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 Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico

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EdSails

  • Total Posts: 3556
  • Joined: 5/9/2003
  • Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 2:36 AM (permalink)
Recently, I did another cruise of the Panama Canal. Being the Roadfoodie that I am, I looked for some neat places to eat. During my research, I found a food tour in Puerto Vallarta that looked really interesting. On board the ship I met several others who had booked the tour also with Vallarta Food Tours and we took a few vans to get to where the walking tour started. It was awesome, to say the least.
 
Our guide, Ricardo was a blast. He grew up and lived most of his life in Los Angeles, moving to Mexico a few years ago to enjoy life with much less expenses. The food tour company itself was started by a couple from Colorado who fell in love with Puerto Vallarta and moved there. 

We started the walk, seeing some of the non-touristy streets in Puerto Vallarta, exactly the type of area that is a Roadfooder's delight. Soon enough we came to our first stop, which Ricardo explained was the best carne asada taco cart in Puerto Vallarta. Tacos el Cuñado has been in the family since 1968. Unlike most taco places in the U.S., they specialize in only the beef carne asada and marinated pork tacos. They are prepared fresh and served on soft corn tortillas.

On the side of the counter are 4 types of fresh-made salsa, from mild to habenero hot. To accompany them, there is a small salsa bar which has sliced radishes, a terrific pineapple habernero salsa, fresh pico de gallo, onions and fresh chopped cilantro.

Ricardo introduced us to the owner and told us about the place. It is a medium sized trailer, big enough for two people to work in.

The aroma from it was amazing. As we watched, he prepared our carne asada tacos. The meat was delicious, nicely seasoned and cooked so it was still moist with a nice crispiness on many of the pieces. On the side I had the radishes and the pineapple habanero salsa, one of the most delicious salsas I have ever had anywhere.

 

This was a great start to the tour and exactly the kind of place I wanted to see.
   
We walked a few blocks further, listening to stories about a restaurant that had been frequented by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor during the filming of the “Night of the Iguana”. We walked down a pier with a stylized “sail” and then down the Puerto Vallarta beach, stopping to look at some skewers being grilled for sale, a very popular item for the beach there.

 

 

It was a very nice beach with a lot of restaurants on the walkway alongside it. We turned back up into the main section of the “old” part of Puerto Vallarta. A few blacks and we came to our second stop, Cesar's Coconut Stand, another place still in the family since 1984. It's a tiny cart, with Cesar doing all the work himself.

Behind him, in the building where he lives upstairs, is the storage for all the coconuts he uses daily. With a deft hand, he punctures the coconuts and pours out the delicious coconut water into a cup for his customers.


 

The second part of the treat is when he hacks the coconut open, taking out the delicious flesh and sprinkling a special spice mix on it, consisting of salt, some chili powder and a few other items. The sweetness of the flesh played perfectly with the spicy topping. Ever smiling, he was happy to see that we enjoyed his coconuts so much.
 
The next stop was what I had been waiting for---a cevicheria. Cevicheria El Guero had maybe eight tables in it.

The ceviche was made fresh. We started with a drink of Jamaica, a drink that is more tart than sweet, an aguas fresca that I get most of the time when I go for tacos near me. As we sipped the refreshing drink, Ricardo told us about the place's history and the fact that we had to wait for the ceviche because it was made fresh to order.

The place was packed with locals and seemed to also do a brisk take-out business of ceviche, shrimp and octopus cocktails and marlin quesadillas.



When the ceviche tostadas arrived, they were perfect, fresh with delectable fish on a crisp tortilla.

Hot sauce was available but it didn't need it with the onions, cilantro and peppers in it.
It was topped with a nice slice of creamy avocado, with a sliced lime on the side to add a brightness to the marinated local fish. It was delicious and exceptionally fresh.

After we left the cevicheria, we walked past a fish market where the fishmonger held up a nice dorado for us to see.

This could very well be the place El Guero gets the fresh fish from for his ceviche. Next on the tour was a tortilla factory. In the Tortelleria el Gloria we were taken through the process of making tortillas, watching as they piled up and also watching as people came in to buy 3 or more dozen at a time.

Next, we were shown how to roll tortillas and how to cool them off, a process that came in handy a minute later when we were each given a tortilla to try, but needed to flip them from one hand to the other until they were cool enough to hold and eat. Yummy!


 
We came to a rickety foot-bridge which we were told is “the better of the two that cross the river” and proceeded to a small island that has become an art center and place for small shops.


On the way, we passed an iguana that looked like he was just enjoying the sun. It must have been the "Day of the Iguana"!

We got to the other bridge which was even more fun to cross. Having made it safely across, we proceeded to a non-food stop, the beautiful old cathedral in Puerto Vallarta.

After seeing the inside, we went to Gaby's Restaurant, a fairly recently started place on our tour, having opened in 1989.


We were introduced to Cristina, the founder of Gaby's, known for the excellence of their molés and for their delicious tortilla soup. First though, we were served a shot of tequila, accompanied by a shot of lime juice and one of sangrita, a mixture of citrus and pomegranate juices warmed up with chile powder, a traditional accompaniment to tequila in the state of Jalisco where tequila is made.

We then were served their tortilla soup, a far cry from what we think of as tortilla soup in the States. Tasty broth, tortillas still crispy, Cotija, a Mexican cheese similar to feta for a sharp flavor and plenty of fresh peppers, onions and other veggies.

 

It was absolutely delicious, and perfect to enjoy as a mariachi group walked in to play a few songs for us.



The final dish was two chicken mole enchiladas, one with a green sauce and the other with the traditional chocolate sauce.


Before they were served, we were told the stories about the history of molé --both the fact, the fiction and also that no one really knew which ones were true and which ones not.

The taste was remarkable, the green molé, a tomatillo sauce with much more depth than the traditional verde sauces. The brown molé was rich, with flavors certainly unlike any I've ever had, even in restaurants in Los Angeles that supposedly specialize in molé. It was a case of “I was blind, but now I can see” and certainly a far cry from the jarred stuff sold in markets as molé sauce. The flavor was complex and each bite presented a different taste to notice. It was certainly one of the most delicious Mexican dishes I've ever had.

After the enchiladas, we sat for a few minutes while we heard from Ricardo how Cristina was convinced to open a restaurant in her house and how it developed into one of the top Mexican restaurants in the country.


 
We started walking again, to a large plaza in the central section of town called the Malecon. There we met up with one of the most interesting of the vendors, a man by the name of Conception.

He is known for his preparation of tuba, a fermented coconut palm drink.

The drink is poured out of a gourd that he makes it fresh in every day, a concentrate that he mixes with cold water and chipped ice when serving and then topped off by some walnuts and a bit of chopped apple for a garnish and extra flavor.


Not expecting much, I was really surprised by the flavor, not too sweet and certainly not with a raw fermented flavor. Instead, it was smooth and refreshing, with the garnish adding a surprising bit of texture and flavor. He did not speak English at all, but the smiles on our faces told him what we thought of his drink. With limited Spanish, I did say “muchos gracias” to him as we left for our last stop.
 
A few blocks further and up a few blocks was our final stop. Con Orgullo Azteca Candy Store was started by two partners who wanted to keep alive the traditional candies of Mexico. They started with a cart, moved into a store across the street and now have four stores in Puerto Vallarta.

We sampled several types of traditional candies, including coconut, glazed nut and a type of chocolate fudge. We also got to try a rather interesting tequila and coconut soft candy called cocada tequila, taken out of a cabinet filled with bees, busy with their honeycomb on the far side of the cabinet.

Before the candy maker opened the cabinet, he did ask if any one was allergic to bee stings. The lengths some people go to for a taste of candy! It really was delicious, as were all of them and a perfect capper to the end of the day's tour.
This walking tour was the perfect Roadfood tour, except in Mexico. I would highly recommend it to any one in Puerto Vallarta looking for something more authentic than Señor Frogs's and Chico's Paradise Bar and Grill. This was the real thing and a great way to taste the food the locals eat. Vallarta Food Tours certainly has picked a nice variety of places to enjoy the real flavor of Mexico.
 
www.vallartafoodtours.com
 
Tel: 1-888-457-2210
 
 
<message edited by EdSails on Tue, 10/29/13 2:49 PM>
 
#1
    ChiTownDiner

    Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 7:07 AM (permalink)
    Ed - Fantastic experience...As I'm reading I'm thinking, yeah the cerviche, no now the soup...but the enchiladas, they stole the show!  Nice report...thanks!
     
    #2
      will_work_4_bbq

      • Total Posts: 399
      • Joined: 1/11/2006
      • Location: Birmingham, AL
      Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 7:10 AM (permalink)
      Fabulous tour!  Adventures in eating!
       
      #3
        buffetbuster

        Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 7:11 AM (permalink)
        WOW!  This is some fantastic stuff!  Everything looks so good, but it is the ceviche and the mole enchiladas that really grabbed my attention.  And the photos of the people are wonderful.  Thanks so much for this great report!
         
        #4
          Sundancer7

          Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 7:28 AM (permalink)
          EdSails:  Roz and I were in Panama about two years ago.  We enjoyed the canal, food and certainly the Jungles and birding.  We were amazed at the size of Panama City and the skyscrapers.  We drove the length of the canal which is very busy with vessels 24 7.
           
          Paul E. Smith
          Knoxville, TN
           
          #5
            ann peeples

            • Total Posts: 8317
            • Joined: 5/21/2006
            • Location: West Allis, Wisconsin
            Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 7:53 AM (permalink)
            I need to dine with you more often! Great report!
             
            #6
              agnesrob

              • Total Posts: 1790
              • Joined: 6/4/2006
              • Location: Park Ridge, NJ
              Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 8:28 AM (permalink)
              What an interesting report! Thanks for sharing it with us!
               
              #7
                TnTinCT

                Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 9:56 AM (permalink)
                Sounds like you had an amazing eating experience! Thanks for sharing the stories and pics, really enjoyed.
                 
                #8
                  EdSails

                  • Total Posts: 3556
                  • Joined: 5/9/2003
                  • Location: Mission Viejo, CA
                  Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 12:28 PM (permalink)
                  It was an amazing experience. To be able to see an area and the places we like to eat at---the ones the locals like----is great to be able to do. Personally, I did like the mole best, which really surprised me as I'm such a ceviche fanatic. It was just such an interesting flavor, something that worked so well that you wonder why it's not more popular than tacos. But then, my understanding is the better moles have 30+ ingredients in them, so it is definitely not something everyone can make. 
                   
                   
                   
                  #9
                    Michael Hoffman

                    • Total Posts: 17815
                    • Joined: 7/1/2000
                    • Location: Gahanna, OH
                    Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 12:31 PM (permalink)
                    Beautiful! And I love coconut water, but it's best when there's some Mt. Gay Eclipse rum added to it.
                     
                    #10
                      lleechef

                      • Total Posts: 6220
                      • Joined: 3/22/2003
                      • Location: Gahanna, OH
                      Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 1:05 PM (permalink)
                      It all looks good to me!  Beautiful pictures!  Reminds me of Brazil......there are vendors on the beach with coconuts.......they cut the top off and plunk a straw into it and you are instantly refreshed by cold coconut water. 
                       
                      #11
                        Pancho

                        • Total Posts: 915
                        • Joined: 10/20/2004
                        • Location: Madison, WI
                        Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 1:40 PM (permalink)
                        Fantastic report! It was like reading a beautiful book full of pictures. I can't wait to show my wife when she gets home. We have both been to PV and love it there. I want that ceviche for lunch!
                         
                        #12
                          Sundancer7

                          Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 1:48 PM (permalink)
                          EdSails:  Roz and I were in Panama about two years ago during Thanksgiving.  We did a lot of driving, birding, fooding and some imbiding.  Beautiful country, jungles and critters.

                          Roz and I were in Gamboa and it is a resort not far from the Canal and off the main channel

                          I had some very real local huge seafood cerviche.  Double outstanding

                          The was a ex US military radar and observation post now converted to a birding resort.  Sorta expensive.
                           
                          I have no idea what this varmit is but there were a bunch of them on the grounds of the Gamboa Rainforest resort.  There were about six times the size of a squirrel.

                          It was Thanksgiving when we were there and the decorate just like any other USA large mall.

                          I hve seen some strange skyscrapers but I believe this one tops them all.

                          A neat skyline shot of Panama City.  This is about half of the visible city.  Where did this wealth come from?  Guess.
                          img]http://www.roadfood.com/insider/photos/12946.jpg[/img]
                          <message edited by Sundancer7 on Tue, 10/29/13 2:22 PM>
                           
                          #13
                            EdSails

                            • Total Posts: 3556
                            • Joined: 5/9/2003
                            • Location: Mission Viejo, CA
                            Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 3:08 PM (permalink)
                            Paul,
                            That must have been a fantastic trip. Great memories for you---and fantastic shots of Roz. One my trip in 2010, I did my "Cruising for Roadfood" thread about the Canal and my ceviche in Panama City. I must admit, yours looks even better than the one I had in Panama City! I agree with you about Gamboa, we took a boat trip to "Monkey Island" to see the monkeys and birds and it is just a wonderful place of nature, which contrasts with the technical portion of the Canal to make the Canal the incredibly interesting place that it is. 
                             
                            #14
                              Pancho

                              • Total Posts: 915
                              • Joined: 10/20/2004
                              • Location: Madison, WI
                              Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 4:00 PM (permalink)
                              Paul...great shots of Panama City....the critter is a agouti, btw. Looks like an oversized guinea pig.
                               
                              #15
                                Sundancer7

                                Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 4:25 PM (permalink)
                                Pancho:  You nailed it.  I had not idea but there was a bunch of them around.
                                 
                                EdSails:  Sounds like you were at Gamboa?  The Gamboa Rainforest resort was super and Roz and I enjoyed a few beers, food and certainly the view from their deck.  The water you see was a tributary to the canal.  Lotsa birds and animals.

                                 
                                Paul E. Smith
                                Knoxville, TN
                                 
                                #16
                                  EdSails

                                  • Total Posts: 3556
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                                  Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 4:55 PM (permalink)
                                  Sundancer7


                                  Pancho:  You nailed it.  I had not idea but there was a bunch of them around.

                                  EdSails:  Sounds like you were at Gamboa?  The Gamboa Rainforest resort was super and Roz and I enjoyed a few beers, food and certainly the view from their deck.  The water you see was a tributary to the canal.  Lotsa birds and animals.


                                  Paul E. Smith
                                  Knoxville, TN

                                   
                                  Yes, it was on my first trip to the Canal where we went to Gatun Lake and then tendered to Gamboa to take the boat to Monkey Island. We had enough time to have libations in the bar at the resort when the boat got back. 

                                   
                                  #17
                                    Sundancer7

                                    Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 5:50 PM (permalink)
                                    EdSails:  I believe we were at the same bar at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort?  If so, what a coincidence???  The pic I posted was outside the bar on the patio overlooking the tributary to the canal.
                                     
                                    Paul E. Smith
                                    Knoxville, TN
                                     
                                    #18
                                      EdSails

                                      • Total Posts: 3556
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                                      • Location: Mission Viejo, CA
                                      Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 6:36 PM (permalink)
                                      Sounds like it. I'll drink to that!
                                       
                                      #19
                                        Sundancer7

                                        Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 6:48 PM (permalink)
                                        EdSails


                                        Sounds like it. I'll drink to that!

                                         
                                        I have been drinking to that ever since
                                         
                                        Paul E. Smith
                                        Knoxville, TN

                                         
                                        #20
                                          pnwchef

                                          • Total Posts: 2230
                                          • Joined: 3/16/2011
                                          • Location: Kennewick, WA
                                          Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Tue, 10/29/13 8:28 PM (permalink)
                                          Ed I have walked this bridge many time, never walk it sober.
                                           

                                           
                                          The seafood cocktail place you stopped at had a fish mkt right nextdoor. Across the street was a chicken take out, down a few doors when walking to the tortilla factory did you see the Pie lady shop ???? worth a stop, that is my go to place for Flan..........Happy you had a great time..............Bill
                                           
                                          #21
                                            EdSails

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                                            Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Wed, 10/30/13 1:14 AM (permalink)
                                            Bill,
                                            Sounds like I'll have to go to PV with you next time! I will definitely b e going back, and flan----oh my. I'm on it!
                                             
                                            Ed
                                             
                                            #22
                                              myterry2

                                              • Total Posts: 526
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                                              • Location: Lake Forest, IL
                                              Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Wed, 10/30/13 2:08 AM (permalink)
                                              Panama City is one of my favorites....it's a great place to retire to.
                                               
                                              #23
                                                crew84row

                                                • Total Posts: 173
                                                • Joined: 9/9/2008
                                                • Location: Tallahassee, FL
                                                Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Wed, 10/30/13 9:29 AM (permalink)
                                                Street food is Mexico is the best! I'm surprised that cruise excursions have these places on their list.  The one now offered in Cozumel hits a couple of restos owned by an Italian family.  Good Italian and good deli but certainly not Yucatan chow.  Less costly and more locally oriented to hit the truck across from the International Pier.
                                                 
                                                #24
                                                  pnwchef

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                                                  Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Wed, 10/30/13 11:03 AM (permalink)
                                                   Ed, I know your time in PV was limited, you did well with the food tour. Most people don't get a chance to see and taste the wonders of Old Town PV. The foods you had were a great experience of what this area offers. I figure you saw the old church in Old Town, Liz Taylor & Richard Burtons home back in the day, is up on the hill from that church. When she had a fight with him she knocked down the bridge. After the fight was over, back comes the bridge............I hope PV left you with a taste in your mouth to return to Old Town PV..............take care......Bill
                                                   

                                                   
                                                   
                                                   
                                                  #25
                                                    ScreamingChicken

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                                                    Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Wed, 10/30/13 11:41 AM (permalink)
                                                    Ed, the word that comes to mind is colorful - both visually and culturally!
                                                     
                                                    #26
                                                      CajunKing

                                                      • Total Posts: 6317
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                                                      • Roadfood Insider
                                                      Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Wed, 10/30/13 10:22 PM (permalink)
                                                      Ed  - A beautiful trip report, it looks and sounds like you had a wonderful trip.  The coconut meat looked like a beautiful filet of fish, and looked good until you said it was coconut 
                                                       
                                                      #27
                                                        EdSails

                                                        • Total Posts: 3556
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                                                        Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Thu, 10/31/13 2:16 AM (permalink)
                                                        pnwchef


                                                         Ed, I know your time in PV was limited, you did well with the food tour. Most people don't get a chance to see and taste the wonders of Old Town PV. The foods you had were a great experience of what this area offers. I figure you saw the old church in Old Town, Liz Taylor & Richard Burtons home back in the day, is up on the hill from that church. When she had a fight with him she knocked down the bridge. After the fight was over, back comes the bridge............I hope PV left you with a taste in your mouth to return to Old Town PV..............take care......Bill

                                                         

                                                         
                                                        Bill,
                                                        I spoke with the owner of the tour company today. She knew about the pie lady but wasn't sure if she was still around. She'll let me know. We didn't make it to Burton's place----I guess that's for my next trip!
                                                         
                                                        Ed
                                                         
                                                         
                                                         
                                                        #28
                                                          joerogo

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                                                          Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Thu, 10/31/13 7:18 AM (permalink)
                                                          Ed, Another great trip!  Nothing like RFing from a cruise ship.
                                                           
                                                          I always hear about rough waters when cruising the west coast.  How bad is it?  
                                                           
                                                          #29
                                                            EdSails

                                                            • Total Posts: 3556
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                                                            Re:Roadfooding Tour in Puerto Vallarta Mexico Fri, 11/1/13 12:50 AM (permalink)
                                                            joerogo


                                                            Ed, Another great trip!  Nothing like RFing from a cruise ship.

                                                            I always hear about rough waters when cruising the west coast.  How bad is it?  

                                                             
                                                            All relative. I didn't feel anything bad but heard that some people felt "green". At some spots I felt movement, but nothing bad.
                                                             
                                                            #30
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