In my earlier post on this topic I mentioned a recent article from the Providence Journal but said that it was no longer available. While surfing around the web today, I found a copy of it and am posting it for your edification. I cannot vouch for the recipes at the end, but am eager to try them. While the additional biographical information regarding the founder's reverence for New York adds to our knowledge of the name's origin, I don't think it calls into doubt the theory embraced by the Sterns and others, that the "New York" reference had to do with authenticated the new treat as it entered the market. I'd also note that the article confirms wanderingjew's comment regarding the Greek-American (Greco-American?) influence on the dressing. The photo at the end is not from the Journal, but I couldn't resist 'cause it's a beaut.
A real Rhode Island original
07/02/2003
BY GAIL CIAMPA
Journal Food Editor
PROVIDENCE
Seventy-six years ago, New York System introduced the hot wiener at 424 Smith St., staking its claim as Rhode Island's signature fast food.
A few things have changed since 1927, and a lot has stayed the same.
They no longer cut off the ends of the spicy wieners before putting them in the buns. Instead they buy wieners the appropriate length. Also, the wieners are now made without casings.
Though Jack Kelley, 29 years behind the counter, can still rack up a dozen wieners in buns on his arm, and apply mustard, meat sauce, onion and celery salt in quick succession, they now have trays. This allows them to operate within sanitary codes, but Kelley still feels bad about it.
"It's not a wiener unless it's on your arm and served with coffee milk," he said.
The price has changed too, gone from two for 25 cents when Kelley started to $1.17 for one -- $1.25 when you've paid the tax.
What's stayed the same is the ownership, third generation of the Pappas family. Gust Pappas founded New York System first from a cart then the Smith Hill spot and was succeeded by son Ernie. Today grandson Gus is in charge of keeping the state secret -- the meat sauce recipe. Even Kelley, who mixes up the meat part of the recipe, doesn't know the spice mix that Pappas adds in when the two make the sauce twice a week.
Everyone -- from the folks at the counter to Gus to Kelley -- laughs when you try to ply the recipe from them.
"There's something secret in that sauce," said Dave Sormati, a patron for 25 years. "But no one's telling."
The place has both changed and stayed the same. In the kitchen is the restaurant phone, a rotary dial one. It's not the only thing well-preserved.
There, too, is a 1940 black-and-white picture covered with plastic wrap. In it are the five men, including Ernie Pappas, who all worked together at New York System that July. They included his brother, cousin, uncle and a neighbor. One by one, the other four went out and opened their own New York Systems, which explains how the restaurants aren't connected, yet the recipes are.
"We're the original and the first, though," said Gus Pappas. Back in 1927, people weren't talking about trademark protection, he added.
As for how the name "New York System" came to represent a strictly Rhode Island phenomenon of hot wieners, Pappas said that it was a homage to the city from his grandfather. When he migrated from Greece, he went through Ellis Island.
"He was in such awe of New York City, he just wanted to keep a part of it with him," he said. "You can imagine him coming from a small Greek town into the city. The fast pace appealed to him."
They started spelling wieners as weiners, a more authentic German spelling, said Pappas. But he believes it got Americanized to wiener.
People hear about New York System wieners and make the Smith Hill stop part of their vacation, said Kelley. Behind the counter are pictures taken by diners visiting from California.
Non-locals take their wieners slow, Kelley noted. They ask a lot of questions and then try one. Most of the time, they come back to the counter for another three. Sometimes, he said, they return just before boarding a plane home and order a bag of them to go.
Since 1945, Doris Gaynor has watched the comings and goings at New York System. She started dining on Smith Hill when coffee and a wiener together cost 40 cents. When she was new in town, having moved down from the Boston area, she would come into the place after a night of dancing. There were juke boxes, wieners and coffee, and it was a place to unwind.
After she married, she would take her eight children in for a treat after shopping, though not usually together.
"It was a community place," she said. "The neighborhood had a fruit stand and hardware store and a haberdasher. You would come for shopping and lunch."
Now the grandmother of 24 enjoys sitting at the counter to read her paper and have a cup of coffee each morning.
The crowd that arrives before the 3 a.m. weekend closing time isn't coming from ballroom dancing anymore. They are more likely to arrive from a club, sometimes in a limousine after a night on the town, said Kelley.
The lines in the early morning hours haven't changed either. There seems no wariness of nitrates among New York System wiener lovers. People still order 30 at a time, said Kelley.
Multiples seems to be the order of the day at the place. A price list stuck to the cash register lists the with-tax price for up to 22 wieners. After that, math skills are required.
By the way, don't call it a hot dog, even by mistake. A hot dog is a beef product, contends Pappas. A wiener is a pork product made with veal.
A wiener is a weiner is like nothing else.
Readers' wiener sauce recipes
Though the New York System won't reveal their secret sauce, here are some wiener sauce recipes swapped by readers over the years.
HOT WIENER SAUCE
1 pound lean ground beef
2 cups water
1/3 cup finely chopped onion
1 1/4 teaspoons paprika
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon celery salt, optional
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon prepared mustard
2 to 3 teaspoons chili powder
Put hamburger into a heavy skillet. Add water and remaining ingredients. Stir as you bring it to a simmer. Simmer for 45 minutes. If it becomes too dry, add a little more water and partially cover the pan. The finished consistency should be like chili. Enough for 2 pounds of hot dogs. Spoon over hot dogs in a bun. Add mustard and chopped raw onion, and if desired, a shake of celery salt.
WIENER SAUCE
1 1/4 pounds hamburger
1 stick margarine
1 small onion finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons chili power
3/4 teaspoon allspice
1 tablespoon garlic power or salt
1 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/3 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
Melt margarine, add onions cook until brown and let cool for 15 to 20 minutes, then add hamburger and loosen while cooking. Then add paprika, chili power, allspice, garlic salt or powder, salt and pepper. After spices have cooked for about 10 minutes, add water. (If you want more juice use more water). Let cool before freezing.
MEAT SAUCE FOR NEW YORK SYSTEM WIENERS
1 pound ground beef
1/2 cup chopped onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon celery salt
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 teaspoons dry mustard
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup water
Brown beef with onion, add everything but water. Bring to a simmer, add water, then simmer 10 to 15 minutes. Serve over wieners in a bun.
