Pizzeria Uno was created in 1943 and still has a nostalgic mid-century ambience. When Ike Sewell opened it at the edge of the Chicago Loop and introduced deep dish pizza to the world, Italian food was, to most Americans, exotic and adventurous. Non-Italians who knew anything of pizza considered it a little beat, a slightly eccentric sort of dish for coffee-house types and Bohemians. Those of us old enough to remember that era are reminded of those attitudes when we step down the couple of stairs into the semi-subterranean bar and dining room of Uno’s. It’s dark in here; the floor is vintage black-and-white tile. On the wall above the bar are hoary maxims celebrating The Good Life, as swingin’ epicures wanted it in days of yore: