Concession Trailer Build with intro

This is a low proximity back shelf type hood. I covered that in the thread already and is covered in other peoples builds as well.
 
Thank you though :)

mikejames533

chefbuba


Couldn't you get that tank between the beams??....That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining........

+1  I see problems ahead with tank and plumbing. And I think your hood will need raised or it will be a pain in the back and neck to work!

I agree on the straps. It's been in the back of my mind that this is something i'm gonna have to come back to. I did use unistrut and rod when I hung the waste tank in my ice cream truck so that maybe the route I go or I'll use 1" steel flat and form it to the tank. The strut will add some depth thus giving me less clearance. I'll have to explore this more.
 

THE WILD DOG


you are gonna wanna re-think the straps used to hold that waste tank, it WILL NOT hold and you will be hating life... Reese & I both used a threaded rod and uni-strut to support the tank. Check out his build thread for a picture.

AWESOME job on the equipment flanges, I will be using these on my griddle stand, I't been moving around a bit and that is the LAST thing I want moving with my $3000 griddle on it.   MOFOOD you can get them at any Lowes & HD's in the plumbing section where the gas fittings are.

Definately easier and less time consuming than what I did. I'd be curious to see the cost difference in these vs a floor flange. Also, if anyone does buy these it looks like you'd need a longer set screw to dig into the legs. I used 1"  screws in my floor flanges
 

Dr of BBQ


Before you buy anything to anchor your equipment to the floor or stainless steel tables check this site out:
http://www.wagnercompanie...name=article&rpid=
HEAVY BASE FLANGE WITH SET SCREW AND TWO HOLES  in Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Brass, Bronze.

But give the credit to Marco he found them and sent the link to me.
jack

More good info on this thread! I saw that waste tank at the damaged freight place I frequent. I b interested to know if was shipped from Utah. I wanted to use it, just coudnt make it work.

I love uninstrut too. Didn't use it, but I will on another build.

Backshelf hoods are the $&!@ for mobile applications king. I'm on board.

Still liking the build, nice job. And good suggestions and knowledge from this thead.

Thanks Mo. This far along and as tired as I am positivity is the only thing keeping me in the game.
So, here are some more pics.
 


 
Got my LED lights and wanted to see how well they'd light up the trailer before going thru the hassle of installing conduit so I just duct taped them to the ceiling first. At first when I got them I just hooked up one light and I was dissapointed and stressed out that my plan for lighting wasn't going to work out. My goal with this build is be as self sufficient as possible. There will be pics with lights on and off so you can see how well they light.
 

 


 


So, after hanging all 6 of them (at first I was just gonna put 4 inside and 2 outside, Ill have to get 2 more for outside) I was well pleased with the brightness and couldn't be happier with them. So I installed them in wiremold conduit for a clean look. I know I have an excess of pics but I took em dang it so I'm posting them.

 




 





 

 

 

 

 


 



 

 

 
After I installed the lights and wiremold, I clipped the end wires on the light fixtures flush with the housing and put a dab of silicone over the wires.
 
The following pics are of my propane cylinder platform build. I am not a welder, don't have a welder, have only welded in a welding class I took as part of my HVAC education 15 years ago so I didn't want to have to train myself to weld and spend a bunch of time doing that. Actually this took long enough though. I just bolted angle iron to the trailer frame and tongue, cut and installed 1/8" steel sheet and built on top of that.


 

 

 

 

 

 

the straps I made are just 1" steel flats that I formed to the tank then drilled holes in the ends to attach the hardware

installed an outdoor light and switch inside

here I came off the outlet I had installed months ago to feed an electrical outlet under my sink cabinet to power the batter charger / converter. I came off the load side of the GFCI so that the outlet under the sink was gfi protected as well. The wiring just went under the door to the right about 3 feet then up through the floor. I used watertight conduit and fittings.

 
Heres the outlet under the sink with the intellipower charger / converter
 

 
Got my 18" deep x 72" long stainless work table last night so I put it together and put in place along with the 24" wide x 12" deep stainless wall shelf. Plus the trailer is clean and my wire shelving is visible as well. Above the sinks I installed NSF approved for wet locations wire shelving for my wares drying. I'm getting closer now people. Cant wait for this to be done. I recieved my propane regulator so that'll be next then probably rehang the waste tank and install another window in the rear door to be a pick up window then I should be ready to schedule the inspection.

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Looks very good. You've put in a ton of work and it looks as though you spared no expense. A big congratulations to you buddy. Good job. By the way I'm glad you posted all the pictures. LOL
jack

I'll remember to not open up this post on my phone.....It will take forever to download those pics!.
Looks good...... Couple of things to consider..... Battery may need to be in a seperate or sealed compartment.....and some entity may have a problem with propane tank placement, they like to sse them on the tounge, also dicey with clearance when you have to jack knife  that thing to get it into the space you have to put it.

Looks great KoC you have done a tremendous amount of work in such a short time it seems....and it looks great I am jealous!!!! I'll get there some day. Question for you? are your led lights mounted on a strip or bracket or are they loose and you made a bracket for them?
 
Thanks
 

The battery container had crossed my mind. I should get one just in case. I know the electrical inspector won't care but the HD might. You know I never even considered the clearance when backing up. Good point though. I had been thinking about a trailer dolly for getting into tight spaces. I really only have a couple events that will be tight. You or anyone else ever used a dolly and how well do they work??
 
If there would be an issue with the tank it would probably come from DOT. There's no way I can mount it on the tongue now as my propane fired hot water heater is installed right to the left of the spare tire holder. If height is an issue I could just add about 4 inches to the platform to get it the same height as the top of the tongue.
 
 

chefbuba


I'll remember to not open up this post on my phone.....It will take forever to download those pics!.
Looks good...... Couple of things to consider..... Battery may need to be in a seperate or sealed compartment.....and some entity may have a problem with propane tank placement, they like to sse them on the tounge, also dicey with clearance when you have to jack knife  that thing to get it into the space you have to put it.

Thanks cheetah, youll get there for sure. Actually I've been at this since then end of November. If I could have devoted 50 hours a week to this It wouldn't have taken me so long. Anyway, what I did is I used picture hanging strips made by 3M on the light fixtures and I placed the ends of the fixtures (sometimes only 1 end) inside the wiremold about a 1/4" to hold it in place. I used the picture hanging strips cause u can remove them with no residue and I've used velcro in my ice cream truck and the heat causes it to fail. Even if the strips fail the fixtures are still being held in place by the wiremold except at the ends. If this is an issue I'll install wiremold clamps on the ends of the fixtures. It should be noted that there is two sizes of wire mold conduit and I am using the larger of the two as that is what menards carries. The light fixtures are pretty thin though and I think they'd fit inside the smaller wiremold as well.Menards also carries a plastic round conduit made by wire mold and that would be much easier to cut.

PurpleCheetah


Looks great KoC you have done a tremendous amount of work in such a short time it seems....and it looks great I am jealous!!!! I'll get there some day. Question for you? are your led lights mounted on a strip or bracket or are they loose and you made a bracket for them?

Thanks

Installed the propane regulator last night inbetween rain showers. Pretty strait forward. This is the regulator I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120895649123&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:3160
 
It's a integral two stage with an output of up to 350,000 BTU/hr. You'll notice I installed a shut off valve upstream of the regulator. I just did it cause 1) why not  and this way when changing or refilling tank I won't lose gas pressure in the line and have to bleed off air. Plus if I decide to remove the tank in the offseason to prevent theft keeping the valve off will prevent anything (critter, moisture) from getting into the regulator and piping (moisture) as the line will remain charged.
 

 

trailers dollies are the nutz. I use mine all the time especially for backing the smoker in the garage.

I have a couple questions, If I were to build a cage like this type to hold my 2-100lb tanks:
1. would it be ok to use aluminum angle and tube? ( it is easier to drill and cut than roll steel for me )
2. How did you shape the flat bar to the tank? ( good old fashion hold against and bend with all your might?)
3. What type of pad could I place under the tank to give it a little cushion? ( would weather stripping work around the bottom rim of tank and between the flat bar and tank body?)
 
I plan to mount them on my existing bumper, not directly on but just a hair above and bracketed to my outer back doors that and now permanently closed.


 
any advise or comments is greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Cheetah,
Just some thoughts of mine from looking at your pics that I would probably do if I had what you had to work with.
I would mount my propane tanks on the elevated portions of the bumber on each side of the door. The diameter of the 100 pound tanks is just under 15" if I remember right from last week. I'm not sure how far your bumber comes out but if it doesn't come out that far then you could just get some peices of of like 1/4" steel plate and fasten that to your bumber then put the tanks on the plate. On the side walls of your truck then you could get some 1" angle iron about 36" long and attach those pieces on each side of the tank and then make straps the same way I did.
The flat bar is SUPER easy to form and yes I just layed the tank down, put the flat against the tank and pushed down. Minimal effort.
If you go alumimum you angle you'll need structural alluminum. The steel they sell at Menards though is not some crazy industrial stuff. It's strong but not super thick so if you have a hack saw you can cut it that way or a saws all or a angle grinder with cutting wheel.(thats what I used)
For the platform, what I did is used a spray on rubber sealant. After dried it is VERY durable. This way I don't get the metal to metal contact and scraping then rusting. Its nasty stuff when wet but makes a very nice barrier. They sell this at Menards as well. You could also get rubber sheet like 3/16 of an inch or so to place on the bottom if you want.
 
Hope I helped some.

"Hope I helped some"
 
Yes very much so thanks a lot your great !!!! my risen bumper ends measure 11.5" so I do need the plate on bottom cut larger but you got me on the right track thanks again
 
Keep up the good work

PC if you didn't remove your door hinge (assuming you removed the doors). The bottom hinge would make a perfect place to use a strap to go around your tanks. Although I'm uncertain how you'd connect it and to what on the other side. There is a guy here in town that just built a food truck and he used heavy straps (like a tow strap) to mount his tanks, and I thought it was a good idea because it won't scratch up your propane tank and his were very tight. He may have used a ratchet type 2 inch strap on his tanks. Just a thought.

Thanks DoB I will look at ratchet straps tomorrow when I go out. I know walmart has them to I got a few from there already, I plan to used the ratchet straps to strap my equipment to the stands while the truck is in transit. Since the stands will be bolted to the floor, they won't move but the equipment might especially with my driving.
 
I am building the frames for the tank tomorrow, wish me luck !!!

So I built the awning door for my serving window but did not document the steps in building it sorry.
 
 
 

 


 
My question is to those who have awnings like this. How much clearance do you have between the door and the window when the door is closed like in the pic above? I have like 1/2" and am unsure if a gas support lift will fit.
 
Thanks
 

what are the white things holding on frp? also where did you get the corner sheet metal?

Bistro a go-go


what are the white things holding on frp? also where did you get the corner sheet metal?

What you are asking about are 1/4" plastic pin rivets. I got them at Menards cause at the time Home Depot didn't have them available when I got the frp from them. I complained to them and told them that the manufacturer of the FRP they are selling recommends installing with both FRP adhesive and the plastic pin rivets. He told me he never saw it installed that way and referred me to Fastenal. Well I already knew Menards had them but wanted this to be a one stop shop. I gotta tell ya, my complaint worked cause I was just in Home Depot like 2 weeks ago and BAM they now stock and sell them. :)
 
If you have followed my thread you know that I installed adhesive the first time with a crappy wall covering product then ripped it all out then re did it with good FRP. Well when I put the good stuff up I only used plastic pin riveys and no adhesive and it looks and works great. No sagging or bubbling of any kind and much easier than applying adhesive.
 
The corner metal you see on the interior walls is like .050 aluminium that was installed as a finished product when I bought the trailer new. I saved it for reinstall and reused. The reason they used it is cause in the front of the trailer the corners are rounded so this was easier than rounding out some sheet metal and in the rear there is trailer wiring running behind it. A sheet metal shop could easily bend some of the stuff for you if you wanted it. My local sheet metal shop stocks all gauges of aluminum and stainless.
 
Just an update to my post:
I had my state of MN electrical inspection done last week and past with flying colors. He said we was impressed!! :) :) :)
I also had my state of MN Health Inspection done and also past with flying colors. :) Felt soooooooooo good getting that out of the way let me tell you guys!!!
 
I had a practice run on some food over the weekend for my sons birthday party and it was hectic and I learned alot as to where I need to improve in terms of quality first and speed second.  My first event of the season is in less than 2 weeks.
 
 

"Just an update to my post:
I had my state of MN electrical inspection done last week and past with flying colors. He said we was impressed!! :) :) :)
I also had my state of MN Health Inspection done and also past with flying colors. :) Felt soooooooooo good getting that out of the way let me tell you guys!!!
 
I had a practice run on some food over the weekend for my sons birthday party and it was hectic and I learned alot as to where I need to improve in terms of quality first and speed second.  My first event of the season is in less than 2 weeks."
 
Great to hear that I am so happy for you....you have worked your azzz off and your build is quite impressive, good luck to you.

I'm going to add another deep cycle battery so i'll have more capacity and then Im going to get a Charge Wizard by Intellipower and keep that hooked up to the batteries so that the batteries will always be charged.
Hi Kingofcreams,
I am a newbe, can you explain what this (above) means and why you are doing this? Will your trailer run off batteries or is this to supply electricity to your freezers and fridge at night? How will you charge them?
 
Thanks

Very nice build !!!

fatOlady


I'm going to add another deep cycle battery so i'll have more capacity and then Im going to get a Charge Wizard by Intellipower and keep that hooked up to the batteries so that the batteries will always be charged.
Hi Kingofcreams,
I am a newbe, can you explain what this (above) means and why you are doing this? Will your trailer run off batteries or is this to supply electricity to your freezers and fridge at night? How will you charge them?
 
Thanks

I actually wont be adding a second battery as one will work just fine. At the time I posted this I wasn't totally informed as to the operation of this Charge Wizard as I had never used one.
So, you understand... My lighting, exhaust hood fan, water heater (for propane ignition) and water supply pump to my sink faucets are all 12vdc (battery power). I installed a deep cycle marine battery to supply power to this equipment. I wanted a hassle free way to charge this battery so decided I'd install a Charge Wizard to keep it charged. After I looked more into the Charge Wizard I learned that not only does it monitor and charge my battery, ( 3 different charging modes based on output of battery) but it also suppies 12 volt power so that a battery really isn't needed at all but it must be supplied with 120v house aka shore power in order to convert to 12vdc power. In other words this Charge Wizard is a battery monitor/charger/converter. Having the battery installed allows you to still have lights, water, hot water, exaust fan in the event of a power outage or circuit breaker trip and your so busy (at least ya hope ;) ) that you cant break away to reset the breaker thats 75 feet from your rig. (happens more often than I'd like) Let me know if your still confused or you have any other questions.
 

Pablo73


Very nice build !!!

Thanks Pablo!

hi I am new to this forum and I just purchased a 7/14 concession trailer and  I am really having a hard time trying to figure out what size generator do i need .

WILLIGOODZ


hi I am new to this forum and I just purchased a 7/14 concession trailer and  I am really having a hard time trying to figure out what size generator do i need .

What will you have in it? The name plate on equipment usually gives you the voltage and amperage of the appliance so if you multiply voltage times amperage you'll get your watts. Ex: a food warmer at 115 volts that draws 9.5 amps will use 1092.5 watts. you need to add the wattage for all your equipment and then figure on going bigger than that total for your generator. Maybe 10% bigger? I'm not sure.

I am just starting to accumulate equipment etc. for my build but would be interested in how you framed and built your concession door.  I have looked for aluminum extrusion to frame but have yet to hook up anywhere.  I like your door...can you give a little detail.
Thanks
 

Wagon the last post on this thread was in June I'm sure he is out working every day. Maybe you'd like to start a thread of your own.
good luck
jack

kingofcreams


So I built the awning door for my serving window but did not document the steps in building it sorry.








My question is to those who have awnings like this. How much clearance do you have between the door and the window when the door is closed like in the pic above? I have like 1/2" and am unsure if a gas support lift will fit.

Thanks

Hi KOC...
I've really enjoyed reading and watching your progress.  I've owned an RV dealership, enjoy metal fabrication and enjoy the build.  I have a little hesitation with the concession door.  Not so much the cut but trimming, etc.  Would you mind telling me what aluminum extrusion you used for the framing, etc?  Also, can you give a littel detail on the door construction process?  Nice looking kitchen!!

Dr of BBQ


Wagon the last post on this thread was in June I'm sure he is out working every day. Maybe you'd like to start a thread of your own.
good luck
jack

New to bloggin also Jack.  Thanks for the advice.
corey

Wagon

kingofcreams


So I built the awning door for my serving window but did not document the steps in building it sorry.






My question is to those who have awnings like this. How much clearance do you have between the door and the window when the door is closed like in the pic above? I have like 1/2" and am unsure if a gas support lift will fit.

Thanks

Hi KOC...
I've really enjoyed reading and watching your progress.  I've owned an RV dealership, enjoy metal fabrication and enjoy the build.  I have a little hesitation with the concession door.  Not so much the cut but trimming, etc.  Would you mind telling me what aluminum extrusion you used for the framing, etc?  Also, can you give a littel detail on the door construction process?  Nice looking kitchen!!

Thanks and glad your getting something from my thread. Thats why I started one was just to give back a little of what I got.
So on the awning door: I used extruded aluminum channel 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" I got this from www.speedymetals.com
 3/4" {A} x 3/4" {B} x 1/8" {C} Channel 6063-T52 Aluminum, Extruded-48"
SKU: 63ch.125x.75x.75-48
I also used 3/8 plywood, .063 aluminum sheet and a pieace of the same FRP that I used for my wall overlayment inside the trailer.
I had the  .063 aluminum sheet cut to size at a local sheet metal shop. I had to cut down the ply wood and FRP myself. I miter cut the aluminum channel then basically made a sandwich with the aluminum sheet on one side, the plywood in the middle and the frp on the other side. I used a polyurethane adhesive to glue both sheets to the plywood and let it sit overnight. I had taken some smaller aluminum channel that would fit inside the channel mentioned above and cut that down to make triangles. I also had to cut the corners off of the "sandwich" because those smaller pieces of channel went inside the larger channel at each corner. Then I slid one piece of channel on at a time insterting the smaller piece of channel at the corner until all four sides were on.  It was a pretty tight fit too but worked well. After that all fit together I drilled holes in the channel at the miter cuts, one on each of each piece and through the smaller pieces of channel and riveted the outer channel to the small angles that I cut and insterted. I flipped the door over and did the same on that side. After that I took some 100% silicone and cut the tip real small and caulked along all the edges and rivet holes. Caulking should have been placed inside the channel too but I didn't do that. The door came out heavy and very sturdy and has worked very well after doing 12 events. This is the same way I contructed the doors for under my sink counter inside as well except I used two pieces of FRP on each side of 1/4" plywood for that because the FRP is thicker than .063 aluminum. I bought and installed gas lift supports and the whole thing couldn't have come out better. I am pretty happy with it. I also installed a handle as you can see and two cam locks once on each side of the door. The latches of the locks latch to pieces of angle aluminum that I installed inside the space between the window and the awning. This door only costed me about $120 to build.
 
Let me know if I can help in anyother way.

I just want to say I've gone thru your whole post and LOVE IT! My boss and I have decided to build a concession trailer using an old BeeLiner mobile home. I've already got a lot of information from web-surfing, and I do have a basic knowledge of light framing construction, so that will help with what we want to get done. I love how you have detailed this process, and I WILL do the same thing. The only thing I'll have to do extra is eventually replace the old tin roof and the outside walls of the trailer. If anybody has any ideals about replacing the outside walls and what to use, that would be a big help to us. I've bookmarked this thread; I feel I'll be coming back here to double-check my process with what you've done. We pick up our trailer on Oct. 12-14, 2012. When we do, I'm going to take some pics of it and start a thread of my own. Thanks again for sharing your vision with everybody, because to me, you just proved to me and probably a bunch of other people that ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE!!
Jerry
JBJR Concessions and Sales

JBJRConcessions


I just want to say I've gone thru your whole post and LOVE IT! My boss and I have decided to build a concession trailer using an old BeeLiner mobile home. I've already got a lot of information from web-surfing, and I do have a basic knowledge of light framing construction, so that will help with what we want to get done. I love how you have detailed this process, and I WILL do the same thing. The only thing I'll have to do extra is eventually replace the old tin roof and the outside walls of the trailer. If anybody has any ideals about replacing the outside walls and what to use, that would be a big help to us. I've bookmarked this thread; I feel I'll be coming back here to double-check my process with what you've done. We pick up our trailer on Oct. 12-14, 2012. When we do, I'm going to take some pics of it and start a thread of my own. Thanks again for sharing your vision with everybody, because to me, you just proved to me and probably a bunch of other people that ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE!!
Jerry
JBJR Concessions and Sales

I'm happy you are able to come away with something from my thread. For your siding. I would consider this to be one of your top priorities after you have budgeted for the interior. First impressions is huge. I would get .040 painted smooth aluminum sheeting to install on the exterior. You can get it from a local sheet metal shop or try a google search for those terms. You can also check out  http://fishhousesupply.com/icehousekits.htm . They sell sheets but have a 10 sheet minimum. I think you'll need more than that anyway. Good luck on your build. I'll check it out once you start a thread. If you need any advice along the way, don't hesitate to ask.

Just wanna give a little info that I've found as far as exterior skins go: 49" x 96" x .040 wash over white @ $ 63.52 each.
I found these thru J. Freeman Inc. 65 Tenean Street Dorchester, MA 02122 Here is their website:

I forgot.... I haven't been here long enough to post links,  but you can still search for them on the web.

http://www.jfreeman.com/
 
J. Freeman, Inc. is an industrial distributor catering to commercial businesses since 1927. We are a distributor carrying VELCRO® brand fasteners exclusively, as well as Plexiglas®, Silicone, gold leaf, cutting boards, sky lights, and more. We also lease sign, graphics, printing, and contractor equipment. NEW ITEM acrylic sheets in white, black, bronze, grey are now available. For a complete list of what we carry, please see our product list.
We accept Visa, MasterCard, and American Express.
We sell wholesale and retail to sign companies, glass companies, construction companies, architects, and home owners. We carry a large stock and ship same day in almost all cases. We can provide quotes and technical information immediately on your call. You don't have to punch in numbers. Our sales staff is accessible and knowledgeable.
We sell Roper Whitney tools and equipment. Ask about our easy lease terms!
If you have any questions or would like to place an order please call us at:
(617) 282-1150  or  (800) 841-9442
or fax us at:
(617) 282-7507
J. Freeman, Inc.
65 Tenean Street Dorchester, MA 02122
Contact Us

Thanks for posting the information on J. Freeman. Like I said, they seem to be the cheapest as far as trailer skins go that I can find. We did get our trailer and have been gutting it out in our spare time. It's a poster child for a basket case, but we're determined to at least have the inside 100%. I might not be able to do the outside skin replacement this winter, but there's always next year. Holding down a full time job don't allow much time to work on it, but I figure, weather permitting, I should have the roof patched and rubber roof paste on it within 2 weeks. I have been taking pics as I go, and we've agreed to make a scrapbook of this project. So once I'm able to post pics on here, I'll show what we started with. Thanks again for sharing and giving people like us hope for the future!! :-)

JBJR fast is not always good, in fact it's almost never good in a build. The longer you take thinking, planing, and researching, the better your build/outcome will be. Heck with a full time job you have lots of winter nights to search RF and the internet for information that will make your trailer an easy to operate food service success.

Oh, believe me, research is about all I've been doing on this. This became a working ideal the 1st week of August, and now we got the trailer almost down to the frame. We're going to do it from ground up instead of work with the junk that's there. 1 place I have found for used equipment is Fast Track Auctions. They have a LOT of used equipment, you just have to be willing to go and inspect it before you get caught up in the bidding. Last night I watched a Star 36" flat-top grill go for 380.00, that's normally about a 900.00 - 1,000.00 grill. I'm trying to get a fountain machine right now, the current bid is under 150.00, the last 1 I saw went for 90.00, but this is a lot newer. On another side note: Found 25 gauge galvanized interlock roof through KMT in New York state. The quote they gave me was under 200.00 plus shipping for a whole single piece roof. That's the best I've been able to find on that so far. I'm off most of this week, so I'm hoping to get some things done. Talk to everybody later!! :-)

King,
I am very impressed not only with the build, but the gracious time you spent documenting it.  I am very interested in installing something similar to your window / awning (I just don't have 1300 bucks laying around for a window), and I was wondering if you had more info on the window itself, prep for the wall (other than just wood framing?), etc.
It appeared that the window framing was flush with the exterior, with the window inset a bit, but now with the awning it appears that the window frame has been trimmed in aluminum. 
I understand that you can't spell out every nut and bolt you put in, but either I missed a few steps, or am too old and dumb to follow :)

ddbuster:
Well the window itself came from Menards. It is just a residential sliding window. The size is 36" x 48". The metal studs in this trailer are 24" on center so when I cut my opening I only needed to cut through one stud. I then made a 2x3 frame to reinforced the opening. I attached the 2x3's to the studs on each side. On the top and bottom of the framing in between the vertical studs I attached 1x2's to the upper and lower sides of the 2x3's which I was able to screw the plywood wall to for stability. These 1x2's are in the walls ( not visible) but are attached to the 2x3 framing on top and bottom. The 2x3 framing was installed flush with the exterior skin and actually sticks out inside the trailer by about 1 1/2 inches or so. It's been a while so I might not be exact. I then priming and painted the framing. The window has a installation flange with mounting holes all around so I attached the window from the inside of the trailer onto the inside edges of the 2 x 3 frame. I then trimmed the outside with aluminum angle
Installing from the inside like this indented the window from the outside which gave me a 1 1/2" ledge where I was able to mount the shocks and hinge for the windown awning that I made.
 
For the awning itself I used 1/2" inside measurement aluminum channel for the framing. All the ends were miter cut at 45 deg angle. I sandwiched a piece of either 1/4" or 3/8" plywood ( cant remember now ) inbetween .040 aluminum sheet for the exterior side and a piece of FRP for the interior side. Each corner of the  plywood, aluminum and FRP were cut so that I could fit a smaller piece of channel ( which were cut at 45 deg angles ) inside the corners of the 1/2" channel.  After those sheets were sandwiched, I slipped the 1/2 channel over the sheets one side at a time. After one side was on I placed the smaller cut channel pieces in the corners of the 1/2 channel untill all were installed. Once all sides were over the sheets and in place I drilled holes through the channel where the 45 deg angle met all the way through the smaller pieces that were placed inside the corners. I then pop riveted those pieces together. I did this on all corners and on both sides. I should mention, that the 1/2 channel was hard to slip over the sheets but it straightend out the bend ply wood. Also, I used silicone in the channel before I slipped over the sheets and after very neatly around all edges. Once complete, I used a stainless piano hinge to install to the trailer window opening. I then installed gas struts / shocks to lift and hold the awning open. I also installed cam locks and a handle.  
I hope this helps a little. I am rushing to write this before I leave for work so just ask if you need clarification on something else.
 
Good luck and thanks for checking out my thread.

Very nice job on the trailer build

Let us know how you end up fastening that griddle/table down.

DWags541


Let us know how you end up fastening that griddle/table down.

DWags, the method I used was laid out in post 33 of page 2 of the thread. Take a look and if you have some specific questions ask and I'll answer the best I can. This method has worked perfectly so far and I've take my trailer on many road trips now with no issues whatsoever.
 
 

stinger159


Very nice job on the trailer build

Thank you very much. I hope you gained something from the thread. I'm pretty well please with what I ended up with. I'm thinking about installing a 50amp 220volt service to the trailer but not sure yet. I'm having the trailer and ice cream truck wrapped next week so with that expense I'm sorta drained for cash a bit.
 
I'll post pics of each after the wraps are installed.

please tell me how your cut the stainless steel for the sink counter so perfectly?
 
 

yorkgym1


please tell me how your cut the stainless steel for the sink counter so perfectly?

After I drew my outline I used an angle grinder with a cutting blade and carefully cut it out. It wasn't perfect and the edges were rough. i went over the edges with a grinding wheel on. Also, when I placed my stainless on my counter top, I used masking tape around every edge prior to placing my silicone sealant to cover up any uglyness and to give it crisp clean lines so that it came out with a very nice finish.
 
Thanks

I learned so much from your thread .. thanks for all the time you took to post pics and info details like the caulk used , prima supply..( that is the exact sink I was looking at t btw) southco latch...
Tony

yorkgym1


I learned so much from your thread .. thanks for all the time you took to post pics and info details like the caulk used , prima supply..( that is the exact sink I was looking at t btw) southco latch...
Tony

Tony,
That's why I posted, is to help out people like myself who could use ideas or even possibly learn something. I'm glad my post is serving that purpose for you!
 
Just a note on those owning step vans looking to replace the weatherstrip for your windows, I recently replaced the rubber weatherstripping in all my windows except the driver and passenger door windows for my 81 Chev P20. I have a bit extra of the 1/4"window x 1/8" panel size rubber that I'd sell for $1/foot plus shipping but would have to take the remainder of what I have. I can measure to see how much I have left. Mill supply sells it in 50ft rolls. Now for those wanting to replace the rubber in your doors with a 3/4" door thikness, mill suppy doesn't carry this even though the gasket they say works really doesn't. I've been on the phone with them and they even sent something else that didn't work. They claimed that this rubber couldnt be obtained. I have located the rubber that will work but I have to order a 50ft roll if this as well and I only need like 18-19 feet. I'd sell the remainder of that as well to someone after I recieve and use what I need. It'll save us both money by not having to pay for all that material that we don't need. I'll have to figure a price on that though. probly be around $2/foot plus shipping. Both prices are less than what I am paying per foot.
 
We're bringing our trailer and ice cream truck for graphics wraps today. The trailer will be done by Friday and the truck will be done next Tuesday. Very exciting! Can't wait to show you guys.

I wanted to give you guys an update on what my trailer currently looks like after the wrap was installed! Can't believe how great it turned out. 
  
 

 
Theres a glimse of our ice cream cart in lower left corner.


Our ice cream truck will be done tomorrow so I'll post pics of that as well once I get them.
 
Thanks for looking

 
Not sure why it keeps not posting my post but there were more pics of the trailer. The whole thing got wrapped including the front.

more pics at:
http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/kingofcreams/library/#/user/kingofcreams/library/?sort=3&page=1&_suid=13685554893430943723305841925

Dope!