Hot!Concession Trailer Build with intro

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reese77
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/03/29 18:37:51 (permalink)
[link=showprofile.aspx?memid=134523]kingofcreams[/link],
 
Where did you buy the Southco compression latches? Ebay and Google searches have not produced the the ones in your picture.
#31
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/03/30 08:01:37 (permalink)
I got them off of Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200705489350?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649   Thats the auction i bought them from. They had 5 total now down to 1. If thats not all you need then when you search, search for Southco C2, Southco Lever latch, southco latch.
Here another link to what I found on amazon by searching in google for just "southco latch": http://www.amazon.com/Southco-Inc-SC-42211-Adjustable-Latches/dp/B002I05QM2 
 
Hope this helps
 
reese77

[link=showprofile.aspx?memid=134523]kingofcreams[/link],

Where did you buy the Southco compression latches? Ebay and Google searches have not produced the the ones in your picture.


#32
reese77
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/03/30 12:53:37 (permalink)
Perfect. Thanks.
#33
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/11 13:01:32 (permalink)

Here is the front of the trailer where my 3/4 inch black iron pipe starts. In this photo I installed a air fitting so I could charge the line with air to check for leaks. Everything checked out ok. I also installed shut off valves upstream (before) each piece of equipment being served by this line. The valves were all off while making this check as I did not want to damage the propane regulator I installed for the griddle and for the gas valve which has a built in regulator for the water heater.

here I reduced from 3/4 inch pipe to 1/2 up to my water heater. The water heater connection is 3/8 flare so I had to reduce and convert inside also.

Heres the 3/4 pipe making the 14 ft trip down towards the rear of the trailer to feed the griddle and deep fryer. I used plumbers tape to secure the piping to the underside of the trailer.
 

Heres the opposite end where it 90 deg's over and then up into the trailer for the griddle / deep fryer
 

I installed a drip-T to catch any debris that make have gotten in the line as the result of my install. I probably should have installed it at the front of the trailer instead.
 

 

 

 
Making the flared tubing for the connection to the water heater.
 

Heres where some time was takin. Not in the actual install but in the method of attaching the equipment to the floors. First, pics are not shown but I removed the top of the griddle stand, removed the adjustable portion of the legs of the griddle and that exposed about 3/8 of an inch of threads on the legs of the griddle. The size of the griddle legs bolt is 5/8" fine thread. So with the griddle stand top removed from it's legs. I figured out where the griddle legs would match up and then I drilled 5/8 holes in the stand top. Then with griddle upside down I placed the stand top over the threads of the griddle legs and attached using 5/8 nuts. Tightened them down alot to get more threads to catch. I applied 100 silicone to the threads to act as a thread lock. After the griddle was attached firmly to the stand top I reinstalled the legs to the stand.
What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighted to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges.


I crancked very tightly to the legs at the flange. To the point the leg was indented and provided a nice cove for the set screw to be to prevent any leg movement.
 


Same thing for the griddle but using 1 1/4 inch flanges

 
I tugged on the equipment after I was done and nothing budged except for the trailer itself. We'll see how well this works. I wanted the cleanest, neatest looking safe method I could think of. I hope I found it.
 
 
#34
reese77
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/11 17:45:07 (permalink)
Looks really good. Why didn't you mount your hood flush with the ceiling? Just curious.
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THE WILD DOG
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/11 18:29:03 (permalink)
low profile concession exhaust probably.. don't need to be mounted high and can actually use the top for a shelf
 
#36
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/11 20:33:52 (permalink)
"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."
 
Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack
#37
mofood
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 03:46:11 (permalink)
Dr of BBQ

"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."

Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack

No doubt! Excellent work King. Where did you find these floor flanges? Mcmaster? Looking now. :)
Propane is fun
#38
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 07:53:45 (permalink)
Almost any hardware store, Lowe's, Menard's, or farm supply store carries them and they come in black iron, or galvanized. They are fairly inexpensive and are often used to make tables. Put them under a sheet of plywood and screw black iron pipe into them for table legs.
#39
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 08:14:43 (permalink)
As Wild Dog said. The hood is a "low proximity hood" aka "back shelf hood". The spec'd distance from the cooking surface to the upper lip of the hood is 8" to 26" so I went like 22". Any lower and it felt like you'd be cooking in a dark cave. 
reese77

Looks really good. Why didn't you mount your hood flush with the ceiling? Just curious.


#40
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 08:17:13 (permalink)
Well I appreciate the compliment greatly. I went around how to mount this stuff for a while which is why I just got it done. In my mind neat and clean is mandatory all the while keeping it safe and secure.
Dr of BBQ

"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."

Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack


#41
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 08:20:58 (permalink)
I was just going to let the hood thing go but it still puzzles me. Sorry, but where height wise is the front of your hood going to be in proximate to your face when your working your equipment?
 
Is it high enough that you can work the very back of say a flattop grill without ducking under the hood?
#42
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 08:21:13 (permalink)
Thanks much Mo! Yes the Dr has directed you right. These are standard plumbing fittings sold at most any hardware store. I got mine from Menards cause it's like 2 miles from my house. The 1" were $3.99 each and the 1 1/4" were like $4.49. Another option I considered were the plastic floor flanges cause there were alot thicker and the lip was bigger but it's plastic. It could crack or something.
mofood

Dr of BBQ

"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."

Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack

No doubt! Excellent work King. Where did you find these floor flanges? Mcmaster? Looking now. :)
Propane is fun


#43
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 08:33:32 (permalink)
I hear your concerns believe me I do. The hood depth is 28" so this makes it so my equipment is underhung by 2 inches. This hood can actually under hang the equipment by 4 1/2 inches too if you felt to caved in. The top of the hood is about even with the bottom of my chin when standing. Basically you'd just reach. I mimic'd the cooking action and it didn't seem uncomfortable. If it were lower however I think it would be cause it seems you'd have to duct to see what the heck you were doing and how the heck would light get under there.

Dr of BBQ
I was just going to let the hood thing go but it still puzzles me. Sorry, but where height wise is the front of your hood going to be in proximate to your face when your working your equipment?

Is it high enough that you can work the very back of say a flattop grill without ducking under the hood?


post edited by kingofcreams - 2012/04/12 08:35:06
#44
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 08:44:26 (permalink)
Speaking of light under your hood they do make lights that are for that.
Here is an example
http://www.hoodfilters.co...8oqqr68CFYZoKgod0gnCpw
 
In fact I was going (and still may) to use this type of light for my step van build. So I bought a bunch of them on an Ebay auction 2 years ago. I have never opened the box. My thought at the time was neons are a pain because you have to use the expensive plastic sleeves over the bulbs and they get dirty very quickly and are a pain to clean. These on the other hand  are sealed and the outside is easy to clean.

One more thought on lighting be sure when you decide where to place your light fixtures no mater what you use you don't want it behind you or it will cause a shadow on what ever your working on. You want it above and in front.  
post edited by Dr of BBQ - 2012/04/12 08:50:17
#45
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 08:46:45 (permalink)
kingofcreams
  If it were lower however I think it would be cause it seems you'd have to duct to see what the heck you were doing and how the heck would light get under there.

 
"you'd have to duck to see what the heck you were doing" That was my concern.
jack
post edited by Dr of BBQ - 2012/04/12 08:51:28
#46
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 09:37:00 (permalink)
Good point on fixture location. I actually ordered my lights yesterday. THis is what I got: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=BARS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fwlfa2_specs.htm#photos My lighting is going to be off of 12 volt so thats why I went with these. I'll have to see how the light is dispursed. Also, I have an email into the manufacture rep who sold me the hood to see if a light can be installed in the hood. Well I could installd one but that doesn't mean I can install one ;) . I'll report back what they say on that. If so I may install one. I'd have to run wire and wiremold but should be easy enough.
 
Dr of BBQ

Speaking of light under your hood they do make lights that are for that.
Here is an example
http://www.hoodfilters.co...8oqqr68CFYZoKgod0gnCpw

In fact I was going (and still may) to use this type of light for my step van build. So I bought a bunch of them on an Ebay auction 2 years ago. I have never opened the box. My thought at the time was neons are a pain because you have to use the expensive plastic sleeves over the bulbs and they get dirty very quickly and are a pain to clean. These on the other hand  are sealed and the outside is easy to clean.

One more thought on lighting be sure when you decide where to place your light fixtures no mater what you use you don't want it behind you or it will cause a shadow on what ever your working on. You want it above and in front.  


#47
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 09:56:40 (permalink)
Here is the response I got:

Courtland,
Glad to hear the install went well for you! No, lights are not available in that style of hood, the hood is just too small and hangs too close to the cooking surface. You need to add exterior lights around the hood.
Thanks,
[class="apple"]Matt Friede [class="apple"]| [class="apple"]Technical Sales | Region 75
CaptiveAire, Inc. Commercial & Industrial Ventilation 
By Venpro Company



 
 
Dr of BBQ

Speaking of light under your hood they do make lights that are for that.
Here is an example
http://www.hoodfilters.co...8oqqr68CFYZoKgod0gnCpw

In fact I was going (and still may) to use this type of light for my step van build. So I bought a bunch of them on an Ebay auction 2 years ago. I have never opened the box. My thought at the time was neons are a pain because you have to use the expensive plastic sleeves over the bulbs and they get dirty very quickly and are a pain to clean. These on the other hand  are sealed and the outside is easy to clean.

One more thought on lighting be sure when you decide where to place your light fixtures no mater what you use you don't want it behind you or it will cause a shadow on what ever your working on. You want it above and in front.  


#48
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 10:11:10 (permalink)
kingofcreams Good point on fixture location. I actually ordered my lights yesterday. THis is what I got: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=BARS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fwlfa2_specs.htm#photos My lighting is going to be off of 12 volt so thats why I went with these. I'll have to see how the light is dispursed. Also, I have an email into the manufacture rep who sold me the hood to see if a light can be installed in the hood. Well I could installd one but that doesn't mean I can install one ;) . I'll report back what they say on that. If so I may install one. I'd have to run wire and wiremold but should be easy enough.

 
See there you go just as I was about to switch my mind and go with my original lighting plan you post this and raise a bunch of questions in my mind on 12 V VS 120 Volts. LOL
If a LED in the middle of these strips goes out can it be replaced?
Or do they pretty much last and then you just replace the entire strip?
How bright are they at say 4 foot above the work area?  (you get to be the guinea pig on this I guess) with all due respect.
See just a bunch of questions and no answers LOL oh well.
#49
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 10:16:00 (permalink)
Off the thread topic but I pulled out the ice cream truck last night and started empying it and I thought I'd snap some pics and share.



#50
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 10:23:43 (permalink)
Well for me, I only installed a 115 volt 30 amp service with two circuits. So 12 volt lighting is the only option. I have 12 volt in my ice cream truck too and it works well. PLus I would be able to run my entire rig off the 3200 watt Suburu inverter genny I bought for the ice cream truck as well if needed. I will be the guinea pig and report back for sure. And yes, LED are installed on a circuit board for lack of better wording so you'd just replace the whole thing. $25 isn't too much and the lumens were the best I could find for this price by far.
 
Dr of BBQ

kingofcreams Good point on fixture location. I actually ordered my lights yesterday. THis is what I got: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=BARS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fwlfa2_specs.htm#photos My lighting is going to be off of 12 volt so thats why I went with these. I'll have to see how the light is dispursed. Also, I have an email into the manufacture rep who sold me the hood to see if a light can be installed in the hood. Well I could installd one but that doesn't mean I can install one ;) . I'll report back what they say on that. If so I may install one. I'd have to run wire and wiremold but should be easy enough.


See there you go just as I was about to switch my mind and go with my original lighting plan you post this and raise a bunch of questions in my mind on 12 V VS 120 Volts. LOL
If a LED in the middle of these strips goes out can it be replaced?
Or do they pretty much last and then you just replace the entire strip?
How bright are they at say 4 foot above the work area?  (you get to be the guinea pig on this I guess) with all due respect.
See just a bunch of questions and no answers LOL oh well.


post edited by kingofcreams - 2012/04/12 10:26:41
#51
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 11:48:35 (permalink)
I want to buy one or both of your ice cream cones if you want to sell them? What are they made of?
jack
#52
marco226
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/12 13:14:50 (permalink)
awsome build. learned a lot from this build. i could not find anywhere the floor flanges. that is how i want to mount my equipment.
now i know what to look for. i went to home depot they only had one size. they will be ok for my sink. good luck to you.
now i want ice cream lol
#53
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/27 15:33:09 (permalink)
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Just giving an update. I installed my waste water tank and fresh water fill and drain. I did get and install the LED lights and I am pretty pleased with them. I will update later this evening if I can. Dr. the ice cream cones are made of plastic. I am missing the top on one as I lost it making a trip last year. I ordered hand dipped ones instead but two weeks after I ordered them they called and said they were out of stock. I gotta try again but i'm rushing around trying to get this build done so I can get it inspected. I got the cones from greatbigstuff.com
#54
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/27 16:59:02 (permalink)
Thanks for the tip on Big Stuff. I wish they had a giant BBQ Sandwich to go with my giant hot dog.
#55
chefbuba
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/27 20:47:52 (permalink)
Couldn't you get that tank between the beams??....That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining........
#56
mikejames533
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/28 16:54:55 (permalink)
chefbuba

Couldn't you get that tank between the beams??....That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining........

 
+1  I see problems ahead with tank and plumbing. And I think your hood will need raised or it will be a pain in the back and neck to work!
#57
THE WILD DOG
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/28 18:01:05 (permalink)
you are gonna wanna re-think the straps used to hold that waste tank, it WILL NOT hold and you will be hating life... Reese & I both used a threaded rod and uni-strut to support the tank. Check out his build thread for a picture.
 
AWESOME job on the equipment flanges, I will be using these on my griddle stand, I't been moving around a bit and that is the LAST thing I want moving with my $3000 griddle on it.   MOFOOD you can get them at any Lowes & HD's in the plumbing section where the gas fittings are.
#58
Dr of BBQ
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/28 22:23:06 (permalink)
Before you buy anything to anchor your equipment to the floor or stainless steel tables check this site out:
http://www.wagnercompanie...name=article&rpid=
HEAVY BASE FLANGE WITH SET SCREW AND TWO HOLES  in Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Brass, Bronze.

But give the credit to Marco he found them and sent the link to me.
jack
#59
kingofcreams
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Re:Concession Trailer Build with intro 2012/04/30 09:33:40 (permalink)
No, the tank wouldnt fit between the beams after I installed my gas line. I would have had to reroute the gas line which would include obtaining a die set and threading the pipe after I cut it out.  The tank sits highter than the axle and the walls are 1/4" thick so well see how well it will hold up. As far as drainage, there is a about a 31" rise from sink to the top of the tank so water will drain even if a bit out of level.
 
I bought this tank back in december off of ebay cause it was a good deal. I would prefer to have the same style tank as my fresh water tank but there are plenty other things that I need to buy still to get this completed so I'm just making due and even with getting the other style tank, I would only gain like 2 inches or 3 inches in depth. 
 
 
chefbuba

Couldn't you get that tank between the beams??....That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining........


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