Cajun, Creole and Ozark Adventures with a Bite of the Bluff City and a Dash of the Delta

What a fantastic report, and tie in to the Nasville story..........

There's no way that was real butter on that potato, was it? That looks like margarine - the coloring just didn't seem right. Why would you** do that to a perfectly good potato?
 
** Not "you," of course, but the people who made the potato.

I'm a little surprised you didn't stop at the Clinton library in Little Rock. As always, I am enjoying reading about your adventures and looking at your photos. It is always a treat when you share your adventures.

Anne,
The plan is I'll post photos for Nashville under the meet n greet thread. Then I"ll write up the conclusion under this trip report.
 
TTM
 
Your eyes deceive you, that certainly was  real authentic butter on that baker. Yes, lighting was certainly an issue- I probably should have used flash, especially after reviewing Michael Stern's photos- it appears they were all flash photos at Stubby's
 
Mr Chips
 
I thought about heading to the Clinton Library in the morning but it was such a beautiful day- unfortunately that was a rarity on this trip, so I opted to enjoy the outdoors.

Fortunately I was the recipient of the bottle of Stubby's BBQ sauce and WJ, please believe me, I put it to good use. 
 
I was also surprised that WJ did not visit the shoebox (Bill Clinton Library).  Architectually it was not very attractive although the visit was very nice.
 
Great write WJ:  I enjoyed each and every pic.
 
Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN

When I ate at Franke's about a decade ago, it was located inside a downtown mall.  You seemed to enjoy your meal, but other than the pretty pie, the food doesn't look very appetizing.  Glad it tasted better.  I have never even seen corn pone before, but would like to try it.
 
As for Stubby's, oh baby!!!  So you are saying the ribs at Payne's were even better than at Stubby's?  Wow!  I really need to get to Payne's.  Have you been to McClard's, also in Hot Springs?  I would put both of them in my all-time top five for ribs.
 
Looking forward to more of this outstanding report.

Another beautiful trip report, Dale!

Buffetbuster
 
The sides at Franke's are certainly not in the same category as Gray's
The chicken and dumplings were very good (I've yet to see a sexy photo of chicken and dumplings) and the corn pone was interesting, it certainly isn't for everyone as it's cloddish, dense and very chewy, but I enjoyed it.
 
Yes, you heard correctly about  the ribs-  Payne's is once again my favorite bbq joint in Memphis. Stay tuned for the next chapter for my Payne's re-visit before heading to Nashville

Last summer I was holed up in the Arkansas state archives in Little Rock for three days and did nothing after work hours but run from the Peabody Hotel to Doe's Steak House.  But if I ever have to return, I'll keep this report in mind for future reference.
 
As to corn pone, I've read about it in books, but I've never seen it on a menu before.  So this will be another reason to venture into the state again.
 
As always, I enjoy the photographic composition of your trip--an even blend of both the food I can find and a glimpse of the local geography and assorted landmarks I could possibly encounter.
 

Louis,
 
You must certainly try corn pone if you have the chance, I'm actually somewhat surprised that it's not as popular as I thought it would be. It appears Franke's Cafeteria has it on their regular daily menu. Truly a unique regional specialty.

Corn Pone is easy to make:
SOUTHERN STYLE CORN PONE
Ingredients:

1/4 cup canola oil

1 1/2 cups white cornmeal

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 1/3 cups buttermilk

2 eggs

 

Directions:

1.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C). Place a 9 inch cast iron skillet on the center rack.

2.

When the skillet is hot, carefully remove the skillet from the oven. Pour the canola oil into the skillet and gently swirl the pan to coat the bottom and the sides. Return the pan to the oven for ten minutes.

3.

While the oil is heating, mix together the cornmeal and salt in a medium bowl. Add the eggs and buttermilk and mix together to make a thin batter.

4.

Carefully pull out the rack with the cast iron skillet and pour the batter into the preheated skillet.

5.

Bake the corn pone until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. If desired, turn the oven to broil for the last few minutes of baking to brown the top.

6.

Remove the skillet from the oven and shake the pan to loosen the corn pone from the skillet. Serve the corn pone warm from the skillet or turn out onto a plate.

Serves 8

 

Chapter 11- The Road to Nashville
 
Friday February 17
 
I'm not sure what came over me , but I decided to try a different coffee house this morning. River City Coffee and Cream in the Hillcrest neighborhood.  It's a cute place, but after one sip, no way- I'll finish the cup and head right back to Guillermo's which I visited the day before and boy am I glad I did.
 
I left Little Rock that morning, Mayor Al and Poverty Pete gave me an assignment to complete before heading to Nashville.
 
What is that assignment you ask?
 
Well. my assignment landed me here...
 

 
I completely over shot the place, went into town, almost out of town when I realize I must have missed it. I got directions at a convenience store, I was only about a mile away.
 
The Family Pie Shop 
in DeValls Bluff AR
 
I called the day before to order the pies. I spoke with the owner who told me that Chocolate and Coconut Cream would be available, (I got one of each)  oh and also apricot fried pies. (I got 1/2 a dozen)
Now. who were the pies for?
When I entered the pie shop, I got a kick out of this business card that was hanging on the clip board
 
 
 
Anyway, the pies were ready when I got there. 
 
I deliberately ordered an extra apricot fried pie for myself which I enjoyed eating in my rental car.
 

 
The warm flaky exterior  gives way to a filling that just screams pie heaven!
 

 
Now this is what a fried pie should look like.
 
When I first overshot the Family Pie Shop, i did notice this roadfood favorite to my right.
 

 
Now it would be a shame to come this far and not stop in
 
I ordered, just a pork sandwich and nothing else.
 

 
I believe my choice of sauce was mild, medium or hot- I chose medium. The bbq pork was sliced versus pulled or chopped. The almost orange sauce was quite tangy and seemed to go quite well with the creamy slaw. If I knew I didn't have have another stop, I would have ordered two.
 
I arrived in Memphis  just a little after noon time.
As promised I returned to 
 

 
Payne's Bar-B-Q
(photo taken the previous tuesday)
and they were not out of pork shoulder! 
The owner, Flora and her kids actually remembered me
Flora was nice enough to let me take her photo
 

 
 
and I got my jumbo pork sandwich
 

 
and it was simply outstanding- every bit as good as I remembered back in 2005.
 
 
I left  with a happy stomach
 
From here it's on the road to Nashville
 
I will post all the Nashville Photos on the glee club meet and greet thread starting next week. It won't be a trip report- just photos with commentary.
 
I will then post the short conclusion (after  Nashville) here on this report along with an epilogue and footnotes.
 

Okay- we have to skip back and forth? LOL!

Outstanding looking pie WJ and you are right.  Very flaky and great appearance.
 
Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN

Ann
 
There really isn't much left to this report-just the drive back to Birmingham from Nashville and lunch  before returning to the airport.
 
It just makes sense to put all the Nasvhille stuff on the other thread.
 
 

WJ, that photo of the jumbo pork sandwich from Payne's is nothing short of spectacular!  It is so good, I am barely paying any attention to the pie photos.

I was just teasing you, Dale!

Dale, at Craig's Bar-B-Q, you chose correctly as to which sauce to get.  The medium is perfect.  The mild sauce is disappointing, and the hot is too hot to eat.
 
Last summer I got two big jars of their medium sauce to go, and carried it in my car, first to Louisiana, and then back through the mid-South all the way to Virginia, before heading back home.  It held up well, and for the next month I was slathering it on Bon Ton Mini Mart pork chops for breakfast.
 
The pie I want to try at the Family Pie Shop is never being made whenever I've gone in there: Karo Syrup Pie.  I've tried for the last 20 years, but I've just never seem to hit them on a day when it's served.
 

Louis-
I had no idea that Family Pie Shop even made Karo Syrup Pie.  I am a nut frowner, but I would still like to try that.  Maybe you should call ahead the next time you are passing through.

Louis
 
Although I can picture TTM shrugging in disappointment, I agree with Buffetbuster
absolutely call ahead and see when it will be available.  I regret not doing that during my trips last year to Penn Dutch Country and Iowa when I was in search of Chicken Corn Soup and Sour Cream Raisin Pie, respectively

What is this "calling ahead" of which you speak?

DALE
 
You are killing me... the hospital food sucked and now you are torturing me with your wonderful pre glee trip.  The food and scenery looks amazing.  I would love to get out that way again.

Stubby's Ribs are great, and Your photo brings back memories of more than one stop there over the years! 
The Pie Shop is another classic operated by folks who have always gone the extra mile to provide delicious treats to their customers. I will not forget picking up 3 pies at 5 AM one morning last year, for us to enjoy on our Texas hunting trip. They are super people !
Looking forward to the grand finale !

Cajun KIng
 
I'll be happy to torture you knowing that you are out of the hospital and back on your feet.  
 
Al
 
Did you end up taking the chocolate pie or the coconut pie home?  I don't remember.
 
 

As to the Karo Syrup Pie, all I can tell you is that they had it on their menu board on the wall (written in chalk, as I remember).  This was on July 28, 2000.  I had never had that type of pie before, and I was so disappointed that they didn't have it that I made a note of it.  I've lucked out on the other times I've inquired about it since then.
 
This past summer I didn't stop at the Pie Shop.  (I was running late for my appointment and only had time to stop for a quick lunch at Craig's.)  However, I'll take your suggestion about calling ahead next time.
 

Wow the bbq sandwich looks great. More great pictures -- Thanks.

I have really enjoyed this report. Thanks.

I have a second cousin that works at War Eagle Mill. Her daughter is on the cover of their Catalog...While you were in Little rock you were 44 miles from Pine Bluff. Its well known for one of its famous sons........Me!..LOL I grew up there. I have ate at Stubbys in Hot Springs too. Surprised you didnt hit McClards? You brought back some fond memories on this trip.

BigGlenn
 
Of course I remember that you're an Arkansas boy, I didn't know that you were from Pine Bluff. If I had an extra day in Hot Springs I would have checked out McClard's to compare it to Stubby's but I didn't have time for both, I enjoyed Stubby's so much on my last visit in 1999 that I had to return.
 
To answer your question from the other thread, the closest to the west coast I'll get  this year is Phoenix and Tucson in late April.  Long term plans, possibly a trip to San Francisco and the Pacific Northwest next year, that depends on finances because I know I have to consider next year's Glee Club trip, the new ballpark in Miami (with possibly a side trip toTampa/St Pete) and definitely a week long trip to Oklahoma and New Mexico. Other than that I don't see a trip back to Southern Cal anytime in the near future.

Dale ,
  I got the Coconut Cream !! The Chocolate was last seen on it's way to Birmingham , AL !!
Glenn, Nice to see  y0u on the site. it sure has been a long time since our Rancho Cucamonga Meeting. There are times when I miss the high desert very much (but not often !)

Great Trip Report!

mayor al


Dale ,
I got the Coconut Cream !! The Chocolate was last seen on it's way to Birmingham , AL !!
Glenn, Nice to see  y0u on the site. it sure has been a long time since our Rancho Cucamonga Meeting. There are times when I miss the high desert very much (but not often !)

 
Hi Al.....I am always lurking. Wish you guys would come back out. We need another LA Area Get together. Be Safe!    

"Farewell"
 
Sunday February 19
 
I left Nashville in a blinding snow storm. Well not really, there was an inch or two of snow on the ground and it was snowing but a half hour into my drive the snow quickly turned to rain and even that eventually stopped as I entered Alabama.
 
I made it to my final lunch stop of the trip
 

 
The Birmingham branch of Dreamland 
 
I reallly wanted to hit the original Tuscaloosa branch but the only way I could have done that was to skip brunch an of course I wanted to say goodbye to my Roadfood friends- well. eventually I'll make it back to Tuscaloosa.
Lots of interesting Irony at Dreamland today.
 
There was a guy sitting across from me with his wife or girlfriend who sounded exactly like Larry The Cable guy.  7 years ago when I was in Tuscaloosa I was getting directions to Dreamland from someone who looked just like Larry the Cable Guy.
 
 

 
Bread and Sauce arrived first
 

 
the half rack shortly thereafter.
 
I said it before when were in Mobile. The sauce was very addicting however the ribs just simply don't compare to the smoked goodness of the original in Tuscaloosa.
 
I hesitated to order dessert knowing that the banana pudding was a disapointment  when I visited the original location back in Tuscaloosa.
 
Well, some more irony is heading my way
 

 
I remember noting that the banana  pudding at Dreamland paled in comparison to the nanner pudding at Two Sisters Kitchen in Jackson. Well this was actually a respectable dish of nanner pudding. Not on the same level as Miss Myra's but on this trip the banana pudding at Two Sister's Kitchen took a turn downhill and paled in comparison to that at Dreamland.
 
I had some time to kill before heading back to the airport and got a cup of coffee at O' Henry's in suburban Main Street Homewood. Afterwards I headed back to the airport for my flight home. After just a 25 minute layover in Tampa St Pete I was back home just after 11 PM.
 
Epilogue and foot notes probably towards the end of the weekend.

Fabulous report!  Every bit of it!  I enjoyed it so much!  Maybe I enjoyed it more since I met you in Nashville?  Your words and pictures now have a "voice".

This trip is at an end? Oh, WJ, tell us it isn't so! I've enjoyed this report very much! I even look forward to the ball park photos and descriptions, and that's saying a lot for a gal who is not sports oriented. You really seem to see so much of the area you are in - you could be a travel writer if you wanted to give up your day job.
 
Looking forward to your next trip in April!
Teresa

Great report, WJ!
 
I like the look of Dreamland's sauce.  How sweet was it?  My experiences with sauces of that color is that they may be slightly so but nothing like a Kansas City sauce.
 
Brad

Thanks everyone- It's good to know that there are some folks still left on the forum who still appreciate what Roadfood is all about.
 
Brad
 
The sauce at dreamland is sweet, but you are correct - not nearly as sweet as the typical sauce found in Kansas City- if I were to break it down, I would probably guesstimate a 60/40 sweet/spicy ratio.
 
 

Great report, wj!  I especially liked the look of that sandwich from Payne's.  Do you recall any of the details of the coleslaw on it?

Most folks from the mid south believe Payne's has the best pulled pork sandwich in Memphis. 

MiamiDon


Great report, wj!  I especially liked the look of that sandwich from Payne's.  Do you recall any of the details of the coleslaw on it?

 
MD
 
The slaw had a very sweet and tangy mustard flavor. 

wj
Another great report!  Last time I was in Dreamland in Birmingham I finished my ribs and the server came over and said, "All we have for dessert is banana pudding".  I said, "In that case, I'll just have more ribs!"

Synopsis and Footnotes
 
Just a brief overview of the highlights and disappointments
 
Non Food Highlights
 
1. New Orleans Weather- sunny and mid- high 60's
 
2. Mississippi River Cruise on the Creole Queen
 
3. St Louis Cemetery Tour in New Orleans
 
4. Staying at the legendary Riverside Hotel in Clarksdale MS
 
5. William Faulkner's Grave
 
6. Climbing the Hot Springs Mountain Tower
 
Non Food Disappointments
 
1. The Disneyfication of Clarksdale MS- this is truly the biggest disappointment of the trip
 
2. The Weather after I left New Orleans- What happened?, I had better weather all winter here in Rhode Island
 
3. Poverty Pete and Cousin Johnny  being down for the count in Nashville  along with Ralph and Lori Melton's travel issues.
 
Favorite Restaurants
 
1.  Bon Ton Cafe- New Orleans LA
2.  Mother's - New Orleans LA
3. Casamento's- New Orleans LA
4. Tujague's- New Orleans LA
5. Miss Myra's Pit Bar-B-Que- Birmingham AL
6. Weidmann's Restaurant- Meridien MS
7. Ramon's- Clarksdale MS
8. Payne's BBQ- Memphis TN
9. Stubby's Bar-b-que- Hot Springs AL
10. Catfish Hole- Alma AR
11. Silke's Old World Breads- Clarksville TN
 
Best Fried Chicken (tie)

1. Two Sister's Kitchen- Jacson MS (traditional)
2. AQ Chicken House - Fayetteville AR (Chicken over coals)
 
Best BBQ 
 
 Payne's - Memphis TN
 
Best Comeback Dressing
 
 Weidmann's Restaurant- Meridian MS
 
 Best Bread Pudding
 
 Bon Ton Cafe - New Orleans LA
 
Best Banana Pudding
 
Miss Myra's Pit Bar-B-Que- Birmingham AL
 
Best Accidental Find
 
Creole Creamery New Orleans LA
 
Best Pies
 
1. Coconut Custard- Neil's Cafe Springdale AR
2. Black Bottom - Weidmann's- Meridian MS
3. Apricot Fried Pie- Pie Shop- De Valls Bluff AR
4. Chess Pie- Sylvan Park- Nashville TN
5. Lemon Ice Box Pie- Elliston Place Soda Shoppe- Nashville TN
 
Best Beer 
 
Pale Ale- West Mountain Brewing Company Fayetteville AR
 
Best Coffee
 
Guillermo's Gourmet Coffee- Little Rock AR
 
Rotten Tomatoes
 
1. Gumbo Shop- New Orleans LA- This takes the grand prize!
 
2. Travelin Manned not once, not twice- but three times- probably the most times on any trip that I've been on in as long as I can recall.
 
 
 
 

Great report as always, dale. can't wait to read your next one wherever you go.

wanderingjew

2. Travelin Manned not once, not twice- but three times- probably the most times on any trip that I've been on in as long as I can recall.

Somewhere, TTM just called you "an amateur"!
 
Like I said on the phone the other night, this was truly one of your very best trip reports.  And that is really saying something!

Mr Chips- That will be Phoenix, Tucson, San Antonio and Austin in 2 1/2 weeks
 
Buffetbuster,
just like you call me an amateur if I don't order two slices of pie per meal!
 
Seriously, this was one of my longest trips since I started doing trip reports- I believe my longest was the "Heartlanding through the Breadbasket" trip and I was only TM'd twice and my second longest was the "Rocky Mountain Highs and Big Sky's" trip and no TM's on that trip at all that I can recall.

WJ,
What a great trip report.   I truly appreciate your quest for good coffee each morning.   My "gold standard" for coffee was actually at the Cafe du Monde many years ago - rich, dark roast with chicory.  None have compared since.  It doesn't look like you even had the choice. 
 
All the wonderful entrees and BBQ but the coconut pie at Neils just leaps off the page at me. 
 
Hopefully one day you will be able to find some good ol' Southern Black Eyed Peas.  It does appear though that you had some excellent hush puppies and fried pickles.  I will soon be on  the hunt for that comeback dressing.
 
I always enjoy the baseball parks but for this trip William Faulkner's grave was the highlight.  You just never know what that man has up his sleeve.  One of my favorite authors.
 
Looking forward to your next trip.

Dale, yet another phenomenal report.  I've re-read this several times and havesalivated over many of your photos!  Such a wonderful blend of food, local culture and off-beat finds.  Thanks again for being a huge part of why I love Roadfood so much! 

aww...gee, thanks Tex-Max and billyboy 
 
I'm blushing!
 

Thanks for a great MS report.  We went to Doe's Eat Place in Greenville last night.  It's outstanding.  Don't miss it if you can.