Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle

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wanderingjew
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2013/05/02 19:34:07 (permalink)

Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle

Before I begin.....
This is my first real trip report in 8 months....First of all I want to thank all of you who have sent me PM's insisting I carry on....I know most of the time I think my trip reports go ignored and I appreciate your compliments and encouragement....You all know who you are.....
 
I always had a love/hate relationship with Seattle. Some of you know I lived in Seattle beginning in 1992, through early 1996......Seattle was a very tough time in my life. I would even venture to say.... traumatic.....Although I think it's a wonderful place to visit, I couldn't have been any happier when I left... Although this was my third visit back, having visited in 1998 and again in 2007, this was the first time I took a very introspective position with my visit.....
 
Since I lived there before the internet, I couldn't do the real hard research I could have done before moving there.....  I didn't know what the "Seattle Freeze" was ,when I looked it up years later...all  could say is, "wow, did  I experience that when I lived there".... As a single guy, I also had my suspicions about the very skewered male/female ratio, once again years later I discovered with a 60/40 ratio of guys to girls in my age group at that time in the early 1990's I realized  that I surmised correctly.
 
Anyway...on with the food.....This was an extended weekend trip, and I'm going to break it up by day....
 
 
Thursday April 25
 
I began my day early before 6am to ensure that I got out of work early enough to catch my 5pm flight out of Providence...... since my flight arrived about 10 minutes late in Chicago, with what is now merely a 35 minute layover, I had no time to catch a bite to eat before changing planes...I arrived in Seattle at around 9:30 pm, it was after midnight eastern time and without any dinner, I was starving...By the time I got my rental it was after 10pm, thankfully my first (and only stop) of the evening was less than 2 miles away....
 

 
 
13 Coins in Sea Tac.  Although original location is in Seattle, I was way too tired to head out there....Going to the one near the airport made perfect sense... Even though I spent over 3 years living in Seattle I never made it to 13 Coins... If I recall my coworkers kept telling me "that's where all the strange characters go"
Anyway....13 Coins had a very old school, clubby lounge like atmosphere with high backed chairs......
 
My meal begain with complimentary antipasto 
 

 
and crusty sourdough
 

 
(which I already ripped a hunk off of prior to taking this photo)

Since I'm back in the territory, I can never pass up an opportunity to enjoy a fine brew...
 

 
 
This is a Manny's Pale Ale....A little hoppier than most pale ales....All it took was one quaff...and it was a symbolic "welcome back to the Pacific Northwest.
 
With a little help after texting Buffetbuster earlier in the evening...I knew what I was getting...
 
 

 
This magnificent Crab Louis.....loaded with romaine, tomato, egg, artichoke, creamy Louis dressing and a generous helping of  fresh dungeness crab.... I was actually to full to finish it....Although I made sure I ate every last bite of dungeness crab.....
 
After my meal it was now almost 2 AM eastern time.... Although I would be staying with my friend Alan, the rest of the trip in Seattle, I deliberately stayed at a hotel that night just to get some sleep....After a 20 minute drive to my hotel in Bellevue.... I was completely exhausted and was looking forward to a sound sleep....
 
 
I will continue early next week with the next chapter.
#1

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    Michael Hoffman
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/02 19:49:55 (permalink)
    First of all, your trip reports are never ignored, and are always enjoyed. Second, thanks for the visit to the 13 Coins at SeaTac. I love that place, especially the high-backed "stools" overlooking the line.
    #2
    joerogo
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/02 20:34:39 (permalink)
    wanderingjew, Funny, you say 13 Coins is where all the strange characters go, then, Michael Hoffman says how much he loves the place........just sayin
     
    I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to follow Michael's recommendation for 13 Coins on my visit.
     
    Carry on Buddy!
    #3
    Michael Hoffman
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/02 20:49:29 (permalink)
    Now, just a darned minute .... !
    #4
    agnesrob
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/02 21:09:34 (permalink)
    That Crab Louis looks so good! Can't wait for more!
    #5
    TJ Jackson
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/02 21:19:45 (permalink)
    so where in this trip did you get the PM from me that had the link to the best pizza parlors in Seattle?
    #6
    billyboy
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/02 22:25:45 (permalink)
    Looks good, WJ!  Not being familiar with Crab Louis could you describe the dressing?  Like a ranch, Thousand Island, etc...?
    #7
    Foodbme
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/02 22:52:41 (permalink)
    First of all, where did you get the crazy notion that your reports are ignored and under-appreciated???
    Nothing could be further from the truth as far as I'm concerned and I know most of us feel that way!
    Keep clickin' and tappin' that keyboard!
    #8
    leethebard
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 00:04:11 (permalink)
    Great 1st chapter. Can't wait for next installment.
    #9
    morningglory
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 04:56:05 (permalink)
    I thoroughly enjoy all your trip reports. The food in your first segment looks absolutely delicious. Hope you enjoy the rest of you trip & I look forward to your updates! You are appreciated!
    Mg
    #10
    buffetbuster
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 07:46:59 (permalink)
    You are off to a great start WJ!  When we dined at 13 Coins it was Thanksgiving Day, so it was turkey and all the fixins for us.  But, we sat at the counter, right in front of where all the Crab Louis were being prepared and they looked so good.  Since then, I have been wondering what we missed out on and know I have my answer.  Next time for sure!
     
    Looking forward to much more!
    #11
    ScreamingChicken
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 08:09:19 (permalink)
    TJ Jackson

    so where in this trip did you get the PM from me that had the link to the best pizza parlors in Seattle?
    Given his past rhapsodies on the glory of Seattle pizza I'm pretty sure he doesn't need your help.
     
    WJ, what's on 13 Coins' antipasto plate?  I see salami, tomatoes, and olives...is there maybe a mushroom (pickled?) hiding there as well?  If the menu features a larger version I'd be hard-pressed to pass it up.
    #12
    wanderingjew
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 08:23:52 (permalink)
    Thanks all.....My confidence has been fully restored!
     
    TJ
     
    I thought it was quite ironic that you sent me that list- I was at the airport in Providence ready to begin my trip- when I saw it
     
    billyboy
     
    I would compare Louis dressing to a creamier richer but less garlicky Ceaser dressing..
     
    Screaming Brad
     
    No mushroom, but you are correct with the rest (and celery too)
     
    #13
    mr chips
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 08:33:21 (permalink)
    Wished I could have met u friend.I was quite sick for a week with a nasty cold. Great report on 13 Coins.I love the hash brown and breakafast there and the Seatac location makes it convenient. Glad  u enjoyed the place.
    #14
    TJ Jackson
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 09:32:49 (permalink)
    ScreamingChicken
    TJ Jackson
    so where in this trip did you get the PM from me that had the link to the best pizza parlors in Seattle?
    Given his past rhapsodies on the glory of Seattle pizza I'm pretty sure he doesn't need your help.
    Welll aware of his feelings towards Seattle pizza, and thats EXACTLY why I sent it :-)
     
    I had no idea however that at that very moment he was on his way there :-)
    post edited by TJ Jackson - 2013/05/03 14:22:04
    #15
    Ralph Melton
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 10:52:25 (permalink)
    I do appreciate your trip reports.
     
    I have a soft spot for 13 Coins. It's a great example of a distinctive local place that isn't in the common diner mold. And the Crab Louis I had there was excellent.
    #16
    EdSails
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 11:27:54 (permalink)
    It's always good to see a new report from you, Dale. I enjoyed Seattle the one time I was there, so I'm looking forward to seeing if I hit any spots you keep.
    #17
    Sundancer7
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 13:28:59 (permalink)
    WJ is right about folks ignoring his travels.  I think I missed one three or four years ago. 
     
    Seriously I always enjoy Dale's travels and I only wish I could have been with him.
     
    Paul E. Smith
    Knoxville, TN
    #18
    SeamusD
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 15:18:02 (permalink)
    I don't ever recall seeing mushrooms of any kind on 13 Coins' antipasto plate, maybe pickles. Definitely a hit as an appetizer, the bread is really good too.
    #19
    mikeam
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/03 15:47:49 (permalink)
    I love your reports and look forward to this one.
    #20
    Root-Beer Man
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/04 09:19:34 (permalink)
    I am looking forward to the rest of this report, WJ. It may well be the closest I get to Seattle for some time.
    #21
    lleechef
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/04 14:40:05 (permalink)
    Thank you for a trip report.  A lot of us missed you!! 
    #22
    wanderingjew
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/06 13:37:30 (permalink)
    Thanks again everyone. I almost thought I was going to have to delay the rest of the report- I had some computer issues (my fault) and hadn't uploaded all of my photos to flickr yet- after spending over an hour on the phone with dell tech support (glad I still had my warrantee)  those issues have been resolved -
    -
    Mr Chips
     
    I was wondering why I hadn't heard from you- hope you're better now.
    -
    I hope to continue with the report this evening...
    #23
    ann peeples
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/07 06:37:12 (permalink)
    Dale-you KNOW I live for your reports!I have been honored to have eaten with you 3 times now, and appreciate your opinions on the food we have shared.Carry on, my friend!
    #24
    wanderingjew
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/07 20:22:15 (permalink)
    Friday April 26
     
    Waking up to a sunny day in Seattle is a rare and special occasion.I had the morning to my self since Alan who took the day off had some business to attend to that morning. So I decided to hang out on the Eastside...I was curious about my "go to" breakfast joint when I lived there. Imagine to my surprise when I discovered that they were still in business.
     

    The Kirkland Brown Bag
     
     Located in the Totem Lake neighborhood of Kirkland, about a mile from where I lived.  Famous for their generous portions (no sissy food here) and cinnamon roll french toast, The Brown Bag was always busy on weekends.  Unfortunately their sister restaurant in neaby Redmond is out of business. When I walked in, probably the first time since 1995, it still looked exactly the same...and surprisingly had a nice sized  breakfast crowd for a weekday morning.
     

     
    Knowing how huge their portions are, I ordered off the lighter fare menu. Beginning with what was my favorite, a half order of the Banana Pecan Pancakes served with warm syrup and some protein of course- a half portion of eggs and bacon.
     

     
     
     

     
    Believe it or not this fluffy pancake is served on a dinner sized plate. A regular portion holds two and they
    even offer the option of ordering THREE pancakes...Looking around the restaurant it is obvious that they have not become stingy with the portions..

    After breakfast I headed to downtown Kirkland for some Gen-U-Wine Seattle Java.. My research led me to
     
     

     St James Espresso
     
     
    A little leary when they told me that they have a medium roast brewing, one sip and my coffee answered back with big resounding "Welcome to Seattle"....I forgot how tantalizing a lighter roast could be...Aftewards I headed to Tully's a regional coffee chain out of Seattle, their dark roast was not nearly as good as St James Espreso. While walking around I counted 4 independent coffee houses, downtown and that did not include Starbucks or Tullys.After coffee I took a stroll around my old neighborhood,
    reminiscing introspectively...

     

     
    I passed my old watering hole, the Kirkland Roaster and Alehouse which is now the Wild Rover Irish Pub(next door was the Hales Ale Brewery
      
     
     

      
      
     

     
     
    Alan called and he just returned home from his meeting. I headed across the I-90 bridge to Seattle since the 520 bridge now has an automated toll that my rental car company wanted to charge me $10 a day for- no way! Arriving at Alan's Condo in the Wallingford neighborhood- We walked over to Fremont passing  the troll that lives under the Fremont Bridge
     

     
    ..Yes that's a real volkswagen that he has grasped in his left hand...Our first stop was a place that I last visited in 2007
     


    Theo's Chocolate Factory


    housed in the former Red Hook Brewery (now in suburban Woodinville) and Trollyman's Pub. Both a chocolate factory and shop, they offer creative chocolates and even a tour of the factory as well as samples of their product...Unfortunately they were not conducting a tour when we arrived...I did not get any photos of the chocolate but I will return before I leave on Monday...
     
    There were many fairs and festivals when I lived in Seattle, Folklife, Bumbershoot, Bite of Seattle, Seafair etc...One thing they all had in common was this amazingly delicious salmon sandwich. Over the years I forgot who the vendor was, well with a click of the internet...there it is....
     



    Ballard Brothers Seafood and Burgers
     
    ....Located in the old Scandinavian enclave of Ballard This motif even pays homage to the Scand-i-hoovian influence.
     

     
     

     
    Their menu  obviously mostly seafood ..
     

     

     
     
     
    I ordered the Blackened Cajun Salmon Sandwich which comes with grilled onions, cajun sauce and tartar sauce....
     

     
    This monstrious mess, was just as amazingly delicious as I remembered...Cooked fresh to order it's obvious that there are some Scandinavian fisherman nearby who nabbed this fresh slab of salmon .Fries came on the side, of course dipped in tartar as a local would...Alan ordered the clam strips....

    After lunch we returned to and walked around the Wallingford neighborhood. It's always exhilarating to navigate those hills- something we don't have here in Rhode Island...Since the Ballpark, Safeco Field is only 5 miles away, we decided to take the bus downtown since the buses run late.....Here's a photo of Alan as we're waiting for the bus...
     

     
    We decided to get off downtown, it was 15 minute walk to our dinner stop.
     

     
    The Phnom Penh Noodle House
     
     
    in the international district....
     

     
    We shared a duck appetizer called "Tiah Pa Lau"  served with pickled veggies and ginger soy.
     
     
     
    I ordered the tender duck noodle soup, and this duck was quite tender- the broth had a cilantro-garlic base, and bean sprouts came on the side to add at will.... Hot Chili Sauce and Satay were the condiments that were offered on the side, but this soup didn't need any...It was pure southeast asian comfort food... 
      
     


    After dinner we walked to Safeco field..It was beautiful evening, even though it was nearly 70 degrees during the day, I was glad I brought my jacket...I forgot how picturesque Safeco Field was......with the Seattle Skyline at bay....we did have upper level seating but better to enjoy the view if the game gets boring...
     

     

     
     

     

     
     
    As you can see, the stadium has a retractable roof for those rainy days, but it still feels like an outdoor stadium (unlike Miller Park in Milwaukee)The Mariners hosted the LA Angels....and without any offense , the Angels walked all over the Mariners with a score of 6-3....
     

     
     

     

     

     
     
    After the game we took the bus back to Alan's place , I got to plop my 6'2" frame into a love seat in the living room (yes - no couch!) and called it a night....
     
     
    More to come....later this week...
    post edited by wanderingjew - 2013/05/08 08:12:19
    #25
    Michael Hoffman
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/07 20:30:29 (permalink)
    Great! Keep it going. (Naturally, you just had to slip in a ballpark visit.)
    #26
    ChiTownDiner
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/07 20:32:35 (permalink)
    The salmon sandwich looked really good...would have been one of my choices also.
    #27
    mar52
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/07 21:20:57 (permalink)
    I usually wait until the end of your reports to comment but the Vietnamese food brought me out.
     
    Dale, I always love your reports.  You bring so much to them besides just Road Food.  Always very interesting and when you're done with one I anxiously await the next.
     
    I learn a lot from your reports.  I will now never order tender duck noodle soup!   
     
    Keep 'em coming!
    #28
    BuddyRoadhouse
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/07 22:53:44 (permalink)
    Very nice report.  Believe it or not, though, the thing that stuck out most to me was the lovely brickwork on the Theo Chocolate Company building.
     
    And the salmon burger looked nice too...
     
    Buddy
    #29
    mr chips
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    Re:Stolid, Stoic, Standoffish, Scandinavian Seattle 2013/05/07 23:13:58 (permalink)
    That looks like Cambodian food to me.
    #30
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