RE: Tomatoes!
Tue, 08/9/05 5:08 PM
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Here's a column I wrote a few years ago about a staple of my wife's family...which, in fact, we're having tonight!
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If you haven’t noticed yet, seasons in New Mexico are as much a state of mind as they are a meteorological reality. Unlike those parts of the country where Labor Day weekend was the official end of summer not because you’re not allowed to wear white anymore but because it’s turned cold and wet, New Mexico summers usually last until the Balloon Fiesta, which almost invariably brings icy winds, rain and occasionally the first snow of the year. September’s both Back To School Month and Chile Roasting Month, but in a lot of ways, it’s still a continuation of July and August. Most importantly, September is the month when those tomato plants you put in back in May pretty much explode, leaving you with an overflowing basket on the kitchen counter filled with more tomatoes than you think you could ever possibly use.
But you should at least make the effort, since these are the last decent tomatoes you’re going to see until at least next July. Most (some sources say up to 95%!) supermarket tomatoes are picked green, gassed with ethylene (an organic chemical produced naturally in ripening tomatoes, apples, pears and other fruits) and shipped to stores well before they’re ready to be eaten, which accounts for their mealy texture and uninspired taste. They get a little better if you allow them to ripen a bit more in a brown paper bag on the kitchen counter, but they’ll never match the flavor, texture or juiciness of a perfectly vine-ripened tomato.
A ripe tomato is obscenely juicy, and the best dishes find a way to harness this juiciness, like a tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil salad in which the olive oil and balsamic vinegar combine with the tomato juice to create an amazingly sweet and tart dressing. A similar bit of culinary magic happens in a dish that’s a hot-weather staple with my wife’s family, Summer Pasta. They say that behind every great fortune lies a great crime, which is certainly true here: my wife flat-out stole this recipe when she was working the counter at a copy shop in Harvard Square. A customer had come in to get copies of a small personal cookbook and she surreptitiously made an extra for herself after reading this recipe. Since this happened over 20 years ago, I’m pretty sure the statute of limitations has expired. Still, keep an eye on those Kinko’s folks – you never know.
SUMMER PASTA
The longer the sauce sits, the better. For best results, make the sauce in the morning and leave it, covered, on the counter while you’re at work. Your kitchen will smell like a garlic factory by the time you get home. This is a good thing. A mixture of Swiss and mozzarella can be substituted for the Fontina.
Makes 4 servings
Prep time: 15 minutes (plus waiting)
Cooking time: 10 minutes
2 pounds ripe tomatoes (approx. 6 cups, chopped)
1 bunch fresh basil, chopped fine
1 jalapeno, seeded and minced (optional)
4-6 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
1 1/2 pounds rotini or similar shaped pasta
1/2 cup Romano cheese, grated
1/2 pound Fontina cheese, shredded
1. Chop tomatoes finely, taking care to keep as much of the juice as possible. Add chopped basil, minced jalapeno, garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper. Stir well and cover.
2. Let the tomato-basil mixture sit, unrefrigerated, for at least 1 and up to 12 hours, allowing the tomato juice, oil, garlic, basil and jalapeno to mingle freely. It will become appallingly soupy from the tomato juice. This is what you want.
3. Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain.
4. Pull about a cup of the oil and juice out of the tomato-basil mixture. Toss with the hot pasta and cheeses until the pasta is evenly coated and the cheeses are slightly melted. Gently stir in the remainder of the tomato-basil mixture, toss lightly and serve at room temperature with garlic bread.