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Mo's Midtown

25 Whitney St., Hartford, CT - (860) 236-7741
Posted By Michael Stern on 2/27/2011 12:01:00 PM
Mo's is proudest of its home fries, and they are cause for admiration. Cut into extra large hunks and seasoned with brio, they are kept warm in a huge heap on the griddle in the dining room open-kitchen. Whenever the grill man finishes an omelet or an order of eggs, he takes his spatula and heaps a pile of these hefty potatoes alongside.

Good as the hash browns are, it's pancakes that are our siren song. Mo's makes several kinds, including apple-walnut, blueberry, chocolate chip and strawberry-raspberry. The unfilled and unfancy buttermilk cakes are the ones we like best. Made of whole wheat flour and with a faint sweetness reminiscent of cinnamon, they are thick and tender and featherweight, fairly levitated off the grill in irregular shapes and piled willy nilly (by ones, twos, or threes) on a plate. Not handsome pancakes, but memorable ones, they are true breakfast comfort food.

Mo's reputation is as a breakfast place, but there's lunch, too: hamburgers and sandwiches (with hash browns available midday, too) and homemade soup. It's a cozy little spot, inconspicuously located in a cluster of stores near Farmington Avenue. Seating is in several booths along a wall, at a handful of tables up front, and at the counter with a view of the grill. Service is attentive and efficient, but not ultra-fast. Everything is cooked to order -- expertly.

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Buttermilk Pancakes
Home Fries
Potato Pancakes
Blueberry Pancakes
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Reviewers Photos [Upload Your Photos]

A pair of sunnyside-up eggs with a serving of home fries under a blanket of cheddar cheese.
"A pair of sunnyside-up eggs with a serving of home fries under a blanket of cheddar cheese."
Michael Stern





Hot off the griddle, this buttermilk 3-stack is still smoking. Their shape is irregular and their color muted, but these are magnificent pancakes.
"Hot off the griddle, this buttermilk 3-stack is still smoking. Their shape is irregular and their color muted, but these are magnificent pancakes."
Michael Stern


We love the view from Mo's counter: a mountain of hash browns on the grill, ready to be loaded onto plates alongside eggs and omelets.
"We love the view from Mo's counter: a mountain of hash browns on the grill, ready to be loaded onto plates alongside eggs and omelets."
Michael Stern


Not far from I-84 in a strip mall alongside a nail salon, Mo's is a small gem that is treasured by Connecticut breakfast hounds.
"Not far from I-84 in a strip mall alongside a nail salon, Mo's is a small gem that is treasured by Connecticut breakfast hounds."
Michael Stern


Served four to an order, Mo's potato pancakes are shatteringly crisp on the outside, but that crust encloses a creamy center with rich potato flavor. In the background, of course, are sour cream and apple sauce.
"Served four to an order, Mo's potato pancakes are shatteringly crisp on the outside, but that crust encloses a creamy center with rich potato flavor. In the background, of course, are sour cream and apple sauce."
Michael Stern


No one ever said Mo's pancakes were the the prettiest. As this closeup of a blueberry flapjack attests, they are asymmetrical and a little lumpy ... and delicious to eat!
"No one ever said Mo's pancakes were the the prettiest. As this closeup of a blueberry flapjack attests, they are asymmetrical and a little lumpy ... and delicious to eat!"
Michael Stern


This was the view from my counter seat at Mo's: a heap of semi-cooked bacon, ready to heat and serve. It's not my favorite way of bacon preparation, but I asked for an order well-done, meaning it spent extra time under the bacon press and got good and crisp. Still, flavor-wise, these strips aren't among the greats.
"This was the view from my counter seat at Mo's: a heap of semi-cooked bacon, ready to heat and serve. It's not my favorite way of bacon preparation, but I asked for an order well-done, meaning it spent extra time under the bacon press and got good and crisp. Still, flavor-wise, these strips aren't among the greats."
Michael Stern


Robots made of tin cans used to populate Mo's brick walls above the booths. On a recent visit, we noted they had been replaced by two-dimensional art.
"Robots made of tin cans used to populate Mo's brick walls above the booths. On a recent visit, we noted they had been replaced by two-dimensional art."
Michael Stern



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