The 2012 James Beard Foundation Awards America’s Classics award honorees are:
The Fry Bread House (4140 N. 7
No trip to Phoenix is complete without a visit to the Fry Bread House, a trim paneled room on a modest, sun-baked residential street, founded in 1992. The sign outside says “Native American Food.” At the counter inside, you can order
exhilarating, complex red and green chile stews that are a primal blast of the Southwest.
Owner Cecelia Miller comes from the Sonoran desert Tohono O’odham Nation, and her all-native staff is drawn from assorted Arizona tribes. Their blissfully delicious specialty is hand-stretched fry bread—downy bronze cushions the size of
dinner plates, in both savory and sweet versions.
On the savory side: Indian tacos, layered with refried beans and beefy red chili, green chili, or chorizo, garnished with crisp chopped iceberg, shredded cheese, and tart red salsa. For dessert: fry bread baptized with butter and local honey or
homemade chocolate.
The faithful clientele is wonderfully democratic, from Tohono O’odham friends of the house to hipsters and businessmen and the ever-present lucky traveler.