Mobile kitchen build info

This is very good advice "For safety reasons, always have your shore cable with one male end and one female end. Install a male receptacle on the trailer and always plug the female end of the cable into the trailer first.


And pay attention to the actual installation path for the wires and are you creating situations where wires can rub or chaff. A mobile application will see a lot more vibration than a normal house installation. What is required in terms of wiring runs to make them more resistant to damage? 

KonaErnie


Dawg....The 17.5 KW generator is rated at 63 amps max. Judging from your requirements on the previous page it looks like you won't be able to get by with this genset. Besides the biggest outlet listed on the generator is 50 amps and that is the one you would be hooking into. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you really should look at a temporary power pole at your location.

Am I reading it wrong? It looks like it says its more than that? Spec page
Rated amps 72.9
Max amps 109
I am making some adjustments to equipment to get it all in. running into a little problem but it is getting closer. I'm not giving up! From what I can tell the main item that is sapping most of the power requirements is the fryer.  I used a spread sheet idea I saw when searching threads to add up my power usage so that helps a lot.

With my adjustments I am at 61.3 amps and 7136 watts so far. I continue to tweak things though. I have faith.

That'sMyDawg



Am I reading it wrong? It looks like it says its more than that? Spec page
Rated amps 72.9
Max amps 109
I am making some adjustments to equipment to get it all in. running into a little problem but it is getting closer. I'm not giving up! From what I can tell the main item that is sapping most of the power requirements is the fryer.  I used a spread sheet idea I saw when searching threads to add up my power usage so that helps a lot.

With my adjustments I am at 61.3 amps and 7136 watts so far. I continue to tweak things though. I have faith.

Dawg....You are right. Maybe it's time I got a new pair of reading glasses since I was looking at the 15KW generator when I got that 63 amp number.   Sorry about that!

KonaErnie

That'sMyDawg



Am I reading it wrong? It looks like it says its more than that? Spec page
Rated amps 72.9
Max amps 109
I am making some adjustments to equipment to get it all in. running into a little problem but it is getting closer. I'm not giving up! From what I can tell the main item that is sapping most of the power requirements is the fryer.  I used a spread sheet idea I saw when searching threads to add up my power usage so that helps a lot.

With my adjustments I am at 61.3 amps and 7136 watts so far. I continue to tweak things though. I have faith.

Dawg....You are right. Maybe it's time I got a new pair of reading glasses since I was looking at the 15KW generator when I got that 63 amp number.   Sorry about that!

lol I was saying something similar a month or two ago when I was quoting something wrong because I wasn't wearing my glasses. No biggie.

Anyway, IYO how far off am I with the gen running what I have trimmed down to? I am trimmed down to 61.3 amps and 7136 watts usage so far. The gen is
Rated amps 72.9
Max amps 109

Am I cool- just missing- just making it- still not close or I got it made with room to spare?

Anyone jump in here..........

I'm not very experienced on generators but I do know when you fire up a bunch of electrical powered restaurant equipment it sucks the power like an Electrolux. But after those units are up and running the power consumption drops dramatically.

So and again I have a limited experience with generators but I think you should be fine.


One other thought if you have two or three large power consumers don't turn but one on at a time when you first start up in the morning. Then 10 minutes after you turn on unit one turn on unit two and so on until you have everything fired up and hot then you only have one major draw at a time.

By the way if your running off of a generator what are you going to do about your cooler at night? You can't take your left overs home and stick them into your home fridge, so you'll need 24 hours of electric service or generator providing power. Yes...no?

Jack

Dr of BBQ


I'm not very experienced on generators but I do know when you fire up a bunch of electrical powered restaurant equipment it sucks the power like an Electrolux. But after those units are up and running the power consumption drops dramatically.

So and again I have a limited experience with generators but I think you should be fine.


One other thought if you have two or three large power consumers don't turn but one on at a time when you first start up in the morning. Then 10 minutes after you turn on unit one turn on unit two and so on until you have everything fired up and hot then you only have one major draw at a time.

By the way if your running off of a generator what are you going to do about your cooler at night? You can't take your left overs home and stick them into your home fridge, so you'll need 24 hours of electric service or generator providing power. Yes...no?

Jack

Yeah, I planned on firing them up that way. ie: one, wait a few then the next, wait a few , etc, etc until everything is running. HD needs to see my stuff all running off the one gen at once. Think that's a little silly but I do what they ask. Maybe after some time some others here will chime in and confirm that I'll be fine with what I will be using v/s what my gen will handle. We will see, however I spoke with someone today about the gen and they said I will be fine after they did some calculations and said as long as do not keep adding more cooking items, etc on top of what I already have. I am going to speak with the makers Monday personally to confirm what I was told today. If they confirm it I will go with that gen. It also says 60db, I would except up to 65db so I'm cool with that. Jury is out until Monday. ha

As for what about my cooler at night? LOL, keep in mind Jack, I'm new to this mobile kitchen, not to the business. I do the same as I did with the cart. Purchase what I schedule to sell for the day, left overs are eatin by the fam or myself, un cooked go to my commissary. As far as that goes nothing has changed. I could also put a small 12v fridge in there if I needed to keep things in there until the next days power up. I'm covered either way but way to mention it though, never know if that slipped my mind. Thankfully I already had that part covered.

Working on testing the coffee pot now, gotta buy a dag gone de-liming tool because it didn't come with one. Only a couple bucks though and the coffee brewer is looking pretty good. (Bunn model) to bad I don't drink coffee lol.

Oh yeah, funny you mention Electrolux, I worked for them years ago selling door to door lol. Vacs, water filters, carpet cleaners and floor buffers door to door. Ahhhh those where the days lol.

Thanks for your continued support.

That'sMyDawg

Dr of BBQ


I'm not very experienced on generators but I do know when you fire up a bunch of electrical powered restaurant equipment it sucks the power like an Electrolux. But after those units are up and running the power consumption drops dramatically.

So and again I have a limited experience with generators but I think you should be fine.


One other thought if you have two or three large power consumers don't turn but one on at a time when you first start up in the morning. Then 10 minutes after you turn on unit one turn on unit two and so on until you have everything fired up and hot then you only have one major draw at a time.

By the way if your running off of a generator what are you going to do about your cooler at night? You can't take your left overs home and stick them into your home fridge, so you'll need 24 hours of electric service or generator providing power. Yes...no?

Jack

Yeah, I planned on firing them up that way. ie: one, wait a few then the next, wait a few , etc, etc until everything is running. HD needs to see my stuff all running off the one gen at once. Think that's a little silly but I do what they ask. Maybe after some time some others here will chime in and confirm that I'll be fine with what I will be using v/s what my gen will handle. We will see, however I spoke with someone today about the gen and they said I will be fine after they did some calculations and said as long as do not keep adding more cooking items, etc on top of what I already have. I am going to speak with the makers Monday personally to confirm what I was told today. If they confirm it I will go with that gen. It also says 60db, I would except up to 65db so I'm cool with that. Jury is out until Monday. ha

As for what about my cooler at night? LOL, keep in mind Jack, I'm new to this mobile kitchen, not to the business. I do the same as I did with the cart. Purchase what I schedule to sell for the day, left overs are eatin by the fam or myself, un cooked go to my commissary. As far as that goes nothing has changed. I could also put a small 12v fridge in there if I needed to keep things in there until the next days power up. I'm covered either way but way to mention it though, never know if that slipped my mind. Thankfully I already had that part covered.

Working on testing the coffee pot now, gotta buy a dag gone de-liming tool because it didn't come with one. Only a couple bucks though and the coffee brewer is looking pretty good. (Bunn model) to bad I don't drink coffee lol.

Oh yeah, funny you mention Electrolux, I worked for them years ago selling door to door lol. Vacs, water filters, carpet cleaners and floor buffers door to door. Ahhhh those where the days lol.

Thanks for your continued support.

 
It also says 60db, I would except up to 65db so I'm cool with that
 
I would highly doubt that a generaror that size would be this quiet. My Honda 3000 is rated at 58db.  Do not buy a generator until you have heard it run.

Dr of BBQ


I'm not very experienced on generators but I do know when you fire up a bunch of electrical powered restaurant equipment it sucks the power like an Electrolux. But after those units are up and running the power consumption drops dramatically.

So and again I have a limited experience with generators but I think you should be fine.


One other thought if you have two or three large power consumers don't turn but one on at a time when you first start up in the morning. Then 10 minutes after you turn on unit one turn on unit two and so on until you have everything fired up and hot then you only have one major draw at a time.

By the way if your running off of a generator what are you going to do about your cooler at night? You can't take your left overs home and stick them into your home fridge, so you'll need 24 hours of electric service or generator providing power. Yes...no?

Jack

Listen to the Dr. He's telling you right. You'll be fine with that generator.

 Well I got the answers to the questions I needed today.
 
1. She is NOT going to charge me $175 to review my plans... ( money in the bank on that one )
 
2. My holding containers don't have to be so big. Since my sinks are small. I can get away with 21/30  possibly smaller
 
3. Water heater, It can be a tankless job. That rocks for me.... lol
 
4. Sinks don't have to be 18" apart from the hand wash b/c they are small and I have limited space, Just 2 seperator panels will do.
 
5. Propane will be located outside on the tounge.
 
6. Fridge, has to be NSF approved though. I'm not sure on where to get a small NSF fridge though. I will have to do some research.
 
7. Countertops don't have to be stainless steel on the cooking section and I DO NOT have to have stainless steel behind my grill either.
 
8. Ansil System is NOT required in my trailer. I even triple checked on this one...
 
***  Does anyone have a picture or referece link to what a hopper drain set up looks like ?  I have to have all 4 waste drains individually go to a hopper drain, which in turn heads to the waste tank, No manifold drains directly to the waste tank.   I'm totally confused, I had no clue & couldn't even picture what she was saying...
 

*** Courtesy of KonaErnie
A hopper drain is basically an air gap to prevent backflow from your waste tank to the sinks.  Looks like this.




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COURTESY OF THE WILD DOG

very rough drawing for me....  but i think I got it now... She said each individual drain has to go into the hopper. So i'm assuming it would look like this... correct.. roughly

**** Courtesy of Dr of BBQ

Ernie, draws much better than I do LOL so i got a link but combine his drawing with my link and you'll understand all 4 waste drains individually go to a hopper drain

http://www.homebase.co.uk..._work_soilandwaste.pdf

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COURTESY OF lornaschinske

We didn't have to have the air gap on our drains.  CC, TX HD said it was because we drain into a vented holding tank.  For the grey water smell, you might want to use the Geo Method in addition to the p-trap.  Works great to keep your waste tanks clean and keeps stuff from building up on the sides.  Because you will still get grey tank smells from the vent system of your tank.

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COURTESY OF chefbuba

Hopper, indirect drain, floor sink, all the same. My sinks each have there own "p" trap,  # 1 tees into #2, it tees into #3, which goes to the waste tank. The indirect drain is achieved by  a 1 1/2" pipe into the tank through the floor, straight drop. Where the pipe penetrates the floor is a 1 1/2"- 3" reducer or bell, 3" side up. This acts as the "hopper". Run your waste line to the hopper with a 90 above the hopper. Requirements here are 2" separation, with the hopper 2x's diamater of the drain pipe.
 
Also to mitigate the smell of festering grey water. Install a "p" trap below the bell.
You will also need to vent the waste tank. Most likely to above the trailer.

**** THE WILD DOG


Thought I would share my progress as I move along. Please feel free to chime in with any suggestions. I have alot of dead space to fill in.
 
  
 

 

 

 
 
 
The Wild Dog
"Our Dogs Don't Just Snap, They Bite"
www.thewilddogcart.com
www.facebook.com/thewilddogcart

**** THE WILD DOG


Thought I would share my progress as I move along. Please feel free to chime in with any suggestions. I have alot of dead space to fill in.
 
  
 

 

 

 
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COURTESY OF AZdog

I like how you framed and frp'd the walmart drawers. That's a great idea.

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COURTESY OF THE WILD DOG


  Az, that was the hardest part of the entire build so far. Not really framing them in but getting them to fit just right .  Before my build I was looking around at stuff and I saw them. They were perfect, so I built my serving counter around them. My intention is to have have my countertop slide right under the lip of my serving window so I don't have any exposure. I had to take the top part off and make shift a plank out of particle board so that the top drawer will open properly, shim the right front 2x4 a hair b/c I attached a 1x1 on the underside of the front 2x4 so I could trim it out. with the front metal and leave enough room for the door to slide.

When I cut out the FRP trim, I thought that was going to be insanely hard, however that part was so simple it scared me. LOL

To the left of the drawers from hell, I am going to get melamine wood ( pre drilled ) from home depot and hack it to make down slope shelves so when I am towing nothing will spill out.  

*** WalMart drawers only cost me $23.00 vs $49.00 they were marked wrong, only one out of the bunch that was like that. So I grabbed it and ran with it like a football..

Gonna rain or sleet here tomorrow all day... perfect for building shelves. At that point I am moving on to my next step which is placing the fridge, running the extension cord and measuring 8 times for my countertops. lol  I just hope the HD doesn't have anything bad to say about the drawers... I'm gonna lose my mind if they do... hehehe


The Wild Dog
"Our Dogs Don't Just Snap, They Bite"
www.thewilddogcart.com
www.facebook.com/thewilddogcart

Question about 304 Stainless Steel, Can you help ? - Thu, 02/18/10 2:25 AM ( #1 )

 Hey gang,

 I'm waiting to talk to my H/D about this, but I also would like to run it by the forums too.  I am in search of an LP steamer. I found one that is made out of " 100% 304 SS. It's NOT  NSF. However all pans that will sit inside the steamer will be NSF approved. My question is,  Does the outer shell that is made up of " 100% 304 SS  HAVE to be NSF approved to pas inspection ?  I noticed that some NSF approved is made from 304.

Also I read that the stamp isn't always a neccesity as long as it meets or exceeds the NSF qualifications.

PICTURES OF ITEM IN QUESTION

• Model CWS is a completely portable stove which operates on either 14.1 oz. or 16.4 oz. propane cylinders from 4 to 8 hours.
• With an adapter, the unit can be operated from larger LP cylinders.
• This Cooker is 100% Type 304 Stainless Steel construction and is equipped with piezo-electric push button ignition for easy starting.
• The portable unit utilizes a single stainless steel burner with a three position regulator valve to keep your food warm for serving.
• NOTE: Unit requires a 12" x 20" spillage pan underneath for water and any combination cooking or warming pans on top.
  These pans are NOT included with unit.

Here is the link to the online store where you can purchase this item: http://www.bigjohngrills.com/CWS.html

Your thoughts ?

The Wild Dog
" Our Dogs Don't Just Snap, They Bite "
www.thewilddogcart.com
www.facebook.com/thewilddogcart


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COURTESY OF Born in OKC


)


Re:Question about 304 Stainless Steel, Can you help ? - Thu, 02/18/10 7:09 AM ( #2 )

I am not a food service operator but have read the comments of those of you who deal with Health Departments with curiosity and sometimes sympathy.  Checking with your HD is best.  But I know a little about metals and can't see that Type 304 is going to hurt anyone.  In fact many pans and pieces of equipment found in home and commercial kitchens are likely to be made from 304.  One thing, 304 is one of a group of "18-8" stainless steels and they all have similar characteristics for your purposes.   If the HD specification is for 18-8 then 304 should qualify.  All of the 300 series of stainless steels have similar properties.  The numbers such as 301, 302, 304, and 321, etc,. stand for different compositions within the 18-8 category.  Type 304 happens to be more formable or workable.  It can be made into shapes more readily than some others.  Check the link for more information.
 
I am going to watch the response to your question with interest.
 
http://www.lenntech.com/stainless-steel-304.htm






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COURTESY OF Dr of BBQ




Re:Question about 304 Stainless Steel, Can you help ? - Thu, 02/18/10 9:17 AM ( #3 )



Having bought tons of used equipment, most often after a good cleaning the tags that indicate NSF are gone, or can not be read. My health department asked on one upright smoker I bought used and I told him it used to be before I used a steam preasure washer on it.

He of course asked what and I explained I bought it used and the water preasure and heat in the process of cleaning it up destroyed the tag he said oh ok.

I'm sure some HD's are more strict on this than others so you should feel your local guy out before you invest your money.

Born in OKC, thanks for the lesson on 304 stainless steel. Pretty cool stuff.

Jack




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COURTESY OF AZdog








Re:Question about 304 Stainless Steel, Can you help ? - 1 day and 23 hrs. ago ( #8 )


NSF certification isn't so much dependent on the material that was used to build it (ie 304/ss) but more on the build itself.  NSF equipment typically doesn't have a lot of exposed seams, grooves, indents, exposed screws etc. This is because each of these potentially allows for food to lodge there and create a problem.

I have even known restaurants that have bought NSF prep tables, and then go bolt on a can opener or something.  Next time the HD inspector comes through he flags it, because around the edges of the bolts is now food grime.  Doing something as simple as that changes the whole dynamic of the thing that was NSF approved.

Please feel free to point out anything I have missed when transferring everything over to this thread.
The Dr Of BBQ had a great idea about keeping it all on the same thread, So I am attempting to move everything over.

"Model CWS is a completely portable stove"

Those are very cool and I have never seen the propane operated table top steam tables before. They would be great for some catering gigs where electricity is limited. Can you post a link for them.

And in answer to your question yes they should work very well, but you need (if you haven't done so) to check on what material you need to run for your propane gas line.

Some fire departments want black iron pipe, others will allow hose and some require an automatic shut off valve.

Here is one companies definition:[class="sitewidefonts"] Defense system, shall be installed for automatic shut off of gas whenever gas appliances are used. The valve has a “pull to close” design requiring a pull force to trip a latch that holds the valve in the open position.

Note during normal use the valve allows gas to free flow but when triggered it shuts the gas off to everything. You said you don't need a hood so you may not need this unit.

But as always it's easier to install as you build than find out later that you have to have one and then have to re-pipe your sustem.

Jack

DR,

 I just posted the link under the pictures to where you can purchase the cooker. I'll also post it here to avoid any confusion.

http://www.bigjohngrills.com/CWS.html

The gas lines, was going to be my next real question. I always planned on running black pipe, just to be on the safe side. I was going to run it myself even though I don't know anything about running them, I have watched several videos on it and feel comfortable enough to attempt it. I don't see how it would be hard but I will start with a few pieces before diving right in. Safety first.

Also I was going to put in an emergency turn off valve but haven't really had the opportunity to seek out a spot to put it ( the back issue, or at least I hope it's a back issue lol )

Since I have decided to put the propane outside, I need to seek out where to buy a metal plate for the tounge & where to find propane holders.  I'm not sure if I am comfortable drilling thru my brand new trailer as of yet. Might have someone do it. I don't think it's gonna be hard at all, and probably would be over & done with within a few minutes.

I will need a grease extraction hood, but won't need an ansil system. I won't be able to use the grill at first. Have to get up and running first to earn some money and then have it installed ( that's the plan as of now at least ) The cheapest place I have found them would be about $1100 installed and that includes the 12volt exhaust fan installed too. It would be done in NJ @ Custom Carts.

Picture is for illustration purposes

I called a few of the places in previous threads everyone recommended but one place never called me back, I didn't follow up, but i plan to call again to see what kind of price they want for a custom fabricated one would cost. Would it be more expensive to have one custom made or would it be cheaper to get one already fabricated ?

I am having Wells cargo build me a trailer and am having difficulties trying to figure out the dimensions for the roof penetration for the exhaust fan and the grease hood. Wells cargo will frame out what i need before they skin the roof, however i do not know the size penetration i need. I was going to order the Hood and exhaust fan from ACitydiscounts online. They have great prices, but I am having problems getting the information i need from them. It seems that they are  all sales men there. I have a cut sheet for the hood and exhaust fan showing all of the dimensions. I sent them to Wells Cargo but they want me to tell them what is needed. I dont have any experience with hoods or exhaust fans.. I am in need of help.I cant progress any further in the purchase until this is resolved. I can attach the cut sheets. In need to know how wide the roof penetration needs to be, where the framing should be placed , if additional framing is needed to bolt the exhaust fan down to the roof of the trailer, how is the exhaust fan attached to the roof. I am having my trailer built with a flat roof. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Hot Dog Heaven,

I wouldn't worry about Wells Cargo framing anything in. That just makes for possible issues. The installation people who put those vents in should know what they are doing. Plus it keeps $$ in your pocket. Your build is going to cost you more than you expect. I am in the same process, I have searched out a company that I can purchase the vent hood from & they will install it including the 12v exhaust fan for $1100. The link to the site is above the picture with the exhaust fan circled in red, ( custom carts).

knifeguy


If you look at the trucks from Armenco in California you'll see a similar hood system and exhaust as in the custom 650, only they have 4 or 5 fans hooked up on their hood system. All of these are 12 Volt and vent out the side of the truck. I have tried to get information on them but all I could get was their offer to build me a unit for my truck. Big money and they want to install in Cali.
If anyone has information on this system being available on the East Coast, please pass it along. The "mushroom" on top of my already 12' truck has me worried and I do not like the look of that style setup. I am also trying to find information on a low-profile fan for the roof.
Also; does anyone have any information on the acceptability of the side vent hood systems with the louvres by the authorities on the East Coast..particularly Massachusetts

If you look at the trucks from Armenco in California you'll see a similar hood system and exhaust as in the custom 650, only they have 4 or 5 fans hooked up on their hood system. All of these are 12 Volt and vent out the side of the truck. I have tried to get information on them but all I could get was their offer to build me a unit for my truck. Big money and they want to install in Cali. If anyone has information on this system being available on the East Coast, please pass it along. The "mushroom" on top of my already 12' truck has me worried and I do not like the look of that style setup. I am also trying to find information on a low-profile fan for the roof. Also; does anyone have any information on the acceptability of the side vent hood systems with the louvres by the authorities on the East Coast..particularly Massachusetts

KNIFE, I am trying to get a cut sheet from custom, but it's been like pulling teeth with them. They have no idea what i'm talking about and even when i mention the word blueprint, I think it just confuses the lady even more. LOL  I think even if you have a bigger grease hood, you could have more vent fans, they do come in larger sizes. I'm on the hunt for them too.

Dr of BBQ


Guys I would suggest that you don't buy a water tank from an RV dealer they are way to expensive. Just go to ebay and check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...name=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I have bought three of these and they are the same tank but much less expensive.

Good Call DR,

 I am actually purchasing my tanks from this seller, this week hopefully. I'm gonna check to see if he sells water pumps too to get everything at once from him.

THE WILD DOG


..........
***  Does anyone have a picture or referece link to what a hopper drain set up looks like ?  I have to have all 4 waste drains individually go to a hopper drain, which in turn heads to the waste tank, No manifold drains directly to the waste tank.   I'm totally confused, I had no clue & couldn't even picture what she was saying...

Here is a link to another thread about drain air gaps. 
http://www.roadfood.com/Forums/tm.aspx?m=497654

These links are from the PART 890 ILLINOIS PLUMBING CODE for these connections. (these are the only ones I can easily find online to show what connection are allowed)

http://www.ilga.gov/commission/jcar/admincode/077/07700890ZZ9996haR.html

http://www.ilga.gov/commission/jcar/admincode/077/07700890ZZ9996hbR.html

http://www.ilga.gov/commission/jcar/admincode/077/07700890ZZ9996hcR.html

http://www.ilga.gov/commission/jcar/admincode/077/07700890ZZ9996hdR.html

Your state HD will have the same or similar connection details.

But since your mobile kitchen is not connected to a public sewer system, it can not possibly back flow raw sewage into the sinks.    ..... The real problem is that a back flow can occur momentarily and drain out without anyone being aware, then food might be perpaired in a contaminated sink.  This is the reason for the air gap requirements for commecial kitchens.

Now for a mobile kitchen with its own waste tank a back flow can not occur, but accidental overfilling of the waste tank can. But should this happen, the waste will back up into the the sink and remain there. It can not happen without someone knowing.   

I don't like the possibility of the waste back up occurring that would flood the floor and work area as could happen with the "hopper" connection, thus causing a complete shut down and decontamination/cleaning of your mobile kitchen. The simple solution would be to add an overflow/vent pipe about 6" to 8" tall to the waste tank.   A waste tank vent would be no different than the floor drain shown in the following illustration, only outside to prevent contamination of the work area & floor.

chefbuba


Dont' know, I did not build it. But most likley they were ordered at Home Depot or another building supply. It is just a special order retrofit style window with tempered glass, which is required here, and also might be a requirement in your area too...
 
(the retrofit window has the "nailing flange" on the exterior of the window, which also acts as  the exterior trim of the window, and allows it to sit flush in an opening)

Chef,
How are your tables fastened to the trailer? Or are they?

Jack

Well, I'm still here reading and learning as this thread continues to grow and take on a life of it's own. (lots of good info and exchanges here)  Also been reading a lot on the web and also searching the real world for more info on this process. Anyway, we all can remember the early days of trials & tribulations and the little joys that come along the way so in keeping with that theme please allow me to post very small and short moments of joy as I work on cooking skills along with testing and perfecting use of some of the equipment. More equipment checks then anything and not earth shattering I know but I take them when I can get them.

FF's-   Steak and veggies- B & E


R&D 1    R&D 2 R&D 3



Generator- Question, ok so you have the shoreline into the gen and that powers your trailer outlets? Ok but what I am missing is this. If you have the shore line into the 50 am plug (for example) on your gen how do you get the rest of the amps out of your generator to your trailer? Do you understand what I am asking? So the outlets in your trailer are powered by say 50 amps but you need the rest of the amps out of your gen so do you plug into the other outlets into the gen? Say 30 amp plug, 20 amp plug and so on with extension cords to what ever else you are powering? Everything can't be in the outlets because it is only say 50 amps powering them. Plugging more into your trailer outlets will not work so I am asking do you have cords running from the other spaces in the gen to the item you want to power (say coffee maker, etc) that can't go into the outlets because you are already using the 50 amps?

Gens are new to me to please forgive if I have already answered myself. Also what good is more outlets if you only can power them from your largest shoreline plug in?

Dawg,  ... do you need another taste tester for your R&D????  

If your generator is only 50 amp that's all you can get out of it. If it's 60 amp that's the max output. Is what your asking as follows:

If I plug my line in (to the trailer) into the 50 amp outlet on my generator on the 210 side that reads 50 amps, will it provide enough power to run my trailer that needs 60 amps to fully operate? Is that what your asking?

If that's the question the answer is no, you'll need to make a 220 jumper that's comes off the 2 or more 110 outlets and feed that to one side of your power box, and the 50 amp line to the other side of the same box.
I think LOL.

My plan is two different power boxes in my step van one for each side of the truck, and divide up power to the boxes. 2 separate in lines coming off my power pole box.

And if I'm wrong on this lets learn on your unit. LOL So I can do mine correctly the first go round.

Dr of BBQ


Chef,
How are your tables fastened to the trailer? Or are they?

Jack

Bolted through the back into the metal studs, tack welded legs.

TMD..... Are you not running off of a breaker panel?

Dr of BBQ


If your generator is only 50 amp that's all you can get out of it. If it's 60 amp that's the max output. Is what your asking as follows:

If I plug my line in (to the trailer) into the 50 amp outlet on my generator on the 210 side that reads 50 amps, will it provide enough power to run my trailer that needs 60 amps to fully operate? Is that what your asking?

If that's the question the answer is no, you'll need to make a 220 jumper that's comes off the 2 or more 110 outlets and feed that to one side of your power box, and the 50 amp line to the other side of the same box.
I think LOL.

My plan is two different power boxes in my step van one for each side of the truck, and divide up power to the boxes. 2 separate in lines coming off my power pole box.

And if I'm wrong on this lets learn on your unit. LOL So I can do mine correctly the first go round.

lol you are funnnnyyyyy.. "so I can do mine correctly" I would say the exact same thing lol.
For the most part you have my question right. So going by what you say you would have the 10 outlets on one side to one box and the 10 on the other on the other box? Yeah, seems do-able. Another question for the electrician lol . Man is he/she gonna have a lot to speak with me about.
I'm just trying to understand how to get every last amp out of the gen. FYI the gen is still in this thread with a link to the specs if you or anyone wants to go back and see the outlets to see what I'm speaking of. I think it's one or two pages back.

Also if anyone needs a new 6k watt gen I can let it go for a good price. Retail $600 or $699 I think but I will sell for $425. The specs on it are in this thread as well, if more info is needed let me know. TrueLife 6000E never unwrapped.

chefbuba


TMD..... Are you not running off of a breaker panel?

Breaker box/ breaker panel, are they one in the same? If so then yes I plan to. Early stages now and have not got that far yet.

edwmax

Dawg,  ... do you need another taste tester for your R&D????  

ha. ha lol. funny thing, I went outside to these kids walking around and was like "taste this" lol (they know me from my HD cart FYI) I just cut up what I was test cooking into bite sized pieces, They were like, "thumbs up, got some more" lol, Another day dudes, another day. Told them to "remember this taste because next time you need to tell me if its better or worst as I work on the recipe. Kids are great because they are blunt, if they like it you know it and if they think it sucks you for sure will know it..