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S&S Dugout

3449 Post Road, Southport, CT - (203) 255-2579
Posted By Michael Stern on 6/14/2002 4:20:00 AM
When you sit at the counter and watch one of the S&S men make a roast beef sandwich, you will be astonished at how much beef they pile onto the roll. On top of the thick sheaf of rosy red beef go the garnishes of choice – lettuce and tomato, let’s say – then, on top of that, more roast beef. It is a very big sandwich, and it is very, very delicious. The beef is sliced to order for each sandwich from a freshly cooked, well-seasoned roast; and while there are many other good things to eat at the S&S Dugout, it is this superb sandwich that has caused customers to return time and again ever since the Post Road diner opened its doors in 1950.

The S&S is still run by its original proprietor, Ed Saloomey, who gave the restaurant a baseball name to honor his beloved New York Yankees. While sandwich-making at Ed's place is now the work of younger men, you’ll see Ed behind the counter working the meat slicer and making sure everything runs the way it should. In addition to four-star roast beef, he makes ham that is also sliced thin and piled high for sandwiches. Both ham and beef are terrific served cold and on a roll with mayo, etc., and both can be had on a hot sandwich, too, with delicious griddle-cooked potatoes on the side. One other essential specialty of the S&S is hand-formed sausage patties – rugged, spicy, and succulent.

The Dugout is a colorful local eatery whose very survival into the twenty-first century, on a busy road along Connecticut’s Gold Coast, is a small miracle for which we give thanks. We came upon it about twenty-five years ago and even then thought of it as a very old-fashioned kind of hash house with its worn Formica counter always strewn with the newspapers of the day. Although we loved the sandwiches, we lost track of the Dugout as we moved further north; and when we did think about it, we just assumed that it probably was defunct. Then a few weeks ago we got a note from roadfood.com correspondent Steve Macauley who asked, “How did you guys miss The S&S Dugout in Southport (Fairfield), Connecticut?” Suddenly, our mouths were watering for roast beef, ham, and a slice of roadside life unchanged since the 1950s. Thanks, Steve!

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Scorecard

4 - Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip
Overall: One of the Best - Worth a Trip
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

There's not a better roast beef sandwich this side of Boston. Note the double layer of meat, separated by lettuce and tomato.
"There's not a better roast beef sandwich this side of Boston. Note the double layer of meat, separated by lettuce and tomato."
Michael Stern





S&S hot-spiced sausage patties make a wonderful sandwich with roasted peppers, onions, and cheese.
"S&S hot-spiced sausage patties make a wonderful sandwich with roasted peppers, onions, and cheese."
Michael Stern


When you order a ham or roast beef sandwich at the S&S, you will be asked if you want it hot or cold. It's a tough decision, but when it comes to ham, we like it hot. Here's hot ham with Swiss cheese, mayo, mustard, lettuce, and tomato.
"When you order a ham or roast beef sandwich at the S&S, you will be asked if you want it hot or cold. It's a tough decision, but when it comes to ham, we like it hot. Here's hot ham with Swiss cheese, mayo, mustard, lettuce, and tomato."
Michael Stern


S&S crinkle-cut French fries are perfectly good, but we cannot resist a side order of mashed potatoes. After mashing, they are cooked on the grill until they develop a nice crunchy surface.
"S&S crinkle-cut French fries are perfectly good, but we cannot resist a side order of mashed potatoes. After mashing, they are cooked on the grill until they develop a nice crunchy surface."
Michael Stern


The S&S has only mellowed since it opened in 1950. A picture on the wall shows it when it was smaller, but the ambience and the excellent sandwiches have never changed.
"The S&S has only mellowed since it opened in 1950. A picture on the wall shows it when it was smaller, but the ambience and the excellent sandwiches have never changed."
Michael Stern


If you don't choose to sit at the counter, this is your alternative: a couple of booths on the other side of the room.
"If you don't choose to sit at the counter, this is your alternative: a couple of booths on the other side of the room."
Michael Stern


Here's a Formica counter that has seen a few meals!
"Here's a Formica counter that has seen a few meals!"
Michael Stern


Ed Saloomey, who has run the Dugout for 52 years now, commands this slicer, which shaves his excellent beef into fragile slices that fall below the blade like the petals of a soft pink rose.
"Ed Saloomey, who has run the Dugout for 52 years now, commands this slicer, which shaves his excellent beef into fragile slices that fall below the blade like the petals of a soft pink rose."
Michael Stern



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