Hallo Berlin

626 10th Ave., New York, NY -

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Posted By Michael Stern on 4/4/2004 11:47:00 AM

By the loosest use of the term, Hallo Berliin is a hot dog cart. And yet, no common hot dogs are sold from the rolling pushcart parked here at 54th Street and 5th Avenue. There are wieners, wursts, kielbasas, and meatballs, and it is possible to get them in a bun. But even Hallo Berlin's roll bears scant resemblance to the ordinary breadstuff in which street franks are customarily served. It is a good, crusty dinner roll with enough muscle to stay intact even when loaded with sausage, red cabbage, sautéed onion, and spicy mustard.

As for the tube steaks, they are a magnificent, firm-fleshed bunch. Choose from among knockwurst (beef or pork), alpenwurst (turkey and veal), weisswurst (veal), bauernwurst beef and pork), bratwurst (pork), and currywurst (beef). In addition, there are beef and pork Bavarian meatballs. All are bunable, but an even more interesting choice here is a German "soul food combo mix," which is a heavy paper plate heaped with two or three wursts of your choice, cut into fork-size discs, along fried potatoes, two kinds of cabbage, onions, and a roll.

We spent all of five dollars one day on what proprietor Rolph Babiel labeled the "Freakin Deal": meatballs with a knockwurst, German (no mayo) potato salad, red and wine cabbage, and a crusty roll. The pair of meatballs were topped with hot horseradish and hot mustard. What a wonderful meal!

Soups are also regularly available: beef goulash Tuesday and Thursday or chicken breast goulash Wednesday and Friday. The soups are loaded not only with meat but with little spaetzle (dumplings).

All of this is served at a cart where Herr Babiel manages to establish an ebullient, fröhlich force-field among customers waiting in line (you WILL wait at lunchtime!) and among those standing and eating at his little microtable by the side of the cart. "Here, this is what you should have ordered!" he tells us as we polish off lunch and he finishes preparing a German Double Soul Food Special (a bratwurst and a currywurst) for a customer. "We call it the Dictator Special," he laughs. "Because you have no choice."

Please note: Hallo Berlin is usually parked at 54th and 5th Tuesday through Friday, from about 11am to 3pm. Rolph and his wife Bernadette also operated the Hallo Berlin Food, Wine, and Beer Hall at 626 10th Ave. (212-977-1944) and the Hallo Berlin-North Tavern at Exit One off I-81 in Conklin, NY. (607-775-4391

Scorecard

Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace

Bratwurst Sandwich	Freakin Deal

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"Here are just some of the sausages ready to be served at Hallo Berlin"
Michael Stern

"The best brat this side of Sheboygan, Wisconsin."
Michael Stern

"One of the best deals in NYC."
Bill Homan

"The "Freakin Deal" is a five-dollar daily special that includes two meatballs, a cut-up knockwurst, potato salad, and sweet sauteed onions, plus excellent hot horseradish and spicy mustard to dress the balls."
Michael Stern

"Running this cart successfully since 1980."
Bill Homan

"So many options."
Bill Homan

"To choose or not to choose, that is the question..."
Bill Homan

"The "Worst" truly is the best."
Bill Homan

"A typical midday wait here is about 20-30 minutes, but totally worth it."
Bill Homan