Hot!New Orleans - December 2013

Post
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
2014/01/08 15:16:27
We hadn't been to New Orleans in almost 10 years and it was time to get back to the city we love.  Four days and three nights in The Big Easy. We flew out of Baltimore on a Wednesday morning, taking a direct Southwest Airlines flight.  A friend gave me a few drink coupons, and though it was a little early for me, I had a taste of these.

 
 

 
Not a fan of the Dewar's but enjoyed some of the Wild Turkey.
 
We arrived in NOLa and we were ready to begin.
 
 
 
After checking into the hotel, our first stop is always Cafe Du Monde.
http://cafedumonde.com/
 

 

 

 
We walked around the French Quarter a while and heard what sounded like Louis Armstrong.  These guys put on a great show in Jackson Square.
 

 
We next headed over to Central Grocery for our favorite muffuletta.
 
http://www.centralgroceryneworleans.com/
 
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g60864-d463919-Reviews-Central_Grocery_Company-New_Orleans_Louisiana.html


 

 
We had intended to go to Acme Oyster house after Cafe Du Monde, but we arrived 2 hours later than scheduled due to medical emergency on the plane (had to return to Baltimore) and there was big line at Acme.  After shopping and sightseeing in the French Market, and purchasing Streetcar/Bus passes, we headed back to the hotel.  Of course on the way we had several sample of pralines from various shops.
 
Dinner Wednesday night was Pascal's Manale.  We had never been there on any of our trips and wanted to try the purported creators of New Oleans BBQ shrimp.  Our streetcar ride went south about 3/4 of a mile from our stop on St Charles Avenue as there was a car flipped over on the streetcar track.  At least that gave us more walking time and thus burned off more calories that would need to be replaced.
 
We had no reservation but got a table as soon as we arrived.  We started off with a shrimp and crab remoulade cocktail, which was good, but had too much remoulade sauce.  The reason we went was the BBQ shrimp.
 
http://pascalsmanale.com/
 

 
We liked them quite a bit, but the sauce wasn't what we remembered from our previous trips to other restaurants.  I had read that Pascal's Manale uses margarine instead of butter, and the sauce seemed to be separating a bit.  They were good, but not great.  The bread in the white bag was excellent Leidenheimer bread.
We walked back to the streetcar and then walked around the French Quarter some more looking for a Hubig's pie, which we couldn't find.  This was a mystery that got solved a couple of days later.
 
More to come ...
 
post edited by eruby - 2014/01/09 15:35:12
EdSails
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/08 15:33:45
Great start, ruby. Excellent pics and descriptions--I can hardly wait for the rest. I'm ready to go to the Big Easy now!
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/08 15:51:09
Eruby, how oniony is Central Market's olive salad?  I see olives, pimientos, perhaps some pepperoncinis...all things I'm OK with but I can only tolerate a small amount of raw onion.
 
Sorry to read that Pascal's shrimp doesn't quite live up to its appearance.
MilwFoodlovers
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/08 16:59:25
Brad, I just looked at the bottle I have on my shelf and as I suspected, there are no onions in the olive salad mix. Glorioso's on Brady has Muffuletta Olive Salad Mix, both regular and a "hot" (don't-for you it's too hot) in case you don't get to New Orleans soon. Tenuta's in Kenosha also has their own branded mix. Both are excellent and are by no means a compromise.
mr chips
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/08 20:28:41
Nice start. I love New Orleans
 
leethebard
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 01:05:04
This looks like fun.....got to get to New Orleans some day!!!
Pancho
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 09:10:58
Nice report! I'm heading back there sometime post jazz fest if I can swing it. My last trip I had the best "barbecued" shrimp ever at Mr. B's Bistro. I even follow their recipe for my home preparation. Easy to make, but what a fun mess to eat! Looking forward to more from your NOLA adventure.
http://www.mrbsbistro.com/recipes_shrimp.php
lleechef
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 10:25:37
I was down there one year for Jazz Fest........it was AWESOME! 
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 11:43:45
ScreamingChicken

Eruby, how oniony is Central Market's olive salad?  I see olives, pimientos, perhaps some pepperoncinis...all things I'm OK with but I can only tolerate a small amount of raw onion.

Sorry to read that Pascal's shrimp doesn't quite live up to its appearance.


MilwFoodlovers

Brad, I just looked at the bottle I have on my shelf and as I suspected, there are no onions in the olive salad mix. Glorioso's on Brady has Muffuletta Olive Salad Mix, both regular and a "hot" (don't-for you it's too hot) in case you don't get to New Orleans soon. Tenuta's in Kenosha also has their own branded mix. Both are excellent and are by no means a compromise.
As MilwFoodlovers noted, there is no onion in the olive salad.  I liked cooked onions 9the more well done the better) but cannot stand raw onions.  Central Grocery's olive salad is excellent, and I'm not a huge fan of olives.
 
Now, on to day 2.

mikeam
Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 11:45:05
New Orleans is one of my favorite cities. Thanks for sharing.
ann peeples
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 12:30:00
Brad-Mikes suggestions of both Gloriosos and Tenutas for olive salad is spot on. I think we need a Brady street tour this year! And we could walk it!
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 12:49:08
Thursday began with a streetcar ride to Camellia Grill.  They were doing work on the St Charles line, so it only ran as far as Napolean Avenue where we switched to a bus for the rest of the way.  There was no car on the tracks this time.
 

 
We love Camellia, and have gone every visit to NOLa.  Ten years ago, Marvin was our counterman.  He was full of lively banter and got everyone's order without writing down a thing.  A few month's ago, George Motz did an episode of his hamburgers show in New Orleans and one stop was the Camellia Grill.  There on the TV was Marvin!  We were hoping he would be there on our trip and weren't disappointed.
 

 
Like last trip, my wife had the Camellia special Omelet which has pretty much all breakfast meats and vegetables, along with chili (which she got on the side).  I had red beans & rice with a hot sausage link, and that link was indeed hot.  I had to chop it up and mix it in to the beans and rice.  It was delicious.
 

 

 
A couple of people were celebrating birthdays and Marvin got the whole place to sing happy birthday.  No trip would be complete without a meal (or two) at Camellia and Marvin.  They opened another location in the French Quarter but we only go to the Carrollton location, not far from Brigtsen's
 
After breakfast, we walked back toward Napolean Ave to catch the steetcar but a bus came along so we didn't have much of a walk.  After getting back to Canal Street, we walked over the Quarter to do more shopping.  We had seen an episode of John Besh's PBS show and he had a big bottle of vanilla he said came from a local pharmacy.  We never found what it was, but did find a local company called Ronald Reginald's that made a variety of vanilla and products and we were looking for the vanilla.
 

 
We walked a good bit around the French Quarter and went to many shops looking for the vanilla.  We stopped into a small Rouse's Market that didn't have the vanilla but did have the Zatarain's Creole mustard we like so we snagged a bottle.  Outside the market was a Leidenheimer truck making a delivery.  We LOVE Leidenheimer bread, and nothing anywhere near Maryland compares.
 

 

 
We didn't find the vanilla so we prepared for our trip to the Fairgrounds and the horse races. 
 
We took the Canal Steet line to the Carrolton line, but after waiting what seemd like forever, we started walking up Carrolton toward City Park and the Fairgrounds.  At Canal and Carrolton there was a shopping center that had a large Rouse's Market where finally found a bottle of the vanilla.  I've yet to try it as we have an open bottle of Trader Joe's vanilla and my wife won't let me open the NOLa vanilla until the TJs is gone.
 
We walked toward the Fairgrounds and never did see a Carrolton Street car.  We turned down Esplenade to go to the Fairgrounds and though we had been walking quite a bit, we still weren't hungry enough to stop at Luizza's by the Track.  Hopefully next trip.  I want to try their BBQ shrimp Po' Boy.
 
http://www.nola.com/sites/liuzzas/
 
We finally got to the track, which is now has a casino as well.  We found a Groupon for admission for 2, plus programs and $20 worth of concessions and that came in very handy.  We did have to walk through the casino to get to the clubhouse and thought we might contract emphysema.  The ventilation system was pretty poor. 
 
We found a concession stand and got a bowl of pretty good gumbo and several bottles of water.  The gumbo had nice chunks of chicken and sausage and there were 5 crab claws in it with a nice bite of meat on them.  We made it to the seats and prepared to lose money.
 
http://www.fairgroundsracecourse.com/
 

 

 
There were quite a few Christmas trees set up all around the clubhouse and casino.
 

 
I always marvel at how majestic the horses are.
 

 

 

 

 
Two of our many losing tickets.
 

 
A view of downtown NOLA from the clubhouse.
 

 
We headed back toward City Park and there was bus already there so we didn't have to wait for the streetcar, other than the transfer to the Canal street line to get back to downtown.
 
We walked back to the French Quarter as no trip (for me) is complete without a Krystal burger.
 

 

 
We headed back to the hotel to rest up for dinner, which would be Mandina's.  And still no Hubig's pie, but that would be resolved Friday night.
 
To be continued...
post edited by eruby - 2014/01/09 15:37:24
leethebard
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 12:53:46
Keep it up...looking great...Krystal burgers look like White Castles??? Are they?
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 12:57:39
leethebard

Keep it up...looking great...Krystal burgers look like White Castles??? Are they?
Indeed!

Sundancer7
Fire Safety Admin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 14:29:49
I have ate at the Krystal in NOLA many times.  They are great after a night of imbibing in the Quarter.
 
Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN 
TnTinCT
Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 15:08:22
I haven't explored much of New Orleans as my trips have been fairly structured business meetings. Is the public transpo system fairly easy to navigate? Your references to jumping on/off buses, etc. - how much advance knowledge would you need to navigate the city?
Foodbme
Porterhouse
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 15:22:55
EXCELLENT PICTURES!
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 15:25:09
After a short nap, we headed out for the Canal Street streetcar for the short trip to Mandina's.  Not being from the South, but being very impatient, it always surprises me that cars block the streetcar tracks and that the streetcar drivers don't just push the cars out of the way.
 
We ordered the veal parmigiana, which was excellent 10 years ago, but htis time was bit thicker and less tender.  Good, but not remarkable like last time.  We also had the broiled Drum, and that was a very good piece of fish.  We started out with a cup of the turtle soup, and the version at Mandina's, which they serve with sherry is our absolute favorite in NOLa.  We also had the turtle soup at Pascal's Manale but it was nowhere near as good as Mandina's.  I blew it with the pictures and only have an exterior shot.
 

 
Of course no trip to Mandina's would be complete without dessert at Angelo Brocato which is a short walk across Canal Street.  We've been lucky enought to have cannolis at Isgro's and Termini Brothers in Philly, and several place in New York, but the ones at Brocato are our absolute favorites.  And that they have excellent Italian cookies and pastries as well as fantastic gelato is just a bonus.  No wonder they've been doing it for more than a century.
http://angelobrocatos.com/
 

 
We had the stracciatella
 

 

 
Other than not picking any winners at the track, Thursday was a big success.
 
Friday morning started out at Mother's
 
http://mothersrestaurant.net/

Many people label this a tourist trap, but we had a good late lunch there our very first trip and wanted to try it for breakfast.  We got there before any line had formed, but there was already a big crowd at the order counter as well as eating.
 
My wife had over easy eggs and country ham with grits, and I opted for the black ham biscuit (which I read sells out pretty fast) and a side of sausage.  I though my ham would have been more like burnt ends, but it was still very good.  All the staff was friendly and efficient.  You ordered at the counter, paid,  and they brought your food out to you.   When we left, there were 10 or so people lined up outside. 
 

 

 

 

 
Per their sign, cash only at Mother's.
 

 
The early bird gets the  worm   ham biscuit.

 

Coming up next, The World War II Musem.
post edited by eruby - 2014/01/10 08:21:58
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 15:28:59
TnTinCT

I haven't explored much of New Orleans as my trips have been fairly structured business meetings. Is the public transpo system fairly easy to navigate? Your references to jumping on/off buses, etc. - how much advance knowledge would you need to navigate the city?
The streetcars are fairly easy,  there are 3 or 4 fixed routes with maps on the cars.  Kiosks on Canal Street vend 1, 3 or 5 day passes and you can also buy passes at Walgreen's.  We only rode busses that were going where the street cars went, but all the drivers were very friendly and will give you any help you need.
 
Of course being ISTJ means I do a fair amount of research before hand, but NOLa is pretty easy to get around with public transportaion IMO.
 
http://www.norta.com/

post edited by eruby - 2014/01/09 15:30:14
rumaki
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 15:32:08
I LOVE Brocato's.  I've been there every time I've gone to New Orleans, and it never disappoints. And I love the neon sign!
The last time I was there (a couple of years ago), I spotted Mandina's, but had no idea whether it was good or not.  On that occasion, I had gone to Brocato's in the mid-afternoon, for a snack, and had other dinner plans, but I'll keep it in mind in the future.
Foodbme
Porterhouse
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 19:03:09
In your condiments picture, CRYSTAL's is my all time favorite.
IMHO, Head & Shoulders better than the overhyped/highly promoted Tabasco.
I love Biscotti! I'll bet Brocato's is outstanding!
post edited by Foodbme - 2014/01/09 19:06:32
Michael Hoffman
Double-chop Porterhouse
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 19:57:59
leethebard

Keep it up...looking great...Krystal burgers look like White Castles??? Are they?

God no! They bear a resemblance, but they don't come close to the goodness and wonder of White Castles, six of which I had for lunch today.
Caveat: Krystal Burgers made me quite sick once.
ann peeples
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 21:26:24
Great report, eruby!
CCinNJ
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/09 23:03:51
Wild Turkey 101...Beignets...horse racing & a neon sign that reads Cassata!

Fun stuff eruby & beautiful photos!

Cassatta is old-school Sicilian quite delicious & you don't see it too often.

This is a Cassatina (individual Cassata)...





Cassata is a symbol of luck. It coulda helped a little @ the track.
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 08:19:46
Foodbme

In your condiments picture, CRYSTAL's is my all time favorite.
IMHO, Head & Shoulders better than the overhyped/highly promoted Tabasco.
I love Biscotti! I'll bet Brocato's is outstanding!
We don't like Tabasco either.  Ten years ago we discovered LA Gold at Parkway Bakery where we went for Po' Boys. It's like Crystal mixed with a bit of Tabasco.  We bought a few bottles in NOLa and have been mail ordering ever since as we don't see it in Maryland, though stores do have Bruce Foods yams.
 
http://www.lagoldhotsauce.com/?utm_source=brucefoods.com&utm_medium=brand-page&utm_campaign=general
 

 
This trip we found Cajun Power Garlic Sauce while shopping for pralines at the New Orleans School of Cooking.  We bought a bottle and when we tried it at home, we loved it.  We already mail orderd a good supply.
 
http://www.cajunpowersauce.com/
 
 
 

Michael Hoffman

leethebard
Keep it up...looking great...Krystal burgers look like White Castles??? Are they?

God no! They bear a resemblance, but they don't come close to the goodness and wonder of White Castles, six of which I had for lunch today.
Caveat: Krystal Burgers made me quite sick once.

I'd agree that White Castle is better than Krystal, but my favorite is the  erstwhile Little Tavern.

CCinNJ
 
Wild Turkey 101...Beignets...horse racing & a neon sign that reads Cassata!

Fun stuff eruby & beautiful photos!

Cassatta is old-school Sicilian quite delicious & you don't see it too often.

This is a Cassatina (individual Cassata)...





Cassata is a symbol of luck. It coulda helped a little @ the track.
I'd have prefered the 80 proof Wild Turkey, esp. at 11 in the morning.
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 08:20:13
eruby

My wife had over easy eggs and country ham with grits, and I opted for the black ham biscuit (which I read sells out pretty fast) and a side of sausage.
And a fine-looking biscuit it was!  I can understand why it sells fast.
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 09:00:01
With full bellies we headed off to the World War II Museum, a nice little walk up Magazine Street.  A few friends had been there and we knew we were going to have an wonderful experience.
 
http://www.nationalww2museum.org/
 

 
We got there not long after it opened and purchased admissions, as well as Tickets for the movie Beyond All Boundaries
 
http://www.nationalww2museum.org/visit/beyond-all-boundaries.html
 
We had tickets for the Noon showing so we signed up for a docent's tour of the exhibit on the war in the Pacific Theater at the welcome desk.
 

 
There was another table with a couple of paratroopers from Utah Beach, and I thanked them for their service which they shrugged off. We spoke briefly, but then there must have been a lot of dust there as tears started forming in my eyes.
 
Ws started the tour of the Pacific Theater.
 

 

 

 
MacArthur at the peace treaty signing
 

 
There was a min-exhibit on the propaganda from both sides.
 

 

 

 

 

 
A very brutal war.
 

 
After the tour, we walked across the street to another building (the Museum in still expending) where Beyond All Boundaries was showing.  This was an excellent Hollywood type production.
 
Beyond All Boundaries, showing exclusively in The National WWII Museum’s Solomon Victory Theater, is a 4D journey through the war that changed the world. Narrated by executive producer Tom Hanks, Beyond All Boundaries features dazzling effects, CGI animation, multi-layered environments and first-person accounts from the trenches to the Home Front read by Brad Pitt, Tobey Maguire, Gary Sinise, Patricia Clarkson, Wendell Pierce and more.
Once again, the theater must have been dusty.  I cannot recommend this movie, or museum highly enough.
 
After the show, we went to yet another building (huge!) that housed several planes and vehicles and artifacts.  There was also a serchable computerized exhibit on all the WW II Medal of Honor Winners. 
 

 

 

 

 
My Gal Sal
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/My_Gal_Sal_(aircraft)
 

 

 
We spent 5 1/2 hours in the complex and we could probably spend 5 days without seeing it all.  It really was an incredible experience.
 
We headed back to the hotel for a little rest.
 
http://www.omnihotels.com/FindAHotel/NewOrleansRoyalCrescent.aspx
 
More to come.
 
 
post edited by eruby - 2014/01/10 09:02:11
EdSails
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 09:55:06
What an amazing museum, I am tempted to wear my father's WW2 USAAF trench coat when I go. It seems like you have really had a great time, ruby. glad that you enjoyed it. Excellent report!
Big Frank
Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 09:59:03
My wife and I visited the WWII Museum last October. I agree, it is a wonderful experience.
leethebard
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 10:45:33
That museum is some place...I enjoy studying about WW2. That movie presentation would be a highlight!!
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 10:50:59
eruby

With full bellies we headed off to the World War II Museum, a nice little walk up Magazine Street.
 
It strikes me as unusual that a 50-state flag would be on display instead of one from 1941-45.  By any chance did you ask about it?
mr chips
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 11:38:34
Great photos and the history buff in me would love the 
museum. I know that Eisenhower biographer Stephen Ambrose was one of the folks behind the creation of the museum and I would love to visit there ,
EdSails
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 11:51:28
eruby


This trip we found Cajun Power Garlic Sauce while shopping for pralines at the New Orleans School of Cooking.  We bought a bottle and when we tried it at home, we loved it.  We already mail orderd a good supply.

http://www.cajunpowersauce.com/


 



A few years ago when I was in Fairhope, Alabama, I found the Cajun Power Etouffee Sauce. made a Shrimp Étouffée that was easy and superb. It was excellent! Cajun Power really makes some good products. 
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 13:05:00
ScreamingChicken

eruby

With full bellies we headed off to the World War II Museum, a nice little walk up Magazine Street. 
 
It strikes me as unusual that a 50-state flag would be on display instead of one from 1941-45.  By any chance did you ask about it?
I did ask about that and the ladies had no idea.  Our tour guide for the Pacific Theater exhibit seemed to think it was because there were many flags of that era on display throughout the museum.

eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 13:57:00
Upon returning from the museum, we had a nice surprise in our room.  I don't know if it was because we brought cookies for the staff from Brocato's,  or that I had spoken to the hotel manager a few weeks earlier saying I wanted things to be 'just so' for my wife on this 10 year return trip (we've always stayed at the Omin Royal Crescent, just outside the Quarter) and he thought it was a milestone for us, but we didn't question, just enjoyed.
 

 
We set out for a stroll before dinner, looking for a snack so's not to ruin our meal.  I was hoping for a Lucky Dog, it's another small bite I like to have in NOLa, like a Krystal Burger, but unfortunately, this guy was just heading to his spot to set up.
 

 
We walked down to the river and headed toward the French Market.  Out on the river was the dinner boat, The Natchez.  A couple we met while waiting for our table at Mandina's spoke highly of the ship, perhaps we'll do it on a future trip.
 

 
We ended up back at Cafe Du Monde for more beignets.  Not my ideal snack, but I needed something for the sparkling wine.
 

 
We got back to the hotel to change for dinner and headed over to Galatoire's, which is a favorite of ours.  We find the food excellent, but no pretention at all.
 
http://www.galatoires.com/home
 
I started with their (supposedly) famous Sazerac and my wife had a glass of a nice domestric sparkling wine.  We had the oysters en brochette for an appetizer, which is bacony fried oyster dish we had last trip.  It was just as good as ever.  Of course there was lot's of Leidenheimer bread.
 

 
My wife had the  bouillabaisse which was good, but the fish had too many bones for her taste.  The menu only mentioned shellfish, but I guess everyone (but us) knows  bouillabaisse has fish in it.  I had the grilled Pompano. Excellent.   Unfortunately, soft-shell crab was not in season.  We had this one trip there and it was the best I ever had.  The only other picture that turned out was this.
 

 
For dessert, we had black bottom pecan pie and it was very good, but sweet, so we only finished about half.  Besides, I was still on the hunt for a Hubig's pie.  Galatoire was good enough for Blanche Duboise, and it's good enough for me.
 
We walked up  Carondelet Street (which is Bourbon street on the other side of Canal Street) and went into a convenience store/food market.  After once again not finding a Hubig's pie, I finally asked about it.  I was told they had a huge fire in 2012.   I looked up the website when we got home and saw they are asking for donations to rebuild.
 
http://hubigs.com/
 
https://www.harrahsneworleans.com/casino.html
 
We went back to the hotel to change for a run over to Harrah's Casino.   I don't know if Harrah's was just much newer 10 years ago, or I'm more of a curmudgeon now, but it seemed a lot less friendly than our last trip there.  We made about $2.63 at the slots and that was good enough for us.
 

 
I kind of feared this guy.
 

 
Other than no Lucky Dog or Hubig's pie, Friday was very good day in New Orleans.
 
Still to come, our last day in New Orleans...
post edited by eruby - 2014/02/07 09:21:35
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 15:13:38
Are there multiple Lucky Dog carts throughout the city?
love2bake
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 19:03:19
Awwww, too bad...  Beignets at Cafe du Monde are pretty close to my ideal snack!!
 
Enjoying your report!!
pnwchef
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/10 20:01:55
This report is making me want to go back down to Nola. This is a city thats all about food. It looks like you both had a great time............pnwc
fattybomatty
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/11 12:37:26
I am going to new orleans on Thursday and I"m so excited.  I plan on gaining 20lbs in 4 days! haha.  Did you by any chance do any of the ghost tours?  My friend wants to do one
BelleReve
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/11 14:16:50
fatty - Couple things I'd suggest - Try lunch at Antoine's the oldest restaurant in NOLA and a great bargain for lunch  Mon-Sat, 3-courses  - soup or salad, entree, and dessert for $20.14 and 10 cent martinis.  They're in the same fine-dining category as Galatoire's and Anrnaud's but they have a relaxed and casual dress code for lunch.  Order a Pommes Souffle for the table, which is a french fried potato cut extra thin, fried twice under high heat.  Light and airy, they are served with bernaise sauce for dipping.
 
Spice and Tea Exchange 521 St Louis - I'd made Alton Brown's lentil soup a few weeks prior, and it was here I was able find the spice "paradise" that I'd never heard of before.  It's in the middle of the block nestled between Johnny's Po Boys and the Napoleon House.
 
The Kitchen Witch 631 Toulouse St  - a cool place - a used cookbook store and a few decorative things for sale
 
BBQ Shrimp - given a choice between Pascal's and Mr. B's, I choose Mr. B's and you can get their recipe off their web site.  Besides, Mr. B's has gumbo ya ya which is definitely not to miss.
 
   
 
fattybomatty
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/12 13:03:28
thanks belle reve
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/13 08:49:29
Sorry for the delay in finishing up thisreport.  Sometimes, life gets in the way of fun and eating.
 
ScreamingChicken, I've seen at least 3 Lucky Dog Carts in the French Quarter, but I don't know if they are all around the city. 
 
http://www.luckydogs.us/locations.cfm
 
fattybomatty, we did take a ghost tour, or I guess it was a cemetery tour many years ago.  We actually had a private tour from Bloody Mary.  We met her up by the Carrollton and Canal streetcars after Po' Boys at Parkway Bakery, where she took us farther from the quarter to a cemetery to which she had a key.  Very interesting and a little spooky, but fun.
 
A couple of years later, we were watching a program about haunted cities, and when they got to New Orleans, there was Bloody Mary!
 
http://www.bloodymarystours.com/biography.html
 

 
And now for our last day....
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/13 09:34:05
Saturday morning we started packing for the plane ride home.  We wanted a little something to eat before a BBQ shrimp lunch at Deanies in the Quarter, but surprisingly, we didn't want Cafe Du Monde beignets for a third time. Crazy, right?  
 
We wen't into the Walgreen's on Decater, near Canal and asked the cashier if there were any bakeries nearby.  She didn't know anything except Cafe Du Monde, but a nice gentleman recommended a place a few blocks past Central Grocery toward the French Market, and then up Ursulines Street called "croissant someting or other" We were a bit leery as on one trip, we asked about a good ice cream shop and were told Baskin-Robbins was quite good (not that it's bad).
 
We walked up Decatur and turned left on Ursulines and a block and a half up, we saw a line of people.  We knew that had to be it. 
 
Croissant D'Or Patisserie was filled with mostly locals and had fresh baked croissants, pastries, sandwiches and quiches.  We love going to local places and this was spot-on.  We had an almond croissant and a meringue.  Both delicious, though the almond croissant was little heavy from butter.  A table next to us had a plain one and it looked very light.  The meringue was so light and airy I thought it might float away.  My wife had a coffee which she said was very good but not as good as Cafe Du Monde (how could it be?)  I had my usual diet soda.
 
The picture didn't come out, but on the tile sidewalk outside was marked 'Ladies Entrance' and there was also a marker for Angelo Brocato's, so we presumed this was an original location.
 
It was a perfect start before setting out for BBQ shrimp.
 
http://www.croissantdornola.com/
 

 
I was able to do a screen capture of the sidewalk in front of the shop showing Angelo Brocato.  I couldn't find the 'Ladies Entrance'.
 

 
We walked up Ursulines as we'd never seen that part of the Quarter.  It was mostly residential with the classic New Orleans look.  We walked back up Bourbon Street to get BBQ shrimp at Deanie's.  Our first trip to NOLa we were wanting the shrimp as we'd not had it ever.  We went to Mr B's, but for some reason, they weren't open and were quite sour to us.  We asked a local and they recommended Deanie's. We loved the Deanie's BBQ shrimp, and the salted potatoes they put on the table instead of bread.  For years, we shunned Mr B's, even though we read review after review, and saw award after award.
 
This trip, as we got to Deanie's, a couple came out and said they were having a private party and wouldn't open until 11:30.  It was a little after 11, so we thought we'd walk around the block.  Much of the Quarter was decorated for Christmas and the Royal Sonesta Hotel a, giant teddy bear on it's facade.
 

 
We got back to Deanie's a bit before 11:30 and another couple came out and said they wouldn't open until noon.  We went in and got the same story.  I asked why there was no sign on the door and got a look as though I had leprosy.
 
We didn't know what to do so we headed to Mr. B's. They didn't open until 11:30, but there was a small group of ladies heading in the door so in we went.  There must have been 10 tables already seated.  No idea why the early seating.
 
The waiter came, and we ordered BelleReve's afore mentioned gumbo ya ya.  This was probably the best gumbo we have ever had.  The waiter even brought two bowls and served us the split portion with a bit of a flourish.  Very kind of him.  Not sure why the picture failed, but here is a photo and recipe from Mr. B's website.
 
http://www.mrbsbistro.com/recipes_gumbo.php
 

 
We then ordered the BBQ shrimp.  Grand slam home run!!  This version was every bit as good as we remembered from Deanie's and probably much better.  The sauce was clearly rich with lots of butter, and a nice bite of Worcester sauce as well.  We now knew why they win 'best of' awards year after year.
 
The famous Leidenheimer bread.
 

 
Yes, the shrimp IS that good.
 

 

 
We were finishing up the bread from the bag and the waiter asked if we wanted more bread.  My wife said no. I said   Had she gone to restroom, I might very well have used a spoon on that sauce.
 
We headed back to the hotel to meet our cab for the airport, very satisfied with an excellent New Orleans vacation!!!!.
post edited by eruby - 2014/01/13 13:15:14
BelleReve
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/14 17:41:46
eruby - thanks for a wonderful report and pictures, you sure did hit all the great restaurants.  Maybe I saw you and didn't know - the Friday after Christmas I had a niece and her daughter visiting from Baton Rouge along with a sister-in-law who's local, and the four of us had a ladies day out in the French Quarter and lunch.  It was a lot of fun we vowed to make a yearly tradition of it.
 
 
mr chips
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/14 18:34:22
I love New Orleans .Food, history and culture. What else do ya need.? Great report eruby
post edited by mr chips - 2014/02/01 08:56:36
will_work_4_bbq
Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/14 20:10:25
Fantastic report!  Makes me want to just hop on down to New Orleans!
Root-Beer Man
Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/14 20:27:07
Thanks for the wonderful report. Haven't been back to NOLA since year before last, and your report makes me want to get back there soonest. 
drummagick
Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/18 16:17:45
That shrimp looks wonderful!  I looked at their recipe and it's like my recipe for Chex Mix.  LOTS of worcestershire sauce!!  Mmm, mom's Chex Mix flavored shrimp.  lol
scrumptiouschef
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/19 13:13:03
It will break your heart but here's a photo of Hubig's Pies consumed in flames http://www.scrumptiousche...s-Burned-To-The-Ground
mbrookes
Double Chili Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/01/31 22:04:35
I haven't seen anyone else mention this, but for a really good, plain, reasonable breakfast(bacon, sausage, eggs, grits, toast, etc.) we love Magnolia Grill. It is right across from the French Market on Decatur. They also have the best bloody Mary in all of New Orleans IMO.
mr chips
Filet Mignon
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/02/01 08:54:36
Whae a marvelius report of a marvelous city. I have enjoyed the photos and commentary so much.
Pancho
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/02/01 09:15:19
Great report! Coincidentally, we stayed at a guest house on Ursalines that was two doors down from Croissant d'Or. Needless to say we were frequent visitors. Also, glad you liked Mr. B's for the bbq shrimp...I think it's the best in town.
leethebard
Sirloin
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/02/01 09:45:41
I really enjoyed your trip.  Never been to Nola, but God, it looks like a must. Hopefully, someday. Meanwhile,I live it through you! Thanks.
eruby
Double Cheeseburger
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/02/06 08:50:54
Thanks for the kind words leethebard.  I often feel I've visited a city due to others' trip reports and am glad I could return the favor.
 
Croissant d'Or was truly a great find for us Pancho.  I'm only sorry it took us so long to finally try Mr. B's, which I agree is "the best in the city".
 
Thanks mr chips!
 
We will keep Magnolia Grill in mind for our next visit mbrookes. Thanks for the recommendation.
post edited by eruby - 2014/02/06 09:48:00
buffetbuster
Porterhouse
Re:New Orleans - December 2013 2014/02/08 14:16:17
A little late to this party, but what an excellent trip report!  Loved the photos and the food choices.  And it especially brought back fond memories of Mandina's turtle soup and Mother's black ham, among others.  Thanks so much eruby for taking the time to write this up!