The Real Swanky Franks is Back!!
Wed, 05/24/06 11:48 PM
(
permalink)
They're back and better than ever...
Norwalk's Swanky Franks is swankier than before
By KATHRYN HIGGINS
Hour Correspondent
If you've seen Swanky Franks, right on Route 1 in Norwalk off of I-95 Exit 14, you may have been taken aback by its utilitarian façade and dirt parking lot. It looks like a truck stop from the rural South has plopped down in the middle of suburban Fairfield County. But if you decide to give it a try this weekend, you'll be fighting the Range Rovers for a spot on the dirt, as suburban families discover what truckers and traveling salesmen have known all along: Nothing beats a deep-fried hotdog with a grilled bun, hand-cut french-fries and a milkshake on a Saturday afternoon.
On a typical weekend day, Swanky Frank's serves 50 pounds of hot dogs (that's about 400), about 150 pounds of their hand cut French fries (they use a hand crank machine to cut them there in the restaurant) and about 30 pounds of ground beef for burgers. That may not add up to "billions and billions served," but if the parking lot is any proof, it's barely keeping up with Fairfield County's demand for the home-cooked food they serve at the restaurant.
According to owner Drew Satterfield, this diner/hot dog stand/seafood shack has been a Norwalk landmark since 1953, when his grandfather, World War II veteran Alexander Renzuella, bought the then drive-up stand. Renzuella added an indoor seating area in the late '50s, and Swanky Frank's graduated to "restaurant" status. Satterfield's grandmother, Eleanor, worked there with her husband, helping to devise special recipes for chili and strawberry shortcake, and his mother, Bunny (married name Satterfield), also worked there after finishing college.
In the mid 1980s, the Renzuella/Satterfield dynasty decided to take a hiatus, so they leased Swanky Franks out to other restaurateurs. They were not always happy with the way others ran their restaurant, so they decided to take it back this year. They closed the place down, renovated it completely and just re-opened in April with grandson Drew at the helm.
Short order cook Ed Forcier started working for Drew's grandfather at the age of 14 in 1975. When the family left the business, Forcier went to work for South Norwalk Electric & Water. Then, after 26 years, Drew Satterfield called to tell him the family was re-opening the restaurant and invited him back. Now he's running the grill again.
"I've always had visions of coming back here some day," he said.
"The restaurant under Drew's grandfather was all about friendly service, quality food, and keeping the place neat and clean," added Forcier, indicating his shiny new kitchen.
Renzuella's ideals are not the only things in renaissance at Swanky Frank's. Satterfield and Forcier are reintroducing the home-style recipes that Alexander and Eleanor Renzuella used to make Swanky Franks popular.
One of Forcier's favorites is the Chili Dog.
"Drew's grandmother had a recipe for chili that we brought back," he said. "It was a favorite with the customers. A lot of the old customers have come back and they've complimented it."
Swanky Franks is fast food that isn't made fast.
"Everything in the place is home made," said Satterfield. "French fries, onion rings, macaroni salad. The seafood is hand-breaded."
The onion rings are particularly involved, according to Satterfield. They slice the onions into rings and coat them with flour, egg and a secret breadcrumb recipe before deep frying them. And the French fry hand crank is a labor intensive way to make fresh fries in the restaurant, in an era when most just chuck a bag of frozen fries into the vat.
The Swanky Franks alter-ego is New England seaside seafood shack. They serve a variety of fried seafood dinners and "buns," including shrimp, scallops, clam strip, belly clam and sole.
Swanky Franks is known for its fried hot dogs, but according to Forcier, the split and grilled dogs are becoming more popular. Other classics on the menu are Philly cheese steak sandwiches, grilled chicken, sausage and peppers, tuna fish, chicken tenders and BLTs. And the "Extras": bacon, kraut, grilled onions and grilled peppers. The grilled chicken is popular with the more health-conscious customers.
Scott Rowe is a traveling salesmen who can be found at Swanky Franks three or four times a week. He brings his laptop computer and works there after he eats and is on a first-name basis with all the employees. He appreciates the convenience, friendly service and homemade food.
"In the days of McDonald's, Burger King and Wendy's, it's nice to have a family owned 'fast food' place," he said.