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Dorset Inn

8 Church St., Dorset, VT - (802) 867-5500
Posted By Michael Stern on 6/5/2008 9:34:00 AM
The Dorset Inn is a picture-perfect hostelry in a picture-perfect Vermont town. Located on the village green, with a broad front porch just right for rocking and a cozy hearth just inside for cold-weather comfort, it is the state's oldest inn, welcoming guests since 1796. It is such a friendly place … and a glorious eating destination, three meals a day, seven days a week.

Although a sign outside the inn reads only "Lunch and Dinner," one night at dinner we overhead Noonie the waitress chatting with guests about how chef/owner Sissy Hicks planned to make corned beef hash the next morning. After sunup, we were there with appetites at the ready. During the meal, Noonie informed us that "Breakfast" is not on the sign simply because there wasn’t room for the sign-painter to list three meals.

Breakfast in the Dorset Inn’s garden room is our vision of morning in heaven. Irregular-shaped buttermilk pancakes come studded with brilliant blueberries; crunchy raised waffles have the old-style, small-tread surface that holds countless droplets of swirled melting butter and maple syrup; and the corned beef hash is a patty with an outside crunch that surrounds a glistening center of ragged, brick-red beef shreds, nuggets of carrot, and caramel-brown ribbons of onion.

Dinner is pretty darn wonderful, too. Steaks, chops, seafood are all the work of a master chef; old-fashioned turkey croquettes are spectacular, sided by cranberry relish and stout mashed potatoes. But the dish that made us swoon the most was calf’s liver. It is tender as foie gras, saturated with the sweetness of onions and the savor of bacon and sided by creamy succotash. “People come just for her liver,” explained Noonie; and chef Hicks later told us about the pilgrims who have heard about her cooking and demand to sample the one meal she considers her best work. She makes them calf’s liver. “Not everyone is a fan of it,” she chuckled. “But I’d have to say it’s my signature dish.”

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Scorecard

5 - Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace
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An illusion: what appears to be a roadside diner dish is actually real from-scratch food prepared with thought and care.
"An illusion: what appears to be a roadside diner dish is actually real from-scratch food prepared with thought and care."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle





The coarse, pistachio-studded pate is not always on the menu, but if you are a pate or meatloaf lover, grab it when you see it.
"The coarse, pistachio-studded pate is not always on the menu, but if you are a pate or meatloaf lover, grab it when you see it."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle


Yam fritters served with maple syrup, the world's greatest donut holes, are an unusual and highly recommended appetizer, perhaps best shared.
"Yam fritters served with maple syrup, the world's greatest donut holes, are an unusual and highly recommended appetizer, perhaps best shared."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle


The salted and duck-fat preserved meat known as duck confit is slow roasted at Dorset, resulting in crisp skin and intense flesh. The plum sauce only adds to the fun.
"The salted and duck-fat preserved meat known as duck confit is slow roasted at Dorset, resulting in crisp skin and intense flesh. The plum sauce only adds to the fun."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle


The menu lists these as Marion Cunningham's 'raised waffles,' based on a menu in her wonderful Breakfast Book. They truly are amazing: lighter than light yet full flavored, so delicious that even butter and syrup (almost) seem superfluous.
"The menu lists these as Marion Cunningham's 'raised waffles,' based on a menu in her wonderful Breakfast Book. They truly are amazing: lighter than light yet full flavored, so delicious that even butter and syrup (almost) seem superfluous."
Michael Stern


A very nice way to start supper: a variety plate of smoked fish.
"A very nice way to start supper: a variety plate of smoked fish."
Michael Stern


Not everyone is a fan of calf's liver. But if you are, this plate will rock your world.
"Not everyone is a fan of calf's liver. But if you are, this plate will rock your world."
Michael Stern


Crisp-edged, chunky, and full-flavored, corned beef hash seems especially right in this Green Mountain State hostelry.
"Crisp-edged, chunky, and full-flavored, corned beef hash seems especially right in this Green Mountain State hostelry."
Michael Stern


Roasted garlic is almost, but not quite, stone soup. The garlic is fine but the local cheeses and bread are the real stars.
"Roasted garlic is almost, but not quite, stone soup. The garlic is fine but the local cheeses and bread are the real stars."
Bruce Bilmes and Susan Boyle


While Dorset Inn orange juice is terrific -- always freshly squeezed -- I like this morning wake-up call even better: ginger-apple-carrot juice. It is sweet, spicy, tangy, and utterly salubrious.
"While Dorset Inn orange juice is terrific -- always freshly squeezed -- I like this morning wake-up call even better: ginger-apple-carrot juice. It is sweet, spicy, tangy, and utterly salubrious."
Michael Stern


A super-duper version of eggs Benedict in which a chunky cake of fried potatoes, laced with bacon, takes the place of an ordinary English muffin and Canadian bacon. That Hollandaise sauce, by the way, is sensational.
"A super-duper version of eggs Benedict in which a chunky cake of fried potatoes, laced with bacon, takes the place of an ordinary English muffin and Canadian bacon. That Hollandaise sauce, by the way, is sensational."
Michael Stern


Croquettes are an old-fashioned dish that has become retro-chic in some stylish urban eateries. At the Dorset Inn, they never went out of fashion.
"Croquettes are an old-fashioned dish that has become retro-chic in some stylish urban eateries. At the Dorset Inn, they never went out of fashion."
Michael Stern


Fergie, the house mascot, snuck into the dining room just as our pancakes arrived. She is way too cute, and too old, to scold. Bad dog!
"Fergie, the house mascot, snuck into the dining room just as our pancakes arrived. She is way too cute, and too old, to scold. Bad dog!"
Michael Stern


Since Fergie and the other old dog have gone to that great boneyard in the sky, Dorset Inn now has three new mascots, including basset hound pup Mailee, to greet guests.
"Since Fergie and the other old dog have gone to that great boneyard in the sky, Dorset Inn now has three new mascots, including basset hound pup Mailee, to greet guests."
Cliff Strutz


The Dorset Inn is a classic. Note the comfortable seating on the front porch: an ideal place to be mellow.
"The Dorset Inn is a classic. Note the comfortable seating on the front porch: an ideal place to be mellow."
Michael Stern



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