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"A Great Meal Tops Good Intentions" THEY are two of the world’s most acclaimed chefs, each with a raft of awards, a constellation of stars and schools of kitchen alumni spreading their gospel. So when the American chef
Thomas Keller and Andoni Luis Aduriz of Spain sat down last week for a joint interview, they were in a position to back each other up while slicing through some of the profession’s favorite platitudes.
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Chang W. Lee/The New York Times Andoni Luis Aduriz
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Chang W. Lee/The New York Times Thomas Keller
Supporting local agriculture and food traditions? Far too narrow a goal, they said. Chefs’ obligation to help save the planet? A lofty idea, they agreed, but the priority is creating great, brilliant food.
“With the relatively small number of people I feed, is it really my responsibility to worry about carbon footprint?” Mr. Keller asked. “The world’s governments should be worrying about carbon footprint.”
The two men were at Per Se, Mr. Keller’s New York restaurant, as part of the kickoff for Mr. Aduriz’s first English-language book, “Mugaritz: A Natural Science of Cooking,” for which Mr. Keller wrote a foreword.
Mr. Aduriz is one of the figures — including René Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen, Ferran Adrià in Catalonia and Mr. Keller — who have ambitious young chefs around the world hanging on their every word.
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