Mobile kitchen build info

Keep in mind if you don't have enough power to fully power all your demand from electrical equipment, the equipment may well still operate but not as it should and you may cause damage to your appliances over time..

I think the ideal situation would be to divide your electrical demands equally between two power boxes, and do the same with your power source. And yes it doubles some of the cost but it'll save a lot of headaches over time. But that's just my opinion and your electrician will give you the best advice.

Dr of BBQ


Keep in mind if you don't have enough power to fully power all your demand from electrical equipment, the equipment may well still operate but not as it should and you may cause damage to your appliances over time..

I think the ideal situation would be to divide your electrical demands equally between two power boxes, and do the same with your power source. And yes it doubles some of the cost but it'll save a lot of headaches over time. But that's just my opinion and your electrician will give you the best advice.

Yeah I know, Ive been reading that online. The gen maker says I will have enough to properly power what I list as long as my list doesn't grow anymore.  I'm going to speak with the electrician about what he thinks about it when we are talking about the wiring build and my list of a thousand questions.

Question about these city fill inlet valves... Have you ever seen any that have an option for a locking outside cap ?

All I see on these are just pop off caps. I'm kinda concerned about people putting stuff inside them while the trailer is sitting at night, What are your thoughts on this ?

Would there be an additional option to use something else besides a fill valve? ( not interested in dragging a hose out to the actual tank and connecting it. )

One more question I thought about too...  Will ONE water pump be sufficient to run water to both my faucets ? I have a 3 compartment sink and a hand washing sink as well. I was planning on getting a single 12v on demand sureflo water pump to handle both sinks. I doubt I'll ever run both the hand wash and the 3 comp sink at the same time.

How would you fill your tank without hooking a hose to it?
 
Here is a covered inlet.

I thought I'd use the force :-)    I know I would need a hose, I was looking for something like you listed. Thank you very much for that. I'd feel much more safer knowing it was locked some how..

Also, anyone have any experience with tankless water heaters by ECCOTEMP ?

THE WILD DOG


Question about these city fill inlet valves... Have you ever seen any that have an option for a locking outside cap ?

All I see on these are just pop off caps. I'm kinda concerned about people putting stuff inside them while the trailer is sitting at night, What are your thoughts on this ?

Don't worry... that little plastic cap will break off the holding strap fairly soon.  I like to keep a "blow out" fitting on my city water inlet (dirt dobbers).  I've never had anyone stick stuff in our fill valve... and we Wally-Dock!

THE WILD DOG
Will ONE water pump be sufficient to run water to both my faucets ? I have a 3 compartment sink and a hand washing sink as well

You want a "multi-fixture, on demand" pump. I think Shur-flow only makes one pump that isn't a multi-fixture on demand.  We have a 2088 in our RV.  It is the basic pump. We can shower and turn on the sink faucet at the same time.... water pumping drops only slightly.  And our (3) Shur-flo pumps are all circa 1980's & 1990's.

chefbuba


How would you fill your tank without hooking a hose to it?
 
Here is a covered inlet.

Or you could use one of these, many HD's require this type of fill system. It was required in Los Angeles when I was doing movie work 10 yrs ago. No one can tamper with the  water tank, and you wont be sticking a dirty hose end down the fill pipe.  The only bitch is, if you loose the fill end, and your on the road, .........you better have a spare! (BTDT)

The Wild Dog wrote Question about these city fill inlet valves... Have you ever seen any that have an option for a locking outside cap ?

All I see on these are just pop off caps. I'm kinda concerned about people putting stuff inside them while the trailer is sitting at night,

Why would anyone want to drag a hose to your trailer and hook it up and pump God knows what into your fresh water tank?

That isn't going to happen so don't worry about it.


Chef Bubba wrote Or you could use one of these, many HD's require this type of fill system. No one can tamper with the  water tank, and you wont be sticking a dirty hose end down the fill pipe.  The only bitch is, if you loose the fill end, and your on the road, .........you better have a spare!

Chef in my opinion that rule came about through someone that sells these units. But that said they look like  a common quick connect fitting that you can buy at Lowe's or and good hardware store, for much less in fact about 10% of your fitting total cost.

The only rule we have is you must use a non back flow device so that water from your fresh water tank can't flow back into the city water system, while your pumping water from the city into your trailer or truck.

Which is kinda silly also since the city water pressure is always higher than your fresh water tank pressure. But what they are concerned about is creating a vacuum after you stop pumping water into the tank, and the water being sucked back into the water line.

Still silly, with all due respect.

Jack

So now that I'm feeling better ( yay no more back pain, knock on wood, LOL )  I've searched out the next major set of purchases.

(1) 10 gallon water tank
(1) 16 gallon water tank
(1) SHURflo "premium" water pump
(1) Eccotemp tankless water heater

 ALL on ebay for $276.00 ( give or take a few in change )  I don't think that is a bad deal at all.  Any suggestions on where to purchase cheaper or if this a good deal ?  Would like to purchase this by Tuesday if possible. Once I have all of this I'm going to order my countertops and get back to work.

Dr of BBQ


The Wild Dog wrote Question about these city fill inlet valves... Have you ever seen any that have an option for a locking outside cap ?

All I see on these are just pop off caps. I'm kinda concerned about people putting stuff inside them while the trailer is sitting at night,

Why would anyone want to drag a hose to your trailer and hook it up and pump God knows what into your fresh water tank?

That isn't going to happen so don't worry about it.


Chef Bubba wrote Or you could use one of these, many HD's require this type of fill system. No one can tamper with the  water tank, and you wont be sticking a dirty hose end down the fill pipe.  The only bitch is, if you loose the fill end, and your on the road, .........you better have a spare!

Chef in my opinion that rule came about through someone that sells these units. But that said they look like  a common quick connect fitting that you can buy at Lowe's or and good hardware store, for much less in fact about 10% of your fitting total cost.

The only rule we have is you must use a non back flow device so that water from your fresh water tank can't flow back into the city water system, while your pumping water from the city into your trailer or truck.

Which is kinda silly also since the city water pressure is always higher than your fresh water tank pressure. But what they are concerned about is creating a vacuum after you stop pumping water into the tank, and the water being sucked back into the water line.

Still silly, with all due respect.

Jack

DR, Don't get me started on the back flow device, the city made me have a $400 back flow device installed on top of the one that is already installed, because IT could not be tested.
 
I have to have this tested anually, and show proof of testing to public works to renew my business license.   Everyone has their hand out......

Dog, why the 2 small tanks?

small trailer... :-)  i'm in a 6x10 trailer. I'm eating my words right now when I said " eh it's only 2 feet, it isn't going to make THAT much of a difference "  LOL  I could use that 2 feet right about now. My sinks are small. Before I order the tanks, I'm going to do a gallon test, by filling all 4 of them, filling all of my equipment and then multiply it by 2. If I'm close to 10 gallons for fresh water, I know i'll be ok on a daily. if I exceed it, I know then I will have to up it.  I think 10 gallons will be plenty for me but again, the theory hasn't been tested yet. 

Sound logical ? or should I go another route ?   I took the electrical outlet theory, count em up then double them. LOL

I have 35 gal, sometimes I can run it all in one day, I filled on Friday, only washed a few things today, plus hand washing, still have 1/2 tank for Monday before refilling.  More is better if you have the space.

Everyone has their hand out...... Bingo

More is better if you have the space.  and another home run, but SPACE is the operative word.


"eh it's only 2 feet, it isn't going to make THAT much of a difference "

Oh man 2 feet in a trailer or truck is like another bedroom to a house.

Jack

PROPANE TANKLESS HOT WATER HEATER
I bought a replacement for my first tankless unit just a few weeks ago after reading about someone else on RF saying they bought this brand, and were happy with it.

I'm also very pleased with the new unit. My water comes from an outdoor water tank and the temp in the tank during the winter months stays just above freezing, usually about 36 degrees. I then pump it into my on-board tank and from there as needed through my hot water tankless system. It heats water hot enough to steam when it comes out of the faucet. You can't ask more than that, especially for $125.00.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PROPA..._0?hash=item45efb09690

Hello all, I'm a retired Army Vet that is in need of a Commissary for my Mobile Kitchen in Hampton, Virginia or any city close to that in the tidewater area. My email is any leads or help would be greatly appreciated.

I found this company that sells what sounds like what your looking for.  it has a recessed fill in a locking door.
 
Hope this helps.

Well we are waiting back on the response from the H/D regarding the CWS unit... I'm hoping she green lights me on this... Would be a huge step forward for us.

We have been green lighted & they have accepted the steamer !!!

SORRY !!! It was just that was HUGE for us...  I feel like I'm on top of the MONDAY world right now !!! I even think I got me some goose bumps.

So did you do a "little uptight white boy happy dance"? Congrats!

Okay, so what incarnation of steamer did they accept? And did you ever get the small commercial fridge?  


If not:
Summit 5.5CF commercial ref

I did a chair dance, I'm still mending my back, however no pain for 2 days now...  lol    the steamer/cooker is here http://www.bigjohngrills.com/CWS.html

No go on the fridge yet, I found one that is a few hundred cheaper, model/brand is TRUE. I will post a link later, I am going to see about some auctions first and check with some restaurant owner friends that I know to see if they have or want to unload any extra equipment.

THE WILD DOG
...   the steamer/cooker is here http://www.bigjohngrills.com/CWS.html

David & I looked at that one when you posted the link.  It looks like the burner in our cheapie Wal-Mart gas grill.  We burn on of those grills out every year.  Watch the regulator... those type tend to crap out.  Something inside hangs up or something and they stop working.  Of course I may be wrong... I often am on this forum.   Good Luck, gotta go.  I have a job interview in a few minutes.  Corpus folks aren't much on food vendors selling on the street.  Gotta supplement our income.

Dr;
Thanks for the link to the tanklesswater heater. Have you installed this unit inside your trailer? Did it pass inspection? I called the manufacturer and he could not tell me to install inside the truck since it is an outside unit. However he did say that many people have installed them in similar conditions to mine. Is the exhaust vented to the outside? Can you vent this under a hood system?
I ask a lot of questions but I appreciate your input
Thanks
Rich

My unit is installed and inspected, and vented to the outside.

You could vent it to the exhaust hood but with a word of caution. My exhaust hood fan is so strong it changes the air in the trailer every 30 secs. So on occasion during the summer if the exhaust fan is running it will suck the fire out on the water heater, LOL.

But if you don't have a tornado like exhaust hood you'll be fine. I really do like this new tankless water heater and for the price if it only last a year I'd be happy. It took less than 10 minutes to take the old one out and put this one in.

Jack

PS I used stainless steel braided hose with standard garden hose fittings to run my water lines. Cheap and easy to buy at Lowe's or any hardware store or even on Ebay.

My 3 comp sinks will officially hold 2 gallons of water each, so that is going to be 6 gallons reserved alone for the 3 comp, i figure I'll use at least 1 gallon for hand washing sink, and probably another 2-4 gallons to keep my water bath running all day & at night time.  I will be using at a minimum 16 gallon holding tank for fresh water & 21 gallon for my waste. Originally was going with 10/16 before the test.

Always good to test the holding amounts, a good lesson learned. I'd have been throwing a 10 gallon tank down the driveway in a frustrated fit of rage had I not done that test. 

Funny story about the counter tops I want. I met my gf at a newly constructed burger king yesterday and sat down at the table and noticed they were trimmed out in the counter top laminate that I wanted. Looked really good and the dimples were barely deep. I just like the industrial look of them. I don't think the dimples are going to pose a problem with food and dirt getting stuck, however I do have a back up. I am going with a Black counter top.

Sink side 19 5/8W x 75 5/8L

Serving window 20 3/4W x 75 5/8L

Grill side 21 1/4W x 67L

Everything is 5/8" thick.

ok... So Home Depot pissed me off for the last time today and I surely let them know it. I went to order my counter tops, since the rep said " OH having them custom made would be cheaper than buying the pre fab ones and cutting them down to length & depth yourself"  So I'm sitting there, and right away I notice the price was about $17 sq ft. I knew right away I was lied to. However I played it out. Got a price of $500 and that was including deliver. Which I told the rep I didn't want, I could pick them up there.

I asked him to explain it to me like I was a 5 year old HOW that was cheaper than $200 PRE FORMED ones that they sold right behind him. I wish I could have taken a picture of this idiots face when he tried to explain himself.

He told me that I would have to hire someone to measure the pre formed ones and it costs money to have someone cut them down with a circular saw. I looked at him and said, I have 2 arms, I'm covered in saw dust, Do you think I cut wood ? With as much respect as I could muster up, I told him that really he needs to go to his manager, tell them what he just told me, and then ask to be fired.

Needless to say, It wasn't a good day at Home Depot. So I'm just going to buy me some 3/4" plywood, some FRP and C-trim and some caulk and build my own. I've pissed away alot of time and energy on these counter tops, to have to come full circle and realize I should have just built my own to begin with. UGH !!!! ( just venting)

BLECH!!!

THE WILD DOG


*** Courtesy of KonaErnie
A hopper drain is basically an air gap to prevent backflow from your waste tank to the sinks.  Looks like this.




*****************************************************************************
COURTESY OF THE WILD DOG

very rough drawing for me....  but i think I got it now... She said each individual drain has to go into the hopper. So i'm assuming it would look like this... correct.. roughly

Do you know where I can pick up a floor sink such as this ? I have searched high and low, Maybe i'm not calling it the correct thing, when I search for it.

Dog, There was a discussion on this a couple of pages back....Don't remember if you have to have all seperate lines or just one?? What size is your drain pipe?. You use a reducer, inverted...2x's the diameater of the drain pipe....or what ever your code requires there..