Hot!When BBQ isn't Roadfood

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2012/04/30 12:26:21 (permalink)

When BBQ isn't Roadfood

Ok, maybe these food shows ARE ruining roadfood tradition. I voted that all the attention is good, but what about BBQ places opening that are more white linen than brown paper?
 
I get it, smoked flavor is good. Nay, it's great! So I guess it stands to reason that high end restaurants are coming on board, hiring pit masters, then shaving the delicate meat to put into delicate meals, presented in stunning fashion. I do, I really get it. It's smart. It does extend classical food prep to include the pit cooked meat...but, the name "Fatty 'Cue" - seems to infer the traditional pithouse, brown paper table covering, bbq beans and slow cooked greens, rather than this place.
 
So, is Fatty 'Cue "roadfood?" I dunno. How about "Smoke Restaurant" in Dallas with it's signature appetizer of duck foie gras and chicken liver pate with "ham jelly" topped with smoked red onion marmalade? Or Woodshed Smokehouse, with red piquillo peppers stuffed with smoked brisket served in a beef-bone broth sprinkled with cotija cheese? It certainly is a different direction than Chubby's, Dinosaur Bar-be-cue, Lexington #1, and the pit house movement.
 
on washingtonpost.com comment board, jhtlag1 wrote: "...It's just wrong, like paying a lot for blue jeans." And that was most positive comment.
 
Or perhaps, instead of the question of whether it's"roadfood," better to first ask, "is this still BBQ?"
 
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