Pics of my p30 truck build

Some pics of my Chevy p30. I have been working on internal mockups for local metal workers for the last two weeks. And I have since taken out all the interior metal siding. Looking forward to progressing on some of the major design points before getting down and dirty.
 
-Dave
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

You are going to close off access thru the rear doors  ...???... I just don't think that is good, but it is your truck.

I agree with Edwmax. Your griddle and steam table are movable if you need to get equipment in/out of the rear door but your hood vent will be in the way and you will have to unscrew the hood vent from the door in order to open it.
 
Do you not have enough room to put the hood vent on the driver side wall? What are the truck interior dimensions?

reese77


I agree with Edwmax. Your griddle and steam table are movable if you need to get equipment in/out of the rear door but your hood vent will be in the way and you will have to unscrew the hood vent from the door in order to open it.

Do you not have enough room to put the hood vent on the driver side wall? What are the truck interior dimensions?

 
Interior dimensions are W- 78", H- 74" L ("kitchen")- 10' 10".
 
Originally I did plan for the cooking equipment on one side, under a longer 8' hood.
I see your point about blocking the rear door, and that has been considered. Like you say Reese, because equipment is not completely built-in, it can be moved if needed to do major equipment swaps.
The hood would be approx 30" from the ceiling, which would leave at least 3 1/2 feet wide from floor x ~40 wide (w doors open) for these rare swaps.
 
Keep in mind, there are still two access points in the front of the vehicle, drivers side and passengers side doors.
 
But the more important advantages I see in mounting exhaust at the back are:
1) No heavy equipment mounted on roof (like a traditional roof mount exhaust fan).
2) Cleaner outside profile with no issues of extending width of rig with side wall mount exhaust.
3) I think rear mount will allow more natural flow of exhaust while in transit as well.
4) Equipment oriented at rear helps better manage balance and weight distribution in cab.
5) Cooking at a 90 degree angle from customer is better than 180.
6) I've seen many examples of pro-builds with this orientation.
 
All that said, the side oriented kitchen was my preferred layout for a long time. I am still working on the +/-'s. And what I find out about my exhaust fan options and custom metal labor costs will help me determine ultimately what the right plan is.
 
Thanks for your input.

I looked at a self-built truck for sale that had doors on the back like yours and had the "line" at the rear. But, they had been required by the HD in nevada to build the roof height to 8' tall. They added the hoods in that space overhead and kept the doors untouched.

 
I wish I had more pictures. It was kind of a oddly built truck. But had lots of headroom!
 

Yea, I could see where that would be a benefit is some respects, as I am 6'2" and more headroom would be great. But I also worry about overall structural integrity. If this was a truck I was planning to stay put, then it would be a little different. But I want to drive around town and hit various spots through the day. Which involves driving up and downhill, turning corners, etc. The last think I want is some top heavy beast tipping over on its side. That would not set a good precedent for the future of mobile food trucks to the locals. Also, totally re-roofing seems expensive and opens up weaknesses to rain and overall failure of the structure.
But if its a must, as with your example in NV, what can you do.
 
I did consider adding headroom with a S. Cali style Bubbletop roof. Which is a raised structure that holds 3-4 skylights and provides great additional headroom down the middle of the rig. But these are expensive $3000k+ and involve some of the same issues stated above.
 
My goal with this rig is to work within the confines of what I have. Keep things relatively affordable and if the concept proves profitable, take that knowledge and use it to invest in the dream truck. Or build up another one with a more ideal truck based on experiences learned from first one.
If it turns out the concept does not work the way I'd like, at least I didn't sink too much into this project and I did it well enough to sell it to someone else who wants to give it a shot.

the layout design that is shown is more for the California based food trucks that have the grills on the backside of the trucks, Those vent systems are different like the back of a bus vent system. Also they have a trap door under the grill in the event of a fire or something, they can roll out the back under the grill. I wouldn't set up the truck like that unless it's very long. You want to maximize your space efficiently. TRUST me on that one. This is my second build.  I also have alot of dead space at my roll up door, I will never ever use my roll up door unless I have to pull equipment out or put new in though and I'm just going to be putting a table back there for different uses. Mainly prep.

THE WILD DOG

 I also have alot of dead space at my roll up door, I will never ever use my roll up door unless I have to pull equipment out or put new in though and I'm just going to be putting a table back there for different uses. Mainly prep.

I'm not sure I understand your opinion. You state you have a lot of dead space at your rear door. But you do not recommend putting major equipment there? What is the orientation of your first rig?
I feel like if its not permanent in that it absolutely cannot be removed for access without cutting metal, I can still use that rear access point for major equipment swaps.
 
I would love to know of any other thoughtful objections to this kind of design based on personal experience.

My input is that in MN the HD requires stainless steel behind the cook line. Is that your situation too? If so will you be installed a wall to cover with stainless?

DWags541

THE WILD DOG

I also have alot of dead space at my roll up door, I will never ever use my roll up door unless I have to pull equipment out or put new in though and I'm just going to be putting a table back there for different uses. Mainly prep.

I'm not sure I understand your opinion. You state you have a lot of dead space at your rear door. But you do not recommend putting major equipment there? What is the orientation of your first rig?
I feel like if its not permanent in that it absolutely cannot be removed for access without cutting metal, I can still use that rear access point for major equipment swaps.

I would love to know of any other thoughtful objections to this kind of design based on personal experience.

kingofcreams


My input is that in MN the HD requires stainless steel behind the cook line. Is that your situation too? If so will you be installed a wall to cover with stainless?   .....

 
Are you sure that is in the HD Code?    .... Codes that I have seen, only require SS where metal surfaces (table/counter tops) are in contact with foods.   Galvanize steel does meet code requirements else where.   SS does look sharp and shiny, but that is an owner's choice not Code requirement.

Yeah I'm positive. I read a lengthy article from the heads of the MDH and the MN dept of Agriculture plus talked to my inspector about it and learned that MN food code states that stainless is required behind the cookline from the bottom edge of the hood to the floor. I am also required to have a stainless steel counter top for my sinks if I am dropping them in, which I did, or have a free standing sink with drain boards. Thats just too much space for me to take up.

Although I couldn't find it in the code that a stainless counter for the sinks is required only a laminated surface (thats what I put in my plan submission too) my inspector came back and said I had to drop the sinks into stainless. I didn't argue with her.

You made me do it with your sketchup layouts.   ... Anyway over the past 2 weeks I learn how to use it.      ... This is a space study & equipment layout  of a truck van.   ... Not prefect, but a starting point.
 

 

 

 

 
 

kingofcreams


Yeah I'm positive. I read a lengthy article from the heads of the MDH and the MN dept of Agriculture plus talked to my inspector about it and learned that MN food code states that stainless is required behind the cookline from the bottom edge of the hood to the floor. I am also required to have a stainless steel counter top for my sinks if I am dropping them in, which I did, or have a free standing sink with drain boards. Thats just too much space for me to take up.

 
A 'lengthy article' is not Code.  The Mn HD Code is at http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/food/code/
 
I don't see any requirement for surfaces to be SS by Code.

• 4626.0470 4-101.15 GALVANIZED METAL; USE LIMITATION.*
• 4626.0515 4-202.11 FOOD-CONTACT SURFACES.*
• 4626.0850 4-602.12 COOKING AND BAKING EQUIPMENT.
• 26.1325 6-101.11 SURFACE CHARACTERISTICS; INDOOR AREAS.

• 4626.1335 6-201.11 FLOORS, WALLS, AND CEILINGS.

 
Construction materials most likely are defined in the Mechanical Code for Kitchens.  I'll look for that later, but I know the IB Mech Code does not require SS behind the Cooking Equipment.
 

Ok ... I found the 'Food Service Construction Guide' at http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/food/license/summary.html     ... This is not the Mn Code and is a guide.  It reference 4616.0505 as it's authority, but several statement made in the guide is not what the Code stated.
 
It does make this statements about the wall behind cooking equipment: '14. Insulated stainless steel, ceramic tile or equivalent shall be installed behind cooking equipment. See Appendix page 31'
Note: App. page 31  has nothing to do with the wall behind cooking equipment (???).

if you notice page 28 it has the "wall exhaust hood detail" and in it it specifies flat 18 gage ss.
I also was told by my inspector doing my plan review that it had to be stainless so how can you argue with that.
 
I guess my point in even asking about the back wall of DWdags layout was to point out that a wall would need to be built. Wether or not it was covered in stainless, galvanized, tile or whatever.
 
I gotta say though edwmax, you are on your game for sure and I took alot from all the posts you've contributed to. The research you do and post on here definately benefits alot of peeps. Maybe you could give me an idea: I will need to vent my waste tank and I don't really want to run a pvc pipe on the exterior of my rig although I could. I am trying to find some sort of a two way air vent (lets air in and out) to install on the tank instead. You know of anything like that that's cheap? I've been searching the web and Grainger. 

edwmax


Ok ... I found the 'Food Service Construction Guide' at http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/food/license/summary.html     ... This is not the Mn Code and is a guide.  It reference 4616.0505 as it's authority, but several statement made in the guide is not what the Code stated.

It does make this statements about the wall behind cooking equipment: '14. Insulated stainless steel, ceramic tile or equivalent shall be installed behind cooking equipment. See Appendix page 31'
Note: App. page 31  has nothing to do with the wall behind cooking equipment (???).

Where is your waste tank located? Why would you need to run vent pipe on the outside?

kingofcreams


if you notice page 28 it has the "wall exhaust hood detail" and in it it specifies flat 18 gage ss.
I also was told by my inspector doing my plan review that it had to be stainless so how can you argue with that.

I guess my point in even asking about the back wall of DWdags layout was to point out that a wall would need to be built. Wether or not it was covered in stainless, galvanized, tile or whatever.
.......................

the detail on page 28 is a suggested/guide detail for constructing a non-combustible wall.  Meaning 'no wood' within or 18" beyond the wall area.    SS is shown there, but the Code itself doesn't state that.
 
My point is you need to know the Code well enough to know when the HD is requiring unreasonable & unnecessarily large expenditures.  then you would be prepared to discuss it. As long as you're willing & have the $$$ to do it their suggested way, then there is no problem.
 
For the waste tank vent, you only need a short vent pipe (1 1/2 or 2") at the high point on the tank.   This would be the max. height water could backup in the drain line if the tank filled up and it full fills the 'air gap' requirements to prevent waste from backing up into the sink.   The vent makes it imposable for waste to back up in the drain line. So you want the vent opening as close to the top of the tank as possible.  Use a short 3" - 4" long pvc pipe vertical if possible,  ... horizontal if necessary.
 
 
 

I am installing it underneath the trailer. I was thinking the vent would need to run to the roof so rather than go through the interior space I was thinking I may have to run it along the exterior wall.

chefbuba


Where is your waste tank located? Why would you need to run vent pipe on the outside?

I agree with you on knowing the code well enough. Granted maybe I didn't know it as well as I thought. However, for whatever reason the inspectors are telling mobile vendors they need stainless behind the cook line. I know a few others around here with new builds in the past few years that were required to used stainless also. For the $80 it cost me for the sheet of stainless it's not worth the argument.  Thanks for your input though.
 
So for the tank vent are you saying 1 1/2 or 2" diameter 3 to 4 inches long or the pipe (diameter doesn matter, could I use say 3/4 or 1" diameter) that is 1 1/2 to 4 inches long? I havent gotten to the waste tank in my build yet but I am thinking my vent will have to be horizontal cause I want my tank top to sit flush with the underside of the floor in between the beams.
 

edwmax

kingofcreams


if you notice page 28 it has the "wall exhaust hood detail" and in it it specifies flat 18 gage ss.
I also was told by my inspector doing my plan review that it had to be stainless so how can you argue with that.

I guess my point in even asking about the back wall of DWdags layout was to point out that a wall would need to be built. Wether or not it was covered in stainless, galvanized, tile or whatever.
.......................

the detail on page 28 is a suggested/guide detail for constructing a non-combustible wall.  Meaning 'no wood' within or 18" beyond the wall area.    SS is shown there, but the Code itself doesn't state that.

My point is you need to know the Code well enough to know when the HD is requiring unreasonable & unnecessarily large expenditures.  then you would be prepared to discuss it. As long as you're willing & have the $$$ to do it their suggested way, then there is no problem.

For the waste tank vent, you only need a short vent pipe (1 1/2 or 2") at the high point on the tank.   This would be the max. height water could backup in the drain line if the tank filled up and it full fills the 'air gap' requirements to prevent waste from backing up into the sink.   The vent makes it imposable for waste to back up in the drain line. So you want the vent opening as close to the top of the tank as possible.  Use a short 3" - 4" long pvc pipe vertical if possible,  ... horizontal if necessary.

What's behimd the stainless cover in the right hand corner behind the hand sink?
Could you us e that for a chase to the roof?

edwmax


You made me do it with your sketchup layouts.   ... Anyway over the past 2 weeks I learn how to use it.      ... This is a space study & equipment layout  of a truck van.   ... Not prefect, but a starting point.

 
Nice Work!
Is that completely built from scratch in Sketchup? If so, you really mastered the program in 2 weeks! I think you are a lot farther along than I am. Definitely once you get past the learning curve, you can whip out models pretty easily.
I wanted to ask you about your sink. Whats the total width? I imagine that small sink in the middle will not be very functional. But maybe it is meant to just fit the requirement as a token gesture. My 3 compartment will only take up 3' in width. Perhaps your design saves a little more space.

Yep   ... from scratch   ... the truck and most of the equipment is available from 3D warehouse. I had to make the food warmer, frier, & the condiment cold tray.  I had to resize the SS tables and the metal sink cabinet (shortened by 2 ft).  The sink is a residential SS sink.  It probably would not pass the HD, but a starting point to define available space.  I left out the Hand washing sink (??) ... need a bigger truck! ...
 
The questions I have now, is what supplies are a must (paper goods, ect); space for bread/buns;  what is the minimum (good) working width of the counter (18" in model); height to the bottom of the serving window.   ... Maybe DR BBQ can help here...???...
 
The over head boxes are 15"x16"20". These should match case size of cups, plates & napkins. A case of cups is about a 1000 pcs, so one box could hold 3 different sizes of cups for one day of service for tea & coffee.  Cold drinks by can or bottle in cooler.     ... I think if one was doing a multi-day event, then pull a 4x6 or 5x8 enclosed trailer for extra supplies & generator; .... BBQ grill/smoker.
 
.... ....
 
 
 

I'm working on a model of a ASME LP tank (100#) to mount under the bed.

DWags541

.....
I wanted to ask you about your sink. Whats the total width? I imagine that small sink in the middle will not be very functional. But maybe it is meant to just fit the requirement as a token gesture. My 3 compartment will only take up 3' in width. Perhaps your design saves a little more space.

 
Sorry   ... I see I didn't answer the question   ... the sink measure 39"x20". Those are large 15"x13 1/2" bowels. I think the cabinet needs to shorten another 6" to 8". The cabinet is 66" long now. .... It would be more practical to custom build this in place with a SS top and have the top with 1 1/2" or 2" lip turned up as a drain board.

I'm from Brazil, and would make a restaurant in a bus. I count on the help ofmembers of this forum.
grateful

You don't have to post the same thing 6 times Augusto. We got it. Introduce yourself instead. Take pics of your bus and share them!

The questions I have now, is what supplies are a must (paper goods, ect); space for bread/buns;  what is the minimum (good) working width of the counter (18" in model); height to the bottom of the serving window.   ... Maybe DR BBQ can help here...??
 
I think it depends on how long and far away you are from your home base. If you can keep a case of any paper goods in your garage do so and you'll quickly learn what you need to take with you to an event or daily lunch. Don't try and carry everything your going to need for a week or a month unless you have a really big rig, with a ton of storage.
 
My counters are 24 inches deep and I think they are perfect for my trailer. My service window is 36 inches from my floor, but I think the most important measurement is the height of your service window from the ground outside your trailer.  If that measurement is right for walk ups then your ok. I do drive ups 99% of the time and only get an occasional walk up. One other thought keep the inside of your truck as simple as possible don't put things in that your only going to use once or twice a year. I do some gigs that require special equipment but it sits in my garage until I need it and then I haul it out and after the event we clean it and put it back in storage. And for gods sake remember when you install anything that has an open shelf below it, that area will be the best hiding place in the world for dust, and grease. HD inspectors love to get on their hands and knees looking for grime in those areas, and especially on the walls under a ss table with a shelf. My step van build will have closed cabinets where ever possible.  
jack

kingofcreams

.......

So for the tank vent are you saying 1 1/2 or 2" diameter 3 to 4 inches long or the pipe (diameter doesn matter, could I use say 3/4 or 1" diameter) that is 1 1/2 to 4 inches long? I havent gotten to the waste tank in my build yet but I am thinking my vent will have to be horizontal cause I want my tank top to sit flush with the underside of the floor in between the beams.

.......

 
Ok … first check with RV dealer about what the standard vent and drain size normally used on RV waste tanks.   This will verify my following comment.
 
The drain outlet is usually about 2 ½” or 3” dia. (typ. 3” sometimes maybe 4”).  So when a tank starts to drain there will be a large suction of air.  The vent (IMHO) needs to be 2” dia min to prevent collapsing the tank and sucking the water out of the P-traps.    … The larger the drain & vent, the faster the tank will empty.
 
Making the vent pipe horizontal is done alot, when it cannot be placed on top of the tank as in your case.  Just be aware the bottom of the vent pipe is the maximum fill line of the waste tank and the capacity of the tank is reduced.   …  as a thought, would it be possible to turn the vent up and then into the wheel well above top of the tank?

My waste tank valve is 3", both of my TT waste valves have been 3", but they come in a variety of sizes. I would suggest 3", dumps real fast!
Both of the vents on my trailer are 1 1/2" dia