Posted by Michael Stern on February 17, 2003
The name of Rhoda Adams’ café is no lie. The tamales are delicious, and well deserving of the fame they have earned up and down the Mississippi Delta. She makes them with a combination of beef and chicken; the meats combined with steamy cornmeal are wrapped in husks that when unfolded, emanate an irresistibly appetizing aroma and are a joy to eat as a snack or meal any time of day.
Beyond tamales, the menu at James and Rhoda Adams’ little eat-place by the side of the road is a full roster of great, soulful regional specialties. For fried chicken or pigs feet, pork barbecue or catfish dinner, you won’t do better for miles around. Early one morning Rhoda made us breakfast of bacon and eggs with biscuits on the side. Even this simple meal tasted especially wonderful. Rhoda is one of those gifted cooks who makes everything she touches something special.
We’ve always considered Arkansas one of America’s top-seven pie states (along with Iowa, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Virginia, Texas, and Maine). Rhoda’s pies are proof. She makes small individual ones that sell for a dollar and full-size pies that go for $7. We’ve never tasted the coconut or the lemon pie, but we can say that her sweet potato pie and pecan pie are world-class.
Overall: Worth driving from anyplace
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Reviewers "Must Eats" List
hot tamales
($2.00)
catfish
($5.00)
sweet potato pie
($1.00)
"Rhoda's bakery case is proof that Arkansas is one of America's top pie-producing states. That's a full-size sweet potato pie in the foreground. In the background are individual lemon meringue and coconut custard pies. Superb!"
Michael Stern
"As relaxed as your home kitchenette, Rhoda's chairs and tables are situated in such a way that you can sit and chat with her and her husband James while you dine."
Michael Stern
"It's a long-standing custom in these parts to make small pies suitable for splitting among two people, or for one person with a good appetite. These little lovelies are pecan and sweet potato."
Michael Stern
"We tip our hats to Russ Pennington, the traveler who tipped us off to this extraordinary cafe by the side of the road."
Michael Stern
"Rhoda Adams, pie (and tamale) maker extraordinaire. Note how her tamales are bundled by three: a nice snack or hors d'oeuvre."
Michael Stern
"We took a few of these homey cupcakes to eat as we traveled south along the river. When they were gone, we wished we had bought more..."
Michael Stern
"Even a basic ham-'n'-egg breakfast at Rhoda's sang with soulful flavor."
Michael Stern
