Posted by Michael Stern on February 26, 2004
In the summer of 1997 when we went to Café Edison for lunch, we saw Neil Simon having matzoh ball soup with William Burroughs. And was that magician David Copperfield in the back, making his cheese blintzes disappear off the plate in record time? Everybody who eats at the Café Edison in the Edison Hotel just off Broadway looks like somebody famous, even if they’re not.
Just because celebrities eat here, do not by any means get the impression that this is a ritzy spot. It used to be, about seventy years ago, when it was the hotel’s grand ballroom; but now it is a modest coffee shop (still boasting spectacular bas relief folderol and ornate chandeliers), where the weary waitstaff gives everyone an equal-opportunity hard time. Salmon-colored walls are taped with hand-written signs advertising specials and soups of the day (goulash, split pea, Russian borscht, matzoh ball, chicken noodle, gazpacho); and there is a brisk take-out business of customers taking hot meals back to their offices.
Known to regulars as "The Polish Tea Room," this is a delicious taste of old New York that seems utterly unaffected by the Disneyfication of Times Square. So if you find yourself midtown craving Jewish food served without pomp or pretense, find a booth or a counter seat and savor braised brisket or kasha varnishkes, pickled herring or homemade gefilte fish, or blintzes that some experts consider the city's best. Prices are moderate, the food is good, and the experience is unforgettable.
Overall: Worth driving from anyplace
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Reviewers "Must Eats" List
Russian Borscht
($5.00)
Matzoh Brie
($7.00)
Blintzes
($7.00)
Corned Beef Hash
($7.00)
"It was a tough decision: borscht or matzoh ball soup? The matzoh ball soup looked ravishing as people around me ate theirs. The matzoh ball nearly filled the bowl. But I was not the least bit disappointed in this borscht, loaded with cabbage, potatoes, and tender chunks of beef. Hearty and spiced just right, it is as good as hot borscht can be."
Michael Stern
"At once fluffy and substantial, this plate-size pancake of matzoh brie is served with a bowl of apple sauce on the side."
Michael Stern
"Here is a close view that shows a cross-section of the matzoh brie. If you look closely, you can see nuggets of softened matzoh among the buttery eggs."
Michael Stern
"The ceiling of Cafe Edison speaks of a time when this was the ballroom of an elegant hotel."
Michael Stern
"There is a street entrance to Cafe Edison, but you can also get to it through this door from the lobby of the hotel."
Michael Stern
"Cafe Edison is ideally located for visitors to Times Square and the Theater District."
Michael Stern
"When he wasn't busy, my waiter gave his dogs a break and took a seat at the counter where he chatted with his comrades."
Michael Stern
"Cheese blintzes come three to an order. They are not a delicate food, but they sure are satisfying."
Michael Stern
"This is what you want to dollop onto each forkful of blintz: plenty of sour cream."
Michael Stern
"A close view of Cafe Edison's corned beef hash shows how finely-chopped it is. It has a good zesty flavor, and is perfectly complemented by the poached egg on top."
Michael Stern
