Margon

136 W. 46th St., New York, NY - (212) 354-5013

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Posted By Michael Stern on 4/22/2004 8:30:00 PM

Margon is a hole in the wall around the corner from Times Square. Prices are criminally low and the Cuban food is classic. Plush, it is not. A ramp leads downward to a long, narrow space with four stools jammed up against an impossibly uncomfortable counter near the front; tables are lined up on the right of an aisle that leads to the back.

On the left of the aisle is a buffet counter where arriving customers stand and place orders. A lot of business is take-out -- people bringing lunch back to the office -- but if you plan to dine here, this is how it works: Walk to the back with your eyes looking left. This allows full view of what's to eat, including pork chops smothered in gravy, glistening roast chicken, rice & beans, sweet plantains, and octopus salad.

I went for lunch on Thursday with Gourmet editor James Rodewald who, like I, decided to forgo the day's special of tripe & pig feet in favor of a Cuban sandwich. The sandwich orders were conveyed via intercom to the front, where the sandwich presses are; and in the meanwhile, our extremely friendly waitress, who wanted -- but didn't want -- to be photographed, gave us octopus to carry to a table. The tender leaves of meat sparkled in their marinade, but after only a few forkfuls, the sandwiches arrived and commanded all our attention.

These are beautiful Cuban sandwiches, the crisp-toasted length of bread enveloping roast pork, salami, ham, melted cheese, a surfeit of pickle slices, mustard, and mayo. Somehow, James managed to keep his sandwich intact as he ate it. Ingredients slithered out of mine start to finish. It was a delicious mess!

On the way out, James insisted I stop for a shot of espresso. Since he was the one who led me to this excellent restaurant, I couldn't say no. He grinned wide as I slugged it down. A serious coffee aficionado, he delighted in introducing a newcomer to one of the most delicious cups in town.

I am eager to return to Margon for a hot meal -- perhaps chicken fricasee on a Monday, chicharron de pollo Tuesday, red snapper Wednesday, or ox tail Friday. I'd even like to try breakfast. Anything would taste great with Margon coffee.

Scorecard

Overall: Legendary - Worth driving from anyplace

Espresso	Roast Pork Sandwich
Cuban Sandwich	Mamey Shake
Octopus Salad	Plaintains
Pork Chop

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"Cool, bright, and refreshing, Margon's octopus salad is on the menu every day. It's $5.95 all by itself -- a side dish big enough for two or three people -- or $8.95 as an entree with yellow rice and beans or salad and fried bananas."
Michael Stern

"The man at the left is placing an order. The dining strip is to the right. Not shown, behind the camera on the left: four stools suitable only for people without legs."
Michael Stern

"A side view of Margon's Cuban sandwich shows the multiple layers of meat, cheese, pickles, and condiments squeezed into the crisp tube of bread."
Michael Stern

"Margon makes tropical fruit shakes to order. This pink, supersweet one is mamey. Also on the menu are guanabana, mango, banana, papaya, trigo, and tamarindo. (What the heck is trigo?)"
Michael Stern

"Margon actually looks larger from the outside. Inside, it is sardine-can tight."
Michael Stern

"Here is a pork chop so tender that it was easily severed into bite-size pieces with gentle pressure from the edge of a flimsy plastic fork."
Michael Stern

"Classic Cuban side dishes, missing only some inky black beans, too: plantains and yellow rice."
Michael Stern

"Can you see the flavor fairly radiating from the sliced pork in this sandwich? It is utterly delicious, although maybe next time, we'd add a little cheese, too..."
Michael Stern