Concession Trailer Build with intro

I have been lurking around the boards for a couple months getting ideas and seeing what others are building and how they are doing it so I'm starting this thread to hopefully help give back to anyone who may find anything I post somewhat helpfull in their future or current project or endeavors. Thanks to all those that contribute to these boards because the info shared really is invaluable!!
I started running an ice cream truck up here in northern Minnesota in 2008. There hadn't been an ice cream truck around this area prior for at least 10 years from what I was told by the city clerks office. Once I got started I mainly did routes and then started getting into festivals, arts/craft shows etc etc.  on the weekends. Well working full time as a mechanical maintenance supervisor for 8 hours a day then coming home only to climb into the ice cream truck to run a route until dark everyday then on the weekends working at an event for 12 hours each day and having family responsibilities started to catch up to me so last year I didn't run any routes at all and just did the weekend (some four days long) events. At the end of the event selling season last year It started weighing on me that I should expand somehow and so I started contemplating buying a used concession trailer to replace the ice cream truck at events. This addition would be so much easier too since I was driving the ICT on a 20 foot flat bed trailer, strapping it down then making the journey to the event then unloading, unstrapping once I got there only to do it all again at the end. Another benefit of a trailer was that the ICT would be kept in town and I could hire a driver to do the routes. After looking at crappy trailers that cost too much and I would have to modify anyway to be able to serve hand dipped ice cream I decided to build my own.  I purchased a brand new 16 x 7 foot cargo trailer for $3400 back in November of 2011 and have been chipping away at it since.
 
So far I have insulated the walls, installed my electric wiring behing the plywood walls, installed FRP on the walls, installed black white commercial VCT tiles on the floor, installed 30 amp service panel and GFCI outlets (5) with one outside, put in the serving window, installed the vent hood with stainless steel underneath. ( still need to install the fan and run my stack through the ceiling), I built a cabinet for the counter top that my sinks were going to be dropped into, then had to tear half of it apart because of a little glitch in my floor plan then rebuild it, installed stainless steel on top, installed my hot water heater and fresh water tank, plumbing to take place today hopefully. I also have purchased a new 24 inch LP griddle, a new LP deep fryer, a new 27 cu ft flip top door ice cream dipping freezer and a used 67 inch refrigerated pizza prep table to be used as a sandwich prep etc.
All this was done after weeks of sitting in the trailer after I bought it with graph paper and drawing floor plans over and over and over again. Figuring out what I wanted vs what I needed vs what I could afford. It has been a slow process but you don't want to rush this stuff and when I start projects it take me a long time cause it has to be just right.
I have a bunch of pics to share but I know I won't be able till my post count is up so In the mean time I will try to set of a flickr account.
Some details about the build that I've seen come up in other threads:
I am using a 12 volt fan to pull the air for my vent hood
my vent hood is a captive aire low proximity hood that only requires 500 cfm and installs via a built in top flange into the wall studs
my hot water heater is a rv type water heater that runs off of propane
 
Ok, I think thats long enough for now.
 
Courtland
 
 

id sure like to see pics of the hood and fans. where did you get them? cost and size? you can email pics to scwhite59(@)yahoo(dot)com pls? good luck on the project and im in the same boat so Im a sponge right now

Sounds like a your well on your way. Get that post count up so we can check it out :)

Sounds like you have been working your arse off, I am here in MN as well, and have been purchasing the equipment I need to start my Burger Stand, My plan is to service out of a tent and LOAD all the equipment back in the trailer at the end of an event. I debated re-fabricating a trailer, but my maintenance skills on a scale of 1-10 are at a 1.5, meaning I might be able to change a light bulb lol. 

The hood I got directly from a Captive Aire supplier. There price was about $500 cheaper than the local sheet metal shop on the same hood. I got a 48" hood shipped with 8 inch round exhaust riser factory installed, a 7" long duct piece, 2 v clamps and manuafaturer furnished high temp sealant for $921. That was including tax and everything.

The supplier of the hood was Venpro Company out of the Minneapolis area. If you go on Captive Air's website you can do a location search to a local supplier.
 
Please excuse me but im going to be replying several time to each response in an attempt to get my count up. I can seem to find time to establish an flickr acount.

Thanks, i've followed your thread. Good job!!

mofood


Sounds like a your well on your way. Get that post count up so we can check it out :)

and the fan ( im only using 1) is a maradyne M103K. Originally I was going to elbow out the side of the trailer but then that would have put the hood lower than I wanted. I don't have any pics of the fan but once I get my post count up i'll post pics of the hood itself

Bistro a go-go


id sure like to see pics of the hood and fans. where did you get them? cost and size? you can email pics to scwhite59(@)yahoo(dot)com pls? good luck on the project and im in the same boat so Im a sponge right now

Have you already been in the business or are you just starting? I do the Little Falls Arts and Crafts Festival. Will you be getting licensed on a per event basis or will you be getting licensed by the county/ state HD? I'm curious to know how they handle a licensure with someone using a canapy. I also have a canopy and have done food and ice cream out of it on the side of my truck.
 
I'll tell ya, it takes me quite some time to accomplish much. I started my plumbing yesterday( using PEX) and didn't get much done. Well, the steam table pan I ordered for my hand sink came in yesteday so I drilled the hole for the strainer basket and glued the sink to my counter top but other than that I didn't accomplish much.

stevenfuchs


Sounds like you have been working your arse off, I am here in MN as well, and have been purchasing the equipment I need to start my Burger Stand, My plan is to service out of a tent and LOAD all the equipment back in the trailer at the end of an event. I debated re-fabricating a trailer, but my maintenance skills on a scale of 1-10 are at a 1.5, meaning I might be able to change a light bulb lol. 

what kind of equipment are you going to be using?

stevenfuchs


Sounds like you have been working your arse off, I am here in MN as well, and have been purchasing the equipment I need to start my Burger Stand, My plan is to service out of a tent and LOAD all the equipment back in the trailer at the end of an event. I debated re-fabricating a trailer, but my maintenance skills on a scale of 1-10 are at a 1.5, meaning I might be able to change a light bulb lol. 

I sent you a email with 2 pics of the hood installed. The fan is not installed yet.

Bistro a go-go


id sure like to see pics of the hood and fans. where did you get them? cost and size? you can email pics to scwhite59(@)yahoo(dot)com pls? good luck on the project and im in the same boat so Im a sponge right now

you may find it hard(no pun intended) to keep the ice cream hard with a fryer and grill etc, those will put off an extremly amount of heat in the summertime...

yes, i agree heat is going to be an issue. Thats why I am going with a insulated flip top freezer rather than a glass top dipping cabinet. I am going to cut holes on of the side of the trailer and install louvers where the condenser coil will line up inside so that it can pull outside air for cooling.

Buck & Vi's


you may find it hard(no pun intended) to keep the ice cream hard with a fryer and grill etc, those will put off an extremly amount of heat in the summertime...

I can almost post pics

got my water lines plumbed in and my drain lines done as well.

Here is what it looked like when I purchased it. It was brand new.

the first thing I did was ripped out the luan board from the middle part of the ceiling and got some 7/16" ply wood was able to fish it up in between the roof material and the metal beams. I want to be able to walk on the roof, add a/c or whatever. I don't have pics of that.


After I reinforced the roof I glued insulation to the plywood inbetween the beams and then started tearing off the luan trim pieces they used on the walls.



After I got all the ply off the walls I figured where I wanted my outlets and where my serval panel would be and then drilled holes wall studs and started running my wire. I used 12 gage romex and electrical taped the areas of wire that were in the stud. Although I did file the edges of the holes in the metal studs I wanted to be sure to go the extra step and protect the wires from being exposed.





Then I insulated the walls. In the pic directly above, the uninsulated square is where my Suburban LP water heater is.

As I started putting ply back on the walls I reinforced a section of the wall with 3/4" thickness ply wood as this is where my flange mounted vent hood is. I will only be able to go through two of the studs so thats why I wanted to add more plywood

Pulled my wire through the ply for an outlet. Should have had more hanging out but I was trying to skimp on wire.

Cut the interior hole in the plywood for serving window


 


After I reinstalled the walls I put 1/4" ply wood on the ceiling.
 
 

I have plenty more pics and will post later on this evening.
 
Thanks for looking

Don't plan on serving curbside?
 
If you do any fairs or festivals most charge by the linear foot of frontage - it would be best with that respect to have your serving window at the narrowest back of the trailer.

is that the case with most fairs and festivals in the south? (charge by ft of frontage?)

All the events I have (15) currently with my ice cream truck I will be using this trailer in it's place with a total frontage of 19 feet for both so my fees won't increase. Some events do charge per foot but the ones that do do it in increments($300 per 10 x 10 space etc. just an example) and they make it so you have to park the long way.  Pretty slick eh! Not all do though and I even have a couple where I can set up a canopy in addition to my rig for no extra charge but they get a commision on my sales so it benefits them to allow me to add on to sell faster thus bringing in more money. I also do plan on putting a serving / pickup window in the rear door so that I have the option to seel out if it and use the main one as a pickup if needed. I do have some events where a pay and pickup window is a must. 

Chicnscoop


Don't plan on serving curbside?

If you do any fairs or festivals most charge by the linear foot of frontage - it would be best with that respect to have your serving window at the narrowest back of the trailer.

 



Here is where I want to share a lesson learned the hard way so noone else make the same mistake I did. The white paneling I installed here was NRP (non fiber reinforced plastic panel) made by Parkland Plastics. Granted it said right on the label not to use in trailers but so did the FRP (fiber reinforced panel) that Menards sells so since the FRP was $25 a sheet where the NRP was only $15 I stupidly went with the cheaper product. I installed it with trowel on adhesive as well is plastic pin rivets. Everything was good for a while but the temperature changes from heating the inside to not heating the heating so on so on caused the paneling to eventually bubble out everywhere. Needless to say I had to rip it all out, wall and ceiling and it wasn't easy as alot of the panels were bonded to the wall. The proper paneling to use is the brand that Home Depot sells. It is a very rigid panel and has a very nice glossy cracked ice finish.
 

I installed the floor before I realized I had no choice but to rip out the NRP paneling


After installing the proper panel from Home Depot on the walls (Glasteel, Glasliner FRP Panel) and white melamine board on the ceiling. I cut the whole for my window and framed the opening
 

I primed the wood frame and painted it a while gloss paint before the window went in



Next came my service panel and GFI outlets. Didn't take pics of them but I have 5 sperate outlets inside and 1 outside.

After the outlet install(one shown above) I installed 1/16" aluminum angle for my wall / ceiling trim. Then came the hood. The hood is a Captive Aire BLL 2812 48".






After I got this far I realized(should have realized alot sooner I know) that I wouldn't have enough space with my ice cream freezer on the left side and a sandwich prep table on the opposite side so I ending up having to tear apart the left side of the cabinet and counter. I wanted it this big so I could stash my fresh water tank on the left side and still have room for storage.


After I took the cabinet apart and rebuilt I installed the water heater and made a bracket for my fresh water tank to sit above the water heater so I could still have the storage I wanted


getting the counter ready for my stainless




masking for neat caulk lines

caulking complete and I installed my Southco compression latches in the doors and trimmed the counter top with aluminum angle and caulked

installed hand sink
 

water lines and pump in


waste lines in

Used a 1 1/2 buld head fitting to make the through the floor penetration.

Put stainless under my hood


This is the caulk I used on my counter top to caulk the sinks and trim

I used PEX and PEX fittings for my water piping
 

a close up of the bulk head fitting
The counter and sink install, the water plumbing and waste lines as well as the stainless under the hood was all done this past week.
 
All the pics below shows what I did yesterday and today.


 


 

Here I've build a curb for the roof cap to sit on while the exhaust fan for the vent hood sits inside. The reason I built the curb is because the 10" fan I am using is a little too big for the roof cap. the curb works perfectly to give the proper clearance.
 

Hole cut out for my exaust duct.

I used a piece of the aluminum from when I cut out my window and cut a hole in it then placed it over the I cut then placed the duct piece through it. I then caulked it with 3M fire stop silicone caulking.

Painted the roof cap metallic gray (rustoleum)
 

 
placed the 3M firestop caulk in the crease of the V clamp then clamped the duct to the exhaust riser.

 
This pic shows the trim ring I got from menards for stove ducts. I made a cut in it to get it around the duct and fastened it to the ceiling after I painted it metallic grey. It came black from Menards. You can see the wiring in that pic also. I am going to install a switch on the ceiling to control the fan.

 
Fastened fan to roof and cut hole in roof cap for my conduit fitting



I know the caulk looks like crap but noone is going to see it and I'd rather it look like crap then leak.

this is what the roof cap looks like from the ground

Roof cap and in the front you can see my hot water heater cover.
 
Well. Now my post is up to date with pics from my build. Tomorrow I hope to wire in the switch for the fan, test the fan, clean my equipment since it's been sitting in my garage aka work shop and then place the equipment inside.

King do you not have to have a check valve or other form of back flow prevention on your 3 comp sink? the  3 comp drop in sink is very attractive I like it a lot.

I couldn't find that requirment anywhere and the dept of Ag didn't make me when I put sinks in my ice cream truck. I actually bought a slip on check valve but didn't install it. I could though if needed. I emailed my inspector last week with that question but haven't heard back yet.
 
I got the drop in sink from Prima Supply. Its a BK resouces. I like it too

I got my sink from prima it's not a drop in tho, I like your better is it 10x14x10 bowls or bigger?

Yeah, that's how big my bowls are too. I either had to have a free standing with drainboards or a drop in sink which has to be dropped in stainless. I also have to install NSF shelving above the sinks for air drying dishes.

That's some fine Craftsmanship going on right there. Looks terrific!

Thank you very much!!
 
I wired the fan in yesterday (3/18/12) and tested it. Works great. Started getting sick yesterday so after that I cleaned up a little and took it easy. Feel like crap today too so we'll see.
 
I'm going to add another deep cycle battery so i'll have more capacity and then Im going to get a Charge Wizard by Intellipower and keep that hooked up to the batteries so that the batteries will always be charged.

Foodbme


That's some fine Craftsmanship going on right there. Looks terrific!

Just wanted to update my post. I got sick so that took alot of the wind out of my sails so to speak. Anyway, since my last post I installed the cove base and the switch for the exhaust fan. Placed the freezer inside and secured it to the floor, placed the prep table inside and anchored it to the wall. The prep table I am using was used so I took some time cleaning that up. I placed the griddle stand and the bottom half of the griddle inside also.( had to take the plate off to change the Natural gas orifices to the supplied LP orifices) I suppose my next is to figure out the best way to anchor the griddle stand to the floor then the griddle to the stand then route and run my gas line underneath the trailer.
 


 
 

Incase anyone is wondering why in the heck I have masking tape on the walls everywhere it's because the tape represents where my wall studs are.
 
  

[link=showprofile.aspx?memid=134523]kingofcreams[/link],
 
Where did you buy the Southco compression latches? Ebay and Google searches have not produced the the ones in your picture.

I got them off of Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200705489350?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649   Thats the auction i bought them from. They had 5 total now down to 1. If thats not all you need then when you search, search for Southco C2, Southco Lever latch, southco latch.
Here another link to what I found on amazon by searching in google for just "southco latch": http://www.amazon.com/Southco-Inc-SC-42211-Adjustable-Latches/dp/B002I05QM2 
 
Hope this helps
 

reese77


[link=showprofile.aspx?memid=134523]kingofcreams[/link],

Where did you buy the Southco compression latches? Ebay and Google searches have not produced the the ones in your picture.

Perfect. Thanks.

Here is the front of the trailer where my 3/4 inch black iron pipe starts. In this photo I installed a air fitting so I could charge the line with air to check for leaks. Everything checked out ok. I also installed shut off valves upstream (before) each piece of equipment being served by this line. The valves were all off while making this check as I did not want to damage the propane regulator I installed for the griddle and for the gas valve which has a built in regulator for the water heater.

here I reduced from 3/4 inch pipe to 1/2 up to my water heater. The water heater connection is 3/8 flare so I had to reduce and convert inside also.

Heres the 3/4 pipe making the 14 ft trip down towards the rear of the trailer to feed the griddle and deep fryer. I used plumbers tape to secure the piping to the underside of the trailer.
 

Heres the opposite end where it 90 deg's over and then up into the trailer for the griddle / deep fryer
 

I installed a drip-T to catch any debris that make have gotten in the line as the result of my install. I probably should have installed it at the front of the trailer instead.
 

 

 

 
Making the flared tubing for the connection to the water heater.
 

Heres where some time was takin. Not in the actual install but in the method of attaching the equipment to the floors. First, pics are not shown but I removed the top of the griddle stand, removed the adjustable portion of the legs of the griddle and that exposed about 3/8 of an inch of threads on the legs of the griddle. The size of the griddle legs bolt is 5/8" fine thread. So with the griddle stand top removed from it's legs. I figured out where the griddle legs would match up and then I drilled 5/8 holes in the stand top. Then with griddle upside down I placed the stand top over the threads of the griddle legs and attached using 5/8 nuts. Tightened them down alot to get more threads to catch. I applied 100 silicone to the threads to act as a thread lock. After the griddle was attached firmly to the stand top I reinstalled the legs to the stand.
What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighted to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges.


I crancked very tightly to the legs at the flange. To the point the leg was indented and provided a nice cove for the set screw to be to prevent any leg movement.
 


Same thing for the griddle but using 1 1/4 inch flanges

 
I tugged on the equipment after I was done and nothing budged except for the trailer itself. We'll see how well this works. I wanted the cleanest, neatest looking safe method I could think of. I hope I found it.
 
 

Looks really good. Why didn't you mount your hood flush with the ceiling? Just curious.

low profile concession exhaust probably.. don't need to be mounted high and can actually use the top for a shelf
 

"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."
 
Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack

Dr of BBQ


"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."

Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack

No doubt! Excellent work King. Where did you find these floor flanges? Mcmaster? Looking now. :)
Propane is fun

Almost any hardware store, Lowe's, Menard's, or farm supply store carries them and they come in black iron, or galvanized. They are fairly inexpensive and are often used to make tables. Put them under a sheet of plywood and screw black iron pipe into them for table legs.

As Wild Dog said. The hood is a "low proximity hood" aka "back shelf hood". The spec'd distance from the cooking surface to the upper lip of the hood is 8" to 26" so I went like 22". Any lower and it felt like you'd be cooking in a dark cave. 

reese77


Looks really good. Why didn't you mount your hood flush with the ceiling? Just curious.

Well I appreciate the compliment greatly. I went around how to mount this stuff for a while which is why I just got it done. In my mind neat and clean is mandatory all the while keeping it safe and secure.

Dr of BBQ


"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."

Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack

I was just going to let the hood thing go but it still puzzles me. Sorry, but where height wise is the front of your hood going to be in proximate to your face when your working your equipment?
 
Is it high enough that you can work the very back of say a flattop grill without ducking under the hood?

Thanks much Mo! Yes the Dr has directed you right. These are standard plumbing fittings sold at most any hardware store. I got mine from Menards cause it's like 2 miles from my house. The 1" were $3.99 each and the 1 1/4" were like $4.49. Another option I considered were the plastic floor flanges cause there were alot thicker and the lip was bigger but it's plastic. It could crack or something.

mofood

Dr of BBQ


"What you see in the pic above and below is 1" galvanized floor flanges. I tapped a hole into the lip of each flange so I could insert a screw to tighten to the griddle stand legs. The deep fryer legs were bigger so that took 1 1/4 inch flanges."

Excellent Idea and execution, and you have now answered one of the most often asked questions on the Pro RF site. Great job.
jack

No doubt! Excellent work King. Where did you find these floor flanges? Mcmaster? Looking now. :)
Propane is fun

I hear your concerns believe me I do. The hood depth is 28" so this makes it so my equipment is underhung by 2 inches. This hood can actually under hang the equipment by 4 1/2 inches too if you felt to caved in. The top of the hood is about even with the bottom of my chin when standing. Basically you'd just reach. I mimic'd the cooking action and it didn't seem uncomfortable. If it were lower however I think it would be cause it seems you'd have to duct to see what the heck you were doing and how the heck would light get under there.

Dr of BBQ

I was just going to let the hood thing go but it still puzzles me. Sorry, but where height wise is the front of your hood going to be in proximate to your face when your working your equipment?

Is it high enough that you can work the very back of say a flattop grill without ducking under the hood?

Speaking of light under your hood they do make lights that are for that.
Here is an example
http://www.hoodfilters.co...8oqqr68CFYZoKgod0gnCpw
 
In fact I was going (and still may) to use this type of light for my step van build. So I bought a bunch of them on an Ebay auction 2 years ago. I have never opened the box. My thought at the time was neons are a pain because you have to use the expensive plastic sleeves over the bulbs and they get dirty very quickly and are a pain to clean. These on the other hand  are sealed and the outside is easy to clean.

One more thought on lighting be sure when you decide where to place your light fixtures no mater what you use you don't want it behind you or it will cause a shadow on what ever your working on. You want it above and in front.  

kingofcreams

  If it were lower however I think it would be cause it seems you'd have to duct to see what the heck you were doing and how the heck would light get under there.

 
"you'd have to duck to see what the heck you were doing" That was my concern.
jack

Good point on fixture location. I actually ordered my lights yesterday. THis is what I got: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=BARS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fwlfa2_specs.htm#photos My lighting is going to be off of 12 volt so thats why I went with these. I'll have to see how the light is dispursed. Also, I have an email into the manufacture rep who sold me the hood to see if a light can be installed in the hood. Well I could installd one but that doesn't mean I can install one ;) . I'll report back what they say on that. If so I may install one. I'd have to run wire and wiremold but should be easy enough.
 

Dr of BBQ


Speaking of light under your hood they do make lights that are for that.
Here is an example
http://www.hoodfilters.co...8oqqr68CFYZoKgod0gnCpw

In fact I was going (and still may) to use this type of light for my step van build. So I bought a bunch of them on an Ebay auction 2 years ago. I have never opened the box. My thought at the time was neons are a pain because you have to use the expensive plastic sleeves over the bulbs and they get dirty very quickly and are a pain to clean. These on the other hand  are sealed and the outside is easy to clean.

One more thought on lighting be sure when you decide where to place your light fixtures no mater what you use you don't want it behind you or it will cause a shadow on what ever your working on. You want it above and in front.  

Here is the response I got:

Courtland,
Glad to hear the install went well for you! No, lights are not available in that style of hood, the hood is just too small and hangs too close to the cooking surface. You need to add exterior lights around the hood.
Thanks,
[class="apple"]Matt Friede [class="apple"]| [class="apple"]Technical Sales | Region 75
CaptiveAire, Inc. Commercial & Industrial Ventilation 
By Venpro Company



 
 

Dr of BBQ


Speaking of light under your hood they do make lights that are for that.
Here is an example
http://www.hoodfilters.co...8oqqr68CFYZoKgod0gnCpw

In fact I was going (and still may) to use this type of light for my step van build. So I bought a bunch of them on an Ebay auction 2 years ago. I have never opened the box. My thought at the time was neons are a pain because you have to use the expensive plastic sleeves over the bulbs and they get dirty very quickly and are a pain to clean. These on the other hand  are sealed and the outside is easy to clean.

One more thought on lighting be sure when you decide where to place your light fixtures no mater what you use you don't want it behind you or it will cause a shadow on what ever your working on. You want it above and in front.  

kingofcreams
Good point on fixture location. I actually ordered my lights yesterday. THis is what I got: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=BARS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fwlfa2_specs.htm#photos My lighting is going to be off of 12 volt so thats why I went with these. I'll have to see how the light is dispursed. Also, I have an email into the manufacture rep who sold me the hood to see if a light can be installed in the hood. Well I could installd one but that doesn't mean I can install one ;) . I'll report back what they say on that. If so I may install one. I'd have to run wire and wiremold but should be easy enough.

 
See there you go just as I was about to switch my mind and go with my original lighting plan you post this and raise a bunch of questions in my mind on 12 V VS 120 Volts. LOL
If a LED in the middle of these strips goes out can it be replaced?
Or do they pretty much last and then you just replace the entire strip?
How bright are they at say 4 foot above the work area?  (you get to be the guinea pig on this I guess) with all due respect.
See just a bunch of questions and no answers LOL oh well.

Off the thread topic but I pulled out the ice cream truck last night and started empying it and I thought I'd snap some pics and share.

Well for me, I only installed a 115 volt 30 amp service with two circuits. So 12 volt lighting is the only option. I have 12 volt in my ice cream truck too and it works well. PLus I would be able to run my entire rig off the 3200 watt Suburu inverter genny I bought for the ice cream truck as well if needed. I will be the guinea pig and report back for sure. And yes, LED are installed on a circuit board for lack of better wording so you'd just replace the whole thing. $25 isn't too much and the lumens were the best I could find for this price by far.
 

Dr of BBQ

kingofcreams
Good point on fixture location. I actually ordered my lights yesterday. THis is what I got: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=BARS&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fwlfa2_specs.htm#photos My lighting is going to be off of 12 volt so thats why I went with these. I'll have to see how the light is dispursed. Also, I have an email into the manufacture rep who sold me the hood to see if a light can be installed in the hood. Well I could installd one but that doesn't mean I can install one ;) . I'll report back what they say on that. If so I may install one. I'd have to run wire and wiremold but should be easy enough.

See there you go just as I was about to switch my mind and go with my original lighting plan you post this and raise a bunch of questions in my mind on 12 V VS 120 Volts. LOL
If a LED in the middle of these strips goes out can it be replaced?
Or do they pretty much last and then you just replace the entire strip?
How bright are they at say 4 foot above the work area?  (you get to be the guinea pig on this I guess) with all due respect.
See just a bunch of questions and no answers LOL oh well.

I want to buy one or both of your ice cream cones if you want to sell them? What are they made of?
jack

awsome build. learned a lot from this build. i could not find anywhere the floor flanges. that is how i want to mount my equipment.
now i know what to look for. i went to home depot they only had one size. they will be ok for my sink. good luck to you.
now i want ice cream lol

 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Just giving an update. I installed my waste water tank and fresh water fill and drain. I did get and install the LED lights and I am pretty pleased with them. I will update later this evening if I can. Dr. the ice cream cones are made of plastic. I am missing the top on one as I lost it making a trip last year. I ordered hand dipped ones instead but two weeks after I ordered them they called and said they were out of stock. I gotta try again but i'm rushing around trying to get this build done so I can get it inspected. I got the cones from greatbigstuff.com

Thanks for the tip on Big Stuff. I wish they had a giant BBQ Sandwich to go with my giant hot dog.

Couldn't you get that tank between the beams??....That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining........

chefbuba


Couldn't you get that tank between the beams??....That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining........

 
+1  I see problems ahead with tank and plumbing. And I think your hood will need raised or it will be a pain in the back and neck to work!

you are gonna wanna re-think the straps used to hold that waste tank, it WILL NOT hold and you will be hating life... Reese & I both used a threaded rod and uni-strut to support the tank. Check out his build thread for a picture.
 
AWESOME job on the equipment flanges, I will be using these on my griddle stand, I't been moving around a bit and that is the LAST thing I want moving with my $3000 griddle on it.   MOFOOD you can get them at any Lowes & HD's in the plumbing section where the gas fittings are.

Before you buy anything to anchor your equipment to the floor or stainless steel tables check this site out:
http://www.wagnercompanie...name=article&rpid=
HEAVY BASE FLANGE WITH SET SCREW AND TWO HOLES  in Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Brass, Bronze.

But give the credit to Marco he found them and sent the link to me.
jack

No, the tank wouldnt fit between the beams after I installed my gas line. I would have had to reroute the gas line which would include obtaining a die set and threading the pipe after I cut it out.  The tank sits highter than the axle and the walls are 1/4" thick so well see how well it will hold up. As far as drainage, there is a about a 31" rise from sink to the top of the tank so water will drain even if a bit out of level.
 
I bought this tank back in december off of ebay cause it was a good deal. I would prefer to have the same style tank as my fresh water tank but there are plenty other things that I need to buy still to get this completed so I'm just making due and even with getting the other style tank, I would only gain like 2 inches or 3 inches in depth. 
 
 

chefbuba


Couldn't you get that tank between the beams??....That looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I also would have plumbed the waste directly into the tank, if your just a bit out of level on the one side, your going to have problems draining........