RE: Sunday Gravy
Fri, 01/20/06 7:40 AM
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We used to make marinara, and we used to make tomato sauce. Marinara is a quickly cooked sauce containing nothing but: olive oil, garlic, onions, plum tomatoes, salt, pepper, oregano, fresh basil and crushed red pepper. It's very light, and very loose, and is designed to be reduced in the pan before the pasta is added.
We used to make tomato sauce (this was in a restaurant, of course, so not all of this stuff would be readily available at home) with: some veal bones (the ankle, below the osso buco), pork bones and/or skin, very coarsely chopped onions, carrots, garlic and celery, some prosciutto skin, red wine, plum tomatoes, oregano, bay leaves, red pepper, s&p. If the spirit moved me I'd toss in some rind from a reggianito parmigiana. It cooked for about three hours. And before anyone says anything, this has no sausage or bracciole or meatballs, because this is the base sauce for cooking them.
The big difference is this: sure, you can put tomato sauce on your pasta, but many people find it too heavy. Personally, I find a well-made marinara on fresh tagiatelle to be one of man's great achievments. Tomato (red, Sunday, gravy) sauce is for making other stuff.
It's what you should use when you make baked pastas such as lasagna or baked ziti. It's what belongs on top of the meat and below the cheese in chicken/veal/eggplant parmigiana. It's what you should cook your bracciole, meatballs and sausage in. The reason is that in these preparations, if marinara is used it doesn't add enough flavor and, most importantly, it waters out the dish. If you eat lasagna and it's all "broken" and soggy, that's probably the culprit.
The key to either of these sauces, but especially marinara, is the right tomato product. You'll never get what you want with generic American tomatoes, or crushed tomatoes, or anything else but Italian San Marzano plum tomatoes. If you have dead-ripe fresh plums, and they're good (some of the newer cultivars have, even when ripe, the consistency of golf balls). The whole idea is that the tomatoes quickly break up and melt into a silky, delicate sauce that doesn't require tomato paste.
Marinara recipes calling for sugar, wine, thyme, dried basil, tomato paste, long cooking or cheese are just inauthentic.