Mobile kitchen build info

Hello all,

most know of me via the dogger portion of this site & my food cart but I have been working towards building by mobile kitchen. As I type this I am stuck in a hotel in Ohio with about 20" of snow so naturally I am passing time with more research. I am just about finished the gutting out part of the build and probably have about a days worth of that or so left. I decided to go the box truck route rather than trailer fyi. When all is said and done I probably have equivalent to a 7 x 8'  of space to work with give or take. I will measure if I ever make it back home lol.

I removed or am removing the non metal areas such as coverings, vinyl, upholstery, etc. I plan to use steel as a backer for my cooking items on the wall and diamond plating for the floor, frp for the other areas. I have my notes for all the info I find while researching RF and I have seen a few threads on people debating what panels to use, etc and a few other trailer build back & fourths but not as much as I thought I would see. My questions are more of how to then what to. My HD is very helpful with what I must have but they cant help me on the how to. My questions are as follows. As I mentioned I am stuck in a hotel for another day so I have lots of time to search and reply to your feedback, questions, etc.

• When you are putting your wall back up is it done in this order? Wood, FRP and then in the area where I will cook steel over top that section? Or is it Insulation then wood then FRP then the steel over the cooking area? I am waiting to speak with the fire dept about any specifics they have but just getting feedback at this point.
• for an existing 2 or 3' window in the truck that is in the back can I put wood over that window and build up from that or do I have to remove the window? I want to cover the window because I want that area for shelving, etc. I will be installing a back up camera rather than use the window. I have had cameras in cars and trucks and like them much better as I can use that window space for other things. I will have to use metal over the outside part of the window otherwise it will look like a window with wood covering the inside from the customers POV. Any other ideas on this I am open to.
• The floor is the same as a bus would be, you know that type of rubber matting if you know what I am speaking of. Can I just lay insulation over that since it is already flat and then wood and then diamond plate or should I just lay the diamond plate over whats there because it already has vehicle insulation and that's good enough for the floor? Cost is an issue but I am curious as to what others think.
• As for the generator that I will use to power up how do guys get that around? I know some have built in sections on the outside of their trucks already and trailers use tongues but I will be using a portable generator. Its not the heaviest thing in the world but not the lightest either. I can't imagine lifting that in and out of the truck each day so what are the options? Only things I can think of are mount the gen on a small trailer and town behind the truck? Lift it in and out of the truck each day or possibly have someone build a cage of some kind for the front of the truck? Again keeping cost down where possible. Steam table, refrigerated prep table, warming cabinet, register, small freezer, heat lamps, inner lights, dvd and monitor, water pump, vent/exhaust hood, grill and soda dispenser are what I am planning to run at this point. Nothing will be propane. Don't want tanks in front or back of truck for people to slam into with their cars. Can't have them inside here of the truck.
• I want to start putting the walls back together and get the floor down this week "if" possible and then start on running the electric and lights, etc. The snow is a big hassle right now.

Well, that's it for now, I await your feed back and will be on and off RF most of the day while I continue to search. Any other good info of things to do that you may have learned or wish you would have done before would be helpful too.

 Any other search ideas besides

Trailer
building a trailer
insulation
trailer wiring,
gutting a trailer
trailer build
food truck build
box truck

"The floor Can I just lay insulation over that since it is already flat and then wood and then diamond plate?"

Let me tell you if your going to be operating in a cold winter climate you'd better insulate the hell out of the floor. In fact both above and below the original deck.

Last week and I mean all week the floor in my trailer was 24 degrees. This summer I'm insulating the underside with 4 inch foam panels. Today it's a cozy 35 degrees. lol

Jack

Dr of BBQ


"The floor Can I just lay insulation over that since it is already flat and then wood and then diamond plate?"

Let me tell you if your going to be operating in a cold winter climate you'd better insulate the hell out of the floor. In fact both above and below the original deck.

Last week and I mean all week the floor in my trailer was 24 degrees. This summer I'm insulating the underside with 4 inch foam panels. Today it's a cozy 35 degrees. lol

Jack

Thanks Jack. One down, many more questions to go.

The buildout on the walls is similar to any building you may be putting together. The only difference is that you have metal "studs" and "exterior Sheathing". Take it down to the "studs", insulate and put up you interior "wallboard". This would be some sort of wood sheathing, probably 1/2". I have a truck that I am also converting and it has what I call "particle board". Your FRP can be put over the sheathing using adhesive. I would not apply any wood behind your "line" since the Fire department has to have the final say on what goes there. My fire department says they require double 5/8 sheetrock. I am trying to get some information on what is done in trailers since sheetrock will not stand the test of time in a moving kitchen. I am hoping that a fire rated insulation and metal (diamond plate) sheathing and then the stainless glued to the diamond plate will be acceptable. Nothing is really flammable so we'll see what we come up with. Can anybody comment on what their trailerwalls have behind their hood system?
You can leave the window in place and cover it if you'd like. I assume that you don't want to get into filling the hole on the exterior of the truck. Paint the back of the panel black and the customer won't know what is there. "Look...A Black Hole!"
I'd go right over the floor with the diamond plate and insulate from underneath. Why build a whole new floor?
My truck has a generator mounted on the undercarriage with a startup switch inside the truck. It's a angle Iron frame mounted to the frame of the truck.  Real nice rig and no lugging. Are you restricted from having something similar. If not, the carrier for the front is viable. Did you ever see the rigs surf fishermen us for carrying there oversized coolers on the fron of their trucks.
Are you running everything on 110? Any 12 volt lights with marine batteries and an inverter?
All my lights in the truck are 12 volt. I have 4 marine batteries and an inverter.
I don't see any mention of water. 3 Bay sink and handsink required in Massachusetts.
I believe all of you wiring is going to have to be enclosed in conduit.
 
Good luck with you conversion. I'm glad to have found someone going through a similar project.
 

Ok now I have more time I have all but one special order for S Bowl parties done.

Not sure what you mean by FRP but in a truck the weight factor isn’t as important as in a trailer; even so don’t use full ¼ inch plywood and then metal over that.

 Just insulate your walls, I’d use foam again and cover with what ever hard surface you’ve chosen.

My first choice is stainless steel although on my rebuild of a box truck, I’m using aluminum, on the walls and ceiling.

On the generator thing I’m not knowledgeable to help you, I have one in my box truck, but I haven’t started the unit and not sure I want it in the truck. First they are noisy, (most are) if there inside and more importantly I need the floor space. So I’m moving mine to my smoker trailer and pulling it behind my truck.

A little off track but maybe not. Our city has never sanctioned a St Patrick’s Day party but they do hold a parade. Since the parade is down town and so are about 6 or 8 popular bars the streets are blocked off and over the years a giant annual inside and outside party (6000 people) has erupted. 

So I CALLED THE CITY AND the parade chair, the zoning department, the health department and they all said we don’t care. LOL However the parade chair said the parade committee would like a donation so I’ll send them a check for $150.00.

Now here is why this may apply, when I called city light and power about using a power box downtown, they said they will hook up power at one of the midblock event boxes for $100.00 , and leave it hooked up for a week, with no charge for the electricity used. And I have been vending for a long time and never knew city water light and power would set up power like that.  So you may want to check where ever you’re going to be parking the truck to find out all the options before you go the generator route. Now  after discovering this about downtown hook ups I’m not sure around here I’d ever use a generator.

Hope this helps
Jack

PS On electricity put in way more outlet boxes and a much bigger service than you think you need, you'll never have too many.

Oh yeah...while your stripped down to the studs...why not rough in your wiring to where it need to be? Just like any building? This was done on my truck in the corners where the roof meets the walls and then enclosed in a moulding. Wires were brought down the walls inside the desired area of framing and holes cut in wallboard where needed. All recepticles are flush mounted and wiring is concealed. No need for the conduit. 

knifeguy


The buildout on the walls is similar to any building you may be putting together. The only difference is that you have metal "studs" and "exterior Sheathing". Take it down to the "studs", insulate and put up you interior "wallboard". This would be some sort of wood sheathing, probably 1/2". I have a truck that I am also converting and it has what I call "particle board". Your FRP can be put over the sheathing using adhesive. I would not apply any wood behind your "line" since the Fire department has to have the final say on what goes there. My fire department says they require double 5/8 sheetrock. I am trying to get some information on what is done in trailers since sheetrock will not stand the test of time in a moving kitchen. I am hoping that a fire rated insulation and metal (diamond plate) sheathing and then the stainless glued to the diamond plate will be acceptable. Nothing is really flammable so we'll see what we come up with. Can anybody comment on what their trailerwalls have behind their hood system?
You can leave the window in place and cover it if you'd like. I assume that you don't want to get into filling the hole on the exterior of the truck. Paint the back of the panel black and the customer won't know what is there. "Look...A Black Hole!"
I'd go right over the floor with the diamond plate and insulate from underneath. Why build a whole new floor?
My truck has a generator mounted on the undercarriage with a startup switch inside the truck. It's a angle Iron frame mounted to the frame of the truck.  Real nice rig and no lugging. Are you restricted from having something similar. If not, the carrier for the front is viable. Did you ever see the rigs surf fishermen us for carrying there oversized coolers on the front of their trucks.
Are you running everything on 110? Any 12 volt lights with marine batteries and an inverter?
All my lights in the truck are 12 volt. I have 4 marine batteries and an inverter.
I don't see any mention of water. 3 Bay sink and hand sink required in Massachusetts.
I believe all of you wiring is going to have to be enclosed in conduit.
 
Good luck with you conversion. I'm glad to have found someone going through a similar project.
 

Hi, good info to add to my growing list. I thank you. I did not mention the sinks, etc because I assume everyone knew they would go in. I mentioned my water pump because I was thinking of everything I could that was electrical

I guess I could try to run my lights and pump with the 12v. My pump was run 12v on my cart so I could do it in the mobile unit. As time goes on I will post pics along the way but right now it is so ugly being gutted that I'm embarrassed lol.

I see it being enough room to mount anything under the truck so I probably will go the front cage mount.
I see your floor point, that's exactly why I was getting feedback. I did not want to rebuild the floor but wanted to ask just to could feedback and opinions. So it looks like unless others chime in with another point that i will just put insulation down on the floor and then diamond plate over top. Does that sound right? The walls strip down as far as I can as in to studs, insulate, put up wood  and then frp. I would just have a section of steel on the wall where my cooking stuff would be.

I don't quite understand your window comment. I don't think I would like the blk whole look. I planned to just leave it there and put insulation over it (windows get cold) and then metal over it to cover it. I would paint the metal to match the truck when done. It would look like those trucks I have seen from the factory that have metal but a kinda circle pattern as in where a window would go if they wanted to put one. Sheet metal kinda look for lack of a better term. I'm sorry but I can't think of the name of the metal if its not called sheet metal. It looks like whats on the outside on cargo mini vans and trailer. It looks just like the metal on the outside of the truck now. I would just get a 3 or 4' section square and cover it and then paint it later when I paint the truck. Since I am stuck in this hotel I will walk outside and snag a pic of the back window I am talking about. See that's another cool thing about having a truck over the trailer I was going to get, I can drive the truck lol. That's what I am driving now :-). Let me walk outside and grab the pic. Here is the huge window that I am going to cover, I can use all that space for lots of stuff.

 I can hear the plow guys outside, they decided to make it over here after I already paid for another night. Bastards lol.

knifeguy


This would be some sort of wood sheathing, probably 1/2". I have a truck that I am also converting and it has what I call "particle board". Your FRP can be put over the sheathing using adhesive. I would not apply any wood behind your "line" since the Fire department has to have the final say on what goes there. My fire department says they require double 5/8 sheetrock. I am trying to get some information on what is done in trailers since sheetrock will not stand the test of time in a moving kitchen. I am hoping that a fire rated insulation and metal (diamond plate) sheathing and then the stainless glued to the diamond plate will be acceptable.

Your fire department is reading a building code for a restaurant in a BUILDING. God some zoning and city inspectors would not be able to earn a living if they had any other job. Your truck or trailer is not a building, and those codes do not apply, but they don't likely have any codes for building a mobile food unit so we will force you to use these codes that are for something else.

The double sheetrock code is a BOCA Code (Building Officials and Code Administrators) to stop fire from spreading to the next room. Dumb as a box of rocks, when applied to a truck or trailer unit. But that said you don't need nor would it serve any purpose to double the wall behind your cooking utensils. I would suggest that you suggest to them a metal wall with a 3 inch dead air space between it and the outside skin of your truck body.

What are you using to cover your walls diamond plate or stainless steel?

Man once you go through this with all the inspectors from zoning, fire, and who ever else, the health department people are like a blessing. Most know what they are doing and will work with you on issues.

Jack

That'sMyDawg

I think what knifeguy was talking about was  is leave the window in place, and if necessary paint it black on the inside so you can't see the insulation or anything else from the outside. Then just cover the inside window wall as planned. You'll save a headache and money. From the outside it'll look like a tinted window no big deal.
Jack

My wall covering are FRP except behind the cooking line.
I think that the dead air space is a good suggestion. My walls are 2.5 inces thick as is. If I put some spacers in and brought it out to three, I wouldnt lose anymore space, its an easy fix and like I said before, Nothing is gonna catch on fire back there anyway.

The fix on the window is just like you stated. It'll look tinted and will have a nicer appearance that a patch job.
Thanks for the information.

Knife guy
First propose 2.5 inch dead space that will work just as well. I'd try not to over build nor use anymore space than I had to. When your going through the building process it looks like you have all the room in the world but down the road you'll wish you could find another half inch. Just go to your building inspector and suggest a 2.5 inch dead air space and then he may want a 3 inch but if he is thoughtful he will ok the 2.5 inch.

Building a mobile food unit is like building a three car garage, when you first open the door and look in you think "OK this is cool plenty of room".

Then a year later your looking for extra storage space because your garage is too small. LOL

Jack

PS California has the most stringent building codes in the country and the most diverse. Most building and fire and safety guys are well aware of this fact. If you run into a jam on something else call one of the step van or trailer builders out there and ask how they handle it. Then you can go back to your building or fire and safety guys and say here is how they do it in California. But if you don't like the answer from the cost don't mention it.

Sorry I didn't address the situation regarding my walls behind the cooking equipment.
Stainless steel is the finish wall. I want to be able to glue that on so that I have a smooth surface for cleaning. No screws etc. The idea of the double wall is to provide some rigidity and backing for the stainless. Because the "studs" are 16" OC and the stainless is not very rigid, I think a diamond plate backing will provide the support as well as a surface to apply the adhesive. It is also the only option I can think of that will provide both of these and remain nonflammable.
Any other suggestion on a backing material or way of installing the Stainless?

Dr of BBQ


That'sMyDawg

I think what knifeguy was talking about was  is leave the window in place, and if necessary paint it black on the inside so you can't see the insulation or anything else from the outside. Then just cover the inside window wall as planned. You'll save a headache and money. From the outside it'll look like a tinted window no big deal.
Jack

Yeah, now I get it.... I totally get it. Will need to check to see if anyone has a problem with a window not being a window AND because it will look like limo tint I don't want cops pulling me over for it. Here you can't have dark tinted windows so they may think it is tint until I tell them it is not what it seems. It may work and would be much cheaper!  Great idea Mr. Knife lol. psssst, way to clear it up Dr.

Well I used a new material that is made here in Springfield. It's a 1/4 inch plastic sheeting that has the same design as a corrugated box wall, and then a thin sheet of stainless steel glued to the out side. It's neat stuff and not overly expensive.

A lot of the companies that are building giant walk in coolers (big meat companies) are now using this product.

But the guy that invented it and manufactures it is again here in Springfield and he doesn't sell it to Lowes or stores like that. Where do you live, it may or may not be worth the trip to pick up some.

Otherwise I'd buy stainless that was thick enough to be rigid and use stainless steel self taping screws. I used SS screws to mount my stainless in my trailer. If you double the wall your doubleing the weight and expense. In fact check the price, labor, on diamond plate and the thin SS against a thicker SS single wall covering with no diamond plate. I hope you understand that. LOL

knifeguy


My wall covering are FRP except behind the cooking line.
I think that the dead air space is a good suggestion. My walls are 2.5 inces thick as is. If I put some spacers in and brought it out to three, I wouldnt lose anymore space, its an easy fix and like I said before, Nothing is gonna catch on fire back there anyway.

The fix on the window is just like you stated. It'll look tinted and will have a nicer appearance that a patch job.
Thanks for the information.

Any suggestions on how to handle a curved roof? As the walls go up to the roof the roof curves down to them sorta like a curved trailer and not like those trailer with flat tops. When you get up to where the roof meets how would you go about getting wood to curve or bow or what ever you call it for the roof? In the middle of the roof its flat so no prob but I have not figured out the edges unless I give up those inches and square it off. I think when I saw a curved trailer roof the inside had some soft panel type stuff up there but I don't know if it had wood under it. I am searching now to find out if it has been touched on.

On your ceiling: pull down the panels and lay them on a sheet of thin SS draw the outline and drill the holes where there were screws holding the roof panels in place. Cut the sheet to the correct size, and put both back up with the same screws. What your doing is using the old ceiling covering for a pattern. Thin metal will bend if done gently to the shape you need.

JAck
Do you have the manufacturers name and number?
I could contact him and see about having some shipped out to Massachusetts. What size are the sheets? Approximate $s. I have an 8' line going in with 7.5' cieling.
Thanks
Rich

chefbuba


KG....Here are some pics from my trailer build....Maybe give you an idea.

worth a thousand words.

Beautiful! Nice setup. Thanks for the pictures.

WOW... I'm totally jealous now... LOL  that's a good lookin set up. I'm halfway to that stage. I opted for a 6x10 enclosed.. vs 6x12. Didn't think 2ft would have made that much more difference, I couldn't have been MORE wrong. I will work with it though, and upgrade down the road. Enclosed definately will give you more options on the menu. TMD you can get some nice flooring at Home Depot, I got the rubber diamond plate flooring in mine. I didn't insulate before laying it down, however I've been in there when it was 20 degrees outside, and it didn't make one bit of difference to me... But I am a cold weather fan.

You couldn't have said it better when you said the snow is a hassle right now. I haven't been able to do any work inside mine for about a month now. I'm so backed up. I guess it goes on the road when it goes on the road. I was shooting for a March deadline, but that just looks impossible at this point.

Good luck with your build man... Love to see some interior pictures

The Wild Dog
" Our Dogs Don't Just Snap, They Bite"
www.thewilddogcart.com

Maryland gets pretty warm, ventilation from roof
Hope you get home before Tues nite.

Curbside Grill


Maryland gets pretty warm, ventilation from roof
Hope you get home before Tues nite.

I made it back today, I have several appointments Monday that I can't miss.

My unit has an existing vent in the roof now that doubles as an emergency exit so I will probably screen that in and use that for added ventilation. Its a nice sized one so I would just pull the stickers off that reference an emergency exit. I was trying to figure out if I can set up my exhaust thingy that sits on the roof since its already an opening up there. I forget which is which but I'm talking about the round dome thing that's on just about all food trailer roofs. I get that thing and the vent that directly over your stove mixed up. My opening in the roof may be to big for it or the opening may be in the wrong place unless the duck work can be channeled over to the opening. The vent is in the middle of the roof and my cooking options will be along the wall. Will check into how to make it work.

Let me get a few hours sleep, will check in later.


Hey, Wild, I will be posting pics along the way as soon as possible...

Dawg;
You may want to leave the existing vent where it is and install the exhaust fan (that round dome thingy) where it will work the best. Ducting over to the opening could mean added expense and the present vent will provide make up air for the exhaust. (That makeup air might even be a requirement when you get your permits). Also, if that is a legitimate egress, you might not want to block it off.

TMD,

 What I've found out with the exhaust fan, You are pretty much limited to 2 real options. The "DOME" fan, or if you look at a custom 650, they have a side vent that is powered by a 12v battery. It runs $220, They also will install their grease hood & exhaust fan for a total of $1100.  These fly in baltimore county, as the home depot cart in 21030 has one, I've been back and forth asking him questions. He's a real nice guy if you ever get down that way to check his set up out.

I can't post any links for another 5 days lol since i haven't been a member for 30 days yet, ( seems like it )
If you go to the classified section here, There was a guy selling one, I think he sold it for 14k... You can see the set up from the link he posted.

knifeguy


Dawg;
You may want to leave the existing vent where it is and install the exhaust fan (that round dome thingy) where it will work the best. Ducting over to the opening could mean added expense and the present vent will provide make up air for the exhaust. (That makeup air might even be a requirement when you get your permits). Also, if that is a legitimate egress, you might not want to block it off.

Yeah, I am just kicking around ideas at this point, I just thought to myself, "cool it already has a big ole whole already so one less thing to cut through" ya know? I am speaking with my HD some time Monday and plan to speak with the fire dept people later in the week with a few questions. I popped open the vent when I got back today just to see how it worked and it is pretty cool the way it is and I could see it coming in handy. It is a nicely built opening and is big enough for a person to get out of, hence it being an emergency exit in a prior life. I will grab a pic of it sometime tomorrow, even with ir open a few minutes that freezing air was coming inside so it could provide some nice fresh air. As I mentioned I just need to remove the old stickers. I think the make up air may be a requirement but I am to tired now to go through my paper work to check again and my memories pretty bad. I have a lot of info here scattered about but don't feel like reading or hunting for it tonight.

THE WILD DOG


TMD,

What I've found out with the exhaust fan, You are pretty much limited to 2 real options. The "DOME" fan, or if you look at a custom 650, they have a side vent that is powered by a 12v battery. It runs $220, They also will install their grease hood & exhaust fan for a total of $1100.  These fly in baltimore county, as the home depot cart in 21030 has one, I've been back and forth asking him questions. He's a real nice guy if you ever get down that way to check his set up out.

I can't post any links for another 5 days lol since i haven't been a member for 30 days yet, ( seems like it )
If you go to the classified section here, There was a guy selling one, I think he sold it for 14k... You can see the set up from the link he posted.

Yeah, I have looked at the custom many, many, many times as I was thinking about getting a 650 at a few points. The problem I have with that 650 vent route is that it would be to small for the area I would need it to cover. If I could get it for that price but maybe 5' or so then it would work perfectly. I need to look at it again (I have pics of it in my files from before) to see how wide it is, if I remember correctly it is pretty small because the 650 wasn't big to start with so it didn't need to be very big in there. I will look at that in a few. I have some mechanical issues to take care of first before anything so there is time for me to figure this part of it out. I spoke with that guy you mention was selling one, he sold it.

You say the Home Depot Cart has one? Do you mean the Home Depot trailer? If it is on a cart then I know for sure it is to small for what I want it for.




Side note:
How do people fill the holding tank? With the cart I poured water in the top plug but filling a big tank would take forever. Ever time I look at a trailer pick I never see anything on the outside that looks like a fill valve or something to use a hose to fill so there must be something I'm not seeing. It's probably really simple but I have not seen it yet. Also same for the waist tank, how is the old water removed? Again, I had something I could just carry away in my cart so how do you empty a big tank? I need to incorporate your answers into my build.

Waste- So I'm thinking maybe drill a hole in the floor, run a pipe from the waste tank to the floor with some type of on/off lever or something, clamp a hose to the pipe under the truck and make some type of clip to hold the hose? This idea if it will work would work for camp ground type places, etc. Pull up and just hold hose over the drain dump but what or how do you do it when you would take the water to the commissary? I guess the same principle but maybe I need a portable tote type tank as well. I would grab the portable tank (kind on wheels) and just fill it via the prior mentioned hose. On paper it seems like it would work but I will wait for feedback from RFers. It may be a better or simpler way I don't know of that you mention.

Clean Water- So I'm thinking drill a hole in the side for an on/off valve to attach a fill hose to? Run pipe from that to the clean tank and just attach a hose to fill from outside? Again on paper it seems like it would work BUT if your water comes from a store bottled or from the commissary how would you attach a hose to fill? Probably something I'm missing and just not thinking about but again will wait for feedback. Tanks should be here next week but I wont be ready to work on that part by then, just getting the ducks in order.

Thanks guys.

If you look at the trucks from Armenco in California you'll see a similar hood system and exhaust as in the custom 650, only they have 4 or 5 fans hooked up on their hood system. All of these are 12 Volt and vent out the side of the truck. I have tried to get information on them but all I could get was their offer to build me a unit for my truck. Big money and they want to install in Cali.
If anyone has information on this system being available on the East Coast, please pass it along. The "mushroom" on top of my already 12' truck has me worried and I do not like the look of that style setup. I am also trying to find information on a low-profile fan for the roof.
Also; does anyone have any information on the acceptability of the side vent hood systems with the louvres by the authorities on the East Coast..particularly Massachusetts

Side note:
How do people fill the holding tank? With the cart I poured water in the top plug but filling a big tank would take forever. Ever time I look at a trailer pick I never see anything on the outside that looks like a fill valve or something to use a hose to fill so there must be something I'm not seeing. It's probably really simple but I have not seen it yet. Also same for the waist tank, how is the old water removed? Again, I had something I could just carry away in my cart so how do you empty a big tank? I need to incorporate your answers into my build.

Rv water inlets there are a couple of city water inlets on this page.
We have this one on our RV.  It has a built in check valve to prevent back flow.  You would need one with a back flow device built in or added on.  I also run a 90 degree elbow to prevent the hose kinking.  But that is for a hose that stays hooked up all the time.  Use a drinking water hose (NOT from Wal-Mart... they tend to leak at the fittings) for the water.  Regular garden type hoses may have hose fittings that will leach nasty stuff into your water... like lead.  Our current drinking water hose came from Lowe's.

For our little cart... We put a threaded hose bibb on our waste waste tank.  We hook a garden water hose up and drain the tank.  We are using a tank like this (it was free). I plan to build a custom tank to hang under our trailer later on.  We drain the tank into the sewer system that our RV is hooked up to (we live in a campground).

BUT if your water comes from a store bottled or from the commissary how would you attach a hose to fill?

You can hook up a 12VDC water pump to a 5 gal type water jug.  An alternative is to use a Rocket Pump if you don't mind hand pumping.   In Corpus we had to have water under pressure.  we run two 12VDC Shurflo water pumps  We hold our water in two 5 gallon coolers... one hot, one cold.

I'm in the planning stages for a second mobile kitchen.  We plan to add a pour over coffeemaker.  We will add a dedicated 2088 water pump and an inexpensive water filtration faucet.  It is just for "coffee water".  We will have another 2088 water pump for the fresh water system, 6 gal LP/Electric/Direct Spark Ignition (no pilot light) This is a great water heater... heats up pretty fast... it's the same one I have in the RV. , Rocket Tanks (ABS) for holding fresh water, waste holding tank to hang under the trailer or I build a custom unit. 12VDC Flourescent lights (I'm going with Thin Lites because I used cheapie ones in the RV and they burned out in a matter of months) and maybe some rope lights (we will also have a quiet generator)

lornaschinske

Side note:
How do people fill the holding tank? With the cart I poured water in the top plug but filling a big tank would take forever. Ever time I look at a trailer pick I never see anything on the outside that looks like a fill valve or something to use a hose to fill so there must be something I'm not seeing. It's probably really simple but I have not seen it yet. Also same for the waist tank, how is the old water removed? Again, I had something I could just carry away in my cart so how do you empty a big tank? I need to incorporate your answers into my build.

Rv water inlets there are a couple of city water inlets on this page.
We have this one on our RV.  It has a built in check valve to prevent back flow.  You would need one with a back flow device built in or added on.  I also run a 90 degree elbow to prevent the hose kinking.  But that is for a hose that stays hooked up all the time.  Use a drinking water hose (NOT from Wal-Mart... they tend to leak at the fittings) for the water.  Regular garden type hoses may have hose fittings that will leach nasty stuff into your water... like lead.  Our current drinking water hose came from Lowe's.

For our little cart... We put a threaded hose bibb on our waste waste tank.  We hook a garden water hose up and drain the tank.  We are using a tank like this (it was free). I plan to build a custom tank to hang under our trailer later on.  We drain the tank into the sewer system that our RV is hooked up to (we live in a campground).

BUT if your water comes from a store bottled or from the commissary how would you attach a hose to fill?

You can hook up a 12VDC water pump to a 5 gal type water jug.  An alternative is to use a Rocket Pump if you don't mind hand pumping.   In Corpus we had to have water under pressure.  we run two 12VDC Shurflo water pumps  We hold our water in two 5 gallon coolers... one hot, one cold.

I'm in the planning stages for a second mobile kitchen.  We plan to add a pour over coffeemaker.  We will add a dedicated 2088 water pump and an inexpensive water filtration faucet.  It is just for "coffee water".  We will have another 2088 water pump for the fresh water system, 6 gal LP/Electric/Direct Spark Ignition (no pilot light) This is a great water heater... heats up pretty fast... it's the same one I have in the RV. , Rocket Tanks (ABS) for holding fresh water, waste holding tank to hang under the trailer or I build a custom unit. 12VDC Flourescent lights (I'm going with Thin Lites because I used cheapie ones in the RV and they burned out in a matter of months) and maybe some rope lights (we will also have a quiet generator)

Yeah, I am going to use shurflo pumps because I liked how well it worked on my cart. We have to have under pressure water here too but even if we didn't have to I would do it anyway because I liked it so much. I am probably going to use some 12v lights I found, they have enough candle ft of light for my hd and I don't think they are to expensive. I think four lights are like $60, they are single bulb but bright. I am probably going with 8 total and double the lights up per placement so it will be plenty bright.

Checking the water inlets now. Good info!

knifeguy


JAck
Do you have the manufacturers name and number?
I could contact him and see about having some shipped out to Massachusetts. What size are the sheets? Approximate $s. I have an 8' line going in with 7.5' cieling.
Thanks
Rich

Sorry it took so long to post this, what with SB being this weekend I had an extremely busy week and frankly just came home from the stand Saturday night and ate and crashed. In fact I slept almost all day today didn't even watch the SB. LOL This business especially in the cold winter months is hard on the body. I finally got off my tail and drove out there tonight and here is your answer

Prime Panels is the name of the company and the owner is Tom Nudo (New-doe) 217-789-7898
Custom Laminated Panels. ... Corporate Address - 2651 Colt Road, Springfield, IL 62707 Phone - (217) 789-7898 Toll Free - (800) 990-3468 Fax - (217)789-7897.

The fluted Poly Laminated Panels are what I was talking about I think.I wish he had pictures posted on his internet site which is: http://www.primepanels.com/

Tom goes 100 mph so it may be difficult to get him on the phone we are in the CST time zone I'd sugest an early morning call if you want to catch him and speak with him personally, in fact I'd bet he is in the shop right at 7:00 am our time.  Good luck........... if you need anything else let me know.

Jack

Guys I would suggest that you don't buy a water tank from an RV dealer they are way to expensive. Just go to ebay and check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...name=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I have bought three of these and they are the same tank but much less expensive.

Dr of BBQ


Guys I would suggest that you don't buy a water tank from an RV dealer they are way to expensive. Just go to ebay and check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...name=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I have bought three of these and they are the same tank but much less expensive.

Got both of my tanks from ebay already....

I'm not sure how much hood length you guys will need because I don't know your equipment list nor what your cooking. But I'd suggest again that you check out Ebay and take a minute and call Ventilation Dirrect. They have items on Ebay but you can always get a much better price if you call them on the phone. I have posted here on RF about them and my unit came from them.

I know you guys are thinking a 12 volt system and I'm not sure why but even if you don't run a charbroiler or flattop grill a really good exhaust system is worth it's weight in gold. My exhaust fan runs from early spring to late fall just to cool the trailer. It drops the interior temp a bunch pulling air through two screened windows and out the roof.

There are a bunch of exhaust hoods on ebay and you also need to search exhaust vent.

Here is an example http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5...on?hash=item5ad6a7f2ab

And I have bought some used equipment from this company, but I'd just about bet (both companies are close to each other)  they are dealing with Ventilation Direct and just having them drop ship what ever you buy.

A 12 volt system may get you past your local HD but are you going to be able to work when it's really hot outside in midsummer and you have a bunch of heat producing equipment running?

And I understand (short on money) but there are places and times to cut and some times you just have to spend the bucks.

I also understand doing what you can to get the doors open and doing a rebuild after you get some money rolling in. LOL

Good luck on your projects.

Jack

PS if you guys call Tom Nudo at Prime Panels, tell him I referred you, it may get you a slightly better price or it may not but it's worth a try.

Dr of BBQ


Guys I would suggest that you don't buy a water tank from an RV dealer they are way to expensive. Just go to ebay and check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...name=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I have bought three of these and they are the same tank but much less expensive.

DR. I hate to point this out but they ARE RV dealers.  Just not Camping World.  Camping World always has great pics and the highest prices.  That's why we buy the Presidents Club membership when making a big purchase. We actually bought our water heater from a Camping World while in GA... needed it that day since the circa 1977 original water heater tank started leaking and they had the heater in stock.  We just often look and compare then buy elsewhere.    Most seasoned RVers know to look at their website then shop around.  Ronthebusnut usually has the best price. but only if he has it in stock. he lists a 54 gal tank for $45 but out of stock.  Shipping for the tank is $25 to 35.    I have quite a list of places to buy mobile "stuff" that ranges from RV outfits to Marine stores (I love a West Marine store... there's one about a mile or so from me) and always check eBay for pricing.  Gotta watch out for those shipping charges.  For anyone who lives near Elkhart IN area, they have lots of RV surplus places (most do not have websites) and you can buy tanks and 12VDC stuff there really cheap.

I don't care what you are buying.  Shop around and read up on what you are looking at.  The commercial restaurant equipment industry is a lot like the RV industry.  You have the junk that is high priced for what it is, but lower than the good stuff and then you have the good stuff that is reasonably priced for what it is.  Learn what you are looking at. And then there are stores that aim to get rich off each sale.  Some things you can get by with using the cheaper stuff until you make more $$ or need to use it more often and others you really need to get the good stuff.  We bought our steam pans off ebay, from yard sales and used restaurant equipment stores.  So we have a fairly diverse selection of steam pan brands.  Some of the pans that we paid the least for are the best ones (heavier, holds up better, cleans better).  We bought aluminum spillage pans new.  Cost was the big deal at the time.  We now know that the aluminum pan is okay for the cold table (ice & water only) but the aluminum does not hold up well to the combination of hot water and high mineral water (we keep adding a little cream of tartar to the pan).  For a hot water spillage pan, we would opt for a SS spillage pan.  But we also figured to use the pan for hot for about a year, which it will definitely last a year... it just looks bad. Live and learn.

TMD what size tanks did you get ???

With all due respect, I have been there (in person ) they do not sell RV's. They are right on the river just 1 1/2 hour from my house. I went up there for the 2nd time last Sept.

They sell some trailers in fact a long line of trailers (50 or more) on site, but they are enclosed bike trailers, car haulers, and standard box trailers.

But I never saw a single RV, on the two lots they use nor across the street in the warehouse lot.

Granted they sell a lot of trailer parts and according to what they told me they started out as a small trailer dealer and started handling other parts as an after thought.
Jack

So an RV dealer no I don't think so.

Just got done installing grey water tank on my truck conversion. I got both my fresh water and waste water tank from Plastic Mart who gets them from Ronco. The fitting are where I requested and there were no surprises. Looking at the website Dr suggested, I could have saved myself a hefty amount of money. Oh well...wish I had the site before I ordered. I put a 35 Gallon fresh water tank and a 43 gallon waste water tank in. Shootin for a mid April startup date.
I'll post some pictures when I have a chance.

Chefbuba; I was looking at your pictures that you posted. Is that an 8' hood with standard restaurant equipment under it? I see that the hood extends past the front edge of the equipment. How deep is that hood? Is it a custom hood? I went to Ventilation Direct and their concession hoods are only 22" deep. Not enough for full size equipment. Their full size hoods are too low for my cieling height. What kind of fan do you have for exhaust?
Thanks

Knifeguy,
I have some room to play with according to our local fire department on hood depth, it seems to me it's 6 inches on the front and some on the side, but I don't remember what it was for the side. Are your local rules that rigid that your exhaust hood has to come out beyond your equipment? If so that sucks.

This is from VD web site:

6' long 22" deep x 12" high rear with 3.5" front face
-Sturdy stainless steel construction
-Space saving, compact design uses limited kitchen space
-Hood may underhang equipment by maximum 4.5". Side Clearance is 2"
- 430 SS Where Exposed
- Stainless Steel Baffle Filters Included
- Grease Cup

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-Sta...on?hash=item5ad6e85d70




Jack

Jack;
My restrictions are the same as what you say yours are. My hood has to extend 6" further out than the equipment and I need 6" on each end. An 8' hood can only have 7' of equipment under it. The standard range w/ oven and griddle is 31" deep meaning my hood has to be 37" Deep. I really want to use full size equipment and would like to find a hood that is about 37" deep with the 3.5" face.
I did get a quote some time ago from Hoodmart that fits my requirements. $1700 for the 8' hood and prepiped fire supression add $2300. Fires supression has to be mounted by a licensed contractor which would probably be another $1000. Puts me at $5,000. Does this sound like it's in the ballpark? Has anyone dealt with Hoodmart?

knifeguy


Chefbuba; I was looking at your pictures that you posted. Is that an 8' hood with standard restaurant equipment under it? I see that the hood extends past the front edge of the equipment. How deep is that hood? Is it a custom hood? I went to Ventilation Direct and their concession hoods are only 22" deep. Not enough for full size equipment. Their full size hoods are too low for my cieling height. What kind of fan do you have for exhaust?
Thanks

KG.. Custom hood....100x42, it extends out in front of the equipment, and about 6" on either side..Roof mount fan.
 
Don't know off the top of my head where the hood came from, but it has the mfgrs sticker on it, if you want, I'll get that info tomorrow.

Rich,
You mistook what I was trying to point out, or I just didn't do a very good job of explaining it. LOL Read this line from the Ventilation Direct web site


-Hood may underhang equipment by maximum 4.5".
Side Clearance is 2"

I think that's Standard for the entire country. I'm not positive on that but I'd give my fire inspector a call and double check.

Here's why I say that, if your hood had to extend 6 inches past the front of your equipment and it has to be no further than (what ever the height measurement is ) above your equipment every tall cook in the country would be banging their head on the front of the hood all day.

I'm pretty sure there is a limit on the hood height to top of equipment, again not sure if that's very clear.

Do you see what I mean?

Jack

here's some imfo from VD web site and their phone number is 1.866.433.8335

Ok the min is 36 inches and the max is 47 inches above your equipment top

And Thatsmydawg will find this interesting:

Clearance Reduction Methods
Clearance reduction methods have been evaluated and tested and are certified by ETL. The method of test was derived from UL 710 with temperature criteria taken from appropriate standards.

Clearance Reduction Methods:Back & Front Clearance Reduction Options End Clearance Reduction Options

Top Clearance Reduction Options 1 inch thick min. layer of insulation of type Owens Corning Type 475 or Johns Manville Type 475 or listed kitchen exhaust duct insulation.

1 inch thick min. insulated backsplash. Insulation of type listed above.

Back Return (BR) supply plenum with 1 inch thick min. insulation of type listed above.

To comply with the ETL certification, the cooking appliance must be located:At least 6 inches from the rear wall.
At least 24 inches below the bottom edge of the hood.
Cooking surface must not exceed temperatures above 700°F.

The hood may be installed with a 3 inch clearance to limited combustible materials per NFPA96 if constructed in one of the following methods:

3 inch factory installed rear un-insulated standoff.
3 inch factory installed top wrapper or enclosure panel system.
3 inch factory installed end standoff

Not sure if any of this is going to answer your question BUT if I were you I'd call VD tomorrow and talk to them. They will give you enough information that you'll know exactly what to ask your local fire department inspector.

I may not have mentioned but I always planned to have a complete hood system installed. Issue is that when I add in the fire suppression that kicks it up another $1,500 to $2,000 or more. I may end up not adding my grill until I get the kitchen up and running and making money, if I don't have the grill I don't need the suppression. Get some loot coming in and then add the grill and suppression system. Nothing is final one way or another but just talking/typing to hear/see my thoughts..We will see..


On another note, what the heck kinda plug is this? I was going to plug up my warmer and test it and was like huh? So I guess I need a special adapter? Thoughts...
                           

 

                                                                        Found this insulation, think this will work in the truck?

 

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Here is a neat site that may help a lot of people

http://www.allexperts.com..Food-Service-Equipment/

TMD,

 Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

DR BBQ,  was that bold really necessary ?  JEEZ... now i've got to uncross my eyes

Dr of BBQ

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Ok, I will pick one up today, never saw one of those before. Funny thing I would have expected my prep table to have a strange plug because it's so much bigger than the warmer but it doesn't, cool.

THE WILD DOG

TMD what size tanks did you get ???

I did not get extra large tanks at this point, got a 20 + 25 gal

Dr of BBQ

Here is a neat site that may help a lot of people
http://www.allexperts.com..Food-Service-Equipment/

Gonna take a look this detail when I get back from and early morning meeting.

THE WILD DOG

TMD,
Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

I am speaking with the HD this morning at 9:00. It is not an HD thing though, it is a fire dept thing. The papers I have from the HD specify that the fire system is needed if you are using grill, charbroilers, fryers, etc. I will check with them to see if I am included because my items are small but I am looking at the paper now and it says it is required. Also, it says it's for the whole state not just my county. "State guidelines for hoods", etc. When I get back I will let you know what they told me. Stay tuned.

 

Dr of BBQ

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Ok, I will pick one up today, never saw one of those before. Funny thing I would have expected my prep table to have a strange plug because it's so much bigger than the warmer but it doesn't, cool.
 
It's not a strange plug if the warmer is 220 volts.
Check the name plate on the warmer.

Ice Cream Man

Dr of BBQ

That's a 220 plug Lowes sells them, both female and male

Ok, I will pick one up today, never saw one of those before. Funny thing I would have expected my prep table to have a strange plug because it's so much bigger than the warmer but it doesn't, cool.
 
It's not a strange plug if the warmer is 220 volts.
Check the name plate on the warmer.

No, no that's not what I was saying. I was saying it's strange to me because i never saw one of those plugs before. I know it is whats needed for that unit. it just looks funny to me having only seen the ones for a normal plug. Kinda reminds me of the plug for the washing machine.

Can't look at the tag because it's warm from scrubbing or what ever. I will grab the adapter today.

THE WILD DOG

TMD,
Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

Confirmed: HD says it is a requirement from the fire marshall and not from them just as I thought.

"greese hoods must include a fixed automatic fire extinguishing system that conforms to NFPA-96 and to the requirements of the State Fire Marshal's Office."

It says more than this but I cant cut and paste from the pdf and its to much for me to type. Anyway, I guess I will be getting a suppression system lol

THE WILD DOG


TMD,

Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

Wild Dog....Why don't you need an ansul system??
 
13-4.1.1 Cooking equipment that is installed in a trailer or vehicle (e.g. chuck wagon or lunch wagon) must conform to requirements of NFPA 96 and is not covered under this regulation.

chefbuba

knifeguy


Chefbuba; I was looking at your pictures that you posted. Is that an 8' hood with standard restaurant equipment under it? I see that the hood extends past the front edge of the equipment. How deep is that hood? Is it a custom hood? I went to Ventilation Direct and their concession hoods are only 22" deep. Not enough for full size equipment. Their full size hoods are too low for my cieling height. What kind of fan do you have for exhaust?
Thanks

KG.. Custom hood....100x42, it extends out in front of the equipment, and about 6" on either side..Roof mount fan.
 
Don't know off the top of my head where the hood came from, but it has the mfgrs sticker on it, if you want, I'll get that info tomorrow.

KG..
 
American Hood Systems
177 Reaser Ct
Elyria, OH  44036

CB,

 When speaking to my HD, She asked me what I was going to be cooking on the griddle. I said mainly hot dogs, and possibly hamburgers & sausage. She said as long as I wasn't using a fryer or a char broiler, I didn't need one.  I even asked directly about it and she said no.

 I remember talking to a guy at my local Home Depot about his trailer and he said something about having one.

She also told me that I needed to have a 10gallon water heater, I couldn't run piping to heat my hot water via copper pipe thru my cooking equipment. ( like on a cart) which i could see why. However I keep hearing about alot of people going with tankless water heaters too.

If she said I didn't need one and that it wasn't required, do I go with that ? Should I ask to speak to a different HD rep ?

The reason I asked directly about that is I know that they are about an extra 2k and that would totally put me over budget to say the least and would have to get up and running and save up for it.

Now I'm totally confused all over again about this stupid exhaust hood. LOL  I mean it totally makes sense on having one.

THE WILD DOG


CB,

When speaking to my HD, She asked me what I was going to be cooking on the griddle. I said mainly hot dogs, and possibly hamburgers & sausage. She said as long as I wasn't using a fryer or a char broiler, I didn't need one.  I even asked directly about it and she said no.

I remember talking to a guy at my local Home Depot about his trailer and he said something about having one.

She also told me that I needed to have a 10gallon water heater, I couldn't run piping to heat my hot water via copper pipe thru my cooking equipment. ( like on a cart) which i could see why. However I keep hearing about alot of people going with tankless water heaters too.

If she said I didn't need one and that it wasn't required, do I go with that ? Should I ask to speak to a different HD rep ?

The reason I asked directly about that is I know that they are about an extra 2k and that would totally put me over budget to say the least and would have to get up and running and save up for it.

Now I'm totally confused all over again about this stupid exhaust hood. LOL  I mean it totally makes sense on having one.

Bro, I'll tell you this, if she said you don't need one then you don't BUT I would 150% get her to put that in writting without making it seem like she is making a mistake and I'll tell you why. If you finish your build and later she or someone else realizes there was a mistake they can make you install it after the fact. The reason I say get it in writing because you need something to cover your a**.

Example: HD told me my cart had to have a splash guard. This was after my inspection, after I was approved, after I was open and after I was making money. I had no choice but to add it after the fact. Since it was a easy fix for a couple of bucks it was nothing but time to figure out how I was going to make it. However, if it would have been something major (a hood and it's cost and installation is major to me) then I would have been screwed because I could not have went out and got one the next day. Then what?

FYI my kitchen will carry my carts menu plus burgers, chicken strips, steak sub, fries and pretzels. Bro if you can get passed without it I will be really happy for you and will be sure to swing by and give you a high5!

What ever I'm with you....

Chef Buba;
Thanks for the link.
Rich (knifeguy)

chefbuba

THE WILD DOG


TMD,

Check with your HD,  Do you need an Ansul system ?  In B/C we DONT need to have a fire suppression system at all over the grill area. ( ansul)

Wild Dog....Why don't you need an ansul system??
 
13-4.1.1 Cooking equipment that is installed in a trailer or vehicle (e.g. chuck wagon or lunch wagon) must conform to requirements of NFPA 96 and is not covered under this regulation.

From the Baltimore Fire Code.......
 
You better make an appt with the Fire Marshall....
He's the one you need your answers from on this subject.
If all you were doing is re heating hot dogs and microwaving... You probably would get away without a hood or ansul, but the first time that anything that you cook produces grease laden vapors, the FM will have his say in the matter.

can the FM shut me down though ? i'm mobile. As far as grease laden vapors, isn't that what the exhaust hood is for ?  I was told to avoid the FM b/c they weren't the ones you had to worry about, all they would do is make you spend more unnecessary money.

Again, I am going off of what my HD rep said. Except for the avoid the FM quote. that was a guy already in the biz, and he runs all kinds of grease equipment and doesn't have an Ansil system, and hasn't been shut down in 16 years. I take all the advice I get from you guys with great appreciation, I cherish it and take it back to the HD rep and ask the questions needed.

however, this is TMD's thread... I don't wanna hi-jack it...   lol

THE WILD DOG


can the FM shut me down though ? i'm mobile. As far as grease laden vapors, isn't that what the exhaust hood is for ?  I was told to avoid the FM b/c they weren't the ones you had to worry about, all they would do is make you spend more unnecessary money.
Think about that one... If there was nothing to worry about, why try to avoid them?
 
Again, I am going off of what my HD rep said. Except for the avoid the FM quote. that was a guy already in the biz, and he runs all kinds of grease equipment and doesn't have an Ansil system, and hasn't been shut down in 16 years. I take all the advice I get from you guys with great appreciation, I cherish it and take it back to the HD rep and ask the questions needed.

Dr;
Just got off the phone with Fire Chief. He is fine with the 3" air gap and a fire rated insulation. I looked at the hood system that Hood Mart designed and they have a 3" air gap built in to the hood itself. I think that I'll just go with a heavier stainless for the wall covering and glue it directly to the "studs". In speaking with him, he has no experience in this type of setup. He has never been involved with a buildout like this and has only approved trailers that have already been built. I think this is the case in most areas.
Rich