Posted by Michael Stern on May 05, 2009
Al's is Nirvana for those of us who spend our lives in search of great diner breakfast. It is smaller than small, wedged perpendicular to 14th Avenue among the shops of Dinkytown, near the University of Minnesota. Customers waiting for one of the fourteen stools at the counter stand hovering just above and behind those who are seated and eating. In the narrow space between the counter and the back bar, where Al’s hash slingers race to and fro with seasoned aplomb, decor consists of pictures of Elvis and Wayne Newton, foreign currency, and a sign that advises, "TIPPING IS NOT A CITY IN CHINA." Also behind the counter is a pile of meal ticket books, each inscribed with someone's name. Many of Al's customers buy these books and keep them here, so they know they can come eat, using coupons instead of dollars, even when their wallet is empty.
The specialty of the house is blueberry pancakes, which are made with either a whole wheat or buttermilk batter, and are also available studded with walnuts or corn kernels. We chose blueberries and buttermilk -- an enchanting balance of sweet fruit poised in their faintly sour medium, infused with butter. They were just barely sticky, delicate-textured, and profoundly satisfying, especially when lightly drizzled with maple syrup. Al's flapjacks are sold as a short stack (2), regular (3), or long (4); and you can also have your waitress garnish them with sour cream and/or strawberries.
The short-order chef up front spends his time poaching eggs, constructing omelettes, and griddle-cooking corned beef hash and crisp hash browns. It is an old-fashioned pleasure to watch this guy work, handling about a dozen orders at a time, always snatching whatever he is frying, poaching, or grilling away from the heat at the peak of its perfection.
Overall: Worth driving from anyplace
20 out of 21 people found the review helpful. Was it helpful to you?
Reviewers "Must Eats" List
pancakes
($6.00)
omelet
($6.00)
"Instead of having small bits of the meat, this bacon waffle contains long strips."
buffetbuster
"Al's pancakes, like these blueberry buttermilk examples, are hearty, with a rugged texture. Quite filling. "
buffetbuster
"Al's is as small a restaurant as you can imagine. Note right behind the coats hanging against the back wall are customers lined up to get one of the precious seats."
buffetbuster
"Many regulars use coupon books in lieu of cash when they are short on funds. There are hundreds of them scattered over the lower three shelves."
buffetbuster
"This sign replaced the old one that used to say "Tipping is not a city in China." Note the foreign currency hanging beneath the lights."
buffetbuster
"Originally the Hunky Dory Lunch, formed from an alleyway between two buildings, Al's continues to build a huge reputation, but remains a 14-seat hash house."
Michael Stern
