Minnesota Northern Exposure - Pics

Last weekend we went "up nort to da lake". Actually Wisconsonites go "up north". Minnesotans go "up to the lake", no name, just to the lake, or any one of 15,000 actual or 10,000 license plate count. In this instance it was Bear Head Lake in Bear Head State Park near Ely, Minnesota and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. So the ritual goes like this...

First you get up early to beat the crowd. So about halfway up to Duluth, the springboard to the North Shore or the BWCA, you need coffee. Hinckley is that halfway spot and Tobies is the place...



Tobies is a restaurant and a bakery and their trademark is the sticky roll. In this instance though we did not need it we ordered a caramel pecan roll...



Then I finished with a croissant, cream sauce and scrambled eggs with ham...



That was enough to last the day. We arrived at the park and set up camp expecting no-seeums, black flies and mosquitos, so we put up a screen room. Surprisingly and for June they were not a problem and we sat outside around the fire pit.



Supper was simple. We grilled corn on the cob in the husks inside aluminum foil and a couple of rubbed chicken breast over a birch wood fire along with micro-waved in our camper van baked beans - a combination of traditional and decadent modern in the woods.



The next day was a long walk in the woods in the morning for about three hours and then topped in the afternoon canoeing about the lake pretending we were in the Boundary Waters but knowing we would have a comfy camper van bed waiting for us. While walking in the woods we came upon the Lion King of all shelf mushrooms high up in a tree...



That night's supper was a repeat with the substitution of hamburgers for the chicken. The next morning we broke camp early, not to beat the crowd this time, but to drive into Ely and find a good breakfast. By chance, and the first place we spotted was the Chocolate Moose...



The Chocolate Moose was a cozy north woods log structure adjacent to one of the canoe outfitters. The coffee was outstanding. The orange juice tasted fresh squeezed. The breakfasts were also very good. Nancy had the Huevo Rancheros with corn bread and I had the Northern Scrambler. Note the nice touch on the toast.



After breakfast we explored a bit. We staked out the Fall Lake campground east of Ely for a future foray and then went to the end of the road to Lake One to watch canoeist launch and come in from the Boundary Waters. This picture is of a Boy Scout troop from Kearny, Nebraska heading out for a 5 day trip.



We explored around Ely some more and then headed down Highway 1 to the North Shore of Lake Superior then down Highway 61 heading toward home. Out of tradition we stopped at Betty's Pies outside of Two Harbors, Minnesota...



Betty's Pies is not the original place or the original owner but it carries on the tradition. But first, before the pie, I had a fried walleye sandwich on a wild rice hoagie bun. It was one of the biggest walleye sandwiches I've had and it was delicious.



Now for the pies. Nancy had the straight blueberry but I went for the Great Lakes Crunch made of apple, raspberry, blueberry, strawberry and rhubarb with vanilla ice cream of course.



After that it was a straight drive home without stopping at Tobies.

MMMMM, love a good blueberry pie! Great report Davydd. The food looked wonderful, what kind of toast was that? Looks like cranberry?

Nice job on the pis, of course!

DD

Great report!!!

I had to respond to say that the croissant, cream sauce and scrambled eggs with ham looks fabulous!!! I have not seen anything like it in any place I've ever been, but would love to try it!!

And the Chocolate Moose food looked great as well. The toast hearts are something I will try, when I get the right bread.

That was a rotten thing to post. I happen to love the entire BWCA area, and especially Ely and its environs. You have made my heart hurt with longing.

Of course, I'm glad you were there and had such a wonderful time.

I hate you.

The toast was indeed a cranberry toast.

I forgot to mention we also toured the Dorothy Molter Museum. Dorothy Molter was the last person residing inside the BWCA. She moved there in 1934. In 1964 the government moved everyone out with the exception of Dorothy and a Bennie Ambrose. Bennie died in 1982 and Dorothy in 1986. Dorothy lived on Pine Island in Knife Lake, a five portage 18 mile trip from the nearest road. She was know as the Rootbeer Lady in the BWCA. She homemade rootbeer on the island and served the canoers who stopped. They moved all the log buildings from the island and set them up in Ely to recreate the site.

We enjoyed a rootbeer there made with her original recipe. It was definitely different than the commercial variety that is common in that it was not as sweet and had a strong flavor.

Thanks for the photos Davydd, I canoed the BWCA as a teenager several times and spent 15 years as a yearly traveler to Grand Marais and vincinity. I love the area but not loving the changes to 61 and some of the rerouting. BTW, if you ever noticed the home high on the cliff outside of Two Harbors on 61, that's Jumerhof and we had the privilege of spending some time there some years ago, the view of the Lake from there is awesome.

Davydd-
Really nice report! I was up that way for the first time just a few months ago. Considering the signs on the highway, I was curious about Tobie's and that is a fine looking caramel pecan roll.

One disappointment in my trip was that I did not like Betty's Pies at all. I ordered the pasty and the cheese curds, two things I normally like, but they were awful. Even the pies were just okay. If I am back in the area, I will go for the fried walleye, instead.

We race in Brainerd, MN and I have traveled to Duluth and Ely many times as a side trip. I truly enjoy the area and what I enjoy the most is the walleye.

Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN

Nice report, fun seeing the photos. I have good friend that lives on Garden Lake in Ely. I go up several times a year and stay at The Blue Heron B&B on Fall Lake. I've always looked at that Tobies when I drive by, I'll have to stop in next time.

quote:

Originally posted by kland01s

Thanks for the photos Davydd, I canoed the BWCA as a teenager several times and spent 15 years as a yearly traveler to Grand Marais and vincinity. I love the area but not loving the changes to 61 and some of the rerouting. BTW, if you ever noticed the home high on the cliff outside of Two Harbors on 61, that's Jumerhof and we had the privilege of spending some time there some years ago, the view of the Lake from there is awesome.

The area just north of Two Harbors is indeed nice. The area between the two tunnels is mostly a private association named after the Encampment River. Several years ago friends allowed us to stay at their home on Lake Superior there for a week's vacation. Since the area was private it hadn't been heavily picked over and we came back with bags of agates thanks to our three little rockhound children at the time.

quote:

Originally posted by buffetbuster

Davydd-
Really nice report! I was up that way for the first time just a few months ago. Considering the signs on the highway, I was curious about Tobie's and that is a fine looking caramel pecan roll.

One disappointment in my trip was that I did not like Betty's Pies at all. I ordered the pasty and the cheese curds, two things I normally like, but they were awful. Even the pies were just okay. If I am back in the area, I will go for the fried walleye, instead.

A pasty in Minnesota is not the same as the ones you will find in abundance in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Pasties are not a Minnesota thing at all. The only other place I had a pasty equal to the UP's was in Dolgellau, Wales. We bought them to take with us on our hike up Cadir Idris Mountain.

Leave the cheese curds to the cheeseheads in Wisconsin. They do it better.

quote:

Originally posted by soozycue520

Great report!!!

I had to respond to say that the croissant, cream sauce and scrambled eggs with ham looks fabulous!!! I have not seen anything like it in any place I've ever been, but would love to try it!!

And the Chocolate Moose food looked great as well. The toast hearts are something I will try, when I get the right bread.

I have to agree with soozycue520 on that croissant dish. It looks delicious!

Great report, great photos. That is one of the National Patks I have not visited Hope to get there someday.

The Boundary Waters Canoe Area is not a National Park but a strictly protected wilderness area where no commercial activity or motors of any kind are allowed--motor boats, snowmobiles, chain saws, seaplanes, etc. Access is controlled by permit to limit the numbers that can be allowed in the area at any time and is limited to canoes. Kayaks can go in as well but they are not as practical for the many portages you have to make between lakes. You have to take out what you bring in. Campgrounds are limited to 9 people maximum overnight. That large Boy Scout troop I showed will have to split up out in the wilderness. Canada's Quetico Provincial Park is the equivalent and adjacent to the BWCA. The Superior National Forest where logging activity does take place further buffers the area in Minnesota. There is a National Park in Minnesota just west of the BWCA and that is Voyageurs National Park, a very under used park.

Great pics and great report! I was enjoying your pics of breakfast and the roll, the pies ( I'm neither a breakfast person nor a sweets person).....but THEN I saw that walleye sandwich and I nearly jumped through my computer screen!!!! Wowee! Looks FABULOUS!

The Northern Exposure tour continues tomorrow. We will get up early and head up to hopefully Temperance River State Park for a two night camping trip. It is the only state park of the seven on the North Shore with electrical hookups. An electrical hookup is nice but not mandatory for us. The park is on the shore of Lake Superior and like a lot of parks on the North Shore a raging river with falls comes down from the forest and hills above the lake. Also the parks are connected to a hiking trail that follows most of the North Shore. We hope to make it in to Grand Marais for dinner at least one night and maybe a breakfast or lunch or two in the area.

One place we probably will not go to is a place we have stayed in all four seasons several times. Not this trip but maybe again in the future. But I will leave you with this picture of one of the most interesting dining rooms you will find anywhere. The Naniboujou Lodge 15 miles up the highway from Grand Marais.

Thanks for the picture of Naniboujou!! We love going there! The dining room is painted in a Cree Indian design and I am of Cree decent so I just geta kick out of it. There is nothing more peaceful than sitting along the shore here and listening to Superior's waves crashing in. Have a great trip!

D..
I swear, when I saw the pic's of those shelf mushrooms, at first I thought, "Why is he hanging his BPT's in the tree?"....
I laughed so hard at myself!

That Walleye sandwich and Midwestern berry pie makes me want to take a vacation to Northern Mn. Also I have used Birch to cook meat with and there are suble flavor varioatons between White, Silver and Black. All make food taste great, but my favorite is Silver Birch coals. In New England I also used a lot of Maple which is also good.

Thank you for those great pictures.

Davydd-
Thanks for posting the photo of the Naniboujou Lodge. I have an art deco book with all kinds of photos of the place. This is one of the places in the country I most want to visit.

We just got back after two nights. The first was on the shore of Lake Superior and the second night was at the Trails End Campground at the end of the Gunflint Trail. This trip was more spectacular than the previous for scenery and road food and will be served up soon.

Nice pics there Davydd.. Looks like good times and good eats... Craving pie for some reason now...

Dayvdd, what a great review! The pictures bring back wonderful memories. I'm an "up norther" who's been paddling to the BWCA since 1959. As a Boy Scout and Sea Explorer, we'd canoe out of Ely using Bill Rom's or Canadian Waters. We used to drink the water right from the lakes without any purification. You probably can't do that now. The first portages at Moose Lake and Candy Lake were a pain hauling those old aluminum Grummans and full packs. One year, we took a flat back canoe with a small gas motor and paddled to Cashapewee. The last few years, we've taken our 22 foot, fiberglass, tandem Current Designs Libra XT kayak, stayed in Lutsen at the Bluefin, and paddled 2 inland lakes a day, off Gunflint Trail Road, or the lakes along the road to Ely. The Chocolate Moose is always a favorite lunch stop when in Ely. They even have a kayak store in town. Sounds like you had a great trip. In the past, advanced application was required to secure a camp sight along the Gunflint Trail Road. I'm sure it's the same today. I'd give my first born for that fresh walleye sandwich.


Once we purchased this kayak, our days of canoeing came to an abrupt end.

CSD

To continue our Minnesota Northern Exposure road food and camping tour we got up Monday morning packed and ready to go in our camper van. We headed out after the rush hour traffic this day so the traditional morning breakfast midway to Duluth to beat the vacation rush up north was out and unnecessary as I will point out in a moment. Instead we took the opportunity to arrive in Duluth at lunch time and took in the Fitger's Brewery. Fitger's was once a commercial brewery. The building now houses a hotel, several shops along with the old brew house museum. The restaurant is a brew pub. I had the tuna steak sandwich along with a Northern Waters Smoked Lager and Nancy had the Smoked Lake Trout Wrap with an Apricot Wheat beer.



We traveled on up Highway 61 the North Shore Scenic Route and stopped at the Temperance River State Park campground on the shore of Lake Superior. Typical of the state parks and waysides on the North Shore they are generally centered on a river with falls coming down the steep hillsides on the North Shore. This is typical.



That evening we drove on up to Grand Marais for dinner. We dined at the Angry Trout Cafe, right on the harbor, one of our favorite stops. The Angry Trout Cafe is big on organic foods and sustainability. They make every effort to conserve, buy locally and buy organic. Fish would normally be my logical choice but to my surprise I discovered they had a grilled pork tenderloin sandwich on the menu. I could not resist.



Later that night back at the campsite we had our planned ceremony--the retirement burn. That is the reason we can now vacation during the week and not battle the North Shore horde on the weekends. I worked at the Target Corporation headquarters in Minneapolis where business casual with tie or sport coat was the rule. The other option sans tie, suit or sport coat was to wear the store uniform of khaki trousers and red shirt. Thus symbolically no more red shirts or ties.



The next morning we resumed our tour and drove back up to Grand Marais for breakfast prior to heading up the Gunflint Trail. We tried the Wild Onion Cafe this time. One menu item stood out and we both ordered it--The Wild One consisting of homemade venison sausage, apple wood smoked bacon, wild rice, crimini mushrooms, roasted red bell peppers & Swiss cheese scrambled with fresh eggs served with fruit & toast. You can't beat this...



We did our obligatory poking around the shops in Grand Marais and lamented we only had so many chow stops to try everything. There will be other trips. We then drove 60 miles up the Gunflint Trail all the way to the end that terminates into the National Forest Service's Trails End Campground. On the weekend you would need a reservation for one of the 32 sites. During the week we had our pick and chose site 13 that was fairly isolated and overlooked the Sea Gull River outlet flowing into Gull Lake in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area. It was also a singed site on the edge of the Ham Lake fire that burned last May. There is a beauty in nature and forest rebirth after a fire.







For dinner we walked up to the Trails End Cafe. What else would I have but a walleye sandwich? This was the real thing in the heart of the BWCA canoe launch area.



We normally take our kayaks to the North Shore and Gunflint Trail area but we have not figured out a solution putting them on top of a nine foot high van. We are thinking about buying folding or inflating kayaks to make our trips more fun. Hiking it would have to be on this trip. We managed to get in about four miles each day.

For breakfast we cooked over the campfire ring. I cooked the Johnsonville brats and nancy made pancakes on the Coleman stove. My brats and to my relief no one rushed to us like in the Johnsonville brat TV commercials.



We broke camp and headed back down the trail and stopped at the Magnetic Rock Hiking Trail, part of the Border Route Hiking Trail that skirts through the BWCA for landlubbers. At the Magnetic Rock your compass goes haywire and becomes useless. As you can see the fire did some serious damage. We first hiked this trail about 15 years ago. Back then it was a dense forest and you could not see Magnetic Rock until you practically walked into it. We hiked it again after the 1999 straight wind blow down. It was still green and forested but less dense. This time it was burned completely but you can see after only two months the beginning of the reforestation.







So after two night we headed back to the Twin Cities. This time we sought out the competition to Betty's Pies on the North Shore. Our destination was the Rustic Inn Cafe in Danger Castle. Nancy had a Po Boy version of a walleye sandwich...



Wow! and to my surprise and totally unexpected the Rustic Inn Cafe had a traditional fried breaded pork tenderloin sandwich. I never expected to find one on the North Shore or anywhere beyond the farm belt in Minnesota. It was also very good.



We can't end our journey without pie. Nancy had the Blueberry Crunch and I had the Strawberry Rhubarb. And that's the end our our journey.

Great lookin food, scenery and your campspot appeared excellent. I enjoyed the pic of the river.

The is postive and negative things about fire. It destroys life and creates life. New plants and new trees thrive in the new cleared area and the newly cleaned land is now more fertile. We hate fire but in some ways it is essential.

I always enjoy the North Shore and the Boundry Water area.

Paul E. Smith
Knoxville, TN

Great report! It's been 3 years since we've been back to the North Shore, we used to go yearly in late September.

Awww jeez. I miss that place. Looks like y'all had a great trip Davydd.

Davydd,

Great report..

One of these days I'd like to head up to the "North woods"

Beautiful country and a great report. Back in 59-60 I spent a year across the border in Sioux Lookout, gets a little cool in the winter.

I love that type of country.
I cherish the 2 years that I spent in the NY Adirondacks.
It was simply gorgeous, and looks very similar to your photos.
I felt so at peace with myself, and so close to nature.
It is truely amazing when you get into the "real" country and really see what the beauty there is here in America, and love it
I didnt want to leave there.
(I see you finally took your BPT off that tree and put them where they belonged.. On a bun!)