When BBQ isn't Roadfood
Ok, maybe these food shows ARE ruining roadfood tradition. I voted that all the attention is good, but what about BBQ places opening that are more white linen than brown paper?
I get it, smoked flavor is good. Nay, it's great! So I guess it stands to reason that high end restaurants are coming on board, hiring pit masters, then shaving the delicate meat to put into delicate meals, presented in stunning fashion. I do, I really get it. It's smart. It does extend classical food prep to include the pit cooked meat...but, the name "Fatty 'Cue" - seems to infer the traditional pithouse, brown paper table covering, bbq beans and slow cooked greens, rather than this
So, is Fatty 'Cue "roadfood?" I dunno. How about "Smoke Restaurant
" in Dallas with it's signature appetizer of duck foie gras and chicken liver pate with "ham jelly" topped with smoked red onion marmalade? Or Woodshed Smokehouse
, with red piquillo peppers stuffed with smoked brisket served in a beef-bone broth sprinkled with cotija cheese? It certainly is a different direction than Chubby's, Dinosaur Bar-be-cue, Lexington #1, and the pit house movement.
on washingtonpost.com comment board, jhtlag1 wrote: "...It's just wrong, like paying a lot for blue jeans." And that was most positive comment.
Or perhaps, instead of the question of whether it's"roadfood," better to first ask, "is this still BBQ?"