A picture of Sugar, the proprietors' late bulldog, adorns a menu on the outer wall of the tin trailer that is the restaurant's kitchen. The menu offers a roadside roster of burgers and green chile cheeseburgers, corn dogs, burritos, and of course, Fritos pie.
We have not tried those things because we are such fans of Sugar's barbecue. It’s brisket, slow-cooked until pot-roast tender, juicy, and infused with the flavor of smoke. Basically there are two ways to have it: in a sandwich, veiled in a tangy red sauce, or wrapped in a tortilla with green chilies and cheese. We prefer the latter because, in our opinion, that sweet-tangy sauce on the sandwich distracts from the lovely, subtle taste of the brisket. On the other hand, the barbecue burrito is an inspired creation: thick shreds of beef accented by the snap of peppers and even further enriched by melted cheese. We could eat these burritos all day long. But alas, where we live, they are nothing but a memory. Such a fine cheap-eats meal is an only-in-New-Mexico experience.
During the summer, Sugar’s also offers barbecued ribs and sausage. The winter smokehouse menu is strictly brisket.