The Place is as plain as its name: an open-air clambake by the side of Route One. Tree stumps are chairs and cable spools are tables. They are all arranged in a sunny clearing around a smoky wood fire where seafood is cooked to order by the shirt-sleeved staff. Tents are erected for when it rains.
The menu includes bluefish, which we are told by experts is delicious. But for us, The Place is a place to eat clams, lobsters, and corn. The one need-to-eat dish is littleneck clams roasted over wood, split open, daubed with hot sauce and put back on the fire just long enough for the sauce and clam juice come together in perfect, picnic harmony. There are steamer clams, too; and don't forget corn-on-the-cob. It is cooked in its husk and swabbed with melted butter. All other accoutrements -- including bread and salad, wine and beer (and glasses for wine and beer, if you want them), you must bring yourself.
The Place is open only in the summer, starting the last weekend in April; and on a nice weekend day it can be maddeningly crowded. But come late at night on a weekday, and it is a happy retreat from the bustle of shoreline shops and traffic.