Scott's Harbor Grill

12719 S West Bay Shore Dr., Traverse City, MI - (231) 922-2114

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Posted By Michael Stern on 6/5/2002 4:04:00 AM

A polite restaurant with a full menu that ranges from tapas to brownie turtle hot fudge sundaes, Scott’s Harbor Grill is worth putting in the little black book for its excellent lake fish. Lemon pepper whitefish, which the menu says is procured in Naubinway, Michigan, is soft-fleshed, pure white, perfectly complemented by the butter and wine and lemon-pepper dressing in which it’s cooked. We are especially fond of the Canadian walleye this kitchen makes. Nothing could be simpler: a big hunk of char-broiled filet seasoned with only lemon and butter. Its meat is dense, moist, and ineffably flavorful with a delicacy that is a world apart from the seafaring taste of ocean fish.

We were less impressed by a large-size but small-flavored sirloin steak in a nest of potato straws; nor did we much like the rough-grained baguette set down on the table at the beginning of the meal in a white paper bag to keep it warm. The presentation might be a good idea; the bread itself, although warm and crusty, has no character.

For dessert, there is fine peach pie served with cinnamon ice cream and there is an item called Joel’s Flight North, which is massive amounts of vanilla ice cream, hot fudge and kahlua … served with two spoons. The ice cream is excellent: locally-made Moomer’s brand.

In addition to that good fish and ice cream, Scott’s is known for its extensive wine list and for a bar that expertly concocts adult libations ranging from martinis to sex on the beach. The setting is charming to the nth degree; the enclosed dining room and open-air deck overlook the boat slips of the Harbor West Yacht Club and, beyond that, the jewel-blue waters of West Grand Traverse Bay.

Scorecard

Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip

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"A plate of Canadian walleye on a table overlooking Grand Traverse Bay. That asparagus on the right is Michigan fresh, a special spring treat in these parts."
Michael Stern

"What a good way to begin a meal: smoked whitefish salad with a few capers and a lot of crackers."
Michael Stern