to current rules. Something to that effect.

THE WILD DOG

however, this is TMD's thread... I don't wanna hi-jack it...   lol

Don't worry about it, this thread is to help all who needs it on Mobile builds.. Have at it....

THE WILD DOG


can the FM shut me down though ? i'm mobile. As far as grease laden vapors, isn't that what the exhaust hood is for ?

WildDog, in ILLINOIS..............................I don't know your states rules

1st Does your local FM inspect Restaurants, or trailers, food or any other kind, for fire safety? Have you called them and asked? If not do so.

2nd Usually it's a guy from your local fire department that inspects buildings, theaters, restaurants, and food trailers, for fire safety.  In fact they are in a sub department of the fire department that is called "Fire Safety". A Fire Marshall is over the entire state and deals with much bigger issues.

3rd Call your local fire department non emergency number and ask them who inspects resturants, and food trailers, for fire suppression systems.

4th Grease vapors collect in grease (exhaust) hoods, and the hoods function is to pull the vapors thru the filters and send the smoke outside while keeping the grease in the filters.
Exhaust hoods unless cleaned on a regular bases can catch on fire. But a fire suppression system is set to put out a fire when they occur under the hood or inside the hood exhaust system.  

5th the only information you can gather here or from a friend is second hand you really need to nail down solid answers to your questions, by calling or better yet going to the local fire department and asking point blank from the final authority. Then you know you have it straight. This does not include your HD inspector they deal with HD rules and usually don't know squat about fire safety.

Although your state or others may be different and that's another reason to go talk to the fire department to find your answers. Then if they send you in another direction go there and ask your questions.

Good Luck

Jack

That'sMyDawg


I may not have mentioned but I always planned to have a complete hood system installed. Issue is that when I add in the fire suppression that kicks it up another $1,500 to $2,000 or more. I may end up not adding my grill until I get the kitchen up and running and making money, if I don't have the grill I don't need the suppression. Get some loot coming in and then add the grill and suppression system. Nothing is final one way or another but just talking/typing to hear/see my thoughts..We will see..


On another note, what the heck kinda plug is this? I was going to plug up my warmer and test it and was like huh? So I guess I need a special adapter? Thoughts...
                          



                                                                       Found this insulation, think this will work in the truck?

Ok, so I have not made it to Home Depot yet because we got another 15" of snow and it has been snowing for 24 hours so far. I looked at the plug on my counter top fryer and it is even different then the above 220 plug to my warmer (pic to the left above). It looks exactly like the one that our dryer runs off so I plugged the fryer into that outlet to test it and it came on and started to heat up quickly. It looks like this?
 

So anyone know what the name of this one is? The tag is worn on the fryer and I can't make out anything as far as amps, or anything else. I am going to the company web site to try and find the same model to see if I can dig up anything. This plug is different from the warmer so any clues?

Side note: Any tips on how to clean old grease and grim? My hands are killing me from scrubbing so there has to be something that makes it easier. I was thinking a type of oven cleaner or grease remover? I was also thinking of one of those tool parts that attach to a drill and use that to buff all this SS. There has got to be an easier way to scrub this clean, I'm still looking though.It is so much snow outside that I can't even bring the steamer in. Just as well, I am still trying to clean everything else so no point of having another big item in the way...


Feel free to jump in guys, this thread sometimes goes in other directions but it is all related to a mobile kitchen build for the most part..

Thanks.

That'sMyDawg


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  It's another 220 plug just a differant type


There are 1/2 dozen different type of 220 plugs in use today again the female end is at Lowes or any good hardware store.

Side note: Any tips on how to clean old grease and grim?
Your steamer might help a lot but there is a purple liquid at Sam's Club that works pretty well. I have been home sick all week and I'm not going to go to the stand for another day or two, but I have tried everything and it is the best for real grime and grease in a restaurant.A tip: Stainless Steel Scratchers will not scratch stainless steel but green scrubies will! So stay away from the scrubies and get the stainless steel scrubbers.

I assume below is a picture of equipment that is going in to your trailer?

If so the warming drawers are worth there weight in gold, to keep things hot or even to finish cooking some items, if they are the type that will run up to 200 degrees. In fact some go up to 250 degrees and the new Kitchenaide Brand Drawers are called Warming and Slow Cooking Drawers. I use two of them daily and I'd be lost without them.



These are good http://cgi.ebay.com/Stain..._0?hash=item19ae2aa21b

These and the green kind without the sponge attached will scratch your stainless steel items so don't use them:
http://www.instawares.com...J8CFQoNDQodlnefgw&



PS your right on target a foam polisher that goes into a drill and Mothers Mag Wheel polish will make your stainless look like new. You can get them both at any good parts store and both are Mothers Brand.

Jack

i used naval jelly to clean all my stuff... mainly to remove grease build up and clean my old griddle top up... I used some cleaner as well from home depot, but I can't get to it as of yet b/c of the snow too...  But once I do I will let you know.  If you do use naval jelly, wear a mask and gloves, it stinks like rotten eggs.   I'll try to post pics of the grill before and afters to show you the power of naval jelly

If you know anybody in the restaurant business, try to get a bottle of Grease Strip Plus from them. Eco lab distributes it and it has a spray attachment. Be sure to use rubber gloves and don't get it on your skin. It will burn you. It can be diluted for lighter jobs or full strength for heavy jobs. Clean well after using it on any cooking surfaces. Scrub with a metal scrubbie.  

Dr of BBQ

It's another 220 plug just a differant type


There are 1/2 dozen different type of 220 plugs in use today again the female end is at Lowes or any good hardware store.

Side note: Any tips on how to clean old grease and grim?
Your steamer might help a lot but there is a purple liquid at Sam's Club that works pretty well. I have been home sick all week and I'm not going to go to the stand for another day or two, but I have tried everything and it is the best for real grime and grease in a restaurant.A tip: Stainless Steel Scratchers will not scratch stainless steel but green scrubies will! So stay away from the scrubies and get the stainless steel scrubbers.

I assume below is a picture of equipment that is going in to your trailer?

If so the warming drawers are worth there weight in gold, to keep things hot or even to finish cooking some items, if they are the type that will run up to 200 degrees. In fact some go up to 250 degrees and the new Kitchenaide Brand Drawers are called Warming and Slow Cooking Drawers. I use two of them daily and I'd be lost without them.



These are good http://cgi.ebay.com/Stain..._0?hash=item19ae2aa21b

These and the green kind without the sponge attached will scratch your stainless steel items so don't use them:
http://www.instawares.com...J8CFQoNDQodlnefgw&

PS your right on target a foam polisher that goes into a drill and Mothers Mag Wheel polish will make your stainless look like new. You can get them both at any good parts store and both are Mothers Brand.
Jack

Well that is some of the items that are going in my unit however when I said "steamer" I did not mean steamer as in cleaner, I meant steamer as in my food steamer lol. Funny thing is those green scrubbers you mentioned not to use worked super on the cart, I can't imagine those steel scrubbers you mentioned would work on real grease and grime that has been stuck on something. They seem to flimsy but I have never tried them. I will once the snow backs off but my first guess would be they are going to be not stiff or tuff enough for all the stuff I need to do. I'm willing to try anything though. Will try that purple stuff from Sams too.
Yeah, the warmer is sweet, it is surprisingly deeper than I thought, It has 3 big, deep drawers so I am going to play with what I can do with them. I know one thing lol, I am never running out of soft rolls again!
My computer locked up while doing the last post so I couldn't finish and had to restart it but here is a short vid of my pretzel machine.More goodies that I didn't get a chance to post.

knifeguy

If you know anybody in the restaurant business, try to get a bottle of Grease Strip Plus from them. Eco lab distributes it and it has a spray attachment. Be sure to use rubber gloves and don't get it on your skin. It will burn you. It can be diluted for lighter jobs or full strength for heavy jobs. Clean well after using it on any cooking surfaces. Scrub with a metal scrubbie.  

hmmmmmm, I will have to look into that...Thanks!

The 220 volt plugs are 15, 20, 25 amp and so on.
Usually it's marked on the plug and receptacle.
If you can't find it there on the one that fits the dryer outlet look on the dryer name plate and it will tell you the amps of the dryer.
Your fryer will need the same size plug.

Ice Cream Man


The 220 volt plugs are 15, 20, 25 amp and so on.
Usually it's marked on the plug and receptacle.
If you can't find it there on the one that fits the dryer outlet look on the dryer name plate and it will tell you the amps of the dryer.
Your fryer will need the same size plug.

Didnt know that, I will look to see and note the info. Thanks..

EDIT---30A 125/250V

I can't imagine those steel scrubbers you mentioned would work on real grease and grime that has been stuck on something. They seem to flimsy but I have never tried them.

Well they won't work without some sort of grease cutting agent but the rule is you can't scratch SS using SS. But you'll scratch the hell out of it with a lot of other scrubbers, and some cleaning agents.

Are you going to have enough electrical outlets for all your equipment?

This Grease Strip Plus Rich mentioned may well be a good product, I'll see if I can find some here in town.

Thanks Rich.

Dr of BBQ


I can't imagine those steel scrubbers you mentioned would work on real grease and grime that has been stuck on something. They seem to flimsy but I have never tried them.

Well they won't work without some sort of grease cutting agent but the rule is you can't scratch SS using SS. But you'll scratch the hell out of it with a lot of other scrubbers, and some cleaning agents.

Are you going to have enough electrical outlets for all your equipment?

This Grease Strip Plus Rich mentioned may well be a good product, I'll see if I can find some here in town.

Thanks Rich.

Got it, I am going to give them a try and update on how they work out.  As for the electrical outlets, I am installing 8 so I'm covered.

That'sMyDawg

Ice Cream Man


The 220 volt plugs are 15, 20, 25 amp and so on.
Usually it's marked on the plug and receptacle.
If you can't find it there on the one that fits the dryer outlet look on the dryer name plate and it will tell you the amps of the dryer.
Your fryer will need the same size plug.

Didnt know that, I will look to see and note the info. Thanks..

EDIT---30A 125/250V
 
 

If that info came off your dryer it means your dryer is 250 volt with some 125 volt stuff on it and the plug should be 30 amps 250 volts.
That and the other stuff your going to run is a lot of power, how are you going to power your trailer?
That's why most people use propane.

8 8 8 8 That's not enough. Down the road you'll wish you had 16 I promise you. Are you putting your (all 8) LOL, on separate circuits I hope. I put 8 in my trailer and since have installed an additional 8 as of this date and still blow a circuit breaker every once in awhile. In fact just last week I put a new complete 220 line and a 110 line into my water storage tank enclosure that is not hooked up to the trailer so I could lessen what I was pulling from the trailer power box. In the winter I have to have heat tape on both the fresh and gray water lines and now they are powered from my pole rather than the trailer. Electrical outlets are like cash you can never have enough.

Jack

Electrical runs
My sink pump
my cash register
both of my signs
my computer
my monitor
my scale to weigh meat by the lb
my freezer
my microwave
my radio
the fan on my propane heater
my exhaust fan
both of my table to steam units
my panini grill
my cheese machine
2 warming drawers
my neon lights
my outside lights
my reach in cooler
my water pump that fills my water tank
my charger for my drill
one outside line for another flood light
 In the summer add 3 fans and my exhaust fan that runs from open to close.

LMAO Really are you sure 8 is enough?

Ice Cream Man

That'sMyDawg

Ice Cream Man


The 220 volt plugs are 15, 20, 25 amp and so on.
Usually it's marked on the plug and receptacle.
If you can't find it there on the one that fits the dryer outlet look on the dryer name plate and it will tell you the amps of the dryer.
Your fryer will need the same size plug.

Didnt know that, I will look to see and note the info. Thanks..

EDIT---30A 125/250V
 
 

If that info came off your dryer it means your dryer is 250 volt with some 125 volt stuff on it and the plug should be 30 amps 250 volts.
That and the other stuff your going to run is a lot of power, how are you going to power your trailer?
That's why most people use propane.

Nope, can't move the dryer right now, that info came of the outlet the dryer was plugged into. Until I can get to the back of the dryer (Sometime tomorrow) the outlet info is all I can use for now.. I know most use propane but I would have to have a cage built to hold my tanks on the back and I don't like the look of a cage and can't keep them inside. This is why I am trying to make it work without propane. If I cant get it to work I will use propane as a last resort.

The outlet info is all you need, no reason to move the wife's furniture around. lol

Dr of BBQ - You had a double post, maybe the mods can remove the repeat?
These are my items, I planned on 8 outlets before I snagged the pretzel machine yesterday so I can add a few more outlets now to be save.

Edit-- I am adding the amps to the list as I find them.."?" means I either have not bought item yet or have not found its amp info yet

My water pump        no  12v
My cash register    yes  0.3
Sign    yes   ?
Coffee maker         yes 14
Fryer                      yes 30
My monitor            yes + dvd ?
My microwave       yes ?
My exhaust fan +hood      yes ?
Grill     yes ?
Heat lamp              yes  ?
Steam unit        yes 
My pretzel machine     yes  2
Warming drawer    yes   12
My reach in cooler     yes 10
My water heater    yes 13
My charger for phone   yes  ?
Fan    yes  ?

Ice Cream Man

The outlet info is all you need, no reason to move the wife's furniture around. lol

She already saw me hooking a fryer up to the dryer plug to test so why not lol.

As for the connectors...



Above image hijacked from: http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm

UncleVic


As for the connectors...



Above image hijacked from: http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm

Thanks Vic!

EDIT--Still adding up amps for everything now, harder to do than I wanted because some of the tags are worn so I had to go to the makers site and pick info on a similar size and style since they only have newer units listed. Hard to figure out generator size needed because I am still adding up what power I will be using. I know its gotta be a big one! I have one brand new one thats big but I don't think is big enough. It's easy for me to sell (new never used) because the guys i know always want stuff like that. I could always sell it and can get a bigger one. FYI I got it out of state and can't return it, that's why I cant just take it back to get a bigger one. Its never been opened until tonight and I have never started it.


Info on the box is

rated freq 60 Hz
rated power output 4000w
rated volts 120/240
max power output 6000w
noise 65 db
ac current 20a or 10a
circuit breaker26a on the 120v 13a on 240

As I said its hard for me to figure exactly on amps because some of my items have worn tags so I am over estimating a little. Anyone remember whats that formula again to figure out how big a gen you need? Something about total amps added up and something?

Well buddy with what you listed I don't think you need a generator I think you need a power pole.

This was funny:
She already saw me hooking a fryer up to the dryer plug to test so why not lol.

very funny.

Jack

PS you can do some things like never turn everything on at once or turn off a big power user in order to run another big power user. But if your basically trying to run an all electric truck off of a generator you'd better get a very big generator. And keep in mind while they offer mobility they are expensive to run.

One other thought if you can............... set up your electric system so that when it's available you can run off of a shore plug.

Dr of BBQ


Well buddy with what you listed I don't think you need a generator I think you need a power pole.

This was funny:
She already saw me hooking a fryer up to the dryer plug to test so why not lol.

very funny.

Jack

PS you can do some things like never turn everything on at once or turn off a big power user in order to run another big power user. But if your basically trying to run an all electric truck off of a generator you'd better get a very big generator. And keep in mind while they offer mobility they are expensive to run.

One other thought if you can............... set up your electric system so that when it's available you can run off of a shore plug.

How big is big?

Well about 3 or 4 of them like the one you have should do it.
That's why I asked awhile back why you weren't using propane.

Multiply your required amps x the required voltage that will give you watts.
So your fryer is 30 x 240 = 7200 watts, two generators like you have should run that.
Propane or a power pole.
Unless you want to trailer around a 20000 watt generator.

Ice Cream Man


Well about 3 or 4 of them like the one you have should do it.
That's why I asked awhile back why you weren't using propane.

Multiply your required amps x the required voltage that will give you watts.
So your fryer is 30 x 240 = 7200 watts, two generators like you have should run that.
Propane or a power pole.
Unless you want to trailer around a 20000 watt generator.

Ok

TMD

 How big is your trailer ???   I was running into the same problem, that's why I decided to go propane on most everything. I will be running a 4000-5000 watt power inverter to handle my fridge, cash register, phone charger, sound system, led lights & credit card machine. Powered by 2 or 3 205ah deep cycle marine batteries.

I know for a fact that I won't have access to any power to plug anything in, unless I'm doing events.

You can get propane boxes to attach to the tounge of the trailer to hide the actual propane bottles too, I was thinking of putting them inside the trailer too, but after going back and forth, one i'm pretty sure it's against some code and if for any reason they go off, i'd rather not take the full brunt of the explosion.

THE WILD DOG


TMD

How big is your trailer ???   I was running into the same problem, that's why I decided to go propane on most everything. I will be running a 4000-5000 watt power inverter to handle my fridge, cash register, phone charger, sound system, led lights & credit card machine. Powered by 2 or 3 205ah deep cycle marine batteries.

I know for a fact that I won't have access to any power to plug anything in, unless I'm doing events.

You can get propane boxes to attach to the tounge of the trailer to hide the actual propane bottles too, I was thinking of putting them inside the trailer too, but after going back and forth, one i'm pretty sure it's against some code and if for any reason they go off, i'd rather not take the full brunt of the explosion.

Truck not trailer: Roughly 7 x 8 give or take. Propane on trailer is no problem because of tongue, they are between your vehicle and the trailer, a truck is different and you need a cage because of people on the phone while driving that will run into you for not being alert lol. No propane can go inside. I can still go propane setup, I was trying not to but I can. Since I always get deals on equipment I can always sell the electric stuff and come out ahead. I got some great deals on my things. If I have to do propane I will have a cage built to mount the bottles in. I just didn't want to go through that but I can no problem.

oh wow, I thought it was a trailer... A truck is awesome... I definitely understand about the cage part... Can't wait to see pics of the rig homie.

They put propane tanks under vehicles to run them, I don't know but you may get lucky, I would at least check it out.

Why not install saddle tanks?  Thats how all propane tanks are mounted on catering trucks..

I'm actually looking for a few things, maybe ya'll can help me with links. One would be a propane tank holder for the tonge of my trailer, or metal box to store and lock it ( preferably), a metal plate to cover the trailer tonge. & this is probably the key component, i am installing my steam table to be level with the counter top & looking to put the adjustment knob on the base cabinet and would need to sink the knob, Anyone know where I can get a plate like that ? I started a thread about it back a ways but got no response on it. I also plan to flush my warm condiments as well into the counter tops and will be needing to purchase a metal box that i can insulate and install a burner under to heat water.  

ANY TAKERS ?

Why not go to a metal fabricator?... Also something to think about... Will this home made stuff pass muster with health for not being NSF or UL listed???