Mobile kitchen build info

I remember, that's why I posted the last pic, All my pipes (4) have to drain into the hopper, my drain pipes will be 1" or 1.5" at most. I can't find anything to drain them into. The only thing I 've found was a 4" round with a 3" reduced end and nothing to reduce it down to to the 1 1/4 inlet on the waste tank. 

If you must do 4 drains into the hopper, then use a plastic or metal bucket (or old pot).  Cut the bottom and fit a drain basket and plumb to the waste line.

I was thinking of taking a 10" x 6" deep steam pan, drilling a 2" hole in the bottom and dropping in a sink drain and plumbing it that way. I think I'm over thinking it way too much. LOL


Without the faucet of course

You are over thinking on this aspect of your plumbing.

You only need a basic funnel to get the water into the tank. In fact do you need a funnel?

Why not just use a hole saw and cut a hole into the top of your tank and run your sink drains into the hole?

Well not into but just above the hole, use a hose clamp to tie all of your drain lines together and leave them long enough to go into the waste water tank then go back far enough to be legal and cut those baby's off with a reciprocating saw and bingo your done.  this is the way I did mine.

If I have not described this  process well enough call me at the stand 217-744-9999 and I'll go over it with you.

Jack

Cruise thru the plumbing section at Lowes or Home Depot.  I don't know what your drains are like but you can tie all your sink drains to one tail pipe... use a pipe just an inch or so larger than your sink tail pipe, allow for the  "air gap" required... reduce down to your "p" trap and run on into your holding tank.

A fitting similar to this one should work, but in the sizes you need... you might need to reduce more than once...
1-1/2" x 3" PVC Coupling

You can tie your sink drains together like this: 


We used bilge drain piping and PVC "T" couplers (file down PVC to get the bilge pipe over the PVC using the short smooth sections of the bilge pipe). The "T"s were tied together with short lengths of PVC pipe.  Hose clamps keep the bilge pipe on the sink tail pipes and "T"s.  We bought the bilge pipe from Lowes (where they have all the cut to length clear tubing & hoses)


Sink drains were the lavatory type but without the overflow (hole in the side) and the lift... we got it from Lowes but I can't find a link. It was a Plumb Pak brand similar to this Sink drain

Oh and that stainless steel is tough to drill.  Use a carbide tip metal drill bit.  We drew a circle on the bottom of the steam table pans with a permanent marker. Then used a round drill bit and drilled a series of closely spaced holes (slightly over lapping).  Then filed the rough edges down a bit using a round chainsaw file.   Set the drain pipe in the hole with a ring of plumbers putty.  Tighten nut from below until tight... clean off excess putty. 

So I went to Lowe's and looked for the supplies I needed, I must say Lowe's is actually a hair bit cheaper than Home Depot. The people are friendlier, and the FRP is class 3 vs Home Depot's which apparently isn't.  1 piece of FRP 4x8  $33.00 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood $11.00 & 2 pieces of 1/2 C-channel $11.00 each.

$11.00
$11.00
$11.00
$33.00
Total $66.00 for 2 REAL custom made counter tops.





Getting ready to set the sinks tomorrow. I have the paper down, traced out and 3/8 inset from the original trace line. I'm getting really excited now... LOL

CRUSHED IT TODAY in the trailer. Got alot more done than I expected. Still have to trim out some pieces, burn out part of a 2x2 in the back by the sinks so I don't have a gap  between the wall & the counter top and slap some trim, and hopefully I will be fully finished the build by the weekend. I'm still blown away at what I was able to accomplish. Here are a few more pictures of what I got done today.






**** QUESTION; What would be the best thing to use to set my sinks ? I haven't glued them or caulked them yet. I wanted to see what what was best to use before I did that.


Thanks guys !!!

We used regular caulking. The same stuff we have always used to caulk in countertops and sinks.

I have some clear silicone for wood & doors at the house, but i'm guessing that's not what I want to use. Eh a trip to Lowe's will fix that. I'm excited, Now I gotta get another FRP panel, trim that out, and then pull it off and start on the gas plumbing. I'm still debating losing the door there and putting the valve on the outside, but i'm not 100% on that yet.

I'd use some kitchen & Bath Silcone if I were you, it's meant to be used where water is present.

By the way this is a neat item at a pretty good price considering it's stainless steel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...Q5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Jack

THE WILD DOG
... I have some clear silicone for wood & doors at the house, but i'm guessing that's not what I want to use...

Don't use 100% silicone.  You want a siliconized latex caulk (water cleanup).  If you use the Clear latex caulk, you will need to caulk at least twice.  It goes on white but dries clear.  Unfortunately, the Clear latex caulk shrinks as it dries. Which is only as long as you realize that you will have to recaulk a couple of times.  DAP Alex Plus Silicone is a decent caulk.  Smooth and lasts a decent length of time.    

Dr of BBQ


I'd use some kitchen & Bath Silcone if I were you, it's meant to be used where water is present.

By the way this is a neat item at a pretty good price considering it's stainless steel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...Q5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Jack

Jack,

 That is very nice... I like it, would go great with my black trailer. I'm looking for something to hold the tanks as well. I'm definately going to have 2 tank holders for that just in case moment. Cuz I know it will happen to me !!!  If  you know of anywhere I can get any outside tounge tank holders, Or anyone for that matter, I'd greatly appreciate it. The build is 90% complete. Still have to trim out some spots for sure to make it look good.

 Also I'm going to have to drill through the trailer wall to run my hoses into the trailer.  If anyone has any advice on that. I'd greatly appreciate it as well.

Thanks to all !!!

THE WILD DOG
If  you know of anywhere I can get any outside tounge tank holders, Or anyone for that matter, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Tank Holder http://www.pplmotorhomes....ne-cylinder-holder.htm

The Wild Dog
Also I'm going to have to drill through the trailer wall  any advice on that. I'd greatly appreciate it as well.

Measure twice and drill once. But I'd go through the floor not the wall.


But don't do this

DEEPWATER, Mo. -- Officials are trying to decide whether to file charges against a Missouri man who fatally shot his wife while trying to install a satellite TV system in the bedroom of their home.Patsy Long, 34, of Deepwater, died after being shot in the chest. Her husband, Ronald Long, fired the shot from the inside of their home after several unsuccessful efforts to punch a hole through the exterior wall using other means.


PS What happened to ThatsmyDog?

Dr of BBQ

PS What happened to ThatsmyDog?

lol thatsmy"dawg" is around. Dr. didn't you read my post from a week ago saying just that ha ha? Anyway, I am busy but now I am working on the mechanical aspect of the mobile unit at this point. There are/were some things that needed(s) to be repaired per State of Maryland ie: bringing out of state vehicle up to Maryland code. So it is in the shop being worked on right now. I started the gutting out process of the inside before it went in the shop but had to stop when it went in. The gutting is not as easy as it might seem with wheelchair lifts, etc inside. Very, very heavy and not a snap to remove. In the mean time I have been doing a ton of reading and calling around to get questions answered and also learn more. I am not in the position to have to re-do things so I am taking it one step at a time.

I am dealing with a more involved process since I will use a grills, fryers, etc. A complete exhaust, hood, and fire system is a whole nother ball game financially and build process wise so I had or have no intention of rolling through that quickly. I am working on this build but it is one step at a time. When the truck come out the shop and I get it to pass inspection with the repairs I will be able to focus more on the build process. Not much I can do until it is done with the garage.

Anyway - on a side note, saw my first Custom 650 in person up close today. I have only seen them on the web or while on the highway, etc. I got a chance to speak with a owner a little and talk about the unit and our industry and also got a chance to see the unit in action as he was making a Gyro at one point and earlier in the day B&E sandwich. Unit is as nice in person as on the web, I always liked the custom 650 and was a hair away from getting one at one point. Shot some vid but after looking at it it did not come out very well so I just deleted it. I know where he is now (not in my county) and we made plans to keep in touch.

That's about it for now. More reading, more learning, more planning, more changing....

Tanks should be in by Tuesday. I'll start the plumbing on Wednesday, but really should wait until the water heater is in too... I got just enough room to put the side by side with no issues, unless they can't be side by side for some health code reason...  lol     

Ok...  So the way I figure stuff out, is to draw it out in MS PAINT.  I've come up with some ideas of what my gas line runs should look like.... Can someone tell me where I should put the regulator, and if I should put more than one in, and feel free to edit my drawings if you want to...  I just do it to get the visual.

Sizing your gas line and where you put your manifold are similar questions to electrical boxes, and wiring size. I say that because it depends on the length of the run and the usage of the appliances.

Try and find a really good propane dealer, and take your questions (printed out) with the measurements, consumption figures (BTUs) from the appliances,  and or pictures if you have them to a Q&A session. In fact the best bet would be to get them to come look at the equipment and trailer in person, but they are not always willing to do that. It may be worth offering to pay someone to come to your job site and look over your trailer.

But beware some of the propane dealers are old family run businesses and not always helpful.  But just go to another dealer until you find someone that will really try and help you.

Also be forewarned that at a propane dealer parts can cost 3 times what they may cost at the big box stores, if the big box stores carry what you need, and If they don't, buy what you need from the propane dealer.

Try doing a search for "Calculating Propane Usage and BTUs"

SO THIS IS WHAT I FOUND OUT...

  Did you ever plan an RV trip to a remote area and wonder how long the LP gas in your LP cylinders or LP tank would last? If so there is a way there is a way to roughly calculate propane usage. 
The first piece of the puzzle is knowing how much propane is in your RV cylinders or tank when full. Remember an RV propane cylinder or tank is full at 80% of its capacity to allow for expansion. Wait until your cylinder or tank is nearly empty and the next time you have it filled ask the attendant how much it holds.
 
The next step is to multiply your propane container capacity using one of these formulas, (gallons or pounds), to determine the container BTU capacity.

• BTUs per gallon equal 91,502.
• BTUs per pound equal 21,548.

Now, divide your container BTU capacity by the total BTU demand of the LP gas appliances you plan to use.  BTU appliance demand can normally be found on the appliance itself, or in the appliance owner’s manual.
This will give you an idea of how long you can expect your LP gas to last.
For example: If your RV propane container holds 14 gallons of LP gas when it’s full, you multiply 14 X 91,502. The result is 1,281,028. Now divide this figure by the total BTU demand of any LP gas appliances you will be using. Let’s say, for the sake of an example, the total BTU demand will be 43,800 BTUs. In this case you would have approximately 29 hours of use before running out of LP gas.
However, keep in mind that the amount of LP gas in the container and varying temperatures will affect these calculations too. This is especially true in cold weather. At temperatures below zero degrees the per hour container BTU capacity will be reduced by 50% or more.
Calculating propane usage can give you a general idea of how long you can use your LP gas fired appliances before needing to find a propane filling station.

RESOURCE : http://blog.rv.net/2009/1...ulating-propane-usage/

GAS PIPING INFORMATION

Information: Charts:
Gas Piping Sizing

LIquid Propane Gas Piping Size Chart - Information chart assists in determining Liquid Propane Gas Piping Size in inches (½" to 4") for lengths of pipe in feet (10 feet to 400 feet).
Natural Gas Piping Size Chart - Information chart assists in determining Natural Gas Piping Size in inches (½" to 4") for lengths of pipe in feet (10 feet to 300 feet).

Note: These charts are provided by Aaladin, a major manufacturer and supplier of Pressure Washers and Parts Washers.
Industrial Equipment is a certified Distributor for Aaladin.
View a PDF version of Industrial Equipment Chart for Gas Piping Sizing.         Requires Adobe Reader


Liquid Propane (LP) Gas flow is given in thousands of BTU/hr. (This chart refers to low pressure LP, after regulation )
One cubic foot of LP gas = 2516 BTU
Pipe length must include "additional length" for all fittings.  Add approximately 5 feet per fitting.
Standard nominal pressure at the burner for Liquid Propane Gas is 11" of water.
Aaladin uses the same orifice for all propane burners: #63
Liquid Propane Example:
A machine with a burner that requires 440,000 BTU would need a 1-¼" pipe for a 20' long run.


Natural Gas flow is given in thousands of BTU/hr.
One cubic foot of Natural Gas = 1000 BTU
Pipe length must include "additional length" for all fittings.  Add approximately 5 feet per fitting.
Nominal pressure at the burner for Natural Gas is 3.5" of water.  (Typical machine supply 5"-7")
Aaladin uses the same orifice for all propane burners: #52
Natural Gas Example:
A machine with a burner that requires 440,000 BTU would need a 1-¼" pipe for a 20' long run.

RESOURCE: http://www.industrial-equ...mation/gas-piping.html


The Wild Dog
" Our Dogs Don't Just Snap, They Bite"
www.thewilddogcart.com
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So, with the information provided above, I will be using approx 120,000 BTU at full capacity. Since my tankless water heater is on demand, I'm thinking I should minimize that number & my griddle won't be used at full capacity either.  I'm not going to have it turned up to the max for 8 hours a day.  So if I half that number, say 60,000 BTU. I should be ok running 1/2 black iron pipe. Estimating about 20 feet in pipe, ( over estimated for safety )

Learned alot in the early morning today. LOL

Thanks DR.

Your welcome and I really like the fact that your willing to do the research and then post your results. I have always though how fast you rise in the ranking here on roadfood should be a result of the content and quality of post, not the number of post.

Good job buddy.

Jack

Dr of BBQ


Your welcome and I really like the fact that your willing to do the research and then post your results. I have always though how fast you rise in the ranking here on roadfood should be a result of the content and quality of post, not the number of post.

Good job buddy.

Jack

Thanks Dr.,  I really like being able to go into a post, read & not have to click on links to get the info. Links can be shady. So if I can copy it & paste it in the forum, I feel it is better & utilizes time better. LOL I used to have to send stuff inner office & we were so micro managed, it just became a habit to C&P everything.

Plus it helps the next guy too. We've totally hijacked this thread... LOL  but if it helps the next guy, I'm all for it.

Now to price out piping. Not that expensive, and I've noticed that you can get pre cut pipe in 1" increments. Which is really good for me, since I can't measure to save my life.

Black Iron pipe is pretty cheap and if you go to Lowe's they will cut it to length and thread it for you for free.

I was there yesterday getting ideas. The guy told me that they have 1" & above cut & threaded. Said they sell as 1 " 2 " 3 " etc so if you only need 1" or 2" extra you can buy just a 1 or 2 " piece already pre cut & threaded.  I was amazed. I was like wow they don't have that at Home Depot. He said... welcome to Lowes... :-)

Hello all-

Please take a minute and give some feedback on what an electrician "might" charge for my install. I have a price that I was quoted but I want to hear/read what you guys think is a fair price. The items for install that I was quoted are listed below but I fully understand that an electricians price per hour or total fee may vary state to state, etc but I am just getting an idea if my info is in the ball park. ie: between X amount and X amount seems fair but anything below X amount is great and anything above X seems a little high IYO. I am waiting on 2 more quotes from others FYI so I will know if these people are crazy are not once I hear back from the other two companies. While your looking at the list now would be a good time to suggest any additional items electric wise I may have forgotten. I will drop the bomb of what the first quote was shortly. I am also giving them an updated list of a few things I forgot to ask them about.

Thanks

(14) Outlets each on it's own circuit.
(2)  GFI outlets on the outside (1 on each side).
(1)  100 amp breaker & shoreline
(2)  4' florescent lights

And the total price is...drum-roll...................................$  .  Anybody want to guess????

I have no idea but if it's over $500.00 you can cut it in half.

You can run the conduit and pull the wire yourself. Tell him your on a short budget and have him install your main box and tell you what size wire to buy and have him show you how to run the wire to the outlets. In fact I'd just about bet there is a video on line somewhere that will show you how to do it.

Running wire and installing conduit is really easy once you've seen it done. And if you buy the box, wire, and conduit you'll save money compared to his markup.

We did my trailer in a single short day maybe 6 hours.

Jack

My guess for the electrical estimate would be $1200 

Licensed electrician...Time and materials...My guess is somewhere between $1500-$2000. Is there a prize if we guess right?

Wow, I'm impressed! One of these two people are within $80 and on the first try! Lets see if the powers that be can figure out which $80 to swap.  I think there is a game show that after you guess the amount you can change a digit or two to guess again if your wrong? I think it's the price is right lol..??

porkchopexpress

My guess for the electrical estimate would be $1200 

KonaErnie

Licensed electrician...Time and materials...My guess is somewhere between $1500-$2000. Is there a prize if we guess right?

Bob Barker


Wow, I'm impressed! One of these two people are within $80 and on the first try! Lets see if the powers that be can figure out which $80 to swap.  I think there is a game show that after you guess the amount you can change a digit or two to guess again if your wrong? I think it's the price is right lol..??

porkchopexpress

My guess for the electrical estimate would be $1200 

KonaErnie

Licensed electrician...Time and materials...My guess is somewhere between $1500-$2000. Is there a prize if we guess right?

Bob Dawg....I'd like to change my bid to $1420. If I win I don't need no stinkin wall to wall carpet or any funky living room furniture.  My hut is small and wouldn't have any room for it. A hot dog or 2 would suffice next time I come through Maryland on the way to visit my sisters. 

Warning this is a Beer Post and subject to being deleted by the moderator or poster which ever sobers up first.

Bob Dog LMAO!

I think it's the $1280 Pork Chop Express  bid that is correct.

Besides Bob Barker was a pervert. LMAO  He loved all those glands bouncing up and down.