I had the cochon de lait bbq at NOLA Jazz Fest 2008 and for this lifetime (so far) it is the best I've had.
From the Times-Picayune April 24, 2008 "Fans flock for Wanda Walker's cochon de lait po-boys"
At the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival presented by Shell, Walker and her catering company, Love at First Bite, will slow-smoke a ton -- literally -- of pork butt over a hot barbecue pit. Then they will layer mounds of the warm shredded pork with cold cabbage and a homemade horseradish sauce on French bread, balancing the hot and the cold, "the yin and the yang," as Walker puts it. And customers will be lining up for their portions.
"Cochon de lait" is the Cajun term for a roast suckling pig and the party for serving it. Walker said that trying to get enough meat off the bulky suckling pig is very hard. Instead, she uses bone-in pork roasts because they have "that good flavor boneless butts don't have."
The meat is heavily seasoned, then given 12 hours of slow hickory smoking.
As for the influence, "I think it's what we call New Orleans cooking," Walker said. "We have our own flavor here....It's not vinegary. It's not cooked without seasoning. Most people here (at the restaurant) don't want the sauce; they take the ribs the way they are."
Walker's barbecue sauce has a chipotle-tinged edge. When she's not catering at festivals, her restaurant serves ribs, chicken, brisket, chopped beef and sausage for lunch on a limited basis, currently Wednesdays through Saturdays. The restaurant opens at 10:30 a.m. and closes after the food is sold out, which is sometimes 12:30 p.m., sometimes 2:30 p.m.
A slightly different version of the cochon de lait po-boy, with coleslaw instead of cabbage and horseradish sauce, is served at the bare-bones restaurant at 10828 Hayne Blvd., across from the levee, in a still-struggling eastern New Orleans neighborhood. Walker and her husband, Skip, live nearby and are repairing their flood-damaged home themselves. Full article below. http://blog.nola.com/judywalker/2008/04/wanda_walker_keeps_her_cool_wh.html