Finding Fulks Run Grocery on Route 259 just south of the West Virginia border is half the fun. It is alluringly remote, in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley, surrounded by nothing but countryside. It’s a real grocery store, built in 1949 by Garnett Turner; and, frankly, there’s little that you can buy and eat on the premises. But we cannot resist tipping friends off to any ham house we find, especially Turner’s Ham House, which is located behind the grocery store and is considered by those in the know to be the finest small-scale producer of sugar-cured country ham anywhere.