Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3)

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ayersian
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Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Tue, 07/8/08 11:01 PM
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And now for the wrap-up!

Day 9:
Knowing that a large chunk of Day 9 would be spent driving, we fueled up with some Tim Horton’s coffee and a small box of Tim Bits. We enjoy the fact that you don’t have to buy a huge box of donut holes at TH’s. This was a box of 10.


Our first break of the day came in Oxford, Nova Scotia, the blueberry capital of Canada. We stopped in at the Visitors’ Center to peruse the displays and took a few blueberry and maple products to go. On the way out of town, Chris just had to pose with the world’s biggest blueberry.


Our stomachs were grumbling by the time we reached Sackville, New Brunswick, home of Mt. Allison University. As we rolled into town, we saw that several places were closed on Sundays. We did, however, find the lights on at Mel’s Tea room.

A dozen booths are squeezed into the back of a small general store/soda fountain. The menu was pretty diner-standard, and we decided to order a grilled cheese, cheese dog, and the poutine.
All of the food was tasty and the conversation we had with the cook/waitress/busboy was even better (“Oh no! If I had known you were from Connecticut, I would have tried to get your food out sooner!”).

Eventually we made our way to Fundy National Park. We had driven through a few years ago, and had been yearning to return for a longer visit. As soon as we set up our tent, we hit the trail for some gorgeous views…

…stopping only to snack on our favorite Canadian candy bar:



Day 10:
We had hoped to hit up Kelly’s Bakery right outside the park gates for some of their famous sticky buns in the morning, but the bakery didn’t open until 10:00 and we had a lot of ground to cover. So instead we saved our stomach capacity for a stop in Saint John. After walking around the downtown for a bit, we headed over to the city market to look around.

After weighing our options, we decided to go with the fishcakes. We had to wait 20 minutes for them to be made, but it was worth the wait!

Chris also picked up the smallest bag of dulce (a dried seaweed that some folks supposedly eat like potato chips), which turned out to be too large. The salty seawater taste just wasn’t for us.
(We later tried to get the Customs official to confiscate the seaweed, but she wasn’t interested)

Although most folks drive back to Maine via the border crossing at St. Stephen, we decided to do a little island hopping. We first took a free ferry from Blacks Harbor to Deer Island, NB, and then another ferry over to Campobello Island. The East Quoddy lighthouse is at the northern tip of the island and is one of the most photographed lighthouses in the world.

Campobello Island’s claim to fame is that F.D.R. and his family used to vacation there. The Roosevelt Campobello International Park is the only historical site/park that is jointly owned by 2 countries.


After touring Roosevelt’s home, we headed across the bridge and back into Maine. We had hoped to stop at Wild Blueberry Land for a piece of their blueberry pie, but were saddened to find that they didn’t open for another week (do you sense a theme here?). We snapped a picture anyway.

Although there were several points of interest closed in the off-season, one of the advantages was that there were plenty of inexpensive places to stay in Bar Harbor, ME. Due to the rain, we checked into a motel and then headed into town for dinner and a movie at Reel Pizza Cinerama. You order your food at the counter, then take a seat inside (either in a regular theater chair or drag a TV tray up to one of the couches in front). When your order is ready, your number lights up on the bingo board.

The pizza choices are eclectic, including toppings like smoked mussels, smoked salmon, and macadamia nuts. We chose something more subdued: the Godzilla with hot sausage, pepperoni, onions, mushrooms, and tomatos.


Day 11:
Although the weather was drizzly, we managed to get in a short hike at Acadia National Park in the morning. Sadly, however, it was too foggy outside to get any good pictures (luckily we could close our eyes and think of previous visits!). We had no trouble, however, taking pictures of our lunch at the Jordan Pond House inside the park.

The Jordan Pond House is at the top of our list when visiting Acadia, and no visit is complete without one of their famous popovers

A review is forthcoming, but here’s a shot of their blueberry crisp topped with…what else? Blueberry ice cream!


Before heading out of town, we stopped at Mt. Desert Ice Cream to sample a few flavors. We were sad to have discovered this gem post-Ice Cream Tour because it was fantastic! One of the best parts was the inventive line-up of flavors, including everything from Pop Tarts to Doritos! Our favorite (without hesitation) was the Salted Caramel. Words cannot describe…


On our way back south, we stopped one of our favorite Maine eateries, Big Gs in Winslow. We reviewed Big G’s in the past (http://www.roadfood.com/Reviews/Overview.aspx?RefID=3657), but wanted to snap some pictures that would do these mega-sandwiches justice. We each ordered a half-sandwich and could only finish half of a half. These pictures are of the Governor Baldacci on rye, with pastrami, ham, pepperoni, onions, marinated mushrooms, tomatoes, and melted provolone cheese on top

and the Mel's Dinner on Pumpernickel, which was a chicken salad sandwich layered with sweet potato fries, cole slaw, onions, and melted cheddar.


By the time we made it to our final destination for the night, we had carved out just enough room for a soft serve cone at our favorite stop: Norway Soft Serve in South Paris, ME. The front lot is packed with patrons in the summer months, but once winter comes around, it changes over to a car dealership lot!


Days 12 and 13:
We spent the last 2 days of vacation visiting with our friends Sarah, Amanda, and Kelly and re-visited Tubby’s for some ice cream
and hot dogs


On our way out of Maine, we stopped in Portland, hoping to have lunch at one of our old favorite restaurants, Woody’s. We were sad to find that Woody’s had closed, but were intrigued by its successor: Duckfat. It was as if the Duckfat menu had read our minds, as everything on the menu looked delicious! We shared a meatloaf panini and an order of their signature fries (cooked in duckfat!,

and then tried the churros with spicy chocolate dipping sauce for dessert!



2,500 total miles.
13 days.
5 islands.
3 Canadian provinces.
2 countries.
Whew.

wanderingjew
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Tue, 07/8/08 11:05 PM
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Thanks alot-

I was looking at those photos right before I was about to go to sleep
Now you know what I'll be dreaming about all night!

billyboy
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Tue, 07/8/08 11:45 PM
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You two have GOT to be kidding me!! Mel's Dinner? I think someone at Big G's has been reading Primanti Bros.' diary!! I want that sandwich right now!! Great, great pics and narrative! I love the pizza and cinema place. I wonder if there are more of them. Blueberry crisp AND blueberry crumble, mmmmmmmm. Sigh... Thanks so much for taking us along!

Slim Strummer
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 12:00 AM
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As with all good trip reports, ya make me want to go myself.

Just fantastic. Thanks.

--Alex

bajohnston
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 2:09 AM
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glad to see mels tearoom get some love. god i have eaten there so many times. they have really good tiny burgers.

Sundancer7
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 7:27 AM
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I made a very similar trip a couple of years ago. I caught the ferry from Portland to Nova Scotia, spent the night in Halifax, drove around Cape Breton, spent the night in New Glasgow, caught the ferry to PEI, crossed the bridge in to New Brunswick and I crossed the border back into Maine at St. Stephens.

I spent a couple of nights in Bar Harbour. There was a place in downtown Bar Harbour that sold fresh soft serve blueberry ice cream and a place next door that sold blue berry beer.

I drove the coast back to Portland but I stopped at Youngs Lobster Pound in Belfast. Great fresh lobster right out of the stainless steel holding tanks that was irrigated with fresh seawater right out of the bay.

Your pictures were super. Too bad you did not get to Cadillac Mountain.

Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN

ayersian
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 9:25 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Sundancer7

Too bad you did not get to Cadillac Mountain.


Sadly not on this trip, although we have certainly been before. In fact, a few years ago I thought it would be a good idea to go up on the first day of summer to see the sunrise atop Cadillac...just failed to take into consideration that this meant getting up at some ungodly time in the 3:00 hour!

A

Tony Bad
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 10:03 AM
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Chris and/or Amy, outstanding reports and photos!

You went to some of my favorite places. I have spent many days hiking around Fundy park, and have eaten many of Kelly's sticky buns as well. I cannot place where the pictures of Fundy were taken..are they from the Goose River trail?

The ferry through deer island to Campobello is definitely a nice way to go.

The picture of the Tim Bits reminded me of how I have always thought they were oddly named. Tim Horton was a hockey player killed in a car wreck. I cannot help but think that the name "Tim Bits" is just a bit of an odd choice of a name considering how he died. I mean, there could be bits of Tim scattered about somewhere.

Nancypalooza
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 10:22 AM
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LOLOL Tony.

Yeah, the blueberry crumble undid me, but then those sandwiches and the hot dog. And what do you do with fiddleheads exactly? And how awesome is a place called Duckfat? Beautiful work guys.

susanll
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 10:33 AM
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Fiddleheads are the uncurled leaves of the ostrich fern. Typically, they are sauteed in oil or served in a salad. I haven't tried them myself, but I have heard they taste something like aspargus.

leethebard
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 10:54 AM
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Fiddleheads...wow...live and learn...that was a great report...great looking trip...great looking food!!!Fishvakes did look like they were worth waiting for!!!!

CajunKing
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 12:12 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by wanderingjew

Thanks alot-

I was looking at those photos right before I was about to go to sleep
Now you know what I'll be dreaming about all night!


Yeah, I dreamt about Godzilla with blueberry crisp and ice cream.



Chris/Amy

I loved this trip you took, some great places to visit and some AWESOME food.

How was the meatloaf panini??? That just sounded good, I wish more places had a meatloaf sandwich on their menu.

Nothing in this world like a leftover meatloaf sandwich.

I am glad you had such a great trip.

seafarer john
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 2:31 PM
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We stayed a night , tent camping, in early July (maybe 1970 the year of a solar eclipse which was why we drove to the Maritimes to see it) at Fundy National Park - a dark and windy and stormy night. The only other campers were a half dozen very well behaved motorcyclers, and a young couple with a weird pop-up tent attached to their Volkswagen Beetle. The best thing was the shelters with great big old fashioned iron cooking stoves and stacks of hardwood ready for use. We had a big lobster pot that we'd hauled along for a couple of thousand miles and never used, so we decided now was the time! I drove into town to get a lobster - out of luck! No lobsters; something about a ban because of something or other. But a guy overheard me asking and in a very good imitation of "I Spy" he dragged me round to an alley and produced a sack of very large lobsters. I chose a 6 or 7 pounder and headed back to the cook-along. Gail had a big fire going, it was warm and cozy in the shelter and we had a great lobster meal that evening. And the boys had a ball in a glass sheltered salt water pool near our campsite.

Chris and Amy, we have thoroughly enjoyed your report on your recent tour of the Maritimes.

BTW: Sometime soon, date yet to be set, we will be joining a few other roadfooders with a stop at Big W in Wingdale. That's not all that far from where you guys live- why not consider joining up with us - and you could stop at the "Circle Sculpture Park" on your way...

Cheers, John

Cheers, John

Tony Bad
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 2:40 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by seafarer john

We stayed a night , tent camping, in early July (maybe 1970 the year of a solar eclipse which was why we drove to the Maritimes to see it) at Fundy National Park - a dark and windy and stormy night. The only other campers were a half dozen very well behaved motorcyclers, and a young couple with a weird pop-up tent attached to their Volkswagen Beetle. The best thing was the shelters with great big old fashioned iron cooking stoves and stacks of hardwood ready for use. We had a big lobster pot that we'd hauled along for a couple of thousand miles and never used, so we decided now was the time! I drove into town to get a lobster - out of luck! No lobsters; something about a ban because of something or other. But a guy overheard me asking and in a very good imitation of "I Spy" he dragged me round to an alley and produced a sack of very large lobsters. I chose a 6 or 7 pounder and headed back to the cook-along. Gail had a big fire going, it was warm and cozy in the shelter and we had a great lobster meal that evening. And the boys had a ball in a glass sheltered salt water pool near our campsite.


Oh Seafaring One,

I know those stoves that you write about. I spent many evenings in those shacks dodging rain. Rain was a common occurrence at my many trips to that park. I also remember my limbs going numb in that pool. The water was pumped out of the Bay of Fundy and was chilly!!

WarToad
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 3:01 PM
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Excellent trip report!

That blueberry ice cream looks like a scoop of heaven.

Baah Ben
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RE: Maine and the Maritimes (Part 3) - Wed, 07/9/08 7:31 PM
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The french fries are awesome looking. It all looks just great..Thanks for taking us along with you. I love Maine!