Preping the Aluminum Floor question

Greetings,
Just a quickie here.  What preping is needed for the aluminum floor in my (another) new to me grumman.  Yeah I have 2 grummans now, a 1980 and my recent purchase a 1995.  The 1995 has an aluminum floor, with a few to many screw holes left in it by the previous owner.  What should I do to prep the aluminum floor before I put in a wood sub-floor for my tile covering?  Meaning, what to do with all those little screw holes in the floor now. SHould I cover the whole floor with some kind of plastic before putting down the wood or what?
Thanks in advance. 
 
PS. BTW, I found someone in Memphis area to make a lexan glass ceiling like I want, at a reasonable price.  Hope to start on that soon.

plastic under the plywood would work fine or just caulk the holes and lay wood. Mike

How big are the holes? What kind of tile are you installing? How thick is your sub floor going to be?
 
Depending on the weather in your area you'll get some condensation between your original floor and the sub floor. And I'm not sure any plastic will help in the areas that require you to drill through the tile and your aluminum floor. Like sink drains, installing anything mounted to the floor (cabinets - water pumps - gas lines - electrical supply lines) and anything else you attach to the floor.  I think I'd drill and attach those lines, and items and then remove the drains etc and then lay the sub floor and tile. You'll need a tile that will withstand the movement of your step van. There is some flex driving down the road, especially with any heavy equipment mounted to the walls and floor. That's why I suggested the plastic floor in another recent post.
 
It's difficult to build something having never done it before and not being able to go to an expert that has worked through  all that you can not for-see.
 
Someone suggested using some grit in a paint to insure a nonslip floor and I have to tell you that would make your floor next to impossible to scrub. You'd destroy a mop every time you scrubbed your deck. Water on a floor is not an often problem I have run into in the daily operation of my trailer for the last several years. In fact  it has only happened twice when water pumps or lines ruptured due to freezing.
 
How ever condensation is an all winter problem and with a steel deck it rust, flakes the paint, and looks bad. I'm not sure just thinking out load here but if I couldn't install the floor I mentioned in the previous post I'd take a  look at these links, and I'm not recommending them they are just the results from a fast search. But they should help you think through the process.
 
http://www.everlastepoxy.com/
http://www.internationalc...kLuVv6cCFcW5KgodQ1RTJg
http://www.greenstarcoati...estaurant-flooring.php

Thanks for the info and suggestions.  I have no other resource to draw upon other than the pages of this website, and since this is my first food truck build I rely heavily on the info found here.  A grateful appreciation to those who are always ready to give their time and valuable advice to those of us who are newbie to the business. Thanks!

Oh I understand that's why I said (It's difficult to build something having never done it before and not being able to go to an expert that has worked through  all that you can not for-see.), but a search engine both here and on line is your best friend and adviser.
 
There are two great builds threads here ............and although piecemeal a lot to be found on line.
Good luck

one approach, to maintain maximum head room would be to use 4" pink board, and do any insulating from underneath, there is plenty of wide open space and nice square sections that are easy to fill in....you can epoxy the insulation in place or use a tight fit for friction and go with a few aluminum straps riveted in place to hold it in.
then you can (well do any welding before insulating) weld the holes up in the floor, and from there, one of two routes, simply "polish" the floor and live with the patches being visible, or epoxy coat the floor with something like a garage coating.
 
i have been a boat guy most of my life, and putting grit in the paint will not ruin a mop or make the floor uncleanable....your not trying to make an 80 grit floor, your just adding a "sand" product to help grip shoe soles a little better

above all...never use pressure treated lumber in direct contact with aluminum, i wouldnt even trust a sheet of the thickest industrial plastic for the long haul....
 
the new pressure treating formulas contain cooper oxides instead of arsenic, and they will corrode(aluminum rust) your floor or walls in short time.......
 
throw a little condensation into the mix, and a possible stray electrical current, now add a little road salt depending on where you live and you have just created a huge battery that will eat itself like a good cheap lunch