I went back to look at the smaller version of your fan and noticed on the left side of the page an add for Housed Spring Floor Mount Vibration Isolators. I had been looking for some to mount my generator with but didn't know what they were called. Those on the page were only for 35 # items so with the name I did a search and check out this site. Lots of ways to connect or isolate most anything.
http://www.vibrasystems.c...ategoryID=0&page=0
 
Is this enough to help with your equipment stand, it's from the same site

2. Levelers

Back

B Series

VibraSystems steel leveling feets are ball and socket type mounts that can be used for light, medium and heavy duty applications. These mounts are available with a stud or in a tapped in thread style. The B series swivel base will move up to 10*-15* to compensate for uneven floors. The B series are available in yellow zinc (clear zinc, nickel or black oxide optional). VibraSystems also offers these mounts with a non-skid elastomer pad.

These guys usually ship same day on stuff like this and their site has pricing listed on it.
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#swivel-leveling-mounts/=frkixe
 
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nonmetallic-vibration-damping-mounts/=frkjoy

BackAlleyBurger


think i found my fan..... this one is single speed 1500 cfm 
i wonder if one fan from one side would pull more air from that side or if it would be a fairly even pull across the filters...... anyone have an idea ??

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/exhaust-fans/exhaust-and-supply/10-exhaust-fan-shutter-mounted

I got very interested in this fan and I spoke with someone yesterday about it and got an email response back to the actual depth and measurements of the fan. I'm pretty sure that this will work for me as well.
 
this is the email they sent me
Hi,

Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding our Exhaust Fan Shutter Mounted. The depth of this item 6.5 for the whole item.
 
If you would like to receive a quote for this item please provide me with your name, company name, address, and phone number.
This item can be ordered online at www.globalindustrial.com or by calling [link=tel:1-888-645-1232]1-888-645-1232[/link]. 
If you have any further questions you can contact me directly.
 

Sorry to stick my nose in here, but if your building shelving and such yourself I'd recommend using standard steel tubing as a material, and then use some of the many plugs and fittings available for them such as this one:
 
We build stainless tables, shelves, etc and use these types of accessories, it adds a professional touch and are quite easy to use.
 
http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section7/

yea, i did a little asking around today as well and found out these fully sealed motors are for all practical purposes water tight, with the exception of total immersion......
also told they are good for high heat, although not "rated" for it
and to be on the "safe" side, just build a small deflector to mount behind the motor to block the hot air from directly blasting the motor casing.....
a squirrel cage design would be best, but that would be 3 times the money, and 2-3 times the size 

Rod,
i was just looking for ways to raise my rear feet 1 1/2 inches on the back of equipment stand because i am taking the fronts off and resting the front of stand right on top of the wheel well..... it over laps about 6 inches, and is 1 1/2 inches taller then the current legs
 
i do like that website though ....thanks for sharing :)

what do you guys think of this idea to help keep the fan cooler......

it can be added to the 99 dollar fan for about 5 bucks.....
the closest legit heat rated fan i could find only pulls 243cfm and doubles the size of the fan assembly

i def wont have the room for that, plus my hood is 3 ft above my griddle.. should be alright without it

i think these may also have to do with "thickening" the air up right before the fan as well...... hot air is thinner then cool air, and even though the fan will still move 1500 cfm of air at either 100 degrees or 400 degrees, the static pressure will drop significantly...... meaning i think it will pull less air through the filters...

lol, my fans will be about 9 inches from the back of the hood.......
i wish i could take a look at a side vent fan on a up and running truck to see how its put together
one that was "pro built" so i could see what the industry uses

Good luck, I have contacted several and i mean SEVERAL manfans of stand in carts and everyone is tight lipped. It's some kinda 12volt system they are using. I will have roughly 2-3 inches MAX behind my filter from the back of the hood after the fan is in. It's going to be side mounted. I will take massive amount of pictures of that install. What I'm probably going to have to do on mine just to make sure I have clearance from the filters is mount the entire fan assembly on the outside and cut a hole big enough to have the fan and motor enter the back of the hood from the outside of the truck and put some firestop in there and possibly a small round piece of duct work for the pass through.

there is a stand in hot dog cart at a car lot across town..... i will have to get in there and see if i can find a name or something on the fan or fixture....
it would be sooooo nice to have 12 volt fans......be able to go "stealth" mode for a few hours at a time....
glad im out of money right now, lol, gives me time to shop around and do research

I guess I'm not sure what the issue would be, 12 volt fans are readily available, and here's one link to calculations for size of fan.
I've seen a lot of 12 volt exhaust fans on street vendor carts here, they use old car radiator fans, hooked up to a 12 V battery, anyway here's a couple links that may help.

http://www.hrpworld.com/i...63&action=category
http://www.engineeringtoo...aust-hoods-d_1036.html

That fan system is a great find! Thanks I've been searching for that type of set up for a while. I'll have an 8ft hood. I'm thinking 3 of those 10 inchers evenly spaced will suck!

the good the bad and the UGLY........

lol, the good part is i finally got around to looking under that floor plate that covers the unused drivers foot well....
 
 

the bad isnt really that bad...... just a good example of why you never want to use floating grounds on an aluminum vehicle .....

 
yes, aluminum never rusts....but it will corrode, mainly when you add a little moisture(like in an unused footwell) and micro currents of electricity(floating grounds)
not the best pic, but you can see the white powdery aluminum rust.... caught it in time before any real damage was done, but i took a few whacks with the hammer to break that corrosion free in order to get the screws out

and here is the ugly !!, lol
there must be 10 pounds of just muck i dug out from down there....the foot well has 4 drain holes in it, but after crap like this starts building up there is no hope....
it was nice and moist last night when i dug it out, and smelled like compost, so yea..... if you have a single door..... might want to take a look every now and then to keep it cleaned out....
i am putting a pair of batteries down there, and maybe some other electrical components, so i need to take a close look at how to seal the space up better then it is now....

RodBangkok
I guess I'm not sure what the issue would be, 12 volt fans are readily available, and here's one link to calculations for size of fan.
I've seen a lot of 12 volt exhaust fans on street vendor carts here, they use old car radiator fans, hooked up to a 12 V battery, anyway here's a couple links that may help.

 
im not sure i want to put a plastic fan that close to my hood, since any possible fire will be almost assuredly sucked right across the fan itself being so close
but i do like the idea of how it would look from the outside.....pretty neat and tidy i do think.... maybe i will check further into those.....

BackAlleyBurger


what do you guys think of this idea to help keep the fan cooler......

it can be added to the 99 dollar fan for about 5 bucks.....
the closest legit heat rated fan i could find only pulls 243cfm and doubles the size of the fan assembly

 
You have ether lost your mind or are a genius I'm not sure which. LMAO
 
Your getting close to an outside fresh air source for your system. Maybe that's what your trying to do and I just didn't understand. I assume your just trying to cool the air before it hits your fan motor right? I'm going forward with that assumption. So and this is just my HO, but you playing with the entire engineering of the fan and exhaust system, including how much air the fan will move, and how much hot air and grease it'll suck out of your truck. I understand your building your own system so I'm using the term engineering of the fan and exhaust system loosely but this could be something that you get the right mixture of hot air and interior air 100% right when you build this contraption, or it could be something you'd spend months tinkering with every day. I'm sure that's not what you'd want. But to get the right mixture I'd think you'd need some sort of professional expert to figure and design. Again I may be waaaaaay  off base just my thoughts.
 
On the other hand
 
If your using outside air for your system you need to get some advice from and expert also. I have seen many systems that use outside air in their system in order to not suck the air-conditioning out of the kitchen and the entire restaurant but again they hired some one to figure the cubic feet of incoming air vs the amount of out going exhaust air.
 
One last thought instead of trying to fool with air to cool the motor couldn't you just build a cone of some sort to deflect the exhaust around the back of the fan motor, your still playing with the design and flow but not as much? Or how hard is it to get access to the fan motor? Hell to replace my fan motor (after 5 years) on my roof system took 15 minutes to pull it out and a rebuild was only $60.00. then 10 minutes to put it back in.

And guys these fans are awesome but your going to need louvers for the outside right? 

Just some thoughts.

RodBangkok
I've seen a lot of 12 volt exhaust fans on street vendor carts here, they use old car radiator fans, hooked up to a 12 V battery, anyway here's a couple links that may help.

http://www.engineeringtoo...aust-hoods-d_1036.html 

 
Rod,
Do you know how to use the math in the formula? If so can you engineer all that needs done to figure the protective cone that BAB is trying to build?Or is it your impression that it's no big deal?
Jack

lmao !... i r a injun ear.....
the basic idea of the air tube is to cool the bearing on the end of the shaft in the motor, and the cone is to deflect hot air around the bearing area of motor housing, 
with 1500 cfm from this fan, i just need to figure out what a 1"id pipe will flow with a 90 degree bend in it, or maybe 1 1/2"...... just have to find some values and go from there.....
 
idea being, fan pulls 1500 cfm, pipe of a given size will flow say 50-100 cfm.... that still leaves me with 1400 or so cfm being pulled through the filters....
also if the cooler air from the tube lowers the temps right before the fan, it will effect the static pressure and help the fan work more efficiently(pull more air through filters)
 
the cone itself will have a major effect on how hot the bearings get, and being a cone instead of a flat piece, in my head it helps smooth air flow and "aims" it toward the outer edges of the fan blades, where they do more air pulling more so then closer in towards the shaft... 

So this pipe and cone gizmo is going behind your filters correct?
Ok as long as you don't say hold my beer and watch this. LOL
 
But with all your doing you need a set of these:
http://www.debrix.com/JEW...T-RED-p/33-0552-vt.htm
 
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33-0552-VT Jewel Glass License Plate Bolt Set Red
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yea, behind the filters, in the plenum (probably 18 inches from rear of filter) 
 
i love those lights

Cool. Shoot plenty of pictures so I can learn from your creative thinking. Wow that sounds so much better than from your efforts. LOL
 
And I can see a dozen uses for the license plate lights or if they make an led light like it. At the four corners of a Step Van outside menu board, corners of a lift up window, lights on the steps going into the van, where ever. I think rope lights are so tacky.

this is a diagram of what i think may work......

oohh let me tell you....the LED clearance lights i got, i ended up with 2 spare red ones, i prewired the dome light but havent found one i like yet, so i temp wired those 2 spare red ones in and man, they light the cab up enough to read a newspaper....
they come in red, amber, blue, green, white, and i think purple.... crazy bright, and they are only 6 bucks each !
actually make that 5.50 each.... heres the ebay seller i buy from, great folks to work with, i highly recommend them......
scroll down and you will see the links for different colors, etc.... they will put you together a package like what you want, mixed colors, etc...... and dont forget the stainless steel trim rings....really makes them pop !!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Maxxima-3-4-Amber-LED-Clearance-Marker-Truck-Light-/350493746387?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519b0e24d3#ht_10463wt_953

actually the rear wall would be about 2 1/2 inches thick....

Dr of BBQ

RodBangkok
I've seen a lot of 12 volt exhaust fans on street vendor carts here, they use old car radiator fans, hooked up to a 12 V battery, anyway here's a couple links that may help.

http://www.engineeringtoo...aust-hoods-d_1036.html 

Rod,
Do you know how to use the math in the formula? If so can you engineer all that needs done to figure the protective cone that BAB is trying to build?Or is it your impression that it's no big deal?
Jack

Here's a second formula for calculating the capture air velocity that is used in the first.
http://www.engineeringtoo...ust-outlet-d_1008.html
With the known CAV you can then enter the other variables in the first calculation I referenced.  
Here are some references to designing hoods, one big thing you need to consider is the make up air.  Take a look at the following links and pdf's.  They explain in some detail about how to feed make up air into the area.  
Think of make up air as the air that you take out with your hood has to be replaced with makeup air, and how that air is supplied to the area is very important.
As far as your cone is concerned I don't think I'd worry too much about it as the temps are probably not high enough to worry about.  More important is how your grease filtering works to insure the air leaving thru the hood has most of the grease filtered out already.  
When you design your fan into the plenum I'd make it a modular type unit that you can just slide out of a slot in the plenum sort of like a drawer.  That way you don't have to take the world apart to replace a fan.
http://www.google.com/url...4YEA3CY5K77NC6bqSjyvng
http://www.google.com/url...xdlyO_Y2Poq2r3ZqcaJOXQ
http://www.energy.ca.gov
 
Also google:
Kosonen Risto, Mustakallio PanuAnalysis of Capture and Containment Efficiency of a Ventilated Ceiling.
 
Reading engineering documents can be quite boring or make you look up a lot of terms and associated data, but its all in the realm of learning something new.
I'll try and help with questions, I'm no hvac expert, but we've got experience in doing simpler type designs.  I believe in learn by doing so dig into this and other sources on the web, theres a vast amount of information out there, just takes some time to find it.
I'm in and out and away from my time on forums quite a bit so if I don't get back to someone its because I'm tied up and away from these sites.
 
Hope this helps

Fan Motor

Fan Motor
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